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THE 

MOST REMARKABLE YEAR 

IN 

THE LIFE 

OF 

AUGUSTUS VON KOTZEBUE ; 

CONTAINING AN ACCOUNT OF 

HIS EXILE INTO SIBERIA, 

AND OF 

The other extraordinary Events xvhich happened to him 
IN RUSSIA. 

WRITTEN BY HIMSELF. 



TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN, SY 

THE REV. BENJAMIN BERESFORD. 

English Lecturer to the Queen of Prussia. 



o - 



JN THREE VOLUMES. 
VOL. I. 

EcnDon: 

PRINTED FOR RICHARD PHILLIPS 

No. 71, St. Paul's Church-yardi 
By T, Gillet, Salisbury -square* 

1802. 



<y 



-r-,-^1 



l~ 



,XA 



DEDICATION. 

H^O my noble and generous protec- 
tors, his Excellency M. de Ku- 
scheleff, Coiinsdlof of State, and Go- 
vernor of Tobolsk ; his Excellency RL 
de Richter, Counsellor of State, and 
Governor of Livonia ; to my noble 
and generous friends in the hour of 
need, M. de Lo wen stern, formerly 
Mademoiselle de Bayer, at Wcfmers- 
hofF; M. Eckardt, Secretary to the 
Regency of Riga ; M. Provost Kock, 
and his respectable Lady, at Jesse - r M. 
de Rnorring, Provincial of the Cham- 
ber, and his worthy Lady, at Chariot- 
tenthal j M. Secretary Huek, at Re- 



IV 

^vel ; and M. Charles George Grau- 
mann, at Petersburg. 

TMor brass nor marble bears your honour'd names^ 
My glowing heart the fair inscription claims, 
Deep-grav'd it lies, to grateful mem'ry true, 
For ever legible, for < ever new ! 
Your gen'rous succour pierc'd Siberia's gloom* 
And snatch'd the exile. from the darksome tomb:; 
Eestor'd the charm that sooths and sweetens life^ 
The smiling offspring, and the gladden'd wife. 
A theme like this demands no lofty lay >; 
Let simple truth the noble deed display ! 
And tho' whatever I write may ill withstand 
The ruthless stroke of Time's destructive hand— 
The grateful Muse- shall from oblivion steal 
The votive line that speaks how much I feel'! 



PREFACE. 

TN presenting to the Public the his- 
tory of the last twelve months of 
my life, I have not been prompted by 
vanity. My adventures have been of 
so extraordinary and wonderful a na- 
ture, that they would interest the reader 
even as a romance ; how much more then 
must they interest him as a true story ? 

But reasons of a more important 
nature than the amusement of the rea- 
der have determined me to publish the 
history of that year. All Germany, 
and, I may venture to add, a consider- 
able part of Europe, have expressed some 
interest in my fate, arising either from 
motives of curiosity, or from a prin- 



Vi 



ciple of benevolence. It lias been every 
where asked, what could have been the 
cause of my banishment? The effect 
was too striking not to induce an en- 
quiry into the cause* A thousand tales 
have been invented and propagated. A 
book entitled, according to the reports 
of some, The White Bear, according to 
others, The Bear of the North, has been 
ascribed to my pen. There are people 
too who pretend to have read it. Some 
maintain that this book was w r ritten by 
another person, whose name began with 
the same letter as mine, and that I was 
the victim of this mistake. Others there 
are,, who lay indiscreet conversations to 
my charge j while others again attri- 
bute my banishment to certain satirical 
passages, which they have discovered in 



Vll 

some of my pieces composed ten years 
ago. Among a variety of conjectures, 
no one, however, imagined the real 
<;ause, which originated solely in a -mo- 
mentary impulse of suspicion. I conceive 
then, that, in justice to my reputation, 
my children, and my friends, I ought 
to relate frankly, and with the strictest 
regard to truth, every circumstance re- 
lative to the affair; and thus rectify the 
various conjectures of which I have 
been the subject. 

There is still another important obli- 
gation which renders this task neces- 
sary. To the Monarch, whose conduct 
respecting me has been so generally and 
so severely censured, I owe, not indeed 
a justification of that conduct, but a 
publication of the exalted generosity 



Vlll 

with which he acknowledged and re- 
paired the wrongs he had done me. I 
do not consider as reparation the rich 
presents I have received from him, and 
which have been so much exaggerated 
in the newspapers ; for presents cost 
monarchs little, and titles cost them 
nothing. What I deem reparation, is 
the manner in which he conferred those 
favours, and in which he sought mc 
out, treated, and conversed with me. 
Such conduct would have rendered even 
a private individual dear and amiable in 
my estimation j how much more so 
then the Sovereign of a mighty env 
pire ? One virtue he possessed, which 
is seldom found in common life, and 
still more rarely on a throne : he was, 
ever ready to acknowledge, veluntarily^ 



IX 

the wrongs he had committed, and he 
repaired them not as an Emperor but 
as a man. 

Another duty, as sacred as that 
which commands me to honour the 
memory of an Emperor, who is now 
no more, still further prompts me to 
take up the pen, namely, gratitude to 
the reigning Monarch, whose clemency 
and humanity are above all praise. He 
it is who has restored me to an infirm 
and aged mother, and to the Muses, 
He it is who, adding to the beneficence 
of his father, has made me for ever his 
faithful subject, even beyond the limits 
of his empire. May his reign be happy ! 
May every day of his life resemble that 
of his accession to the throne, to which 
I was witness! and may he long live 



the joy and admiration of a people who 
adore him ! 

Such were the motives which induced 
me to compose the following sheets, 
and to offer them to the perusal of the 
Public. 

September, 180L 



THE 

MOST REMARKABLE YEAR 
OF MY LIFE. 

&c. Eft; 

THREE years had nearly elapsed 
since my wife and myself quitted 
Russia. The flattering reception we 
met with there strengthened the endear- 
ing ties which held us to the North :, 
there we had children, relations, and 
friends ; it was also the native country 
of my wife. I had promised her, that 
in the course of three years I would 
conduct her there again ; and I was 
proud to keep my word. The journey, 
it is true, tore me away from a mother 
justly beloved, from a circle of worthy 
friends and a little possession at Wei- 
mar : but the separation was only to be 
for four months ; it was merely a visit 
necessary to the health and happiness of 



T2 

my wife, who passionately desired to sec 
her native home once more. 

The free ingress into the Russian ter- 
ritories being interrupted, it was indis- 
pensably necessary to provide myself 
with a passport from the Emperor. Of 
this I was aware, and applied to Baron 
de Krudener, privy counsellor to his Im- 
perial Majesty, and his minister at the 
Court of Berlin. The Baron, in answer 
to my letter, informed me that he 
would instantly lay my request before 
his Court, but that I should do well to 
make direct application at the same time 
myself. In consequence of this, I wrote 
to the Emperor, explained the object of 
my journey, stated that my property in 
Russia required my presence there, and 
entreated his Majesty to grant me per- 
mission to reside four months in his 
dominions. My letter had scarcely been 
sent when I received another from Ba- 



*3 

Ton de Krudener, which, for several rea- 
sons, I think it necessary to insert here* 

" It gives me great satisfaction, Sir, to 
" inform you of his Majesty's favourable 
cc answer relative to your passport. I 
u am directed to make out the same, 
ic and to insert therein the exact route 
" you intend to take, in order to remove 
u all obstacles to which, without such 
" precaution, you might be liable. You 
" will therefore, Sir, have the goodness 
" to inform me immediately of the 
'• above particulars, and the number of 
" persons who are to accompany you, 
" and likewise to let me know whither 
" I am to send the passport, in case you 
" do not take Serlin in your way. I 
*< am, &c. &c." 

This letter afforded great pleasure td 
my wife, while on the contrary it cre- 
ated suspicion in me. I had left Russia 
with the. Emperor's consent, and before 



*4 

the publication of the order which re- 
quired all persons leaving the country 
to engage never to return : but I knew 
that Paul was no friend to authors, 
and -it was difficult to reconcile this 
well-known antipathy with an answer 
so prompt, and apparently so full of 
kindness. I could not conceive what 
obstacles I had to encounter when pro- 
vided with a regular passport ; and if 
such obstacles were common to all tra- 
vellers, it was singular that an excep- 
tion should be made in my behalf. What 
right had I to such distinction ? Nor 
could I at all conceive what interest the 
Emperor could feel in being so well in- 
formed of my route, 

I imparted all my doubts to my wife, 
but she only laughed at them. Having 
accepted an invitation from a lady 
distinguished both by her rank and 
virtues, at whose house much company 



*5 

usually resorted, we spoke of the con- 
tents of this letter agreeably to the 
different manner in which they had 
affected us, and every one present not 
only discountenanced my apprehen- 
sions, but pronounced them to be un- 
reasonable and ill founded. To believe 
the Emperor capable of laying a snare 
for me was considered by them as 
an offence against the sacred faith of 



sovereigns. 



I became more easy ; and if ;.ny 
thing still continued to create anxiety, 
it was the circumstance of the term of 
four months being omitted in the body 
of the passport which I afterwards re- 
ceived. This omission was distressing, 
as it might tend to prevent my return, 
and I therefore had recourse to the fol- 
lowing expedient. I had the honour to 
be dramatic writer to the Emperor of 
Germany, and in that quality I procured 



i6 

a written leave of absence from the 
court of Vienna for the above-mentioned 
space of time, and I reserved this in- 
strument to shew to the Austrian mi- 
nister at St. Petersburg, in case my 
return should be at all impeded. 

Having thus provided for my de- 
parture, my wife and myself, accom- 
panied by three young children, left 
Weimar on the 10th of April 1800. We 
arrived at Berlin, where I found several 
letters which my friends in Livonia aad 
Petersburg had written to me at the 
same time. They appeared to have 
acted in concert in advising me to con- 
sider how far I was able to encounter 
the severe cold of a northern climate. 
This concealed manner of warning me 
had not the effect they had reason to 
expect ; I did not follow their advice, 
but considered their apprehensions as 
exaggerated or chimerical. 



*7 

I waited on Baron de Krudener. I was 
already known to that estimable man, 
who is a friend to letters and humanity. 
He received me with his accustomed 
kindness; and I requested him, on taking 
mv leave, to consider me as the father of 
a numerous family, and tell me in the 
sincerity of his heart, if he thought my 
return would be attended with any diffi- 
culties. My suspicions were confined 
entirely to that particular, and I must 
confess that M. de Krudener replied like 
a man who knew how to unite the rigo- 
rous obligations of duty with those of 
humanity. " In your place," said he, " I 
would write once more; vou may how- 
ever proceed on your journey, but wait 
at Konigsberg till your doubts are en- 
tirely removed. " 

The advice was good; and I was inclin- 
ed to follow it, but my wife, whom I 
-consulted on the occasion, and who had 

VOL. I. b 



i8 

solely her children and her country be- 
fore her eyes, did not value it as it de- 
served. We both indeed treated the 
matter too lightly, and being furnished 
with a passport in the name and by the 
order of the Emperor of all the Russias, 
we ventured to proceed. 

Every one who has travelled through 
the Prussian dominions knows that the 
post-horses there are very sluggish.* I 
frequently got out of my carriage and 
walked, and without any exertion was 
often a German mile before it. In this 
manner I one day arrived at a little town 
in Pomerania, which I think is called 
Zanert j I walked through it, and when 
I came to its extremity found several 
roads without knowing which to take. 

* Some new regulations have taken place to the 
advantage of the traveller. Of this I am unable to 
speak from my own experience, having now lett 
off travelling post in Prussia and Pomerania. 



1<> 

An old man who was near set me 
fight ; he was a tall thin figure, and pro- 
bably belonged to the gate* He asked 
me whither I was going ; and when I 
told him I w r as on my way to Russia, his 
voice altered. (He advised me not to 
think of going thither, made use of the 
strongest reasons in support of his ad* 
vice, and betrayed a solicitude so ten* 
der and paternal, that he seemed like 
an angel sent to counsel me* At last, 
finding that his advice was unavailing, 
he concluded with this short exclama- « 
tion : "*God help the man who goes into 
Russia!" I laughed exceedingly and con- 
tinued my way ; but how often have 
these emphatic words since struck me! 
how often have I been tempted to think 
that this man was a prophet who had 
foretold my destiny. 

These repeated admonitions had, in 
spite of my reason, made some impression 



20 

en me, and I felt it still increase as I ap- 
proached the confines of Russia. ( Such 
was the effect they had on me, that fre- 
quently on the road, and particularly at 
Memel, I seriously proposed to my wife 
that she should continue the journey by 
-herself and I would return to that city 
and wait for her ; but my fate was de- 
creeds — she could not resolve upon this 
measure. 

When we left Memel I took the pre- 
caution to leave my books there in order 
to avoid disputes with M. JTummanski 
of Riga, a man too well known for the 
ridiculous severity of his inquisitions. 

The following pages were written in 
Siberia after my arrival at the place of my 
destination, at a time when the remem- 
brance of my sufferings was still fresh and 
keen. I shall be obliged to rectify se- 
veral passages, having since my return 
■teen furnished with further information 



21 



relative to many objects and to several 
personages, not always to their advan- 
tage. I reserve however the rectification 
for the sequel of this narrative. Not a 
word of what I wrote on the spot shall 
be suppressed ; the reader will thus see,, 
without disguise, what then were my 
sensations, my thoughts and my hopes,. 



•«-x-®< 



WE came in sight of the frontiers;; 
we passed the line, and were now on the. 
territory of Russia. We could however 
have returned. No soldier stopped us y. 
no river, no bridge, not the slightest bar- 
rier separated us from the Prussian do- 
minions. Silent and with a heavy heart, 
I cast my eyes to the left: all the admo- 
nitions I had received now assailed me; 
I could scarcely breathe. 

My wife too had her alarms, which 
she has since owned. She looked at 
me without, saying a word. Still we 



22 

had time to retreat, but the wheel of 
fortune was turned, and we were about 
to undergo our destiny. 

" Halt !" cried a Cossack, armed with 
a long pike. We were at the foot of a 
bridge that led over a small brook, the 
guard-house lay on our left ; the officer 
made his appearance. " Your passport, 
Sir!" — "Here it is." — The officer opened 
it and examined the signature. " What 
name is this?-— Krudener. — You are 
come from Berlin? — Yes. — Very well, 
pray go on, Sir." He made a sign, the 
barrier opened, the carriage rolled with a 
heavy sound over the bridge, the bar- 
rier shut behind us, and I heaved a deep 
sigh. " Here we are," said I to my wife, 
affecting to be gay. Heaven knows, 
however, that all my uneasiness was 
confined to the single point of my re- 
turn ; far was I from thinking that my 
personal safety w r as at all in danger. 

We arrived in a few minutes at Polan- 



*3 

gen, a small town where the custom*- 
house is established. At the head of 
this department was M. Sellin, a polite 
and humane man, formerly lieutenant- 
colonel of a regiment quartered at Nar- 
va. He had resided at no great dis- 
tance from my wife's patrimonial estate* 
When I last left Russia we had embraced 
on this same spot, and my wife and 
I were happy to find we were on the 
point of meeting him here again. 

I alighted from my carriage, and Sellin 
appeared on the flight of steps before 
his door. I approached and embraced 
him, but he returned my falute with an 
air of gravity. I asked him if he did not 
recollect me; he made no reply, and 
strove afterwards to appear cordiaL 

My wife now alighted, and the evi- 
dent embarrassment of Sellin made her 
shudder. He received her however with 
politeness, and handed herinto thehoufe. 



*4 

Weyrauch the comedian, who had ac- 
companied us from Memel, was likewife 
admitted without difficulty. 

My wife assumed the easy gaiety of 
behaviour which takes place between 
old acquaintances ; Sellin answered in art 
awkward manner, and at length, turn- 
ing towards me, said, " Where is your 
passport? — In the hands of the Cossack 
officer." He was silent, and the concern 
he felt was visible in his countenance 
The passport soon appeared ; Sellin pe- 
rused it, and then asked if I was the Pre- 
sident de Kotzebue. The question on 
his part was singular. " Doubtless," I re- 
plied, I am that person. " In that case," 
continued he, (but he instantly stopped 
short, and I observed that his countenance 
was pale and his lips quivering,) then 
addressing himself to my wife ; " be not 
alarmed, Madam," said he; ^ but I have 
orders to arrest your husband.-' The 



*5 



unhappy woman gave a loud shriek, her 
knees tottered, she flew to me, threw 
herself about my neck and began to 
load herself with the most bitter re- 
proaches^ My children could not un* 
derstand what was going forward, and 
I myself was petrified, but the sight of 
my wife who was falling into a swoon 
restored my presence of mind ; I took 
her into my arms and placed her in a 
chair; I then ftrove all in my power to 
console her and she recovered; then 
attending to what related to myself, I 
turned instanly towards Sellin: " Tell 
me," said I, " what your orders imply* 
and above all, keep nothing from me," 
"I am commanded to seize your papers 
and to send them, together with your- 
self, to the Governor of Mittau. — What 
will happen to me there? — Your papers 
will be examined, and the Governor will 
receive further instructions upon the 



26 

business. — Nothing more? — Nothing — 
And my family may accompany rne? — 
Certainly-" " Well, then," said I to my 
dear and excellent wife, " we may make 
ourselves perfectly easy. We are going to 
Mittau, such was our original intention. 
We shall have to stay there a day per- 
haps, and that will be all. My papers 
are in order and can be liable to no sus- 
picion; this arrest is nothing more than 
mere precaution, a measure of prudence 
which may be overlooked in a monarch 
during the revolutions which at this 
time convulse the world. The Emperor 
does not know me, he knows only 
that I am an author ; many writers 
have been led astray by the system of 
liberty which now agitates Europe ; 
his Majesty suspects me to be one of 
that number, and in truth I would rather 
he should frankly declare his suspicions 
than keep them to himself. He will now 



2 7 

learn what sort of a person I am, and his 
knowledge of me will turn to my advan- 
tage; I shall perhaps gain his confidence.'* 

In this manner I expressed myself as 
I pressed my still trembling wife to my 
heart. Heaven knows that I spoke what 
I felt ; for, convinced as I was of my 
guiltlessness, what had I to dread ? — 
My wife soon came to herself. She 
had imagined we were instantly to be 
separated, that I should be ill-treated, 
thrown into a common cart ; but when 
she saw that no violence was used, 
and that we were to continue our jour- 
ney together, she ceased to be so much 
alarmed. 

My baggage had been searched, my 
port-folio and other papers seized ; 
thing now remained unexamined but 
my person. I was obliged to turn my 
pockets inside out, and to lay upon the 
table every scrap of paper, and every 



2:8 

bill of travelling-expences I had about 
me. I was provoked at this, and could 
not disguise my feelings. It is my duty, 
said Sellin, in a low and halfchoaked 
voice y I was not angry with him, for it 
was evident that he was acting an in- 
voluntary and painful part. 

He now requested us to take out of 
our trunks whatever things we might 
want on the road from Polan^en to 
Mittau, for his orders obliged him to 
seal up our baggage. I had a small box, 
containing such things as- were of daily 
use, as tobacco, razors, medicines, &c. 
Having begged that this box might go 
unsealed, he had the goodness to indulge 
me in my wish, but was desirous to 
examine it more closely. As the bot- 
tom was thick, he asked me if the box 
contained a vacant space for the purpose 
of concealing papers. " No," I replied. 
I had bought it at Vienna, and had 



2 9 

never examined its construction; but 
here it seems people understand better 
the art of discovering secrets* Sellin 
touched a spring which discovered a 
second bottom, and that bottom was 
found empty* " You see," said I with a 
smile, " the little use which I had for a 
false bottom ; I possessed the box without 
beino; aware of this contrivance." He was 
himself so well convinced of this, that 
he told the officer, in the Russian lan- 
guage, that he was satisfied of my igno- 
rance of it. 

\The inquisition was now over, but 
we had to wait for a long attestation, 
which was drawing up at the chan- 
cery. Our children had nothing to eat ; 
for so eagerly had we driven on to our 
ruin, that, although a dinner was ready 
at the last post-house, we had refused to 
partake of it. I asked for some refresh- 
ment for them; as for ourselves, it 



3° 
will be easily supposed we did not stand 
in need of any* Sellin immediately or- 
dered such provisions as were at hand 
to be set before them. 

But notwithstanding the politeness of 
Sellin on the occasions already mention- 
ed, he refused to grant me a request 
which I conceived to be a very reasonable 
one. I had left my aged mother in a bad 
state of health, and had reason to fear 
that, on her hearing what had happened 
to me, her apprehensions would prove 
fatal. I begged leave to write a few 
lines to her, which Sellin himself might 
have read and sealed up. He was, how- 
ever, deaf to all my entreaties ; but I am 
Sure that this refusal, which occasioned 
me so much affliction, was equally pain- 
ful to this humane man, who made it 
in spite of his own feelings. 

He afforded me indeed some conso- 
lation 'by assuring me that I might 



3 l 

write from Mittau. I then turned to 
Weyrauch, who had been present dur- 
ing the whole scene, and grasping his 
hand, entreated him not to mention a 
word at Memel of what had happened, 
lest some newspaper-writer should make 
it public. This he promised me in the 
most solemn manner. 

But what shews clearly that the wor- 
thy Seilin was not master of himself 
in the execution of this painful duty, 
was, that Weyrauch, whom he had not 
noticed, had been allowed to be pre- 
sent. I was a prisoner of state, the 
order for my arrest was to be kept 
a profound secret; such instructions 
were inserted on the back of it, pro se- 
creto. In this case, the officer who re- 
ceives it is obliged, under the highest re- 
sponsibility, to impart the contents to 
no one ; and much less is he allowed to 
* execute the warrant in the presence of 



3* 

witnesses. I am perfectly convinced 
that the great embarrassment he was 
under was the sole cause of the inad- 
vertency of which he had been guilty. 

My business was now finished, my 
trunks sealed up, and the horses put to. 
The cradle of my youngest child, which 
had been fixed behind the carriage, now 
gave place to one of the servants, whose 
seat forward was to be occupied by a 
Cossack who escorted us. My port- 
folio was likewise sealed, and replaced 
in the pocket of the coach, and the keys 
were returned to me. I refused, how- 
ever, to take them, reflecting that the 
string of the seals might break and cre- 
ate new grounds for suspicion. I there- 
fore insisted on their being also sealed up. 

Sellin having executed his painful 
task resumed his accustomed manner of 
behaviour, and urged every thing he 
could that might tend to console us. 



33 

In all probability I shall never see him 
again, but should the narrative of my 
sorrowful adventures, which I am now 
writing, be one day published, let him 
read therein the gratitude of a heart 
deeply affected with a sense of his kind- 
ness, and which will ever continue to 
cherish his name and his image, 
J- We got into our carriage, and hence- 
forth had the exhibition of a Cossack, 
armed with his sabre and pistols, seated 
directly before us. My children were much 
amused at this, but my wife shed tears, 
and as for myself, I continued to preserve 
my usual composure of mind. I even 
tried to calm her, by affecting a gaiety 
of disposition. The sight of the Cossack, 
had it not been for his arms, had nothing 
formidable in it. He was a tall well- 
built man, very civil and very officious ; 
every time we got out of the carriage he 
politely took off his cap. 
vol. i. c 



34 

Seated in a kibick* behind was a cap-' 
tain, a Pole by birth, whose name I do 
not recollect. He spoke a little German, 
had been, during the revolution, aid-de- 
camp to General Mirbach, and since that 
time in close confinement at Mittau for 
a whole year. He had I know not what 
employment in the custom-house, and 
he appeared to be as ill calculated for 
this disagreeable commission as the wor- 
thy Sellin himself. We were during 
the journey upon a very civil footing 
together. He was not of the least in- 
convenience to me, and I should have 
intirely forgotten that he was present, 
had not my purse obliged me, in this ex- 
pensive part of Courland,^ to recollect 
him ; the expence of post-horses and pro- 
visions being entirely at my charge. 

The distance from Polangen to Mittau 

su£4a — i — -*_ 1 ; , — «?» — . — \ * ...» 

* A- Russian cart. 



> 6 



is computed at thirty-six German miles. 
We were three days upon the road, and 
all the time kept up our spirits tolerably 
well. 

My wife, indeed, seemed to be quite 
recovered : we had nothing further to 
apprehend than a delay at Mittau, which 
would however prove disagreeable, on 
account of the. high price of provisions 
there, and because we had already in- 
formed our friends in Livonia of the 
day we expected to arrive. In fact, 
what had we to fear r I had already 
been in the service of Russia, and was 
provided w^ith a testimonial that I had 
acquitted myself with probity and ho- 
nour. I had been for three years, with 
the Emperor's leave, in the service of 
Austria : and as dramatic writer to that 
court had fulfilled every duty incum- 
bent on a good subject. On leaving 
Vienna I had returned to the duchy of 



3& 

Weimar, without passing through any 
country at war either with Austria or 
Russia ; what then could I have to 
dread ? It seemed highly probable that all 
suspicion was confined to my papers ; 
and what did these harmless papers con- 
tain ? This the reader will now see, and 
he may from thence judge how little 
cause I had to be alarmed. 

The papers contained the following 
articles : 

A certificate of the government pf R-e- 
vel, of my services during fifteen years. 

The copy of an . ukas of the senate, 
which granted my resignation with ad- 
vancement. 

The order of the court of Vienna rela- 
tive to my resignation as manager of the 
theatre, and the continuance of my office 
as dramatic writer to the court, with a 
salary of one thousand florins a year. 



37 

A certificate from the theatre. 

A letter written by Count Colloredo, 
minister to the Emperor of Germany, 
on the subject of an omission in the 
above mentioned order, in which no 
specification had been inserted relative 
to the continuance of my salary for life. 
On that article I had enquired whether, 
in case I should live to grow old and 
become unable to write for the theatre, 
I should receive a pension ; and the an- 
swer was to my satisfaction. 

A note from count Saurau, the Em- 
peror of Germany's superintendant of 
the secret police, with another from 
M. de Schilling, aulic counsellor and 
member of the college. When I quitted 
Vienna, not satisfied with the honour- 
ablet estimony I had obtained relative to 
the administration of my office, I con- 
ceived it would be prudent, in the pre- 
sent circumstances, to obtain an instru-- 



merit certifying further, that during my 
residence in that capital I had conducted 
myself as became a good citizen, and 
that I had never given any cause for 
suspicion relative to my political opini- 
ons. With this view I had made appli- 
cation to Count de Saurau, intimating 
that although such a precaution might 
appear to be extraordinary, yet it was no 
less true that we lived in an extraordinary 
age. He had the goodness to make me 
easy on that head by furnishing me with 
the note and letter in question, and he 
closed the interview by assuring me, 
that should the least doubt arise relative 
to my way of thinking, justice should 
certainly be done me. 

A leave of absence from the theatre 
of Vienna, limited to the term of four 
months, for my journey to Russia, with, 
a clause requiring my return to Germa- 
ny in the month of October, stating that 



39 

the business in which I had embarked 
would not admit of my remaining any 
longer at so great a distance. 

M. de Krudener's letter which has 
been already mentioned. 

A sealed letter, from the reigning 
Dutchess of Weimar to the grand 
Dutchess Elizabeth. 

A letter and a book from M. Ber- 
tuch, counsellor of legation at Weimar 
for M. Storch, aulic counsellor at Pe- 
tersburg. 

A letter and a book from M. Botti- 
ger, counsellor of the upper Consistory 
at Weimar for — * I forgot the direction. 

Two bonds for 10000 roubles. 

A draft of thirty-two ducats for some 
manuscripts, payable at Dantzig in Au- 
gust. 

Four short copies of verses in honour 

* For Mr. Kohlor, aulic counsellor at Petersburg. 



40 

of my wife's birth-day, which happened 
the day after my arrest: After having 
passed over the sandy plains of Prussia 
for several days together along the banks 
of the Curisch . Haff, and having been 
obliged to wait a whole day for horses 
at Neiden, I stole away from my family 
at the latter place to a sandy hillock, 
where, seated under a pine-tree, I wrote 
some lines for my children and myself, 
which w r e were to present to their mo- 
ther, on the subject of that happy day, 
which however did not prove so happy 
as we had reason to expect. The stanza 
made for myself shews, that I already en- 
tertained a gloomy presentiment of the 
destiny that awaited me, 

<c Would heav'n, propitious to my pray'r, 
" In thy dear converse let me share 
" That best of bliss, domestic peace, 
" Till life and all its wishes cease, — 
" I'd fondly call thy distant home 
a My future prison and my tomb 1'* 



4i 

From these lines it is likewise evident* 
that my most painful apprehension was 
already that of not being able to leave 
Livonia, which, on account of the inter- 
ruption of literary intercourse, might 
have turned out greatly to my preju- 
dice. 

A Swiss song, copied in pencil with 
my own hand ; a kind of rondeau on 
the tree of liberty which had been cut 
down. I need only cite the last lines, 
in which, like the foregoing, the tree 
itself is addressed. 

" And may at last thy useful timber be 
" A gibbet for the whole directory !"* 

Remarks on the extraordinary posts 
of Prussia. 



* The good natured reader will spare the trans- 
lator the task of versifying the rest of this trash, 
which is however inserted at full length in a note 



in the original manuscript, 



42 

A collection of receipts obtained from 
a chemist at Konigsberg. 

Several loose sheets containing plans 
of dramatic compositions, sketches of 
poems, and such things, but nothing 
that related in any respect to politics. 

A couple of sheets of letter press, be- 
ing part of an almanack with which M. 
Rhode of Berlin charged me for IvL 
Gerber, the secretary, at Revel ; a mat- 
ter of no consequence whatever. 

The beginning of an Opera. 

A journal of the state of my health for 
some years past. 

The Gotha almanack for every coun- 
try, in which I had written some re- 
marks on my travels. 

A sealcut in stone, inclosed in a let- 
ter from one of my friends, who had 
given it me for the purpose of having it 
engraved. The seal was nothing more 
than a coat of arms which had been lately 



43 

sent from the herald's office of Peters- 
burg, consequently not at all liable to 
suspicion. 

A Weimar almanack interleaved* 
I had imitated the idea of Franklin's, 
which, if I am not mistaken, had been 
published in the Berlin journal. This 
great man had scrupulously examined, 
and made a kind of table of ail his fail- 
ings, with a firm resolution by degrees 
to amend them. Devoting every even- 
ing to this plan of self-examination, he 
became wiser and better, till at length 
he acquired an entire control over 
his passions. At whatever distance I 
remained from my model, I had at least 
endeavoured to execute his wise and 
good intentions, and i can declare with 
truth, that the expedient was attend- 
ed with considerable success. I can 
even recommend this method from my 
own experience to every man who has 



44 

his moral improvement at heart. He 
will insensibly feel a kind of terror on 
examining his almanack; he will dread 
to find the leaves too full of self-re* 
proaches, and often, very often will 
check the passion ready to obtain the 
mastery over him, on the recollection 
that at night it will be necessary to put 
down the particulars faithfully on the 
paper. 

All my dramatic pieces, not yet pub- 
lished ; Octavia, Bayard, Jane of Mont- 
faucon, Gustavus Vasa, The Prudent 
Woman in the Forest, The Desire^ to 
Shine, The Preceptors (a translation 
of my wife's) The Abbe de PEpee, The 
Reward of Virtue, The two Klingsbergs, 
The Prisoner, The New Century, the 
Devil's Villa. Not a scene in any of 
these pieces could render me liable to 
the smallest suspicion on the score of 
politics or morality. I brought them 



45 

with me to sell them to the theatre at 
Riga, as I had done on former occasions \ 
some of them had been translated at 
Weimar by the Chevalier du Veau, and I 
intended to have offered those versions 
to the manager of the French play-house 
at Petersburg;h. 

Lastly, a large folio volume, the de- 
pository of all my concerns, my letters, 
and my little secrets for five years past. 
Of this book I must beg leave to speak 
a little at large, as it is alone sufficient 
to assert my innocence. He who has 
turned over the leaves of it, knows me 
perhaps better than I know myself. All 
my civil relations, all I wrote, thought 
or acted ; all my projects are inserted 
therein; it contains as follows : — 

;An account of my expences and in- 
come ; the latter always noted with pro, 
with quare, with quid, and with quandc. 

A journal kept at Vienna relative to 



46 

the theatre, and some further particulars 
of trifling import. 

An annual list of all the letters I had 
written or received, specifying to whom, 
and from whom, with their respective 
dates. The rough copy of letters of 
consequence. 

In this and the preceding article may 
be seen in an instant what persons I had 
corresponded with for five years past, 
as well as the subject of each letter, and 
I am convinced that not one suspected 
name will be found therein, nor a line 
of equivocal acceptation. 

A journal of remarkable, though petty 
occurrences, which entirely related to 
my domestic way of life : the birth of a 
child, or the first cutting of its teeth ; 
the planting of a linden on my wife's 
birth-day ; a sickness in the family, a 
day spent in an agreeable spot, the visit 
of a friend ; — things of such nature 



47- 

formed the whole contents of the journal*, 
which, however destitute of merit it 
may seem in the eye of another, proves 
at least beyond all dispute, that I felt no- 
small delight in passing my time at 
home, and in the bosom of my family. 

Notes relative to my garden at Frie< 
denthal, of what I had myself sown, 
planted, and gathered therein. 

A catalogue of my literary labours 
during each successive year. 

Projects of literary undertakings : — 
these two last articles prove in the most 
convincing manner, that I never med- 
dled in politics, nor ever had any inch* 
nation to do so. 

A list of the books I had read to my 
wife, with some other particulars of no 
importance. 

I would ask the reader, if a book of 
this nature, belonging to an unknown 
person, were to fall into his hands, and 



48 

be perused by him, what idea he would 
entertain of the writer ? 

Although I had no reason to think 
this journal would have fallen into the 
hands of strangers during my life-time, 
yet, as the event has turned out other- 
wise, I conceive I have a right to appeal 
to its contents. Any one who is ac- 
quainted with the human heart will con- 
fess, that he who keeps such a register 
cannot be thought either a bad or a 
dangerous man. 

Such were my papers, as far as my me- 
mory allows me to recollect them. If I 
have forgotten any, they were most as- 
suredly of no great importance ; they 
could not have had any influence on my 
fate, nor at all affected the opinion which 
might be entertained of my principles. 
The reader may therefore see the reasons 
which I had to be at ease, not only on ac- 



49 

count of my innocence itself, but the 
proof of that innocence, which to the 
most superficial observer was evident, 
without any exertions on my part to 
further my justification. 

Had I wished to escape, nothing would 
have been more easy during the route 
from Polangen to Mittau. The second 
night we passed at the post-house; I 
rose early and walked out into the yard ; 
and as my officer lay in a distant room, 
and my Cossack was asleep in the anti- 
chamber, between my two servants, 
nothing could have hindered me from 
hiring a peasant's horse and instantly 
making towards the frontiers, to which 
I was still so near. But I was far from 
entertaining any such design. 

On the 26th of April, old style, we 

arrived at Mittau at two o*dock in the 

morning ; we alighted at the same inn, 

and occupied the same apartment as on 

vol. 1. d 



5<> 

our last visit, but experienced very 
different sensations. We took a few 
hours rest ; and even here the Captain 
slept in a distant room, and I was left 
without any guard. 

After a short and not very sound 
sleep, I put on my clothes and hastened 
with my guard to pay my respects to 
3VL de Drieser, the Governor of Mit- 
tau. I had known this worthy man at 
Petersburg, he had always treated me 
with distinction, and I was happy that 
he was the person charged with the 
examination of my conduct. Much 
elated with what I imagined was about 
to take place. I entered his hotel with 
confidence. I had promised my wife 
to send her information of what passed: 
it would be, as we thought, the business 
of a quarter of an hour. Alas ! to what 
illusions is the man exposed who depends 
on innocence alone ! 



ft 

When I entered the first anti-cham- 
ber, the Governor's servants observed 
that I could not appear before their mas- 
ter in a frock and turned down collar* 
However when I represented to them 
that I was a stranger, and unable to 
change my dress, as my other clothes 
were sealed up in my trunks, the keys 
of which were not in my possession, 
they made no further objection* 

We waited a considerable time in the 
second anti-chamber, and I had full lei^ 
sure to contemplate the singular tapes- 
try with which the room was hung. 
The furniture consisted of a few chairs 
and a sofa, but the wails were covered 
with subjects which it might be supposed 
had been placed there intentionally. A 
wolf, I observed, w r as tearing a deer ; a 
hawk pouncing upon a leveret : a bear 
hunting its prey ; and a fox caught in a 
trap.-JJut what struck me the most was 



52 

a large picture, inscribed with words 
of the following import : "<Man tames 
" the lion and the tyger ; he puts a bridle 
" into the mouth of the most unruly 
" horse, but he cannot bridle his own 
" tongue. " All this was represented in 
a way which was very common in for- 
mer times, partly by words and partly 
by figures. Instead of the word man, 
the representation of a man was intro- 
duced ; a horse was drawn where the 
name of a horse was wanted ; instead 
of writing the word tongue, a large one 
was depicted, to which a bridle was 
fastened. It must be allowed that these 
pictures were not very exhilarating ; 
and my mind became impressed with 
ideas very unlike those with which it 
had at first been occupied. 

My officer was summoned into the 
Governor's presence, and I remained 
alone. Jn a few minutes they both made 



' 55 

their appearance. The Governor receiv- 
ed me with evident embarrassment ; he 
however complaisantly mentioned our 
former acquaintance, and said, he had 
read my works, which though some- 
times written in a very sarcaftic strain, 
had nevertheless afforded him great 
pieafure. 

But this was not a subject which now 
interefted me. I assured him I consi- 
dered myself extremely fortunate in be- 
ing able to assert my innocence before 
him, and begged him to examine my 
papers with as much expedition as pos- 
sible. 

" That examination, (he replied) does 
" not concern me. I have orders mere- 
" ly to forward' them to Peterfburg, 
" and you are to accompany them with- 
" out delay." 

At first I was distressed at this answer; 
but soon recovering myself, I observed, 



54 

that having never lived separately from 
my wife, I hoped she would be allowed 
to go with me. At first I thought he 
would have acquiesced in my desire, 
but upon s6me remark made to him by 
a secretary, he gave me a positive de- 
jiial. I then told him, I could not an-, 
swer that ray wife would not come and 
solicit his consent herself upon her 
knees. " Spare me such a scene," re- 
plied he, " I am likewise a hufband and 
tc a father ; I feel all the distress of your 
" situation, but I am not able to remedy 
5* it. I must execute my orders in the 
" most exa£i manner : set off for Peters- 
burg, justify your conduct there, 
and in a fortnight you may embrace 
your family again. Your wife shall 
remain here ; make yourself easy, 
every thing fhall be done for hef that 
humanity and my own good wifhes 
can suggest." 



55 

On saying this he conducted me to 
his chamber, and left me for a moment, 
to give orders which unfortunately con- 
cerned me too fatally. 

There was a young lady of a sweet 
and interesting countenance in the room, 
who appeared to be the Governor's 
daughter. She was employed at her 
needle. On my entrance she saluted me 
kindly, did not speak, but sometimes 
raised her eyes from her work and fixed 
them upon me. I thought I could per- 
ceive more compassion than curiosity in 
these soft looks, and I frequently heard 
a sigh escape her. It will easily be con- 
ceived that the interest she took in my 
situation, did not contribute to allay 
my apprehensions. The Governor soon 
returned. " Things are no longer in 
" Russia as they used to be," said he ; 
" justice is now administered in the 

most scrupulous manner." 



t< 



56 

" I have great reason then to be easy," 
replied I. He expressed much surprise 
that I had voluntarily returned, and 
above all, that I had brought my family 
with me. Indeed a man who travels with 
bad designs, does not take with him his 
wife, three children, an elderly gover- 
ness, and two servants : I, therefore, 
who did so, must have been conscious 
of my own innocence, and easy in the 
confidence I reposed in the safe con- 
duel granted by his Majesty. 

A person in the uniform of the civil 
administration of Peterfburg was now 
introduced. " Here," said the Governor, 
" is the Aulic Counsellor Schstschekati- 
" chin, who will accompany you on 
" your journey ; make yourself perfect- 
" ly easy, (Sir, you are in good hands." 

" Does he underftand German or 
" French ?" 

" Neither the one nor the other." 



57 

" I am sorry for that/ 5 said I, " for 
" I have forgotten my Russian." 

The Governor then presented me to 
him, and I explained myself in his na- 
tive tongue as well as I was able, mak- 
ing use of gesticulation when at a loss 
for words. I took M. Schstschekatichin 
by the hand, and pressing it closely, 
craved his benevolence, w T hich was an- 
swered by a friendly grimace. 
/Before I proceed, it will be neces- 
sary to sketch the portrait of this 
man. Aulic Counsellor Schstschekati- 
chin, (may I be allowed to write this 
barbarous name here for th£ laft time, 
and to call him henceforth merely by 
his title ?) the Counsellor, I say, was 
a very swarthy man, almost black, 
about forty years of age, having very 
much the look of a satyr. Whenever 
he would assume an affable mien, two 
oblique wrinkles divided his face to the 



5* 

very corner of his eyes, and imparted 
to his whole countenance the expression 
of disdain. From the stiffness of his car- 
riage, it was evident that he had been in 
the army, and from certain deficiencies 
of common decorum, that he was an un- 
educated man, and had never frequented 
good company. For instance, he rarely 
made use of a pocket handkerchief ; he 
drank out of the bottle, though a glass 
stood before him, and commited many 
other acts of similar indecency. To 
the grossest ignorance he joined every 
outward sign of excessive devotion. He 
liad not the least idea of the causes of 
the common phenomena of nature j and 
such a stranger was he to literature, that 
the names of Homer, Cicero, Voltaire, 
Shakespeare, or Kant, had never reached 
his ear. He had no desire to learn any 
thing * but by way of amends he could 
ijiake the sign of the cross upon his fore- 



55 

head and breast with uncommon dex- 
terity. Every time he awoke, every 
time he espied a church at a distance, 
the point of a steeple, or the image of a 
saint ; every time he ate or drank ? 
(which was very often) every time it 
thundered or when we passed by a 
church-yard, my Counsellor took off 
his hat and crossed himself in every 
direction^ He did not, however, treat 
all churches alike ; if they were con- 
structed of wood, he paid them but lit- 
tle attention ; but if they were built of 
ftone, his respect considerably increased, 
and it became much more profound at 
the sight of a town with large domes 
and lofty steeples. This was, perhaps, to 
express his thanks to God that he had 
been enabled to brine: his victim so far 
on his way. I do not, however, recollect 
that I ever saw him pray, either with his 
lips or eyes, but of signs of the cross. 



6o 

lie was extremely lavifh Though he 
had very little reason for it, yet he en- 
tertained a very high opinion of himself. 
He would never listen to any kind of 
explanation, nor admit any sort of 
reasoning, let the subjeft of conversa- 
tion be ever so important. He always 
persisted in his own opinion, ornament- 
ing his countenance at the same time 
with the two deep wrinkles already men* 
tioned. If a man may be called bene- 
ficent for throwing farthings, right or 
wrong, out of the window, our Coun- 
sellor was of that description. No beg- 
gar solicited in vain ; and although he 
perceived his purse to grow lighter, that 
was no reason with him for withhold- 
ing his bounty. From the hurry he was 
always in to get rid of his small coin, it 
appeared that he considered this alms- 
giving in detail as a moft sacred duty. 
Not unfrequently would he throw a 



6i 

copek* out of the carriage, after we had 
passed a beggar ; and it was indifferent 
to him whether the poor wretch had 
any eyes or not ; whether he was maim- 
ed or lame, able or unable to see and 
pick up the money. He was devoid of 
all moral feeling ; innocence and guilt 
were the same to him, I fliall unfor- 
tunately have but too many occasions 
to finish his picture ; at present this 
sketch must suffice. 

Such w r as the worthy man into whose 
hands I was intrusted. I must confess, 
that at first I was much astonished that 
so benevolent a character as M. de 
Drieser should have made choice of 
this Counsellor, but I can have no- 
thing more to say on that head, as I 
have learnt that the Emperor himself, 
when he wrote to the Minister to grant 

* A Ruffian coin about the value of a halfpenny. 



62 

me a passport to enter unmolested into 
Russia, had at the same time given or- 
ders, that a Counsellor of the court and 
a Courier from the senate, should be dis- 
patched to meet and take me into cus- 
tody. As it was the end of January 
when I had requested the passport, and 
as I did not set off, as I have already 
stated, before the ioth of April follow- 
ing, my Counsellor had been waiting 
for me from the end of March till my 
arrival, which was nearly seven weeks. 
He often complained to me of the mo- 
ney he had spent and the ennui he had 
felt during this period- The first part 
of his complaint I was< ready enough to 
credit, but how is it possible that a man 
like him should be liable to ennui? I 
thought, and I still think, that fools, 
for one reason, are as free from that 
malady, as wise men are for another* 

-Having been informed that he was sent 



6 3 

by the Emperor, I have nothing more 
to say, but that, doubtless, he was not 
known to his Majesty; for that monarch 
was a well-informed man, and had he 
been aware what sort of person the 
Counsellor was, he would, on more than 
one account, have selected another. 

" Endeavour to accommodate your- 
self with a convenient carriage," said the 
Governor, " for you must set off imme- 
diately." I begged a respite till the next 
day, not having closed my eyes for three 
nights, and having besides been one 
month on the road, and in fact so much 
agitated for the last three days, that .1 
stood in need of twenty-four hours rest ; 
but my prayer was not to be granted. 
The Governor asked me to dine with 
him; but this invitation I declined, on 
which I was accompanied to the inn by 
one of his secretaries. This young man, 
whose name was Weitbrecht, in spite of 



6 4 

the forbidding coldness of his counte- 
nance, seemed to partake in my distress. 
He condoled with me, and assured me 
that the Governor, with the best inch- 
nations in the world, could not have 
done more for me: " For," said he, 
shrugging up his shoulders, " we are at 
present nothing more than machines." 
I was struck with this expression, which 
I afterwards heard repeatedly from 
others, and I have since thought that 
those who made use of it, did but little 
justice to the Emperor. In fact, how 
is it possible to conceive, that a man 
could wish to be served by mere ma- 
chines ? What confidence could he have 
in a creature that degraded himself so 
far as to become one? 
£. I returned to my chamber, where my 
dear wife had been passing a painful 
hour; she flew to meet me, and the 
utmost disquietude was visible in her 



65 

countenance* I strove to calm her, and 
with all the discretion I was master 
of, hinted that I must go to Petersburg, 
and without her. This information I 
communicated with all the consolations 
and hopes of a favourable iffue, which 
in that trying moment I was able to 
offer. The Secretary added, that the 
business would scarcely take up a fort- 
night. Our attempts to console the un- 
happy woman were of no avail; she 
strove to suppress her emotions, and 
threw herself on the bed in the most 
violent agony of mind. She determined 
at all events to follow me, and leave our 
children here ; to bear me company at 
least as far as my house at Friedenthal, 
thirty German miles from Petersburg ; 
this favour however was refused her. 
It will appear in the sequel, that such 
measures were of necessity adopted, as 
no report relative to her had yet been 

VOL I. K 



66 

made at Petersburg, no order had been 
received to molest her person. 

It was expedient, I find, to make en- 
quiry, whether a free-woman, and of 
noble birth, could be allowed- to- return 
home to visit her relations, and during 
the time necessary for the arrival of 
an answer (about . a fortnight) she was 
thus to remain : in & place where she had 
no acquaintance, at an dnn remarkable 
for its extravagant charges, torn .-from 
her husband, and herself a solitary prey 
to grief. It was not, however, doubted 
but that the answer would allowher to 
proceed wherever she, pleased. 

Ah, why have. I yet to finish the pic- 
ture of the heart-rending scene which 
preceded my departure! My disconso- 
late wife had sunk from my arms upon 
her bed, when she fell -into a state of 
[insensibility. My daughter Emma, a 
v child of five years old,; came every -mo- 



6/ 

ment, and threw her little arms around 
.my neck; my second, ignorant of what 
was going forward, began to cry, solely 
because her mother no longer noticed 
her; (my youngest, an infant of eleven 
months, smiled unconcerned in the arms 
of its nurse, a happy stranger to the 
horrors of the scene. My servants ran 
confusedly about the room, and knew 
not what they were doing; all was em- 
barrassment and dismav. 

The Counsellor arrived, the Courier 
placed himself in a corner, the Secretary 
ordered the seals which had been put 
on my baggage to be broken, and every 
thing it contained was examined with 
great care. As for myself, though ab- 
sorbed in the horrors of my situation, I 
now and then broke out into violent ex- 
clamations, arising from the heavy op- 
pression under which I laboured. Paying 
but little attention to what was 2:01112; on. 



68 

I 'threw myself by the side of my wife ; 
I pressed her in my arms, strove to con- 
sole her, bade her be calm, and have 
proper confidence in the justice of the 
Emperor, and in my innocence — " We 
have," continued I, w enjoyed many 
happy moments together, let us bear 
with courage a moment of affliction; 
it will be of short duration ; the Gover- 
nor tells me, that having once justified 
myself (which will take place in a fort* 
night) I shall again be restored to my 
family. Shew me, my dearest life, that 
you are not a woman of ordinary stamp; 
tears are unavailing j courage and reso- 
lution alone can serve us : Move hea- 
ven and earth, if you will, to save your 
husband — such is the part, my love, 
you have to act, a part that well be- 
comes a tender and faithful wife." 

I mentioned to my wife some people 
at Petersburg to whom she might write ; 



69 

and not being allowed to inform my 
mother of what had befallen me, I 
begged she would take that task upon 
herself, and impart the melancholy news 
with all suitable preparation, though 
Mr. Weitbrecht had already undertaken 
the same office.* 

:l My affectionate discourse was not lost 
upon her;, she grew calm, arose, saluted 
the Counsellor, gave him her hand, and 
begged him, with tears in her eyes, to 
take care of my health upon the way ; 
for (he had been told neither of my ser- 
vants would be allowed to attend me. 
O that a thousand witnesses had beheld 
that charming: woman in this agonizing; 
moment 1 What grace in her entreaties ! 
What loveliness in her sorrow ! Preci- 
ous tears ! Ye would have softened the 
most flinty heart ! — the Counsellor only 

* He never performed his promise. 



7 o 

smiled. . His nasal wrinkles played their 
accustomed part, and he promised her 
to pay due attention to what flie re- 
quested. The Secretary then asked me 
if I had much gold about me. I had 
a hundred Frederic d'ors, about fifty 
ducats, and two hundred dollars in 
silver. He urged me to change this 
money for Russian notes. This ap- 
peared a very extraordinary measure, 
for I did not want that sum to carry me 
to Petersburg, and when arrived there, 
I should find friends ; besides, I expected 
to go to Friedenthal, where, should I 
want any, I had money at command. My 
wife, on the contrary, had no resource 
where fhe was obliged to remain, and I 
therefore wished to leave the whole 
with her. The Secretary, however, still 
urged me in so extraordinary a manner 
to follow his advice, that I at laft yielded 
in part. He had even the goodness to 



7 1 

take upon himself the trouble of trans- 
acting this business, and he changed my 
gold at a very fair price, considering the 1 
urgency of my situation. 
/ Not being able to take any of our 
trunks with us, I made use of an old- 
portmanteau belonging to one of my 
servants, in which my wife's chamber- 
maid packed a change of linen sufil- 
cient for several weeks. With the same 
earnestness which the Secretary had 
used to engage me to change my mo- 
ney, the Courie/now recommended the 
maid to add Considerably to the stock*. 
She thought' this quite superfluous, and ■ 
paid inattention to his advice* Un- 
able to succeed in this point, he urged 
me to take a bed with me ; I was equally 
deaf to his entreaties ; he then desisted, 
and shrugged up his shoulders to ex-- 
press his pity- 
When I now coolly reflect on these 



7* 

various circumstances, I am unable to 
conceive how it happened, that not the 
slightest suspicion arose in my mind that 
I was doomed to take a longer journey. 
I was in fact so bewildered with my si- 
tuation, that I had no longer any clear 
conception of things. As for the money, 
I imagined it might so happen that I 
should not see my friends at Petersburg, 
but with regard to the advice about the 
linen, I could not comprehend what it 
could mean, my distracted thoughts be- 
ing wholly engrossed by my wife and 
my dear children. I was incessantly 
running from one to the other ; I took 
them all successively in my arms, I con- 
soled, I caressed them; I mingled jny 
tears with theirs. 

The Courier's eyes were wet; the 
scene before him had touched his heart. 
I cast a friendly look at him, which he 
returned in like manner. " Are you 



73 

married ? said L— He made a sign in the 
afErmative — and I have three children 
— then you understand me." He sigh- 
ed and shook his head. As this man 
has had so much influence on my fate,* 
I beg leave to draw his portrait. 

Alexander Schulkins was about thirty 
years of age ; a man without the least 
ray of cultivation, a sort of brute, but 
of a good kind. He had a Calmnck 
countenance, a round face, a turned-up 
nose, high cheek-bones, black hair, large 
chest and shoulders . On his left side 
he wore the escutcheon of a senate- 
courier, and round his waist was strap- 
ped a pocket to hold dispatches. His 
great delight was eating and drinking; 
he was not very choice in his food ; he 
ate and drank every thing that came in 

his way j and from the manner in which 

— — — . , 1 — -, 

* I have been mistaken in that point. 



74 

he acquitted himself, it was evident that 
this was his principal business. When 
he took his soup, he threw his head 
back, introduced the spoon up to the 
handle into his mouth, and in this man- 
ner poured the contents down his throat, 
without allowing his palate to taste of 
it. During this time he looked towards- 
the ceiling, and compressed his short 
forehead into a thousand little horizon- 
tal wrinkles, which set every hair in his 
head in- motion. In like manner he de- 
voured his meat ; not chewing, but 
merely swallowing it down.. Whenever 
I left a bone on my plate, he would in- 
stantly lay hold of it and. gnaw it. like a, 
dog. A glass of brandy must have been 
uncommonly large, if he did not dis- 
patch it at one single draught, and al- 
ways in the manner his food went down, 
which, as I have already observed, was 
directly into his throat. He could drink 



75 

a great quantity of spirits without being 
at all intoxicated, and all mixtures were 
alike to him ; tea, coffee, brandy and 
punch ; upon all of which, taken in the 
space of a quarter of an hour, I have 
seen him throw down two chopins of 
quass.* In short, he could eat and drink, 
and sleep at will, and at all hours of the 
day or night. I may add, that the Aulic 
Counsellor was his equal in the exercise 
of these fine talents, and was but little 
inferior to him in his taste for ftrong 
liquors. 

But rude as he was, Alexander Schul- 
kins had the advantage of the other in a 
moral point of view. He often betrayed 
a sensibility of disposition which excited 
the moft violent emotions ; not durable, 

* An acid drink not unlike small beer, but of a 
more nourishing quality. It is made by pouring 
hot water upon a quantity of barley, and J eft to 
foment in the heat of a stove. 



7 6 

indeed, but very sudden. He had some 
little knowledge, but the Counsellor had 
none at all. I recollect one day, that 
seeing a cuckoo, he observed, that that 
bird always laid its eggs in the nest of 
another, and left the owner the care of 
hatching them. The Counsellor becran 
to laugh ; when Alexander asked me if 
the circumftance was not true ? I replied 
it was ; when the Counsellor called forth 
his nasal wrinkles, and cast a look of 
pity on us both. What I have to say 
further relative to Alexander will be 
seen in the sequel. I shall only add, in 
order to make his office better known 
to the reader, that the Senate of Peters- 
burg has eighty such men at command, 
ready to carry orders to the most dis- 
tant parts of the world. They are, I 
believe, subaltern officers ; their dress 
resembles that of a postman, except the 
badge, which, though somewhat like 



77 

that of the latter, bqars a different in* 
scription. 

^-Let us now return to my sufferings. 
A carriage was to be bought ; several 
were exposed in the yard. This purchase 
was a great favour, though my own 
money was to pay for it. Commonly, 
when people are arrested, they are 
thrown, without any regard to age or 
rank, into a kibick, or some other vehicle 
still more inconvenient, and hurried on 
through all kinds of weather. I cannot 
deny but that in general I was treated 
with some kind of indulgence ; but for 
this no thanks are due to my Counsellor; 
I owe it to superior orders, for my hard- 
hearted keeper was utterly in capable of de- 
viating a single step from the line of con- 
duct that had been marked out for him. 
Persuaded that I was going no farther 
than Petersburg, I purchased a half- 
covered carriage, in other respe&s very 



78 

convenient ; not heavy, and hung upon 
springs, but fit only for a short journey, 
for this I paid five hundred rpubles. 

My wife, who observed that I was 
treated with indulgence, became more 
composed. She asked the Counsellor if 
I might be allowed to write to her on 
my route, and was answered, both by 
him and the Secretary, in the aflirma- 
tive. 

At length, towards the hour of seven, 
every thing being ready, I bade adieu to 
my afflicted family. How did my heart 
beat at this cruel moment ! My hands 
trembled, my knees tottered, my eye- 
sight failed me j even at the present day 
I cannot recollect this separation without 
painful emotions. The reader will al- 
low me to pause in this melancholy nar- 
rative. Neither my wife nor myself could 
weep ; the source of our tears were dried 
up, and our hearts were wrung with in- 



79 

expressible anguifli. I kissed my chil- 
dren, I blessed them ; their mother 
threw her arms about my neck, and 
fainted as flie received my embrace. 

The Secretary, who hitherto appeared 
•unconcerned, and had had recourse to 
common-place motives of consolation, 
could no longer refrain from shedding 
tears. Ah! if the kind-hearted Empe- 
ror (for such I know him to be) had 
been present, with what promptitude 
•would he have put an end to this scene 
of affliction. 

My wife, who could no longer return 
my caresses, continued to moan in a low 
and inarticulate voice ; her eyes were 
closed : I imprinted a kiss on her lips, 
as if it were the last, and immediately 
tore myself away. My servants led me 
to the carriage and took leave of me, 
deeply afflicted. A crowd of spectators, 
assembled under the gate-way, had been 



8o 

dispersed, and the carriage was drawn 
up there to avoid notice. I mounted with 
trembling steps, and was instantly dri* 
ven away. 

Thus was an unoffending man torn 
from his family ; a peaceful citizen ar- 
rested, furnished as he was with an Im- 
perial passport, and without knowing 
why. No — it is impossible that the Em- 
peror, the humane Emperor (for such 
in truth he is) could be at all privy to 
this transaction. It was not his order — • 
Some perfidious wretch, unknown to 
him, has certainly abused his name. It 
is now the ninth week since I have been 
able to learn whether my wife and chil- 
dren are alive or dead ; my destiny 
perhaps is fixed, and I fhall hear of them 
no more ! — My wife, from whom, dur- 
ing so many years, I have never been 
separated but twice, and that but for a 
week or two ; my dear wife and I are 



8 1 

now torn asunder, perhaps for ever !— 
We are passing these tedious and mourn- 
ful days almost without hope. O God ! 
will she survive this ? Has she -survived 
it? 

It is but a year ago, and I still recollect 
it with sorrow, that I went to drink 
the waters of Pyrmont. My wife had 
juft borne me a boy ; and she was not 
sufficiently recovered to accompany me. 
It was my intention to stay there three 
weeks, the shortest time specified for' 
taking the wafers with effect. Ten davs 
however had scarcely elapsed ere her 
absence became insupportable, and I im- 
mediately haftened back to her. Yet 
now nine weeks are elapsed since I saw 
her : wild knows if in nine years, nay, 
If ever, I shall see her again. One ray 
of hope still gleams before me. I feel 
some feeble consolation; If I am "deluded- 

VOL, I. f 



Si 

my despair will be equal to my misery, 
I can however meet death. 

Vixi, et quern dederat cursum fortuna, per agi. 

The man who has studied himself, 
who is at all acquainted with the human 
heart, will believe me when I declare, 
that in proportion as the carriage drove 
on, I found my spirits rise, and my 
heart recover its force. I began to look 
into the future. What did it present ? 
New enquiries — the examination of my 
papers, my conduct, my peaceable way 
of life. I had to deal with a just mo- 
narch who would not condemn me un- 
heard. What then could happen to me ? 
Some slight inconveniences, the natural 
consequence of my imperfect knowledge 
of the Russian language ; but, thought 
I to myself, I {hall have an interpreter : 
I may for a while be deprived of a few 
comforts, and must alter my usual ha- 
bitudes a little. These things are un- 



§3 

pleasant ; but surely, they are not very 
great misfortunes. And, though I may 
be visited by the return of a chronic dis- 
order, which has tormented me for 
twelve years past, yet there are good 
physicians at Petersburg; why then 
should I think myself unhappy ? It is no 
doubt a disagreeable incident, but then it 
is only momentary. I am about to visit 
friends I was voluntarily seeking ; some 
extra expence will be incurred ; but that 
is merely the sacrifice of a little money, 
the least painful of all sacrifices. I was 
befides fully persuaded that the Gover- 
nor of Mittau would take the greatest 
care of my family. He had promised me 
that every thing fhouid be done for them 
that humanity and his own good wishes 
could suggest.* 

* It will hereatfer appear, that my hopes un- 
happily were not realized. 



8 4 

Riga is not more than seven short 
German miles from Mittau, yet we did 
not arrive there till midnight. It was 
dark when we approached the banks of 
the Duna, which laves the w T alls of that 
hospitable city, and as the floating bridge 
had not been restored on account of the 
great floods, we were obliged to crofs 
the river in a common boat, which con- 
siderably retarded our journey. 

"When we arrived at the gate, our Cou- 
rier alighted and .went into the guard- 
house, where he staid a considerable 
time ; but : this circumstance gave me no 
concern. At length he appeared, and or- 
dered that we fhoukl drive to the pofl- 
house, not through the city, properly 
so called, but in a circuitous manner, 
through several long andxrooked streets. 
We were delayed but a short time ; 
fresh horses were quickly put to the 
carriage, and we proceeded. 



8 5 

I must here remark that the post-or- 
der (podsroschnej allowed three horses 
in the name of the 'Emperor, and that 
the post-masters frequently put four. 
The fourth horse was sometimes paid 
for, and sometimes not. In the first case, 
they had the post-order in their favour, 
and the extra horse was at my exnence. 
j£ We left Riga about two o'clock in 
the morning. The air was extremely 
cold, exhausted nature called for re- 
pose, and letting down the windows I 
fell asleep. At the next post I awoke ; 
I merely observed it was day -light, and 
again closed my eyes. 
^ What language can describe my aston- 
ifhment and terror, when on awaking 
a short time after, I perceived that the 
route had been changed. With difliculty 
was I so much master of myself as to 
suppress a scream of horror, just ready 
to escape me. A kind of instinct how- 
ever prompted me to remain silent. I 



86 

am unable to describe what passed in 
my mind : Whither are they taking me? 
Where are my papers to be examined ? 
Who is to examine them ? In a word, 
what are they going to do with me ? — 
All these queries rushed upon my mind 
at once; they distracted my brain, but 
remained totally unsolved. Could I 
indeed conceive it possible that I was 
to be thus dragged to the world's end, 
without having been either heard or ex- 
amined ? 

Being arrived at the post-house, I asked 
for somecoffee, more with a view of gain- 
ing time than from a want of refresh- 
ment. While it was preparing I walked 
about the room in much agitation of 
mind ; the Counsellor stood near the 
carriage conversing with the postmaster ; 
the Courier kept looking at him from 
the window, till he was sure he was not 
observed by him : then addressing me, 
according to the Russian custom, " Fe- 



8 7 
" dor Carlovitsch," said he, " we are 
" not going to Petersburg, we are go- 
" ing much farther." * Where?" faid 
I, in a broken voice. " To Tobolsk, my 
" dear Sir." " To Tobolsk !"— At this 
word my knees shook under me, and a 
tremor seized my whole frame. " Canyou 
u read Russian ?" added he (still keeping 
his eyes on the Counsellor) : " A little," 
replied I. " Look at the post-order :" 
I read, '" By command of his Imperial Ma- 
" jesty, &c. from Mittau to Tobolsk, Au- 
" lie Counsellor Schstschekatichin, and a 
" person with him, accompanied by a Se- 
u nate-courier, on affairs relative to the 
" Crown, &c" Let the reader, if he is 
able, imagine my sensations at this dread- 
ful discovery. I was completely thun- 
derstruck. 

"?■ I would have told you this at Mit- 
tau," faid the Courier ; " but we were 
" too closely observed ; I have been ex- 



8S 

" trernely sorry for you from that very 
" moment. I have a wife, and I have 
" children too j I well know . . . ." I 
thanked him ; and he begged me to be 
careful not to let it be perceived that he 
had intrusted me with this secret ; for, 
said he, the Counsellor is a severe un- 
feeling man. 

The Counsellor now entered the room ; 
fortunately he was no better versed in 
the science of physiognomy, than in the 
natural history of the cuckoo, or he 
would not have overlooked the paleness 
of my cheeks, and the convulsive tremor 
of my whole body. He swallowed a 
glass of brandy without perceiving any 
thing extraordinary in me. The coffee 
came in, and as it may naturally be sup- 
posed I did not taste it. I pretended to 
be indisposed, and Heaven knows I was 
not a little so ! I paid for the coffee, the 
Counsellor drank it, and we continued 



8 9 

our journey. The roughness of the road 
brought me to my senses, and then it 
was that the Idea of making my escape 
for the first time came into my head. I 
am banished to Siberia, said I to myself, 
without having been heard, without any 
legal process, without sentence, by the 
mere force of tyranny, without even be- 
ing informed why I am sent thither. 

The whole business is incomprehen- 
sible : either the Emperor is an entire 
stranger to it, or I am the victim of in- 
famous imposture. My papers, then, are 
not the cause of my arrest, or they would 
have undergone an examination before I 
could have been condemned to so heavy 
a punishment. Some enormous crime 
has been laid to my charge ; false in- 
formation has been lodged against me, 
and the calumniator, in order to screen 
himself from detection, has caused me 
to be exiled unheard; to be buried alive in 



9° 

Siberia : In Siberia ! — Ah how shall I ever 
be able to justify myself there ? Will my 
complaints reach the shores of the Bal- 
tic ? And should they indeed find their 
way thither, on what shall I ground my 
justification, when I am even ignorant of 
what I am accused ? Let me then make 
my escape ! This idea took deep root in 
my mind, and soon became a fixed re- 
solution. 

J On the brow of a hill on the banks of 

^ the Duna, and near the post-house, 

stands an ancient castle, w r hich belonged 

to a Livonian Prince, who, after having 

for a while defended himself against a 

- host of Christians, received baptism 
with all his subjects. The picturesque 
appearance of the ruins inspired me with 
the idea of seeking a shelter among them, 
even at the hazard of perishing with 
hunger. With this idea was combined 
a favourable recollection. I remembered 



9 l 

that the estate, which was called Koken- 
husen, belonged to a Baron de Lowen- 
stern, with whom I had become ac- 
quainted in Saxony. He had the repu- 
tation of being a worthy man, I knew 
him to be so, and in case of need, it oc- 
curred to me that I might surrender 
myself up to him. 

We were now arrived at the post- 
house y the master and his family seem- 
ed fo be good sort of people. While 
the Counsellor was at a little distance, 
and the horses were changing, I in- 
quired, in German, " to whom this 
estate belonged ? — To Baron de Lowen- 
stern, was the reply. — Where does he 

live ? Just below — pointing to his 

house, at a small distance. — Is he at 
home ? — No, he is now fourteen verstes 
off, at Stockmannshof, with his brother- 
in-law. — And his family likewise ? (I 
knew his lady, one of the best women 



9 2 

in the world, and his children, who were 
worthy of such parents.) — Yes, replied 
they. — Is Stockmannshof in our way? 
— -You will pass through it. — Is Dopart 
far off?; — Six German miles." It was 
not possible to make further enquiries ; 
the horses were put to, and we hurried 
away. 

«^An accident happened on the road 
which afforded me no small satisfaction. 
One of our horses became restive, and 
suddenly ftood still. The postillion used 
every effort to make him move, without 
effect ; in ipite of hollowing and beat- 
ing, the animal remained immoveable. 
My companions now began to swear, 
and bestowed on the whole Livonian 
nation the grossest abuse. Every expe- 
dient being at length exhausted, our 
Courier gave vent to his ill-humour in 
beating the postillion. The latter dis- 
mounted, and declared he would not go 



93 

on if he was to be treated in that .man- 
ner. This declaration was very natural., 
but it threw the Counsellor into a violent 
rage \ he alighted, and making up to the 
first tree, cut oft a thick branch, and seiz- 
ing the postillion by the throaty threw 
him on the ground, and began to beat him 
without mercv. He then ordered him 
to take the reins again, if he did not 
wish for a repetition of the discipline 
which he. had just received* But while 
he was getting into the carriage, and the 
Courier was engaged in helping him up, 
the postillion, who .had a very good pair 
of legs, was quickly at a hundred paces 
from us. In vain the Courier strove to 
overtake him ; the man had already 
.gained too much ground, and his pur- 
suer was obliged to return. We were 
now left on the high road, with a restive 
.horse, and without a driver. In this 
sad perplexity, what was to be done.? 



94 

To return seemed best, and we immedi- 
ately set about doing so ; but we moved 
on at a slow rate, for the Courier, who 
had taken the reins, did not know how 
to drive. He kept going from right to 
left, and from left to right, and this cost 
the Livonian nation, who had nothing 
to do in the business, another volley of 
cursefe and infamous exclamations. 

When I say curses, I am not quite cor- 
rect ; I should not use the plural num- 
ber ; the Russians have but one curse, 
which, it must be allowed, is worth all 
the rest. ^They wish, for instance, that 
the mother of the man against whom 
they are enraged, may have the devil for 
her paramour ;|and they express this in 
a manner so explicit, that those who are 
. averse to doubtful meanings, must be 
perfectly satisfied with it. I do not exag- 
gerate when I declare, that, during this 
single day, our people had recourse to 



95 

this vile ribaldry more than a thousand 
tim^si The expression is indeed as com- 
mon among the ill-bred Russians, as 
damning a thing is in the mouth of an 
Englishman, or as the word Monsieur 
was, in former times, in that of a French- 
man. 

On our return to Kokenhusen, the 
Counsellor made many bitter complaints 
against the postillion, without saying a 
word about the beating which he had 
given him. " You must have used him 
ill," said the post-master, " for he is a 
steady lad." The fact was positively de- 
nied ; the post-master looked at me, and 
I answered in favour of the injured post- 
boy by an inclination of my head. 

It is well known, that in a coarse 
mind the consciousness of having been 
in the wrong creates emotions of anger. 
Our Counsellor finding himself in this 
position, poured forth a volley of the 



o.6 

■most indecent abuse, which he accom- 
panied, with threats. But as the post- 
master had no legal remedy, except that 
of making his complaint in the usual 
way, without being able to retard the 
departure of the Courier, he gave us a 
fresh horse ; but a fresh postillion was 
not so easily to be found. This cir- 
cumstance took up a considerable time, 
which, as far as it concerned me, was by 
no means disagreeable. 

During all this time I remained alone 
in the carriage. The post-master's bro- 
ther came up to me, and in a manner 
that seemed very particular, said, " Your 
" name, Sir, is not inserted in the body 
" of the post-order •" I was quite at a 
loss what answer to make. I have since 
indeed learnt, that the name not being 
inserted therein, the post-master was 
not obliged to furnish horses. Had I 
known this sooner, I should have urged 



97 

him to have availed himself of his right. 
What could our Counsellor have done ? 
He must have waited here till he could 
have provided himself w ith horses from 
Riga. The Governor of Riga being to- 
tally ignorant of this, would have writ- 
ten to Mittau, which must have taken 
up considerable time ; and in this in- 
stance at least, much advantage might 
have been gained by procrastination. I 
should by this means have had time to 
prepare for my flight ; but in the state 
of ignorance in which I now remained, 
I was unable to avail myself of this de- 
sirable expedient ; and accordingly after 
dinner, we set out m the usual mam: 

During the whole journey, I continued 
to take a mental survey of the country, 
and particularly in the neighbourhood 
of Stockmannshof. The Buna ran on 
my right, and on my left I remarked a 
chain of hills covered with wood. At 

vol l G 



9 8 

six o'clock we arrived at the frontier 
post.* 

In a little time, said I to myself, my 
destiny will be fixed. Beyond Livonia 
I shall find no friends, no acquaintance, 
not a soul that can speak the same lan- 
guage as myself : now then is the time 
to make my escape. With this view I 
declared, though it was far from being 
late, that I was unable to go on any far- 
ther, and that I must absolutely stop 
to obtain a little rest. This displeased 
our Counsellor ; he would fain have 
persuaded me to continue the journey ; 
he however thought fit to stop, and this 
complaisance must certainly be attribut- 
ed to his orders, which enjoined him 
not to weary me to death. 



* The frontiers of Livonia, and the province of 

Witpsk, 



99 

/ It was accordingly arranged that we 
should pass the night at this place. The 
post-house had a very miserable appear- 
ance, the room we were in being full of 
hogs and poultry, and in other respects 
extremely disgusting. I urged with great 
vehemence our going farther to an inn 
which I had perceived, and which being 
built of stone, promised to afford better 
accommodations ; but the truth was, 
that the post-house was ill-adapted for 
the execution of my project. 

This inn, to which we drove, was 
kept by an Israelite, and belonged to the 
village of Stockmannshof. It stood on 
the high road, which alone feparated it 
from the Duna. At a few paces from 
hence the woody hiI3s p in which I had 
placed all my hopes, began to rise. The 
Courier set about preparing supper. He 
boasted of his culinary talents, and had 
killed a fowl, of which he promised to 



100 

make an excellent mess of broth. I ap- 
peared to be much delighted at these 
preparations, and in the mean time 
strolled about the door with the Coun- 
sellor. I examined the banks of the ri- 
ver, and the rafts of timber which were 
floating down the stream. I took a 
silent survey of the country, returned 
to my chamber and examined the win- 
dow, which w r as fastened only by a slight 
string. I observed with delight that it 
favoured my purpose, and that it 
might be opened and shut without any 
noise. 

The Counsellor accidentally left some 
writing paper on the table : I had the 
precaution to conceal a fheet of it, in 
the notion that it might hereafter prove 
extremely useful to me. 

At nine o'clock the Courier brought 
in supper, which consisted of a strong 
soup, a smoke-dried sausage, and some 



lOI 

Dantzic spirits. The two last articles 
my wife's chamber-maid had put into 
the carriage without my knowledge. 

In order to compliment the talents 
of the cook, I tasted a few spoon- 
fuls of soup, and I even assumed a 
gaiety of behaviour that was far from 
appearing unnatural. The mind, in the 
present instance, was however more obe- 
dient than the body, for in spite of all 
my attempts, I could not swallow a mor- 
sel, and I pretended extreme lassitude 
in excuse for my want of appeite. 

I now rose from table to retire to rest. 
My companion would have persuaded 
me to occupy the bed, the only one in 
the house ; but as it stood in a distant 
corner of the room, I observed that as 
it seemed very dirty, I preferred some 
clean hay, which I caused to be laid 
on the ground not far from the win- 



102 



dow. My night-gown was spread over 
this ; I wrapped myself up in my cloke, 
and was about to throw myself down, 
dressed as I was, upon this rustic bed, 
when the Courier came to me to pull 
oft my boots. Fortunately he placed 
them near me, I laid myself down and 
apparently fell asleep. 

My fellow-travellers remained at the 
table till they had nothing more to eat 
or drink, and then went to rest. The 
Counsellor stretched himself upon a 
bench which was separated from me 
only by the table. ; Above it was the 
window through which I hoped to es- 
cape. The Courier slept in the carriage, 
which stood close to the same window. 

It was now nearly eleven o'clock ; the 
night was dark, though the moon was 
at the full. The Counsellor was fast 
asleep. This was the favourable mo- 



io 3 

ment j but unluckily our Jews were 
celebrating the eve of their Sabbath in 
the most noisy manner. They kept 
continually running through the cham- 
ber ; at one time came the host, at ano- 
ther his wife, and then the children. This 
unpleasant noise often roused the Coun- 
sellor from his slumbers, and made him 
rave and swear most angrily. I joined 
my prayers to his imprecations ; but all 
in vain ! for these orgies continued till 
two o'clock in the morning, at which 
hour the Israelites retired to rest, and all 
became quiet. 

Availing myself of the profound si* 
lence which now reigned throughout 
the whole house, I entered upon my 
enterprize. In the first place I crawled 
on my knees, and gently untied the 
string of the window ; this I happily 
effected without the least noise or diili- 
culty. I heard the Courier Miore, and 



2 04 

tvas enchanted at the sound. I then be- 
gan to feel for my boots, and taking 
hold of them, together with my cloke, 
I got upon the table in the most cau- 
tious manner, scarcely allowing myself 
to breathe, and always pausing when I 
heard the Counsellor stir. Thus far all 
went on perfectly well ; but I now met 
with great embarrassment. The window 
was high, my foot could not reach the 
ground, nor was there any thing against 
the wall on which I might have step- 
peel. 

What was to be done ? Should I drop 
down at once ? This could not be ac- 
complished without having two hands 
to hang by, and my left hand was full. 
To have thrown my things into the 
street would have made some noise, and 
if the Counsellor should awake before 
I could follow them, all my projects 
e at an end. This was, * howe- 



io 5 

ver, my only resource, and I had no 
time to lose. I first let down my cloke 
very softly ; it served to receive my 
boots, which instantly followed, without 
any noise or accident. It was now my 
turn to descend. I hung upon my el- 
bows, one of my feet touched the car- 
riage, and the other the ground, and 
thus I cleared my way. 

Having effefted my escape, it was ne- 
cessary to provide against immediate 
discovery. The Courier continued snor- 
ing in a manner that promised a long sleep, 
but the cold that would come in at the 
window might awaken the Counsellor, 
who would instantly discover my flight. 
To prevent such an accident, I drew the 
window as closely as I was able, and 
then turning the corner of the house, I 
put on my cloke and boots. 

I first wandered thro' a swampy mea- 
dow, which lay behind the inn, but 1 



io6 

boon got into the high road. My plan 
was to hasten to Kokenhusen, and throw 
myself upon the post-master's mercy. 
The hope I placed in this man and his 
family, was partly founded on their 
physiognomy, and partly on the unplea- 
sant affair of the preceding day, which 
I thought they would he inclined to re- 
sent : and I w^as also of opinion, that 
they might not be insensible to the 
charms of a large sum of money, which 
would have been much at their service 
for their assistance. 

Should the man be disinclined to har- 
bour me in his house, or should he not 
have room for me, I then intended to 
have concealed ,myself among the ruins of 
Kokenhusen, and to make an agreement 
with him to supply me with food. I also 
intended, through his means, to inform 
Baron de Lowenstern of my flight, 
who would send such information to 



my wife, and she would make known 
my situation to my friends, In short 
I had formed a plan which appeared 
very practicable ; but I have reasons for 
not entering into further detail at pre- 
sent.* 

A single circumstance completely frus- 
trated my plan : It was necessary that I 
fliould arrive during the night at Koken- 
husen, to avoid being overtaken by the 
Counsellor, and the Jews' Sabbath had 
too much retarded my operations. It 
was full three o'clock, and five hours 
were hardly sufficient for so long a walk. 
It might happen that the Counsellor 
would get up early and overtake me ; 
and besides, I dreaded appearing by 
day -light at Kokenhusen, where it was 
very natural to suppose inquiry would 

* These reasons no longer influence me, and I 
set in another part of this nar- 
rative. 



io8 

speedily be made, not only by my com- 
panions, but by others, inconsequence 
of the general alarm they would spread. 
I therefore determined to proceed as 
long as I was favoured by the night, 
and to conceal myself in the woods the 
moment day began to appear. 

Every thing being thus considered and 
arranged, I followed the highway, still 
walking through the adjacent meadows 
whenever I found a path near the road. 
At length I perceived by the light of 
the moon, a house which the day be- 
fore I had taken for a military pavilion. 
In Livonia we often meet with such 
buildings; they serve to lodge the of- 
ficers whose regiments are stationed in 
the environs ; and when the guests are 
gone, the houses are shut up. I had ob- 
served the preceding day, that the doors 
and window-shutters were closed, that 



109 

the ceritry-box was empty 5 and I con- 
cluded it was not inhabited. 

Under this conviction, as it lav at 
some distance from the high road, I re- 
solved to pass by it. 

" Who 2:oes there ? M cried a centineL 
A question so unexpected startled me ; 
but I had the pr-since of mind to make 
the usual reply. 

" What road are vou taking ; 

" Whither are you going :*' " To Stcck- 
mannshof." — " But the road lies there,"' 
u I did not perceive it." 
> I was going on. but " Halt !" " Hi: 
u friend/' said I ; " I am coining from 
" Stockmannshof : I have been paying 
'va visit to a Jew girl yonder ; let me 
M get back snugly, and take no notice of 
i; having seen me at all." To this request 
I added the offer of some money. 1 
man murmured aiittle.but let me pass on. 

This accident rendered me timid ; 



no 

feared others of the same kind, and 
kept entirely along the high road. Had 
I been observed here, at least there would 
have been nothing extraordinary in it, 
and besides I found it was better walk- 
ing than through the meadows. 
I Another adventure now befel me. 
After having travelled a few verstes, I 
heard the alarm beat at a considerable 
distance behind me. This custom re- 
quires some explanation. 

In the Russian villages, and other 
places very remote from towns, a plank 
is suspended between twopieces of wood, 
Whenever the servants are to be called 
to their meals or their work ; or when 
the hour of the day is to be made known, 
this board is struck with a heavy mallet, 
and the sound is heard at a very great 
distance. I was much alarmed. It is 
very early, said I to myself ; the ser- 
vants are no where accustomed to break- 



Ill 

fast so soon ; it cannot be the hour that 
is struck, for this is not the manner of 
doing it, the strokes fall too fast. Alas ! 
I perceive whit it is : The Counsellor 
has discovered my escape ; he has alarm- 
ed the mn, or spoken with the centinel, 
who has certainly betrayed me ; he is 
therefore pursuing me, and raising the 
country in his progress. * 

The noise at last becoming very sus- 
picious, I was induced to quit the pub- 
lic road, and immediately rushed into 
a close copse. From time to time I fell 
into a glade, which I hastily ran across, 
and again took shelter among the trees. 
The wood now began to grow thicker. 
I saw a hill before me, which seemed 
to promise a favourable retreat, and 
I made towards it by the nearest way, 

* Whether my conjectures were right, I have 
not since learnt having never spoken of this affair. 



112 

which led me over some marfhy ground, 
and the farther I proceeded, the more 
I became entangled in the swamps. 
Being up to my knees in very stiff 
clay, I . began to reflect on what was 
to be done, and feeling myself quite 
worn out with fatigue, I remained mo- 
tionless in the midst of the bog. Day- 
light was near at hand ; but of what use 
would it be to me? The underwood was 
thick ; I was surrounded by young pine 
trees 5 and I could not see ten steps before 
me. Whatfhould I do ? Return? No: 
death itself appeared less dreadful than 
the necessity of being driven to that re- 
solution. At length I recovered a lit-' 
tie from my fatigue, and exerting all 
my strength, after an hour's painful 
walk, arrived at the hill. This hill, 
however, did not afford what it pro- 
mised at a distance: I quitted it, and con- 
tinued to make the best use of my legs. 



IJ 3 

Rambling from hill to hill, I found seve- 
ral paths which led to some ill-cultivated 
grounds in the woods. These I endea- 
voured to avoid \vitli extreme caution, 
but I often fell into them, and was con- 
sequently led so much astray, that at 
night I should not have been able to have 
regained the high road, had I not been 
guided by the sound of the waters of the 
Duna, which seemed always to be within 
hearing. In fine, after all these windings, 
after having rejected twenty different 
spots as improper to remain in, I ob- 
served a clump of firs extremely thick 
and gloomy. In the midst of this grove 
two lofty birch trees rose from the same 
stem, and joined in a friendly manner 
their spreading branches : they reminded 
me of my tender union at home, and 
afforded me a happy presage. I gave the 
preference to this spot, half persuaded 
that under the shelter of these trees no 
harm could happen to me* 

VOL.- 1. h 



U4 

It was then only seven o'clock, and I 
could not think of quitting my retreat 
before ten : I therefore had time enough 
to arrange the plan of my future pro- 
ceedings. I began to scrape the dirt from 
my boots, and should have dried myself 
completely, had the weather been warmer 
and the spot less damp. I wrapped my- 
self up in my cloke, and sat down at 
the foot of the birch trees. The sur- 
rounding firs formed a thick inclosure, 
beyond which, at the distance of thirty 
steps, was a swampy fence-wood, termi- 
nated by a bare and barren hill. I could 
perceive through the branches every 
thing that passed over the hill or through 
the copse ; and on my right hand and 
left, as well as behind me, the w r oods 
bounded the horizon. 

Stockmannshof, said I to myself,, is 

not far distant : It is the residence of 

his Majesty's Chamberlain, M. de Beyer, 

• the father of Madame de Lowenstern ; 



IJ 5 

I have heard him well spoken of ; he is 
a man of a noble turn of mind, and 
most assuredly his daughter must like- 
wise possess many excellent qualities, 
having been educated by such parents, 
and having had the advantage of their 
excellent example always before her. I 
was perfuaded at that time that I might 
safely depend on him ; but I soon after 
entertained a very different opinion. — 
His seat, continued I, is near the high 
road ; the Counsellor, perhaps, may 
have been there, and given orders to 
every one in the village to detain me. 
Kow should I be able to speak to M. de 
Beyer without making my way through 
his whole train of lacqueys, who might 
have heard of my flight, and would pre- 
vent the kind assistance of their master ; 
who being a man above the temptation 
of any reward, would be solely actuated 
by his own feelings in affording me as- 



n6 

sistahee : My first plan, thought I, is 
therefore preferable ; I will go to Ko- 
kenhusen ; should the Counsellor have 
got the start of me, and spread the alarm 
there, the people I am going to will only 
laugh at his perplexities, and assist me 
for the sake of satisfying their own re- 
venge. Should he even give then) mo- 
ney, I will double the sum ; it is well, 
however, to take this day to consider 
all possible contingencies. 

After thus counselling with myself, I 
drew the sheet of paper from my pocket 
and cut it into several slips ; then taking 
out my pencil, I began to write with 
wet fingers, a billet to M. de Beyer, one 
to Baron de Lowenstern, a third to my 
wife, with some other notes of no con- 
sequence. While I was thus employed 
a storm arose : I was well aware, that 
during its continuance it was dangerous 
to remain under the trees : I felt no in- 



clination, however, to leave this shelter, 
and even wished the thunderbolt to fall 
on my head, I have always considered 
this kind of death as the most desirable, 
and I should now have received as a bles- 
sing the stroke that would so easily have 
terminated all my misfortunes : But I 
wished for dissolution in vain ; the storm 
exhausted itself in a violent shower of 
hail, which quickly changed into rain, 
and I was drenched from head to foot* 
./This shower, however disagreeable in 
itself, was in another point of view ex- 
tremely favourable. I had suffered thirst 
to such a degree, that my tongue was 
parched : The trees now glistened with 
large drops of water ; I applied my lips 
to every fir apple I could reach, and at 
this moment I felt the whole force of 
that picture contained in the Gofpel, of 
the rich man in torments., begging in 

J DO O 

vain for a drop of water to cool his 



n8 

parched tongue ! When I had exhausted 
all that were at hand, I went further in 
quest of others ; but I was constantly 
under the necessity of proceeding cau- 
tiously, lest in snatching too eagerly at 
the tempting bough, the drops of rain 
should fall on the ground before I could 
reach them. By degrees I grew more 
dexterous ; but an uninvited guest soon 
came to rob me of my frugal beverage :• 
the meridian sun evaporated every drop* 
I heard a carriage pass along a road 
which I conceived to be the highway. 
I imagined it to be my own, which the 
Counsellor might have taken in order 
to pursue me at his ease. This was the 
only sound made by a human being that 
had yet disturbed my solitude. At noon, 
however, it was disturbed in a manner 
that filled me with inexpressible terror. 
I observed a peasant on horseback, trot- 
ting in various directions across the plain. 



ii9 

He traversed the meadows, rode up the 
hill, gallopped down again, surveyed the 
bushes and rode in among them. At 
last, seeming not to know which way to 
take, he made directly towards my hid- 
ing-place. Happily the friendly clump 
that afforded me a refuge, concealed me; 
the man turned off, and I saw him no 
more. I had already remarked that no 
road ran near this spot, and I naturally 
concluded the peasant to be . one who 
was sent in search of me. 

Half an hour afterwards, a cart ap- 
peared on the same spot, and merely 
crossed it : In both cases I laid myself 
flat on the ground. 

I I perceived in the afternoon that the 
forest which laid behind me did not ex- 
tend so far as 1 had at first thought, and 
I observed several carriages pass near 
me in front. I likewise heard three or 
four peasant girls singing-, and playing 



/ 



I2G 

together at no great distance : they did 
not seem to be of the number of the 
peasants sent out in quest of me, whence 
I supposed it was the road to some vil- 
lage that lay in the neighbourhood. 

About five o'clock I experienced an 
alarm which greatly surpassed all that I 
had hitherto felt. I heard the cry of a 
pack of hounds, and the voice of the 
huntsman who was leading them on. — 
The story of Joseph Pignata, who after 
his escape from the prison of the Inqui- 
sition was hunted by blood-hounds, 
rushed into my mind. I knew, indeed, 
that in Lavonia it was not the custom to 
hunt men ; but the animal that was pur- 
sued might take towards the spot where 
I was concealed, and the dogs in follow- 
ing the scent, would of course penetrate 
my retreat ; and it is well known to 
^very sportsman, that when they come 
within view of a human creature, they 



121 

alter their cry. In such a predicament, 
I must unavoidably be discovered by the 
huntsman. At one time they were with- 
in two hundred paces of my hiding- 
place. In this perplexity I wrapped my- 
self closely up in my cloke, and yielded 
entirely to chance. The hunt by degrees 
took another direction, and the dogs 
soon ran out of sight in pursuit of their 
game. 

I am not at present able to say with 
certainty, whether this was merely a 
common hunt, or a pack of hounds led 
out in pursuit of me ; but I have reason 
to believe that I was actually the object 
of their chase, the hunting season being 
over. On the other hand, it is well 
known that the shepherds dogs follow 
the scent in the spring, and make great 
havock among the game. 

In addition to the terrors arising* from 
real dangers, I had likewise to contend 



122 

with the idle illusions of the fancy. At 
one time I imagined an old stump of a 
tree in the fence-wood to be a man ; and 
as the day declined I grew still more 
subject to these deceptive apprehensions. 
At another time I thought I perceived 
a sportsman before me with a green hat 
and jacket, and that he was taking aim at 
me. I observed his fowling piece, mark- 
ed the turn of his countenance, which 
seemed to be very agreeable and full of 
kindness. I was so far deceived as to 
take off my cloke, and make signs to 
convince him of his error in having 
taken me for a deer. 

Had I remained much longer in the 
wood, I certainly should have experi- 
enced a derangement of intellect, which 
perhaps would have terminated in real 
madness. My brain seemed on fire ; my 
ears rang, and sparkles danced before 
my eyes ; my feet were numbed, my 



hands were in the same condition, iny 
whole frame shivered, and my pulse was 
irregular. 

I felt myself ill, very ill. — Shall I say 
what now supported me ? My wife, my 
angelic wife. The dear name of my 
Amelia, invoked in a feeble tone, roused 
the last remains of my strength, and 
called forth my drooping courage. But 
this talisman operated only upon the 
mind ; exhausted nature called for other 
sustenance. 

/ It was now Saturday-evening. At 
the post-house on the other side Mit- 
tau, I had taken a slice of bread and but- 
ter with a dish of coffee ; the next day 
a biscuit ; on Friday three spoonfuls of 
soup ; besides this, I had not tasted a 
single morsel, and the drops of water 
were all I had swallowed the whole of 
the present day. I was aware that unless 
I obtained food I she . die in 



124 

the woods or on the highway. \ What 
a useless thing is money ! I had more 
than seven hundred roubles about me, 
yet I was unable to procure a morsel of 
bread<Nor was this all ; sleep had long 
been a stranger to my eyes ; for the 
short slumber that stole upon me in the 
carriage could not be called repose. 

When it grew darker, a woodcock 
flew over my head.. Its hoarse and brawl- 
ing cry renewed the sensations of my 
pastimes in happier days. It had been 
a favourite sport with me when I re- 
sided in Livonia, to pass the fine even- 
ings in the spring in pursuit of this bird 
of passage, which, it is well known, is 
very scarce in Germany. At the recollec- 
tion of this spot, a thousand other ideas 
arose in my mind with tormenting of- 
ficiousness. I sent a heavy sigh after the 
bird : it was its hour of quitting the 
wood, and it warned me likewise to 
leave it. 



I2 5 

Being desirous to take a short rout in 
order to regain the highway, I travers- 
ed one of those roads which are made 
in- forests for the purpose of drawing 
away the fallen timber. Just as I arrived 
there some boors were driving their 
empty carts along at full trot. Not being 
able to make my retreat, I had instantly 
recourse to my usual expedient. I lay flat 
on the ground, trusting myself wholly 
to chance. The thicket where I was con- 
cealed was very bare ; I had neverthe- 
less the good fortune not to be perceived. 
Scarcely were they gone, when I conti- 
nued my route in the direction I had at 
first taken. I quickly observed, how- 
ever, that instead of coming to the end 
of the wood, I was travelling farther in- 
to it, and the noise which I had taken 
for the waters of the Duna, was nothing 
but the effect of the wind upon the trees, 
which was heard everywhere round. — 



126 

What was now to be done ? Return to 
the marshes ? Could I return in the dark? 
Hunger, thirst, cold and fatigue would 
have reduced me to my last gasp, and 
my body left to the mercy of the wolves, 
would become their prey* I then de- 
termined to seek for the cart-road I had 
observed, and although the task was 
extremely difficult, in a quarter of an 
hour I discovered it. 

I walked fast along this road, but I be- 
gan to think that it led me too much on 
one side. Of this I was certain, when 
coming into the highway, I read on the 
finger-post * that I was still within three 
verstes of the spot where I had left my 
travelling companions. 

I had yet nearly three German miles 



* All over Russia posts are erected, which from 
verste to verste indicate the distance of the adja- 
cent towns. 



.127 

to walk before I could reach Kokenhu- 
sen ; a dreadful distance for a man in 
my situation. I first approached the 
Duna, and scooped some water in the 
brim of my hat to slake the burning 
thirst under which I laboured, and I 
quickly felt the bad effects of this in a 
violent fit of the cholic. My throat 
likewise was so much parched and swel- 
led, that I could scarcely swallow. Hop- 
ing, however, that exercise would miti- 
gate my pain, I began to proceed for- 
wards, though the road was still fre- 
quented by passengers. At one time I 
was obliged to slip suddenly behind a 
hedge to screen myself from an unlucky 
rencounter ; at another to take a circui- 
tous way to avoid a noisy public house. 
Sometimes a watch-dog would bark at a 
distance, and I was under the necessity 
of evading his pursuit as quicki > as pos- 
sible j for should he not be satisfied with 



128 

merely barking or howling at me, I had 
nothing to defend myself with, except 
a small pair of scissars. At length I 
thought to avoid all these accidents by 
stealing along the banks of the Duna, 
but I found the river full of rafts, with 
fires burning and men walking back- 
wards and forwards upon them. It was 
then expedient to change my course, 
sometimes following the river, at others 
crossing the underwood, or regaining 
the high road, as occasion served. It 
was by straggling along in this manner 
that I at last arrived at Stockmannshof, 
at eleven o'clock at night. 

The castle inhabited bv Chamberlain 
de Beyer is situated on a hill ; a garden 
rising in terraces extends to the public 
road, and is terminated by an iron gate. 

I observed several lights still burning 
in the castle, but they began gradually 
to disappear, and shortly none were vi- 



129 

sible, except in the lower story. I put 
my finger upon the latch of the gate and 
found it was not locked. I then began 
to reflect on what was to be done. I 
could not reach Kokenhusen, for I al- 
ready staggered like a man in liquor, 
and was too much exhausted to walk 
any further. My colic too still conti- 
nued to torment me, and my throat be- 
came more parched than ever. I entered 
the garden therefore, determined to pro- 
ceed to the house : a figure in white stood 
at some little distance before me. How 
fortunate, said I to myself, should this 
prove to be a female ! Women are com- 
passionate creatures ; ever ready to pity 
and sooth distress of every description : 
I will approach her. I proceeded, and 
discovered that it was merely a statue 
of Neptune placed in the centre of a small 
pond. 

VOL. I. I 



13* 

I was now as much embarrassed as 
ever, and the reflections I had made in 
the wood came again into my mind ; I 
hastily left this spot and continued my 
route. My mind supported my body 
for a considerable time ; but having pro- 
ceeded about half a verste, the wants of 
the latter prevailed. Worn out with 
hunger, fatigue and pain, I sunk down 
upon the sand, a victim of the most 
gloomy despair, I am compelled to con- 
fess, that at this moment the idea of 
suicide, for the first time in my life, 
suggested itself, and if, instead of the 
small pair of scissars, I had then pos- 
sesed a dagger I commonly travel with, 
I should certainly haveusedit to put an 
end to my existence. Happily, however, 
I had left it at Mittau with my -wife ; 
for as I imagined that I was only going 
to Petersburg, I did not like to have it 
about me. This weapon, which I only 



131 

carried for the purpose of defence, in 
case of being attacked by a malicious 
dog, in any of my accustomed walks 
might have had a suspicious appearance 
there. It was out of precaution, there- 
fore, that I left it with my wife, and I 
shall ever bless that act of prudence : 
" For a wise man," says Seneca, " ought 
" not to hasten the day of his death, 
" however strongly he may be impel- 
" led : he should retire, and not run 
" away." 

How often does our fate depend on 
trifles ! If I had taken the bread which 
lay on the table with me, the morning 
of my escape from the inn, that alone 
would have supported nature, and I 
could have persevered in my plan. I 
had now only two expedients to adopt ; 
either to remain at Stockmannshof, or 
return to the woods and remain there 
till next evening. The latter seemed by 



! 3 2 

no means adviseable, as my strength 
could not hold out during another day 
without nourishment. I determined, 
therefore, upon going back to the castle, 
and accordingly, after resting myself a 
little, I returned to the garden gate. 
/ The lights in the lower story remained 
as before. I crossed the garden and came 
to a second gate, which opened to a pas- 
sage between the house and the terraces. 
I passed through it, for it was unlocked, 
and I found myself within three paces of 
the steps of the castle. I ascended them, 
a light shone through the window, and 
I perceived three young chambermaids 
making their beds. I stretched forth 
my hand several times to tap at the win- 
dow, and as often drew it back ; but 
overcome by the urgency of my situa- 
tion, I at length knocked* 

One of the young women came out 
with a light in her hand, and asked me 



m 

what I wanted. I intreated her in i 
hoarse voice to give me a morsel of 
bread. She looked at me with great 
surprize ; she was a handsome girl, and 
her countenance bespoke much goodness 
of heart ; but my visage, and indeed 
my whole appearance caused her to pause 
a little at my request. " It is too late/' 
said she, " our master is gone to bed, 
" and so are the servants." " Pity me, 
" my lovely girl," I rejoined, " I have 
" eat nothing the whole day ; for hea- 
" ven's sake pity me." " My God !" 
said she, " in the forest, and during 
" such weather ! How happened this ?" 
She still kept looking at me from head 
to foot, and drew back a little. I gues- 
sed her thoughts : " Do not be afraid, 
" my dear pretty young woman ; I am 
" no thief, nor even a common beggar ; 
" (I then shewed her my purse, and my 
" gold watch-chain.) I have money 



*34 

" enough, but my case is much to be 
" pitied. My dear girl, I beg you'll tell 
" me, if I can speak a word with the 
" chamberlain." 

" The chamberlain is asleep." 

" Where is M. de Lowenstern ?" 

" He is at Kokenhusen, and returns 
" to-morrow." 

" And Madame de Lowenstern and 
" the children r" 

u They are above." 

" And Mademoiselle de Plater ?" 

" She is with them." 

This Mademoiselle de Plater was a 
young and very amiable person, a friend 
of the family, whom I had seen in Sax- 
ony. " Cannot you awake her ?" 

" I dare not." 

As I pressed her with great earnest* 
ness, she at length advised me to go to 
the Secretary's apartment, and wait 
there till morning. During this conver- 



*35 

sation, I had drawn her by degrees into 
her own room, and the urgency of my 
situation having overcome all thought of 
ceremony, I firmly declared that I would 
not stir from thence, but was determin- 
ed to throw myself upon the sofa before 
me. This declaration embarrassed the 
young woman very much. 

Heaven knows how this scene would 
have ended, had not the Chamberlain 
and his lady, who slept near at hand, 
been aw r akened bv the noise which we 
made. Madame de Bayer rung for her 
maid ; I gave her the billet I had scrawl- 
ed in the wood, and entreated her to 
deliver it to her master, and then, trem- 
bling with anxiety for the result, I threw 
myself on the sofa. 

The girl returned ; she requested me 

' to wait a little ; that I should soon have 

some refreshment, and that her master 

was himself coming to me. 1 then re- 



i 3 6 

maincd a few moments alone ; moments 
not to be measured by the common 
mode of calculating time ! 

The Chamberlain arrived : He was a 
man advanced in years, and kindness 
was imprinted on his countenance. He 
appeared to be under some embarrass- 
ment ; but at this moment how great 
w r as my own. I spoke with hesitation, 
and expressed myself in the most inco- 
herent manner ; but my note had given 
him sufficient information. He begged 
I would make myself perfectly easy, that 
I would first think about taking some 
nourishment, and that he would then 
see what could be done for me. Ma- 
dame de Bayer now appeared. I recog- 
nized the features of her amiable daugh- 
ter, and took courage. I related in a 
few words my extraordinary adven- 
tures. She appeared affected, but I could 
still perceive, that neither she nor the 



! 



l 37 

Chamberlain were satisfied that I was 
perfectly innocent. And how, indeed, 
could intelligent people like them, ha- 
bituated to the regular order of the laws, 
believe that such official proceedings 
could have taken place without very se- 
rious reasons ? 

In the mean time several dishes were 
set before me. After a slight refreshment 
I touched upon the essential object of my 
visit, and solicited protection and suc- 
cour. I begged the Chamberlain would 
conceal me at one of his country seats. 
At this proposal I could perceive that 
M. de Bayer struggled with his feelings, 
and that the contest was about to ter- 
minate in my favour. Hope already 
sparkled in the eyes of his lady, when a 
man entered the room, of whom, even 
at this moment, I cannot think without 
an involuntary emotion of aversion and 
disgust. 



i 3 8 

" Sir, 5 ' said the Chamberlain, " you 
here see a good friend of mine, M. Pros- 
tenius,* of Riga." We saluted each 
other : he pretended to have seen me 
before ; but I had not the least recollec- 
tion of his person. He was a weil-look- 
ing man, of a pleasing and insinuating 
countenance, and his deportment was 
extremely polite. He was one of that 
description of people, who can say un- 
gracious and even rude things with the 
same tone of voice, and with as much 
ease as usually accompany the commu- 
nication of the most agreeable intelli- 
gence. From him I learnt, that the 
Counsellor had been at the castle, that 
he had dined there, had betrayed great 
uneasiness of mind, alarmed the whole 
village, and had dispatched people to 
pursue me ; and that, after taking these 

* That was not his name, as I have since learnt ; 
but why name him at all ? 



*59 

measures, he had set off for Riga, at 
which place he probably still remained. 
M. Prostenius took upon himself to 
assert, that my plan was impracticable, 
even before he had heard the whole of 
it ; adding, that it would expose them 
all to danger, and that it was impossible 
to serve me. " But you have gained 
time," continued he, " by your flight ; 
you will be conducted to Riga ; the Go- 
vernor, who is a stranger to the business, 
must report your conduct ; and before 
any answer can arrive, some changes 
may take place." I replied, " that from 
the manner in which I had been already 
treated, I could not expect any thing in 
my favour." The Chamberlain, who 
had been prevented from speaking by M. 
Prostenius, and whose opinions the lat- 
ter had in a great measure influenced, 
now told me, by way of consolation, that 
I might write from hence to the Empe- 



140 

ror. " May I," exclaimed I. — " Cer- 
tainly ; and I will send the letter through 
the hands of General de Rehbinder, who 
at this moment is commandant at Peters- 
burg/' 

I thanked him for all his goodness. 
The amiable Prostenius would fain have 
made a reply for him; he remained 
however silent. 

M. Prostenius was now pleased to 
ask me, " Why I feared a journey to 
Tobolsk ?"■ 

I eyed him, and smiled : " Why do I 
fear it?" — " Yes:" said he, " many wor- 
thy people are sent thither. You will 
never be in want of good company." — 
" My company. Sir, is my family." 

" In what manner are you taken 
there ? — I have a Senate-courier and an 
Aulic-counselior with me." 

And no guards — no soldiers ?" 

S 1 



u 



" No; no guards." 



141 

cc Well, then, what can be more ho- 
nourable ?" And as he did not per- 
ceive that I was at all elated with these 
marks of honour, he added : " Come, 
come, Sir, you must submit with a good 
grace ; you are a philosopher/' 

" I am a husband and a father " said I. 
The little man then simpered : a tear 
glistened in the eye of Madame de Bayer. 
The Chamberlain observed that the hour 
was very late : " Retire to rest," said 
he, " and gain strength to set off to- 
morrow for Riga." 

I know not why this expected jour- 
ney to Riga gave me no pain. Was it 
because it brought, me nearer to my 
wife and children ? For, in fact, it was 
the same thing whether I fell into the 
hands of the Counsellor at Riga, or any 
where else. 

" In the common" continued the Cham- 
berlain, " you will find a bed ; go and 



142 

take some rest. 55 In this country they 
give that name to a pavilion detached 
from the house, which is occupied by the 
preceptor, the secretary, and others of 
that class ; and it is likewise furnished 
wkh beds for the reception of strangers. 

As I was leaving the castle to go to 
the common, five or six peasants suddenly 
appeared, and accompanied me thither. 
I imagined mere curiosity had brought 
them together, not conceiving that the 
influence of M. Prostenius could have 
induced a worthy gentleman to have 
converted an apartment, hitherto sacred 
to hospitality., into a state prison. 

On entering the room I found several 
people in bed, some of whom were 
asleep. I took no notice of them ; but 
I observed the people on the outside 
were closing the shutters. This, as I 
supposed, was a common custom ; but, 
as I do not like to be thus enclosed when 



H3 

I sleep, I begged that they might be left 
open. My request was not listened to : 
perhaps they were determined that I 
should not make a second escape. 

Shall I here declare my sentiments ? 
I affirm, upon my honour, that no idea 
of another flight entered my head. I 
likewise declare, in the same solemn 
manner, that had I been in M. de Bayer's 
place, and, like him, performing the du- 
ties of a good subject, I should not have 
carried my precautions so far. Admit- 
ting that the Counsellor could have re- 
ferred to superior orders, which obliged 
every one to secure my person w 7 herever 
I should be found, (which I doubt hav- 
ing been the case,* as he had only a post- 
billet about him, in which my name was 
not inserted) it would have been suffi- 
cient to have placed two centinels upon 

* He had shewn a sufficient authority. 



144 

me ; one at the door, and another at 
the window. Had I even succeeded in 
eluding or bribing my guards, M. de 
Bayer would not have been any way re- 
sponsible ; he could not have been re- 
quired to be provided with chains and 
bolts for the purpose of securing state 
prisoners. Ah ! Prostenius, Prostenins ! 
most assuredly this was thy work ; 
thou wouldst fain have made #ny cham- 
ber as gloomy as was thy merciless 
heart. The extreme fatigue under which 
I laboured soon threw me into a slum- 
ber, which, though broken, lasted at in- 
tervals till five o'clock. 

When I awoke, my first care was to 
write to the Emperor. I dressed myself 
and sat down to a table, on which I 
found all that was necessary for that 
purpose, and I penned, with great rapi- 
dity, what my heart, my innocence, and 
my indignation dictated. Breakfast was 



*45 

brought in ; my fellow-lodgers had al- 
ready risen unobserved by me. Hav- 
ing finished my letter to the Emperor, I 
wrote another to Count de Pahlen, the 
Emperor's favourite, a third to Count de 
Cobenzel, and a fourth to my dear wife. 
I had begun a fifth, when the gentle M. 
Prostenius came into the room, and in a 
soft tone of voice informed me, that 
the measures suggested the preceding 
night could not be put in practice, as 
.the Counsellor himself had just made 
his appearance at the castle. 
/ " I am then to be given up," said I. 
* He answered with a shrug of his shoul- 
ders, " What can be done ? Even the 
letter to the Emperor cannot now be 
sent to General de Rehbinder ; when 
M. de Bayer shall have reflected on this, 
he will be convinced it is impracticable. — 
" He promised me without solicitation, 
and repeated that promise several times.* 

VOL. J. K 



146 

" He would bring himself into trouble; 
and therefore that letter must be sent to 
the Governor of Riga." 

" And the others !" 

" That to your lady must likewise 
pass through his hands. As to the rest, 
I would advise you to leave them where 
they are." On saying this, he took up 
the letters I had written to the Emperor 
and my wife. What became of them I 
am still unable to say. I suppose they 
have been delivered ; but such is the ser- 
vile fear which now takes possession of 
the heart of every man in office, that I 
should not be at all surprised to find they 
were suppressed.* Perhaps their sup- 
pression may prove a fortunate circum- 
stance ; and the hard-hearted M. Pros- 
tenius may have done me a service. 

* It will be seen in the sequel in what a noble 
teianner the Governor of Riga acted on this occasion. 



The letter to the Emperor was written 
with too much vehemence. I insisted 
much on my rights; on the imperial 
passport; and on my innocence. The 
perusal of it must have r 
Emperor dissatisfied with himself, and 
all his displeasure would have fallen 
upon me. Besides, he would have heard 
of my escape, which he must have con- 
sidered as rebellion against his com- 
mands, and as an act highly deserving 
of punishment. Fart of my letter ran 
thus : 

" The Governor of Courland inform - 
" ed me, in the name of your Majesty, 
" that I was going to Petersburg, yet I 
u discovered that a certain person was 
" conducting me to Siberia : I did not 
" know this person, and he shewed me 
" no order on the part of your Majesty* 
" Which of the two am I to believe I 
" the Governor or this man ?" 



148 

In a word, the affair was intricate and 
obscure, and my application could cer- 
tainly have produced no good effect ; it 
would rather have exasperated the Em- 
peror, and I have more than once wish- 
ed that I had never written the letter. 
It was the same with regard to the lines 
I intended for my wife : I had described 
my situation in the woods, and had 
spoken of my situation as a thing which 
I considered would last for life. This 
imprudent letter might have been of 
fatal consequence to her, had she re- 
ceived it without due preparation. Once 
more I thank the spruce little man ; he 
has perhaps, without knowing it, been 
the means of preserving the dearest ob- 
ject I have in the wiioie wo^ld. 

My letters to Count de* Fahlen and 
Count de Cobenzel remained in my pos- 
session. 

Soon after I found myself alone for a 



149 \ 

moment with a young man who had 
slept in the same room with me, and in 
whose countenance I could read benevo- 
lence and compassion. " If, (said I to 
him, " you have a feeling heart, send oft 
these letters." He hesitated, and ap- 
peared somewhat alarmed. " They are 
open," continued I; " peruse their harm- 
less contents, and seal them yourself." 
This he promised to do as soon as the 
present tumult should be subsided. Has 
he kept his word ? I know not. Have 
my letters produced any effect ? Of that 
too I am ignorant, having heard nothing 
on the subject.* 

A youth of about eighteen or twenty 
years of age now came into the room, 
and I took him for young De Lowen- 
stern. He hastily removed all the writ- 

* These circumstances will be cleared up in the 
Sequel. 



150 

ing implements, as he said, the Coun- 
sellor was that instant approaching the* 
room. He politely asked me if I stood 
in need of anything for my journey; 
and I availed myself of his obliging offer 
so for as to request a little cream of tar- 
tar* I now beheld my charming com- 
panions again! The Counsellor** saluted 
me with his accustomed wrinkles, but 
did not utter a single word of reproach. 
I told him, in the best manner I could, 
that he must pardon my conduct, as I 
had naturally been inclined to believe the 
Governor of Courland rather than him. 
He appeared satisfied with my apologies, 
and threw all the blame on the ill-timed 
humanity of the former. I saw him 
distribute a hundred roubles among the 
peasants who had mounted guard over 
me, and I took that opportunity to 
observe, that if he imagined those 
boors had taken me, he was much mis- 



*5* 

taken, for that I had come and surren- 
dered myself here of my own accord. 
He did not condescend to make me any 
answer, but, heaving a deep sigh, con- 
tinued to distribute the roubles. He 
then went out to hasten the preparation 
for our departure, upon which the young 
woman who admitted me into the castle 
the preceding night, came into the room, 
and, advancing in a timid manner, whis- 
pered one of the persons present ; and 
when all had retired, she took the ad- 
vantage of their absence to present me 
with a small linen purse, to which some 
pieces of tape were sewed. " This con- 
tains a hundred roubles, (said she) which 
my mistress has sent you, Sir;* you will 
stand in need of them, for I know vour 
money will immediately be taken from 
you : fasten it quickly about your waist." 
She then turned awav. 



I then believed it came from Madame de Bayer. 



*5 2 

I did not rightly understand her 
meaning: however I concealed the purse 
as I had been directed ; and scarcely had 
I done so, when the Counsellor came 
into the room. 

Noble woman, whom my misfortunes 
had thus affected ! I still preserve this 
purse unviolated; it is a sweet remem- 
brancer of your humanity! Whenever 
I look at it, tears rush into my eyes. 
With a mingled sensation of pleasure 
and pain, I recollect, that in the most 
afflicting moment of. my life, a feeling 
heart participated in my sorrow. Ex- 
treme indeed must be the distress that 
compels me to open this sacred purse. 
I have several times been reduced to 
great want since I received it, have de-* 
nied myself many things that would 
have been of much use to me, because 
I never could prevail on myself to touch 
this hallowed store : it is a relic, the be- 



*53 

iiediction of a good woman accompanies 
it, and I do not renounce the hope of 
one day being able to return it into her 
hands, which I will bathe with tears of 
gratitude. 

The moment of separation being ar- 
rived, young De Lowe j stern brought 
me some cream of tartar., a bed-gown 
lined with fur, a clo :h mantle with large 
sleeves, two cotton night-caps, a pair of 
boots, and several other things. I em- 
braced him, and requested him to in* 
form my wife of my situation. He so- 
lemnly promised me to do so, and the 
tears which ran down his cheek are my 
vouchers that he has kept his word. He 
then, with all that keen sensibility, all 
that candour which characterizes the 
early stage of life, and with ail the il- 
lusive confidence .vhichit inspires, took 
the Counsellor by the hand, and intreat- 
ed him to take care of my health, and 



*54 

to overlook my fault. The Counsellor 
replied with the same cold politeness 
which he had before shewn to my wife. 
The chambermaid stood at the window 
and wept. Prostenius had finished his 
task, and was no longer visible, at least 
I did not observe him ; nor did I again 
see either the master or mistress of 
the house. We repaired to an open cart 
which stood before the inn, for my car- 
riage had been left at the post-house. I 
was put into the cart, with all my things, 
exposed to the observation of the mul- 
titude, and to the pity of a few. The 
Counsellor placed himself at my side, 
the Courier behind me, and in an hour 
after we alighted at the inn where we 
had slept. 

Thus terminated the unfortunate at- 
tempt to make my escape, which certain- 
ly was far from being a blameable mea- 
sure, in whatever point of view it may 



1 - - 



be considered. While I imagined I wash 
travelling to Petersburg, to undergo an 
examination there, it was a duty I owed 
myself to submit, and had I in such case 
attempted to escape, my innocence would 
have been justly suspected. The existing 
state of affairs justified the Emperor in 
employing all possible means of precau- 
tion to prevent civil disorders, and I re- 
spect the rights of Sovereign s^ As soon, 
however, as I was convinced that neither 
papers nor innocence were to be taken 
into consideration, but on the contrary, 
that the most severe treatment would 
precede any examination, what law, hu- 
man or divine, required that I should 
remain a prisoner ? 

The corpulent mistress of the post- 
house felt great delight at seeing me re- 
taken : she told the Counsellor that she 
expected every moment a band of sol- 
diers she had sent for from a neighbour- 



i 5 6 

ing barrack, and advised him, in future, 
to be provided with guards wherever 
we passed the night. One of the horses 
that had been employed in the pursuit of 
me, being almost dead through fatigue, 
she immediately perceived it, and, vent- 
ing her ill-humour upon me, loaded 
me with the grossest abuse. At ano- 
ther time I might have been offended 
at this, but it was now of no more con- 
sequence than the sting of a gnat to a 
man just taken off the rack. J answered 
her with a sneering smile, which threw 
her into a still greater passion, and I 
really believe that when she had ex- 
hausted all her abusive epithets, she 
would have gratified her anger by beat- 
ing me, had not the Counsellor inter- 
posed. This noise, however, drew many 
people to the spot, and at least thirty 
gaping boors filled the roon: with their 
nauseous odouxv The Counsellor drove 



*57 

them all out, and desired the mistress of 
the house to leave him alone with me. 
I was rather confounded, though no 
longer alarmed, yet I soon began to feel 
that resolution, which despair is apt to 
inspire. 

When we were alone, the Counsellor 
politely said to me: "You must not 
take it amiss, Sir, that I shall now have 
recourse to more severe measures. " The 
idea of fetters instantly came into my 
head ; and, growing quite wild with an- 
guish, I laid hold of my scissars, with 
the design of putting an end to my life : 
but he quickly explained. I had, as has 
been already mentioned, a little box 
stored with several useful things ; he 
requested the key of this box, in order 
to deposit in it the money I had about 
me, promising, at the same time, to sup- 
ply me out of it as often as I should have 
occasion. 



i 5 8 

Finding this was all he required, I sub- 
mitted without saying a word. I had 
been already accustomed to turn my 
pockets inside out ; and whatever they 
now contained, keys, money, scissars, 
pencils, scraps of paper, and even my 
watch, I delivered up, with a very good 
grace. The Counsellor himself conde- 
scended to search my pockets with his 
own hands, to see if I had really given 
every thing up, and he then locked the 
box. 

The open carriage was changed for 
my own, and we immediately departed. 
I shall not attempt to describe the state 
of my mind as we drove along. Let it 
suffice to observe, that I could neither 
eat nor sleep, and if I did not entirely 
lose my senses, it is solely attributable 
to the jolting of the vehicle. Every time 
we stopped to change horses, my head 
grew giddy j I was anxious to get on 



again, and delighted when we came to 
a hard or uneven road, or a paved cause- 
way. During the first two days of the 
route, I did not utter half a dozen words. 
Whenever any thing was offered to me, 
" No !" was my answer. With wild and 
fixed eyes I looked at the country before 
me, without seeing it. Wind or rain, 
heat or cold 5 were alike unfelt by me, 
and I was driven to such a state of dis- 
traction, that I could no longer get in 
and out of the carriage without assist- 
ance. If by chance I met with a looking- 
glass, the sight of my haggard counte- 
nance made me start backwards.* 



* I must here relate an anecdote. At the 
first dinner-hour after my having been retaken, we 
arrived at a small town, the name of which I do 
not remember, but I only know it belonged to a 
certain Staroste de Korf, who inhabited an antique 
castle there. Though we did not change horses, 
yet we stopped in the castle-yard, He came down 



i6o 

The Counsellor seemed to be concern- 
ed at my situation. With him, however, 
it was no affair of compassion, but only 
the apprehension of not being able to 
execute his honourable commission to 

and pressed the Counsellor to stay and do him the 
favour to dine with him, ordered the Courier to be 
taken good care of, but said not a word to me, nor 
sent me any thing to eat or drink. He had taken 
care, however, that I should be well guarded, for 
he had ordered the gates to be shut, and a crowd 
of people to be stationed round my carnage, who 
kept staring me in the face, and sneering at my 
situation. In this manner I remained the object 
of their impertinence for a whole hour. Afterwards 
the Staroste re-conducted his well- replenished guests 
to the carriage. In spite of ail this w T ant of decency 
with regard to me, the extreme thirst I suffered 
mastered my stubborn heart; I asked for some- 
thing to drink, and a glass of beer was brought me. 
I relate this anecdote merely because I have since 
heard at Ri°:a that M. de Korf had boasted of hav- 
ing entertained me at his table, and of having treat- 
ed me in general with the most polite attention. 



i6i 

its full extent, which probably would 
have been considered as a crime. He 
exerted himself to pacify me ; both he 
and the Courier represented Tobolsk as 
the finest city in the universe, and the 
manner of living there as very gay and 
agreeable. The strongest recommenda- 
tion of Tobolsk, in the opinion of the 
Courier, was the goodness and low price 
of provisions of all kinds. u What fish l" 
said he " what fish ! for ten kopeks you 
may buy the finest esierlets, for which 
the dainty people of Petersburg would 
be glad to pay ten roubles ; and the ce- 
ierinoS) what ceierinos! Meat, bread, bran- 
dy, all to be had in the greatest plenty ? 3 
To this the Counsellor added some par- 
ticular which to me were far more in- 
teresting. m The moment you arrive 
there," said he, " you will be free, per- 
fectly free; you may run about, you 
may go where you please ; you may 

VOL. I. L 



l62 

hunt, shoot, ramble over the country, 
and make, your own acquaintances. You 
will be allowed to write to the Emperor, 
to your lady, to your friends ; you 
may .have servants, and whatever will 
afford you pleasure : in a word, you 
ltiay live according to your fancy. At 
Tobolsk, too, there are balls, masque- 
rades, and a good play-house." At the 
word play-house I smiled in spite of my- 
self. I only asked him, if he could en- 
gage that my correspondence^ would not 
be stopped. He gave me his word it 
would not, and this assertion revived 
my hopes. But, said I to myself, the 
Emperor, who sends me to Tobolsk, 
might likewise chuse to send me to Ir- 
kutzk, which lies three thousand verstes 
beyond it. Endeavouring to guess at 
the real motives of my arrest, I had re- 
collected that ten years ago, while I was 
printing Count Benjow T sky, the late Em- 



163 

press wrote to Revel, to the Governor 
of that place, and charged him to ask 
me, without mentioning that it was her 
Majesty's order, what view I had had in 
writing that play. I naturally replied, 
that the history of Count Benjowsky 
had struck me as a fit subject for the 
drama; and that it had even been adopt- 
ed before I attempted it by M. Vulpius. 
Nothing more was said on the subject ; 
that great Princess, as it may easily be 
imagined, thought no more of the mat- 
ter. 

The Emperor, thought I, offended at 
the subject of this piece, is perhaps de- 
termined to inflict the same kind of pu- 
nishment on me as I have described in 
the case of the exile : should it be so, I 
shall be sent to Kamtschatka, which lies 
six thousand verstes from Irkutzk. 

The Counsellor swore by all the saints 
that he would allow- himself to be called 



164 

the greatest rogue in the universe, if he 
was taking me to any other place than 
Tobolsk. " But," said I, " how do you 
know this ? Your orders are sealed up ; 
are you acquainted with their contents?" 
He gave me to understand that they had 
been transcribed by himself; " besides," 
added he, " such a journey would not 
be divided into two parts : had you been 
destined for Irkutzk, I should have re- 
ceived orders to have taken you there, 
as I have formerly received in the case 
of several exiles ; but my order and my 
post-billet mention no other place than 
Tobolsk. You may make yourself per- 
fectly easy on that head. You may well 
suppose that it would ill become the dig- 
nity of the Emperor to parcel out his or- 
ders for the purpose of tormenting pri- 
soners, and procuring them new suffer- 
ings." The reader will hereafter see 
what confidence I ought to have placed 
in the Counsellor. 



i6 5 

But what calmed my mind more than 
the hopes of remaining at Tobolsk, was 
an incident the Counsellor now related. 
" A year ago, 55 said he, " I was conduct- 
ing a woman this way; we had already 
arrived near Casan, when a courier over- 
took us, and presented ma with an or- 
der directing me to return with her im- 
mediately. Her case had been re-exa- 
mined, and other information had been 
received, by which she was found to have 
been innocent. 55 Scarcely had the Coun- 
sellor related this anecdote, than I began 
to apply the adventure of the woman to 
my own situation. 

" I, then, as well as she, 55 said I, c: may 
be found innocent. 55 

" Of that, 55 replied he, " there can be 
no doubt. 55 

u And what did the woman say? 
What became of her r 55 

" She was very happy, as you may 



i66 

well think; she gave me her gold 
watch." 

This event struck my imagination very 
forcibly, and I cannot describe with what 
magic it impressed my whole soul. I 
had incessantly the image of this woman 
before my eyes, joining her hands toge- 
ther, and lifting them up to heaven, 
shedding tears of joy, and eagerly tak- 
ing her watch from her side ; I followed 
her carriage as it was returning back, 
felt what she must feel as she approach- 
ed her home ; I saw her discover her 
mansion, observed her children looking 
out at the window ; saw her then drive 
up to the door, throw herself out of the 
carriage, and faint with delight in their 
arms. Yes, this coarse-minded man had, 
without being aware of it, found out the 
true remedy for my affliction ; it was 
the balm that was best adapted to heal 
the deep wounds of my soul. 



i6; 

From the time I received this cheering 
information, 1 was every moment ex- 
pecting the arrival of a courier. As 
soon as I heard the bells* sound behind 
us, my heart began to flutter in the most 
violent manner. My papers, thought 
I, have been examined, and I am found 
innocent : an order has been instantly 
issued, a courier on horseback has been 
dispatched after me, and he will render 
me the most happy of men. But I for- 
got, or strove to forget, that my papers 
were not taken at all into consideration 
in this affair. I still recurred to the idea 
of the kind courier pushing on his horse 
to overtake me ; I calculated how many 
days my papers must be on the road, 
how long a time their examination 
w r ould require, and I could have wished 

* In Russia the post-horses wear bells about 
their necks. 



168 

to have slackened our pace, that the 
courier might the sooner overtake us. 

Three days had passed since we left 
the castle of Stockmannshof, and I now 
strove to eat for the first time. Our 
people had devoured the Bologna sausage, 
and drunk all the Dantzic brandy ; they 
had even swallowed the bread, the but- 
ter, and the cold meat which M. de 
Bayer had ordered to be put into the 
carriage. I wished for some wine and 
coffee j we were not able to procure 
either the one or the other, and I had 
nothing to eat but some eggs. The 
nights were very cold, and the day not 
warm 9 on account of a piercing wind 
that was continually blowing. I was 
desirous to lay the cloke at my feet, 
which had been lately given me ; but 
the Courier had taken possession of it, 
and likewise had put on my boots. I 
forbore, however, to claim any of these 



i6g 

things* as hiy companions made use of 
what belonged to me without the least 
ceremony ; and when they had once ap- 
propriated it, they considered it as a law- 
ful prize. This conduct extended even 
to my purse : on the least thing being 
purchased for me, or any repairs being 
made to the carriage, I produced a note 
of twenty-five roubles ; it was changed, 
and it was not common to return me 
the overplus ; or if I ever obtained any 
thing back, it was only a part. The 
Counsellor at last grew short of money, 
and borrowed of me without ceremony. 
Taking it once into my head to refuse 
him, his whole manner of behaviour be- 
came so much altered, that I was forced 
at length to yield. VI paid every ex- 
pence on the road, and though I had 
taken nothing but bread, milk, and eggs, 
and sometimes a little roast veal, this 
'journey cost me upwards of four hun- 






170 

dred roubles, without reckoning the car- 
riage. I paid for every thing ; these 
fellows bought brandy with my money, 
and never gave any thing to the poor 
peasants in return for the provisions 
which they furnished us : an extortion 
of which these wretched people dared 
not even complain. 

Here I cannot refrain from praising 
that hospitality which prevails among 
the Russian peasantry, and which is still 
more remarkable the further we advance 
into the country. They are all anxious 
to receive strangers, and consider it a 
very great honour done them. They 
set before their guests every thing they 
have, and are extremely delighted to see 
them relish the repast. I shall never 
forget the uneasiness of a female villager 
on seeing us approach, because she had 
no refreshments at hand. She ran about 
the cottage, and exclaimed, with tears 



I 7 I 

in her eyes : '* Here are three good little 
guests, and I have nothing to set before 
them :■? the words, good little guests, 
made me smiled The peasants never de- 
mand any money in return for their 
hospitality ; they refuse to be paid for 
bread, quass, and such things ; and for 
their poultry, cream, and eggs, they are 
always satisfied with whatever price is 
offered for them. As they never re- 
ceive any thing but curses from the sol- 
diers and couriers who call on them^ 
they take care not to acknowledge that 
they have any provisions in the house : 
1 1 am however convinced, that a traveller 
would always find plenty when he ac- 
costs the Russian peasant in a civil man- 
ner. } Whenever we wanted any thing 
out of the common way, I undertook 
the business alone, and promising to pay 
for what we ordered, we were supplied 
with every thing we desired j but the 



172 

manner in which soldiers and couriers 
usually act is extremely tyrannical. 
Where is the desatnick (an officer some- 
what like the mayor or bailiff in Ger- 
many) ? — The desatnick presents himself 
with all humility.—" We want such and 
such things. 5 '—He makes excuses, and 
declares he has none of them. The de- 
predators swear in a horrid manner, and 
threaten to beat him : he then sets out 
in quest of provisions, and if he finds 
any, brings them ; but as he is not to 
, be paid for them, he procures the worst 
that are to be had. Were it not for this 
deeply-rooted abuse, travelling in Rus- 
sia woutd be very agreeable ; for these 
good and hospitable peasants, who are 
so easily won over, are every whereto 
be met with. X A thing of no value, a 
mere trifle, a piece of sugar given to 
their children, makes them instantly 
your friends. In this way I acted during 



*7$ 

the whole journey 5 and I had all the mo- 
thers on my side. I gave the preference 
to children about the size of two of my 
own daughters. Often,' very often, the 
tears came into my eyes : " You have 
certainly children at home, the women 
would say to me." — " Six," replied I, 
with a heavy heart, " and the youngest 
not a year old." Then I was sure to 
read that compassion in their eyes, which 
is so easily understood. I would then 
get into my carriage, and they would 
bless me. 

1 But let me wave these digressions and 
"return to my own story. On the second 
night great precautions were taken to 
prevent the possibility of an escape : 
guards were stationed in the house, the 
window-shutters were fastened, and my 
bed placed near the Counsellor's. The 
Courier slept on the floor, so that I must 
have passed over his body had I endea- 
voured to get away. 



My beard was much grown ; I wish- 
ed to shave myself, but this was not al- 
lowed, and a barber was sent for. In 
vain I urged, that for a long time past I 
had been accustomed to perform this 
operation with my own hands, and that 
if I had any intention to destroy myself, 
I was at liberty to plunge headlong into 
the first river I came to. All this rea- 
soning was without effect : the Coun- 
sellor, however, took advantage of what 
I had said concerning rivers, and when- 
ever we came to one, he placed himself 
between me and the water as a means 
of securing my person. Silly man ! the 
power of thy Emperor does not extend 
so far. We enter into this world by 
one road only, but there are a thousand 
that lead out of it, and no human au- 
thority can hinder me from breaking my 
fetters whenever I desire. I recollect 
reading in Raynal, that the negroes fre- 



m 

quently choke themselves with their 
tongues, which they thrust into their 
throats. Heaven be praised, I shall not 
do this ! A germ of hope still exists in 
my breast ; it may be checked a little, 
but still it may revive again, and produce 
such fruits as shall make me cherish my 
existence ! 

We now arrived at Polosk, the only 
considerable town we had met with since 
we had passed Riga. Here we merely 
changed horses ; but while this was be- 
ing done, the Counsellor went on with 
his task of writing down the report of 
his expedition. At every town he did 
the same, and that induced me to keep 
on good terms with him, and behave to 
him as civilly as I possibly could. I was 
well convinced he would not" insert a 
word of my elopement : the fear of 
losing his noble confidential employment 
of escorting prisoners to Siberia, and of 



176 

Wng deprive^! of the pleasant spectacle 
of their separation from their family 
and friends, and the agreeable sounds 
of their lamentations, prevented him 
from relating that : but it was possible 
he would have written dojvn some little 
details which might have proved injuri- 
ous to me ; and yet, in spite of all my 
complaisance, who knows if he has not 
done this ? I could see, from the man- 
ner he set about this trifling task, that 
he was no adept at his pen. It cost 
him much time to get through a few 
lines, and it was a ludicrous sight to ob- 
serve with what solemnity he would be- 
gin two or three times to scrawl over a 
piece of paper. Our Counsellor, there- 
fore, was fit only for the calling he exer- 
cised* that of dragging condemned peo- 
ple to punishment : and in this he ac- 
quitted him self with much dexterity and 
intelligence, the fruit of the long expe- 



«77 

Hence he had had in this kind of service. 
He had not indeed always filled the of- 
fice in so distinguished a manner as in 
the present case. Hitherto he had been 
nothing more than a mere officer in the 
service of the senate. He was promoted 
to a civil employment, and honoured 
with the title of Aulic counsellor in con- 
sequence of this Siberian expedition, 
to which he had been appointed as my 
conductor. I know not why it was 
judged necessary to appoint an escort 
invested with such a title. "Was it done 
in order to avoid all appearance of sol- 
diers and guards ? Whatever was the 
motive, it is equally vain to guess at it : 
it is however certain, that he performed 
this duty in his capacity of Aulic coun- 
sellor, and he seemed not a little vain of 
the title. 

The title, no doubt, very much in- 
creased the consideration with which I 

VOL. I, M 



i 7 8 

was treated on the way. I was com- 
monly taken for a person of great con- 
sequence, being thus escorted by an 
Aulic counsellor, while men of rank, 
and even general officers, had no other 
escort than a dragoon, and no other car- 
riage than a kibitk : this flattering dis- 
tinction, therefore, was of considerable 
importance to me during the whole 
journey. 

On the road between Polosk and Smo- 
lensk, I was again attacked by violent 
fits of the colic ; and these were accom- 
panied by involuntary tremors, convul- 
sions in all nly limbs, and heats, in my 
head and stomach, which threatened to 
produce speedy suffocation ; these heats 
declared themselves by tension of the 
forehead, sparks of fire in the eyes, and 
a buzzing in the ears. My pulse varied 
every moment ; I lost my appetite and 
could not sleep ; I dreamed even when 



i; 9 

awake, and phantoms were continually 
dancing before my eyes. All my ideas 
were incoherent and obscure : I was al- 
most insensible to every thing rpund 
me ; the remembrance of my wife and 
my children began to lose its charm, 
and the prospect of death its terrors. 

I had no other medicine at hand than 
some neutralized salts, and the cream of 
tartar which had been given me at 
Stockmannshof. The priscriptions which 
I had collected for a considerable time 
past, and which I had obtained from 
some of the most celebrated physicians 
in Germany, such as Zimmermann, 
Selle, Marcard, Gail, Hufeland, &c. were 
sealed up with the rest of my papers ; 
I had in vain petitioned to have them 
restored to me ; they had been perhaps 
taken for cyphered letters belonging to 
some secret correspondence. I was 
therefore without succour, and estperi- 



enced a sort of pleasure in the idea of 
arriving at Smolens! tere I expected 
to procure some relief. In fact. I owed 
my preservation to those soft rays of 
hope which had already begun to gleam 
upon me. 

/ We arrived very late. The Counsel- 
lor, who had now an antipathy to inns, 
had ordered the postilion to drive to 
the post-house ; but there was no room 
for us ; and, as I positively declared I 
would go no farther, he was obliged 
to drive to an inn. That to which we 
drove appeared to be a decent house : 
the host received us with lights in his 
hand, and conducted us up a large stair- 
case into a spacious anti-chamber. I 
imagined, from appearances, that we 
had found a comfortable asylum, but 
when I saw our destined apartment, 
how was I disappointed ! It was a lofty 
garret, the floor of which was ready to 



1*1 

give way under our feet, and the panes 
of glass in the window were broken, 
and all the furniture of the room was an 
old bedstead ; there was not a single 
chair, much less a looking-glass ; and 
the walls fluttered with old ragged ta- 
pestry. 

fl looked round, and but too well 
aware it was in vain to make any com- 
plaint, I asked for a little hay to fill up 
the empty bedstead ; and, as soon as it 
was brought, threw myself upon it with- 
out utterin?: a word. The wind that 
came in through the broken panes 
blew directly upon me. I had no other 
covering but the bed-gown and cloak 
which had been given me ; and the cold 
and the vermin banished repose. 

Day-light began to appear , and I found 
myself in a violent fever; my eyes were 
swelled and inflamed. I waited with 
impatience till the Counsellor awaked. 



J82 

in order to entreat him to procure me a 
physician ; but the hard-hearted wretch 
refused my request. He was of opinion , 
he said, that repose would be of more 
service to me than any thing else, and 
added, that we should halt for a day 
where we now were. The Courier, 
who had but one specific cure for the 
ills both of the body and soul, wisely re- 
commended me to eat and drink as 
much as I could. 

This cruel preceding stung me to the 
quick. I punished my executioner, 
however , with contemptuous silence, and 
I refused to remain there. I declared, 
that if I must die, I would rather die: 
in the fields, and I immediately quitted 
my miserable couch. 

Having expressed a wish for a glass of 
Rhenish as we came along, the Counsellor 
now bought me a bottle ; it cost two 
roubles, and was so bad, that it was ab- 



A 



'83 

solutely thrown away, as my worthy 
companions drank no wine ; brandy 
alone suited their palates. 

Between Smolensk and Moscow, my 
indisposition considerably increased. A 
general torpor pervaded my limbs ; I 
scarcely felt myself alive, and grew blind 
to every thing that surrounded me. To 
have any idea of my condition at that 
time, the reader must conceive himself 
in the situation of a man, who having 
awaked in the midst of darkness, with- 
out any recollection of the place in 
which he was, would fain grope out 
his way, and yet has not the power to 
move. From time to time the image 
of my wife seemed to break thrcv 
this gloom, but only for a moment : it 
was not like a flash of light, but resem- 
bled a soft ray, which reached and pene- 
trated my eyes ; and my eyes alone par- 
ticipated in its lustre. 



184 

When the Counsellor saw that my 
condition became dangerous, he began 
to shew some regard to it. He pro- 
mised that when we arrived at Moscow, 
a physician should attend me. This 
promise made but little impression upon 
my mind ; and during the height of my 
raging fever, if the idea of my wife 
and family had not been ever present to 
my imagination, I should gladly have 
thrown myself into the arms of death, 
with all that eagerness with which we 
embrace a friend, who has been long and 
ardently expected. | "We arrived at Mos- 
cow the 7th of May old style, and were 
driven through a thousand dirty and 
pestiferous streets, to the lodgings of 
Major Maximoff, the comrade and very 
intimate friend of our Counsellor. The 
Major inhabited a miserable hut, con- 
sisting of two small rooms, which his 
Ensign shared with him. The unex- 



1 85 . 

pected arrival of three persons rendered 
the dwelling still more inconvenient ; 
the Major ? however, did the honours of 
his house with a good grace, and strove 
by every means in his power to render 
my situation tolerable/ He gave me some 
soup, and a dish of coffee, and compelled 
me to accept his own bed, which, though 
hard, proved a great comfort to me. 

The Counsellor, imagining that I had 
fallen asleep, began to inform his dear 
comrade of the happy change in his for- 
tune. I felt a real pleasure to hear this 
friend of his lament his being employed 
in such kind of business. Our Coun- 
sellor only smiled, and exhibited his two 
deep wrinkles : he cared indeed but 
little for what people said ; and rising 
from his seat, walked to the stove tp 
evaporate, through the pores of his skin, 
the little portion of sentiment which na- 
ture had bestowed on him. A physician . 



i86 

had been promised me, but I waited for 
him in vain, for in fact he was not to 
come at all. When I requested my exe- 
cutioner to make good his promise, he 
replied, shrugging up his shoulders, that 
it was contrary to his orders to allow 
me any medical assistance. 

u You are instructed then to let me 

- 

die ?" " Ah, you will not die, Sir." I 
remained silent. With Heaven's good 
help, said I to myself, before I die, I will 
make my will, and take leave of my wife. 
This idea took strong hold of my mind, 
yet this favour was likewise denied me. 
It was necessary to procure a public of- 
ficer to authenticate such an act, and how 
could I expect to be indulged with a no- 
tary, when a physician had been denied 
me ? I cut short this difficulty, by beg- 
ging I might be allowed a minister : can 
it be conceived that this too was refused 
me ? It was in vain I represented to our 



i8; 

Counsellor, that besides the welfare of 
my soul, it must naturally be supposed, 
that as a father of a family I had affairs 
to set in order ; that the right of making 
bequests was refused to none ; that the 
Emperor had no design to punish either 
my wife or my children ; all these rea- 
sons were of no avail, I was unable to 
move him. 

" But, for God's sake," continued I, 
" let me write a few wends to my wife ; 
you shall read them yourself ; you have 
already promised her this, and to me you 
have repeated that promise a hundred 
times." He considered a little, and at 
last consented. 

I wrote four or five lines only, and re- 
frained from all observations on my un- 
happy situation. I advised her to arm her- 
self with resolution, to take proper carecf 
her health, for the sake of her children, 
who were thus deprived of their father. 



i88 

I translated my letter to the Counsellor, 
sealed it in his presence, and gave it into 
his hands ; and he begged the Major to 
have it sent to the post-office. This task 
being performed, I grew more com- 
posed ; but I was soon after told by the 
Courier, that my letter had been thrown 
into the fire. I shuddered when I heard 
this. I had indeed always thought meanly 
of the Counsellor, but stung with indig- 
nation at this act of treachery, he now 
became odious to me, and I vowed for 
him eternal hatred and contempt. 

Yet in spite of his vigilance and all 
the eyes that surrounded me, I found 
means to write a second letter. I shall 
not relate what these means were ; I 
should perhaps injure the kind person 
w r ho furnished me with them : May 
God reward him !*i The next evening 



* My wife did not receive the letter. Alexander 
Schulkins, in whom 5 notwithstanding his foolery, I 



189 

'we left Moscow. The weather was very 
fine ; and crossing the city, we passed 
near the public walk, a hirch-tree alley, 
which resembles the Linden at Berlin. 
Here the beau monde resort : it was now 
filled with' equipages, handsome well- 
dressed ladies, and fine gentlemen, not 
one of whom observed the poor Author, 
who perhaps that very evening was to 
contribute to their amusement. How 
do the happy and the unfortunate cross 
each other in this world ? How unusual 
is it for one among; them to concern 
himself about the situation of another, 
while every one, engrossed by his own 
concerns, stumbles indiscriminately on 
the bramble or the iiower. Though the 

could always discover the sentiments of a well- 
meaning man, not easily bribed, Alexander Schul- 
Jdns, I say, who swore by t\cry saint he would for- 
ward this letter, did not perform what he had pro- 
mised. 



190 

sight of this promenade did not excite 
very agreeable sensations in my mind, it 
diverted its attention in some degree 
from the misery of its condition, 

I know not whether I should ascribe the 
recovery of my health to the spring, to 
my perfect resignation, or my total relin- 
quishment of hope, since to cease to hope 
is to procure repose. I had, however, no 
sooner quitted Moscow than I perceived 
I began to gain strength. I also regained 
my fortitude, and often, by way of con- 
solation, I reflected on the cases of seve- 
ral unfortunate persons, whose ills re- 
sembled mine. I thought of Napper 
Tandy, of the exiles at Cayenne ; but 
the former had taken an active part in 
the troubles of his country ; the others, 
more unhappy perhaps than myself, had 
been concerned in the administration of 
a disjointed state ; they were innocent, 
it is true, but they had been punished 



I 9 I 

for the avowal of sentiments openly ex- 
pressed ; but what opinions had I avow- 
ed ? In a word, if their torments have 
surpassed mine, my innocence, at least, 
was more self-evident than theirs. 
) Nothing, alas ! can be more torment- 
ing than the condition of the man who, 
every time he looks into himself, finds 
the consciousness of his own misery as- 
sailing him like the serpents of Lacoon, 
in every possible direction, and tortur- 
ing him under a thousand various shapes. 
Such was my case, isolated as I was in 
my carriage, without a human creature 
near me to offer comfort, to advise me, 
or to listen to my complaints ; with no 
object to divert my attention, but the 
discordant song of Alexander Schiilkins, 
and the heavy sallies of my execrable 
Counsellor, whose jokes were all alike, 
and every moment repeated* If the 
Courier fell asleep, he would tickle his 



192 

nose with the tassel of his cane till he 
had awaked him, and he would then 
rub him between the shoulders with the 
head of it. When we came to a high 
mountain, he w r ould exclaim : Moladinka 
gora ! (the little young mountain). And 
was it but a moderate one, he would cry : 
Wot star-acha ! (see the old mountain). 
A man must, like myself, have fre- 
quented good company, to have any 
idea of the horrid disgust I continually 
felt in the society of these animals. The 
Counsellor has often repeated to me that 
he had five hundred souls in his posses- 
sion ;* but I can safely aver he does not 
carry the half of one about him. The 
only good quality the man had, was in- 
trepidity in the hour of danger. He 
would even tempt the danger he could 

* This is the expression used by the Russians 
when they are speaking of the peasants. 



*93 

have avoided: he never, for. instance, 
would allow the carriage wheels to be 
locked in descending the steepest moun- 
tains. One day our horses took fright 
coming down a hill, at the foot of which 
Was a brook; over -the brook was a 
bridge ; but from the direction the 
horses had taken, it was evident that 
h€y could not reach it/ The wheels 
were within two paces of the brink ; 
the Counsellor, without hesitation, im- 
mediately leaped out ; his foot slipped, 
and he fell down the « declivity ; not- 
withstanding this, he was able to sus- 
tain with his hands the weight of the 
carriage, which was on the point of turn- 
ing over ; the postilion then drove on, 
and it was bv this fool-hardy manoeuvre 
that we escaped being thrown into the 
brook. 

He often gave us proof of similar in • 
trepidity, particularly when we had ri- 

vol. i. n 



194 

vers to cross, which are very dangerous 
in Russia, and remarkably so in the 
spring, when the melting of the snows 
suddenly transforms a brook into a deep 
stream. The method of ferrying over 
them is also ill contrived and dangerous. 
Two boats fastened together by osier 
twigs, and covered with planks, confti- 
tute the only conveyance for all sorts of 
carriages. Two rowers tugging on the 
same side of this flyinfs^bridge, force it 

* O O J 

on, while a pilot at the other end steers 
its course. In this manner the most dif- 
ficult ferries axe crossed* During the 
passage the boats are generally filled with 
water. Frequently a mere raft, con- 
structed in the slightest manner, forms 
the ferry boat, so that the passenger is 
sure to be' drenched to the skin. These 
sort of fiat-bottomed boats are fastened 
fay a rope, and Leld till the current grows 
rapid, when they are let loose, and kept 



*95 ■ 

as much as possible In a diagonal direc- 
tion. 

We 'had to pass the river Sura, near 
the little town of Wasilkoi. When \vc 
arrived at the banks of it, the wind was 
extremely boisterous, and this small 
stream, which, during the summer 
months, is almost dry, was now so 
swoln, that the country, for a German 
mile round it, was flooded, and even the 
tops of the loftiest trees were below the 
water. We waited a considerable time 
before we could venture upon this pas- 
sage. The boat was on the opposite 
side, and more than two hours had 
passed before we were observed : at last 
it came to our assistance. We had 
judged from its slow motion, when 
empty, though furnished with an extra 
number of oars, that with our incum- 
brance it would proceed still more slow- 
ly. The boatmen assured us, the mo- 



196 

merit they arrived, the passage would be 
attended with much danger, and that it 
was absolutely necessary to wait till the 
wind abated. The Counsellor did not 
attend to their advice, but determined, 
at ail events, to embark without loss of 
time. I coincided with him, for I braved 
fortune, and defied its power to render 
my situation more lamentable than it 
already was. The men, however, re- 
fused to take us: it was necessary to 
shew them our orders ■; they then made 
the sign of the cross, and prayed God 
to be their helper. 

At first we proceeded extremely well, 
as we were under the shelter of a neck 
of land, which completely shielded us 
from the tempest : but when we gained 
the middle of the river, we began to be 
much incommoded. The wind blew 
with such violence, and drove us along 
with such rapidity, that, in spite of the 



*97 

efforts of the boatmen, we could no 
longer weather the storm. We then 
drove towards a bush, which appeared 
to be of no very considerable size, and as 
v/e approached it, the affrighted rowers 
strained every nerve to avoid getting 
foul of it. They uttered several loud 
exclamations, but I could not under- 
stand what they said. Well, &aid I to 
myself, we can but run aground, and as 
we are so near the town, we shall soon 
be relieved. Their fears, however, were 
not ill founded, as I soon perceived, 
when on drawing nigh the supposed 
bush, I found it was nothing less than 
the top of a clump of trees, whose roots 
lay deeper under water than our longest 
pole could reach. We now got en- 
tangled among their branches, and were 
in danger of being destroyed. The cords; 
of the raft seemed incapable of resisting 
such violent and repeated shocks* The 



198 

two boats on which it was placed, were 
on the point of breaking asunder, in 
which case the carriage and horses must 
have floated down the stream. But this 
was not the greatest danger that threat- 
ened us ; one of the boats was lifted up 
by the top of a tree, and the other, which 
sunk in proportion, was filling with wa- 
ter very fast. The declivity of the raft 
became so considerable, that our horses 
with difficulty kept their footing, and 
began to be very unruly. We were our- 
selves obliged to hold fast by the wheels 
of the carriage, and were all but too sen- 
sible that this perilous situation must 
soon yield to something still worse. 

The Counsellor himself w^as at length 
convinced of the danger into which his 
rashness had plunged us : he grew pale 
and uneasy; then laying hold of a pole 
with a hook, he grappled the bough of 
a tree ; the Courier did the same, and 



i 9 9 

the boatmen, abandoning both helm and 
oars, followed their example. I remain- 
ed the only inactive person on board, 
and sat wrapped up in my cloke in the 
carriage, perfectly resigned, and awaited 
the worst that could befal me with tran- 
quillity. 

The Counsellor's manoeuvre saved the 
raft from falling to pieces, and at length 
we got clear of the bushes ; but were 
after all unable to make the shore,, 
and our boatmen being quite worn out 
with fatigue, we returned to our former 
station. Fortunately a light barge soon 
came to our assistance ; this being fast- 
ened to the raft, our people again set to 
work, with the addition of four fresh 
hands, and we soon arrived safe on the 
opposite shore. 

Were I disposed to jest, I might say 
with Tamino,* that in going to Siberia, 

* A character in the Enchanted Flute. 



200 



I had been obliged to pass through fire 
and water before I had been initiated in 
the dark mysteries of the country. One 
night we saw a large forest in flames, 
At a distance the spectacle produced a 
grand efFect, but when I found we were 
to pass through it, this new kind of 
danger made me shudder. Some burn- 
ing pines which had fallen one against 
the other 5 actually formed an arch of 
fire in the very middle of the road, 
while others threatened to fall upon our 
heads. We frequently observed trees 
burnt eight or ten feet at bottom, sup- 
ported by the mere thickness of their 
bark, their tops and branches as yet un- 
touched by the flames. We came at 
length to a fir-tree on fire from top to 
bottom, which was overturned across 
the road. At first we hesitated what fo 
do, as it was equally dangerous to pro- 
ceed or to turn back. It was at length 



201 

determined to proceed ; the postilion 
whipped the horses, and drove them 
over the lowest part of the tree* This 
agreeable passage was at least a thousand 
paces in length. 

There is nothing more common in 
travelling through Russia, than to meet 
with these fires. I had before seen se- 
veral, but not so near at hand. The 
natives appear delighted at such acci- 
dents : the country is so encumbered 
with forests, that they take no means 
whatever to extinguish such conflaera- 
tions. 

We proceeded through WoJodimer, 
and Nichnei Novogorod. The reader 
will not expect any description of these 
cities. The sensations with which I was 
oppressed precluded all observation of 
these places, which, however, many tra- 
vellers have already described, and of 
which I could relate nothing new. 



202 

One morning as we were about to de- 
part from a village where we had slept 
the preceding night, we heard the bells 
of some post-horses that were on the 
road coming to Moscow. This agree- 
able sound, which I had in my ears ever 
since I left that city, excited a sudden 
sensation in my mind, and my heart 
beat violently. " A courier !" cried a 
peasant, " a courier !" I instantly ran 
out. The sound drew nearer ; it was 
in truth a courier, but not a courier 
dispatched to announce my recal. An 
unfortunate old man, dressed in a bed- 
gown and night-cap, with fetters on his 
legs, now made his appearance, seated in 
a wretched kibitk. This prisoner was 
a lieutenant-colonel of Rasan, a man in 
good circumstances, and, like myse\f, a 
husband and a father ; he had bben 
dragged out of his bed in the middle of 
the night, and, like me, torn from his 



203 

ailiicted family, and destined also to the 
same spot where I was travelling. A 
cuarrel which he had had with the sx> 
vernor was the cause of his misfortune* 
The irons with which he was leaded had 
swelled his legs exceedingly ; he had no 
change of linen, no clothes, and, in short, 
was in the most deplorable condition 
that can be imagined. 

He was escorted by a police officer, 
belonoino; to the town of Rasan. This 
man, who was a Greek by birth, and 
who spoke Italian very fluently, appear- 
ed to be very civil and well-disposed, 
and to do, ail in his power to alleviate 
the misfortune of his prisoner. He even 
went so far as to take off his chains, 
which our Counsellor would have been 
glad to have fastened on me. His good 
humour had pleased my odious guard 
to such a degree, that he allowed me to 
chat with him, though our conversation 



204 

might naturally enough have displeased 
him, as it was carried on in Italian, a 
language of which he had not the least 
knowledge. I was delighted with this 
meeting : the man was well informed, 
and after three lonely weeks, to find a 
human creature with whom I could con- 
verse, was an inexpressible pleasure to 
me. 

From this moment we generally tra- 
velled in company, and though we sepa- 
rated from time to time, we soon met 
again. The Colonel seemed to he a 
quiet good-natured man, and to bear 
his misfortune with great dignity of 
mind. In comparing our different cases, 
the consideration of his calamity was 
well calculated to reconcile me in a cer- 
tain degree to my own. In his escort 
he was more fortunate than me ; but in 
other respects his condition was worse 
than mine, as he was in total want of 



ft«J 

-every thing, not having had time to take 
any money with him. 

This unfortunate gentleman,be:ng con- 
tinually in sight, afforded me a spectacle 
that mitigated my own affliction. It re- 
vived my sinking resolution, and I en- 
deavoured to imitate his firmness of 
mind, I was furnished with tea, and 
Ave often drank it together. He would 
.smile as a token of gratitude : we wished 
much to relate our mutual sorrows, but 
that consolation was denied us. 

I cannot refrain from noticing a na- 
tural phenomenon which I saw on the 
road. It was a man one hundred and 
thirty years old. His eldest sc i, who 
was eighty, appeared not more than 
fifty. He has a numerous progeny, — 
When we arrived at his dwelling, we 
found him lying on a couch, with 
nothing but a hard matrass under 
him. Excepting his sight, which was 



2o5 

grown very weak, he had all his facul- 
ties unimpaired. He still continued to 
go into the woods in quest of bark to 
make his shoes ; and I was much struck 
to observe that his hands were neither 
wrinkled nor thin, as is commonly the 
case with old people. As soon as he saw 
us he arose, dressed himself, and offered 
me his bed. I was affected by this act 
of hospitality. That a man, almost a cen- 
tury older than myself, should offer me 
his bed, and sleep himself on the ground, 
was indeed a very singular act of kind- 
ness ! I felt peculiar delight in gazing on 
the old man, and left him with much 
regret. I should have been s;!ad to have 
asked him many questions relative to his 
manner of Jiving, which doubtless was 
a principal cause of his attaining such an 
extreme old age, but our stay was too 
short, and indeed I was not sufficiently 
master of the Russian language. » All that 



20/ 

I was able to learn on this subject wa^ 
that he had married late in life, and had 
never been addicted to the use of strong; 
liquors. 

/ At the last post before Casan, we met 
with General Mertens, whom I had for- 
merly known* This officer, who was a 
German by birth, had lately been nomi- 
nated Vice-eovernor of Perm. We met 
on the banks of the Wolga, and as the 
environs were under water as far as the 
eye could reach, wc made a long passage 
together. I rejoiced at this meeting ; I 
had not spoken German for the last 
three weeks : We talked of the good old 
times, and he listened to the story of 
my misfortunes with great attention. — 
The Counsellor, who formerly had ferv- 
ed under him, could not, from respect 
to the General, interrupt our conversa- 
tion. I learnt many occurrences that 
had taken place, few of which were of 



208 

sa agreeable nature. He was himself 
much out of humour with fortune. He 
was a Major-GeneTal of considerable 
-standing, and had been invested with a 
civil employment, without having soli- 
cited or desired it, and sent to Perm, 
two thousand verstes from Petersburg, 
where he had left his family. The oilice 
of Vice-Governor of that town was ra- 
ther a degradation than an advancement. 
I shall conclude his story by observing, 
that Fortune, who had seemed to frown 
on him, in making him Vice-Governor 
of Perm, w r here in fact he was nothing 
better than an exile, had since smiled on 
him ; for when he arrived at that place, 
he received a commission w T hich named 
him to the Government of Tw r er, a city- 
situated not far from Moscow, and 
which holds a distinguished rank among 
the Russian Provinces. He arrived at 
the seat of his government by a very 



2C9 

singular road, having made his way per 
aspera ad astra. Ah ! Why did not the 
Emperor act in the same manner to- 
wards me : Had he only ordered me to 
be conducted to Petersburg through Si- 
beria, I would erase from the tablet of 
my memory every circumstance of this 
narrative. 

We arrived in the evening at Casan, 
avoiding the inns as usual. It was late, 
and I saw but little of this remarkable 
city. Here the Counsellor had friends, 
as in all other parts, very useful friends, 
with whom he could lodo;e without ex- 
pence. We alighted in the Tartar sub- 
urbs, three verstes from the city, at the 
house of Lieut. Justifey Temofectsch, a 
man about fifty years of age, and one 
of the best creatures in the world* He 
was married but had no children : he 
seemed flattered by the friendship of the 
Counsellor, and wished for no greater 

vol. i. o 



2IO 

honour than his high protection. It was 
easy to perceive that he was not in very 
afHuent circumstances, nevertheless both 
he and his wife received us with so much 
kindness, and offered us every thing 
they had to offer in so cordial a manner, 
that I never shall forget their hospitality. 
Had my appetite been much greater than 
it was, they would have been so much 
the more happy. It was however far 
from being moderate, as all the post- 
houses we had stopped at, on the other 
side of Casan^iwere mere pig-sties. The 
Tschermists and the Wotiaks who keep 
them are all dirty and beastly people, 
scarcely acquainted with the laws of hos- 
pitality $ not even a chair is to be found 
in their houses. 

Notwithstanding the keenness of my 
appetite, had I been even Sancho him- 
self, I could never have swallowed every 
thing my good host of Casan placed be- 



2M 

fore me. Early in the morning was served 
coffee, with bread and butter ; an hour 
after pirogue (a kind of meat pie) with 
brandy ; two hours later, moi e brandy, 
with soused fish, sausages, and such 
things. Afterwards came in dinner, con- 
sisting of four very largre dishes ; then at 
three o'clock coffee and biscuits ; at five 
tea, with several kinds of pastry, and at 
nighty after ail this feasting, came a plen- 
tiful supper. Heavens ! how cry two 
•companions laboured ; they had certain- 
ly stomachs which contained a store- 
house against a time of scarcity ! In 
addition to this good eating and drink- 
ing, I was accommodated with a good 
bed, and for the first night of my jour- 
ney slept soundly : I might even say, 
that the halt would have refreshed me 
very much, had not the great num- 
ber of taracans* interrupted the en- 

* Blatta oxientalis : thev are called in Germany 
\\ akes. 



212 

joyment of it. It is difficult to form an 
idea of the prodigious quantities of these 
insects that infested every room. I had 
never seen so many together, even in 
the most wretched hut. They kept run- 
ning by thousands over the walls and 
ceiling ; and whenever a candle ap- 
peared, these thousands were converted 
into millions. A piece of bread left on 
the table would be instantly covered 
with them j and when the inhabitants 
take their meals, they always sit at a dis- 
tance from the walls. When in bed, 
however, though I slept with the cur- 
tains open, not one of them molested me. 
0: We remained two days at Casan, or 
rather in the Tartar suburb* Here by 
stealth I wrote with a pencil another 
note to my wife, but I know not whe- 
ther she received it, I then began to 
commit to paper the substance of a me- 
morial to the Emperor, and as all writ- 



2 13 

ing for this purpose was positively for- 
bidden me, I was obliged to observe the 
strictest precaution in my proceedings. 
At first I only ventured to scribble with 
a pencil. I had one about me which I 
had bought at Moscow, on the pretext 
of noting down the posts. I had like- 
wise two dictionaries to assist me in the 
attainment of the Russian language, and 
on the margin of these books I made 
my memorandums. For this purpose 
I availed myself of every solitary mo- 
ment ; these were. often of short* du- 
ration indeed ; but the repairs of the 
carriage obliging the Counsellor to go 
more than once to the blacksmith's, I 
had then several hours at my command. 
In these dictionaries I registered many 
circumstances without awakening the 
least suspicion. At Casan, indeed, I 
remained much in bed, concealed by cur- 
tains which still admitted sufficient light 



214 

to enable me to proceed with my task* 
In this manner I wrote without inter- 
ruption, as my companions imagining 
rest to be extremely necessary to my 
health, were very willing that I should 
take k. I began to consider this work 
as an indespensible measure ; in the first 
place, because I had no reliance on the 
Counsellor's declarations that I should 
be allowed to write ?.i Tobolsk ; and in 
the second, I had an opportunity of 
sending these sketches to my wife, who 
would arrange them in proper order, 
and forward them to their destina- 
tion. 

The rest of my time I passed in a very 
dull manner at Casan. I commonly sat 
at the window which looked into the 
court-yard, where my carriage stood to 
remind me of the misery I had suffered 
in it for three lon^c weeks. 
I A handsome Tartar woman, who 



- l 5 

lodged In the room over me, furnished 
me however with some amusement ; not 
that I was struck either with her beauty 
or her youth, but she afforded a picture 
of the Tartar manners, which was quite 
a novel subject to inc. When a female 
of that nation sees a stranger, she is ob- 
liged by custom to run from him, or to 
hide her face. This woman had some busi- 
ness to transact in a small warehouse ex- 
actly opposite to my window. The sight 
of me embarrassed her extremely, and 
she remained undecided whether to stay 
or go ; but observing that I kept my 
ground, she took her resolution, and 
covering herself with a linen cloth she 
had at hand, ventured across the yard. 
At other times she had only her arms 
to screen her face from my view ; but 
having always something to carry in her 
hands, this expedient proved very in- 
convenient to her 3 . and by way of re- 



2l6 

medy she would lift up the corner of the 
handkerchief she had about her neck, 
and convert it into a veil. This was 
robbing Peter to pay Paul, for it left her 
bosom bare : Again, endeavouring to 
hide one part, she exposed the other ; 
and whenever any thing fell out of her 
hand, she would stoop down to recover 
it, and then both face and neck were ex- 
posed. I should scarcely have conceived 
it possible, that so much bashfulness and 
so much coquetry could be united ; and 
1 confess that at any other time, I should 
have enjoyed this little intrigue much 
longer. 
An incident of a very different nature, 
* however, occurred just as we were tak- 
ing leave of this place : Alexander Scliui- 
kins, who was looking out of the win- 
dow, exclaimed, u A Senate-courier !" 
and instantly hallooed out to him, " who* 
are you looking for ?" 



217 

1 u For you," was the reply. This an- 
swer threw me into great agitation of 
mind ; my knees shook, and I was inca- 
pable of seeing any thing around me. 
A courier from the senate 1 said I to 
myself. What can he want ? Surely his 
errand concerns me! Alas, no ! — Two 
Senators were travelling to Siberia to 
inspect the government. The Courier 
who attended them, hearing of our ar- 
rival, had come to see Alexander Schul- 
kins, his old comrade. Never in my life 
did I experience so painful an illusion. 
It was lon^ before I could recover either 
my senses or the use of my limbs. From 
this moment I gave up all hopes of being 
overtaken by a courier, and in the same 
proportion that I had hitherto wished 
to defer my departure, I now eagerly 
desired to accelerate it. I became anxious 
to know my fate, in order to inform my 



21 8 

wife of it, afid without loss of time to* 
present my memorial to the Emperor. 

We left Casan the 17th of May, old 
style, and though the season was agree- 
ably warm, we still found great quanti- 
ties of snow in the woods,. The distance 
from Casan, to Perm is nearly six hun- 
dred verstes : the route runs all the way 
through forests, in which we often tra- 
velled four German miles together with- 
out seeing a single village.. The road 
is wide and pretty level ; it is, how- 
ever, frequently intersected by swamps* 
and being repaired with faggots, the 
traveller is almost jolted to death. 

We met several companies of robbers, 
chained in couples, who were marching 
on foot to the mines, of Nertschinsk ;*■ 
among them I observed several women. 
- - - 

* These companies are often six months on their 
way. 



219 

They were escorted by the peasantry o£ 
the neighbourhood : as they passed, they 
asked our charity. Alas! though rid- 
ing in a carriage, I was certainly more 
unfortunate than they were. Sufferings 
are to be measured by the mind. The 
sight of these wretches, the gloominess 
of the forest, the recitals of the horrid 
murders committed in these deserts, not 
a little conspired to aggravate my me- 
lancholy: but, OGod of consolation, thou 
aidest the unhappy when overwhelmed 
with sorrows, and sendest hope to com- 
fort them ! Yes, even in this forest , that 
benign star began to shine. upon me. It 
shone indeed at a distance, but it shed a 
beam that penetrated the dark gloom 
that hung over my soul. It gradually 
dispersed, and my heart, while I am 
penning this passage, still feels its encou- 
raging glow. I cannot now mention 
whence this sudden alteration - arose j 



220 

perhaps I may never avow it.* Should 
I ever be able to do so, it must be after 
having realised this pleasing hope. Let 
me only add, that it was founded upon 
my wife's affection ; the basis indeed 
was a solid one : yes, if she still lived, 
her love was my guarantee that she 
would fly to my assistance. 

We arrived at Perm without any ac- 
cident ; it is an unpleasant town, and 
our Counsellor had not a single acquaint- 
ance in it. We lodged at a clock-maker's 
who kept a sort of an inn. His name 
was Rosenburg ; he w r as born at Riga, 
and had formerly been in the service of 
Prince Biron. We were here accommo- 
dated with every thing that we want- 
ed ; and I now began to perceive my 

* My hopes originated in the plan of an escape 
which I had formed and expected to execute with 
the assistance of my wife* This will be explained 

in the sequel. 



221 

Counsellor grew less mistrustful of me. 
He frequently left me quite alone; 
and the box in which my money was 
kept lay near me unlocked on the table. 
I availed myself of a moment that seem- 
ed so favourable to my design, and took 
out a hundred roubles. This idea of 
robbing my own store occurred to me 
as a kind of presentiment that it was 
soon going to be attacked for the last 
time. Our Counsellor, on his return, 
asked me for some more money, and I 
refused him without any ceremony. He 
then grew so much out of humour that 
I determined to open the box before 
him. " See, 5 ' said I, " here are only 
one hundred and ten roubles. What a 
small sum, in my present situation, in 
a strange country, and in want of abso- 
lute necessaries ! This is all I have to 
subsist on till I can procure a supply from 
a family at five hundred German miles 



222 

-distance. Here are, however, fifty rou- 
bles ; if you are not satisfied with these, 
do your worst ; but I know how to find 
redress." He appeared to be struck 
with these last words, and, becoming 
more complaisant, took the fifty roubles, 
and ceased to torment me; His prin- 
ciples, it seems, were quite opposite to 
those of seamen, who are rough and 
boisterous at the beginning of the voy- 
age, but grow kind and friendly towards 
the end of it ; whereas the nearer we 
drew to our destination, the more un- 
civil our Counsellor became. Doubtless 
nothing but the fear of my elopement 
had induced him to assume a decency of 
manners, and now that he no longer 
entertained any apprehensions on that 
head, he began to think there was no 
longer any necessity for restraint upon 
Iiis behaviour. 

We were on the point of setting cut 



nil 

from I know not what post, at about 
eight o'clock in the evening, when a 
dark storm burst over us, and it began 
to thunder. I intreated the Counsellor, 
in the most pressing maimer, to defer 
our departure till the storm had abated; 
but he positively refused. I represented 
the dangers we had to dread from such 
tempestuous weather, that our horses 
had iron about them, that the carriage 
contained much of that metal, and that 
such conductors alone were sufficient to 
attract the lightnmg. He tok! me with 
a sneer that all that was an idle story. 
I added, that prudent travellers gene- 
rally got out of their carriages, and 
chose some open spot to remain in, 
when overtaken by thunder-storms. 
But my Counsellor still sneered at me, 
•and asked me how I could owe credit 
to such trash. Irritated not only at his 
W3jit of complaisance, but likewise at 



liis ignorance, which certainly ought 
not to have vexed me at all, I threw 
myself into the carriage. "Why should 
I dread death ? said I to myself. Only 
creatures like this man should fear it ; 
for what has he to expect beyond the 
grave ? 

We continued our route, and the claps' 
of thunder grew more loud and frequent. 
We passed over a heath which on one 
side the road was in a blaze. This kind 
of conflagration is different from that of 
a wood. The flame crawls along: in a 
serpentine direction, at one time quick, 
at another slow. Sometimes it darts 
upwards, but never continues long in 
that direction; sometimes it lurks con- 
cealed and concentrated, till it finds fresh 
fuel to feed upon. 

Although this fire was by no means' 
dangerous, yet the spectacle altogether 
was exceedingly terrible. Here the 



— 5 

Barnes of the heath and under-wood 
crackled ; there the lightning flashed, 
and the heavens were all on fire. Such 
were the combined horrors of the route 
for several verstes together, when at 
length we came to a wood of fir and 
birch of small extent. Having cleared 
the wood, we found the country all under 
water, A bridge of boats lay on the 
bank for the purpose of ferrying over 
to a village on the other side, but it -. 
unattended and empty. The i; don 

extended so far. ! at a m 

distance from . where the 

boatmen were now re^alino; themseb 

called !qb ;se men, but re- 

mained a considerable time before 
could be heard : at last a man crossed 
over to us in a small boat. Though the 
raft had but one rope, and the water wc 
had to cross was stagnant, yet I was of 
opinion that a single boatman was iQ* 
vol. i* p 



226 

sufficient for the purpose of fejrying us 
over : but the Counsellor was determin- 
ed to try the experiment, and accord- 
ingly ordered the man to bring the raft 
to the bank. The boatman replied that 
he could not do so on account of the 
shallows, as it would drive the raft 
aground, which, with our additional 
weight, could not be got off again ; but 
the man added, that we had five good 
horses which were well able to draw us 
to the raft. We therefore proceeded, 
the wheels sunk in stiff clay ; four horses 
reached the raft, but the fifth, endea- 
vouring to do the same, slipped back, 
and remained with his hind parts deep 
in the water, and at last floundered on 
one side ; nor could any means induce 
him to get upon his legs again. In the 
mean time the other horses kept pulling 
on. My companions had jumped out 
of the carriage; I remained in it,,se- 



227 

cretly delighted at what had happened. 
At length observing that the slight rope 
which fastened the raft was likely to be 
broken by the struggles of the horses, 
I thought it would be imprudent not to 
follow their example, and I accordingly 
stepped into the water, and climbed on 
board the raft. The Counsellor took 
the whip, and mounted the driver's seat; 
the postilion held the horses by the 
reins, the courier beat them forwards 
with the bough of a tree, the boatmen 
laid hold of the rope, and I remained 
with my arms folded, and my feet wet, 
exposed to a most violent shower of 
rain. In the midst of all this bustle, a 
thunder-bolt fell upo v n a birch-tree. The 
report was terrible. \ They all let fall 
their arms, and only raised them again 
to make a thousand signs of the cross 
upon their breasts and foreheads. Gos- 
podin poniilu was repeated incessantly. 



228 

The Counsellor was confounded, and 
the Courier upbraided him with not 
having listened to his advice. I smiled, 
but did not utter a word. 

The distance from Perm to Tobolsk 
is computed to be nine hundred verstes, 
but the road and the country are far 
superior to those between Casan and 
Perm. Instead of those gloomy forests 
of pine, we. now saw young woods of 
birch intermixed wdth extensive and fer- 
tile fields, in. a high state of cultivation, 
and opulent villages, either Russian or 
Tartar, situated at no great distance 
from each other. The countenances of 
the peasants appear so contented and 
cheerful on Sundays and holidays, that 
the traveller can scarcely persuade him- 
self lie is really in Siberia. In these vil- 
lages the houses are much cleaner than in 
those of the other Russians. The inns 
have each two rooms ; the common 



229 

one, called the 'isba 9 and the other tie 
gornhza. These chambers have win- 
dows glazed with transparent pebble ; 
there are tables covered with decent ta- 
pestry, and a variety of fine images 
are placed in every corner. They are 
furnished also with manv household 
utensils, which we had not seen in any 
of the peasants' houses for a consider- 
able distance ; such as glasses, cups and 
saucers, &c. Ilikewise remarked more 
hospitality among the people of these 
parts than even among the Russians, 
whose language, I should observe, bears 
no resemblance to theirs. 

On working-days the country seems 
to be thinly inhabited ; one may travel 
for hours together without meeting a 
single man, and yet these apparently de- 
sert lands are so extremely fertile, that 
they appear as if they were cultiv 



230 

magic. Every holiday the young girls, 
clad in white and red, or in blue, reaort 
to the village green, and entertain them- 
selves with singing and dancing. The 
young men have their own amusements; 
parties of them were less frequently seen 
than of the other sex, and were less nu- 
merous, which must be attributed to the 
late levies, which had considerably dimi- 
nished their number in these parts. I 
did not observe the indiscriminate mix- 
ture of the sexes in any of their sports. 
T saw a great number of children, most 
of whom were, however,- born in the 
reign of Catharine. 

j. The peasants in general cherish a ten- 
der remembrance of the late Empress : 
they call i her matuschka (little mother.) 
On the contrary, they seldom speak of 
her son, the present Emperor, and when 
they do it is with great reserve^ 



23 « 

/ In all the government of Perm, JSka- 
terinabur * is the only town of impor- 
tance. Here the Counsellor discovered 
my writings, which threw him into a 
violent rage. Had I not prevented him, 
he would have torn my books. " I shall 
let the Governor see these," said he. 
" You may if you please," replied I ; 
they contain nothing more than the 
draught of a memorial which I intend 
to present to the Emperor ; and I began 
the task with so much the more confi- 
dence, as you had assured me, in the 
most positive terms, this indulgence 
would be granted me." " That," replied 
he, " will depend on the last instruc- 
tions sent to the Governor." " What," 
said I, " then you are not certain, after 
all your oaths, that I am to remain at 
Tobolsk! And yet you assured me, on 



* Celebrated for the mines in its neighbourhood, 



the word and honour of a man, that 
that city was to be the end of my jour- 
ney!" 

He appeared to be confounded, and 
assured me a^ain that he was not the 
bearer of any order that implied my 
being sent further than Tobolsk. Here 
he paused : my reproaches doubtless 
made him forget what else he had to 
say ; at least he said no more* He had, 
however, renewed my anxiety ; my fate 
still appeared to be undecided. 

Tiumen was the first town we came 
to on the frontiers of Siberia. We 
passed through a forest about forty 
verstes short of this place, in which the 
direction-posts indicate that the traveller 
is already in the jurisdiction of Tobolsk. 
The Counsellor was inhuman enough 
to point to these posts, and to explain 
the intention of them. I made no reply 
though my heart was bursting with 'aft- 



J<///e2;i?,.V<>/,. 




(2J>7?t/j#t*H2,?i& Qazce 



€>71<7/M< 



*33 

guish. Alas ! was it not enough to be 
a prey to all the ills that a quick sense 
of feeling created within me ? Was it 
necessary that this executioner should 
resort to outward objects to increase 
my sufferings ? I was now actually in 
Siberia ; and a circumstance occurred 
at the first post, not at all calculated to 
assuage the agony of mind I had suf- 
fered at the sight of the direction-posts. 
I shall relate the anecdote, which in- 
flicted torments upon my heart never 
to be forgotten. 

We stopped to change horses at a 
village, and as I was sitting at the door 
of *a cottage, breaking fome bread into a 
bowl of milk, an old man of sixty, 
whose hair and beard were white as 
snowj threw himself on the ground, 
and enquired with extreme earnestness 
if we had brought him any letters from 
Revel. I fixed my eyes steadfastly uson 



234 

kim ; I doubted whether I had rightly 
understood him, upon which a woman, 
who was standing by, whispered me ; 
— " this man has lost his senses : he 
starts from his bed every time he hears 
of the arrival of a stranger, and always 
asks the same question. " " Give me a 
piece of paper," continued she, " and I 
will pacify him ; otherwise you will 
have much trouble with him, for he 
will persist in staying here, and tire you 
with his lamentations." She then pre- 
tended to read a letter to him, begin- 
ning with these words—" My dear hus- 
" band, I am in perfect health, as like? 
" wise are all our children. Make your- 
" self easy, we shall soon be with you." 
The old man appeared to listen w r ith 
extreme delight ; he smiled and stroked 
his beard ; then taking the paper in his 
hand he pressed it to his bosom. He 
now related very rationally that he had 



*35 

formerly been a soldier, and had served 
on board the Revel fleet, at Cronstadt y 
and at other places ; he added that he 
was an invalid, that he had just left his 
wife, and that she was now with her 
children at Revel. The woman told us 
that he had left them thirty years ago y 
the poor man vehemently contradicted 
her, and then seated himself on the end 
of the bench, where my two gentlemen 
were amusing themselves in their old 
way, and of whom he appeared to take 
no notice, Aftet this, he uttered some 
words which I could not well hear, then 
cried out aloud ; " My dearest, where 
art thou at this moment ; art thou at Re* 
vel, at Riga, or at Petersburg ? — These 
words were so applicable to my own si- 
tuation, that I had scarcely strength 
enough to rise from my seat, and retire 
to conceal my tears. This good old 
man, thought I, exhibits a picture of 



what ere long I may be. Deprived of 
reason, I may perhaps one day loiter 
about the road, and ask the passengers 
if they had any letters from ReveL 
Even now I may exclaim, like him, "My 
dearest, where art thou at this moment?* 
Art thou at Petersburg, at Riga, or at 
Revel ?"' Never, O never, did I experi- 
ence such a painful moment ! The image 
of the old man is for ever engraven on 
my memory ; it is present to me when 
I a\Vake ; it haunts me in my dreams, 
and is eternally before me. 

The carriage was ready before I hack 
well recovered myself ; my companions, 
who saw mt lay asidfe the bowl of milk, 
could not conceive what ailed me, nor 
did I acquaint them with the state of 
my feelings, which would only have in- 
curred their ridicule. I almost blush to 
relate, that on leaving the poor lunatic 
I made him a small present. The man, 



m 

^who for the long space of thirty-five 
years had never lost sight of his family, 
was a being of no common stamp ; nor 
could the sufferings of his heart be re- 
lieved by money; he received what I 
rave him with perfect indifference, and 
Vwithout thanks. I felt the blood rise 
' into my cheeks, and I covered my face 
as I left him. Such was my entrance 
into Siberia, The Irtisch and the Tobol 
had deluged the country for some miles 
round; we were therefore obliged to 
leave our carriage, and to embark with 
our baggage on board a slight barge. 
The day was warm, and the boat sailed 
very fast. My companions began to 
snore, and left me at full leisure to re- 
flect on the uncertainty of my destina- 
tion. 

Three hours after this Tobolsk ap- 
peared at a short distance. The city is 
built on the banks of the Irtisch ; its 



steeples produce a grand effect, and that 
part of the town, which is called the ci- 
tadel, where the Governor's palace forms 
a prominent object, was particularly 
striking ; on a nearer view, however, 
it appeared partly in ruins, having for- 
merly suffered by fire* It was now 
that I had an opportunity of fully as- 
certaining the difference between the 
coarse but kind disposition of Alexander 
Schulkins and the unfeeling apathy of 
the Counsellor. When the latter awoke 
he gave a loose to the most indecent 
exultations of delight, and laughed im- 
moderately without the least regard to 
that delicacy, which respect for the un- 
fortunate so naturally inspires* He ap- 
peared like an executioner, who, the 
moment he has taken away the life of 
a fellow-creature, assumes a look of 
satisfaction, and applauds his own dex- 
terity. The Courier, on the contrary, 



239 

was silent and dejected, at seeing me so 
near a place where my destiny was to be 
.decided ; he gazed on me by stealth from 
time to time, with looks of sorrow and 
compassion. 

We entered the town by water : the 
lower parts were overflown, the streets 
were full of boats, in which the inhabi- 
tants were carrying on the necessary bu- 
siness of the day. 

On the tenth of May in the afternoon, 
we landed. near the great market place.* 
We procured a kibick, and instantly re- 
paired to the -Governor's house. When 
We arrived at the door, the Counsellor 
entered and left me in the carriage. 
This was a painful quarter of an hour 
indeed ! The servants stared at me, and 
whispered one another \ all this gave me 



* Called the basar, the name this .part of the 
town bears all over Asia. 



'240 



i 

great uneasiness. At last the Counsellor 
returned, and beckoned me to follow 
him. He then led me through the gar- 
den to a summer -house, where the Go- 
vernor had! been taking an afternoon's 
nap. I asked my conductor if I was to 
renpiin here ; and he answered me dryly; 
" Iifdeed, Sir, I cannot say/ 5 — The sum- 
mer-house was opeu ; I with a firm step 
entered alone ; the Counsellor remained 
without. The Governor M. de Kus- 
chelef, who had been represented to me 
as a very humane man, by the people at 
Perm, seemed about forty years old ; 
his person v?as noble, and his counte- 
nance foil of intelligence. His first words 
were these : Pariez-vous Francois, Mon- 
sieur ? The question drove me almost 
frantic with delight, so happy was I to 
be at length able to explain myself. Oui 9 
Stammered I, with great eagerness. 
He then begged me to be seated, 



241 

f Your name is familiar to me, it is the 
name of an author." 

" Alas, Sir ! I am myself that author." 
" How !" cried be, ** can that be pos- 
sible ? What has occasioned you to be 
brought here r" " I imagined your Ex- 
cellency would have informed me of 
that." "I inform you! I am utterly 
ignorant of it. See what the order 
states : you are President de Kotzebue of 
Revel, and you are consigned to my cus- 
tody." (He shewed me the paper, which 
contained only five or six line-;.) " I 
do not come from Revel," said I, * ; but 
from the frontiers of Prussia/' ** Per* 
haps you had not permission to enter 
Russia r" * I had a passport in due form, 
signed by the Emperor, and expedited 
by his order ; but this passport has not 
been respected : on the contrary, I have 
been torn from the arms of my family, 
in order, as I was told, to be conveyed 

VOL. I. Q^ 



242 

to Petersburg, and without any further 
explanation, I havebeen dragged hither." 

The Governor was about to speak, 
but he suddenly checked himself. " Do 
you know nothing more than this ?" at 
length continued he ; " do you suspect 
any thing which might have been laid to 
your charge ?" "I have not the least 
suspicion of any thing whatever," re- 
plied I ; " may I perish, Sir, if I can 
form any conjecture. Your Excellency 
may easily imagine I have been racking 
my brains, during the whole journey, to 
discover what' could have occasioned this 
proceeding : but I am unable even to 
guess at the cause." 

The Governor, after a short pause, 
continued : " I have read such of your 
works as have been translated into the 
Russian language, and I am extremely 
happy to be acquainted with you ; for 
vour own sake, however, I could have 



4C 



^43 

wished not to have been introduced to 
you here*" 

It is a great consolation/' replied I, 
to meet with a man of your worth; and 
I flatter myself I shall be able at least to 
remain in this neighbourhood." " Much 
as I should gain by your socciety," an- 
swered he, " I am unable to grant your 
request." I grew quite alarmed. " I 
must not hope then to stay here," cried 
I, in the bitterness of my heart ; " mi- 
serable indeed must that man be, who 
considers the privilege of remaining 
Tobolsk an indulgence ! Must I drag en 
my wretched existence on a spot still 
more remote ?" 

" Every thing in my power shall be 
done to alleviate the severity of your si- 
tuation, but my orders require me to as- 
sign you a place of retirement within the 
limits of my government, and Tobolsk 
is expressly excluded. I need not ob- 



244 

serve that I cannot act against my in- 
structions : make choice of any town, 
except Tiumen, which, on account of its 
contiguity to the high road, cannot be 
allotted you," 

" I am an utter stranger to Siberia, 
and resign myself with confidence to 
your Excellency's goodness ; but, were 
it possible, I am desirous of being at no 
great distance from this spot i" 

He immediately named Tschim, as 
the nearest town, which is situate within 
three hundred and forty verstes, or fifty 
German miles, from Tobolsk; " but, con- 
tinued he, I would advise you to prefer 
Kurgan,* a hundred verstes farther off, 
but situated in a milder climate. Kur- 
gan, said he with a smile, is the Italy of 
Siberia. You will even find wild cher- 



* It is written in this manner, but pronounced 



245 

ries there ; but what is of more impor- 
tance, the state of society there is very 
agreeable." 

" I am at present so exhausted^ that I 
wish, if it could be allowed me, to remain 
here a few weeks at least, to recover my 
strength ?" The Governor paused ; alter 
a short reflection — " Yes," replied he, 
with great goodness, " that may be 
done, and I will obtain you the assistance 
of a physician." Another request la- 
boured in my mind : " May I write to 
the Emperor r" said I, in a stammering 
voice. " Certainly." " And to my 
wife ?" " Yes ; but that can only be 
done under cover to the Crown Advo- 
cate, who will take care to forward the 
letter, if it contains nothing suspicious." 

I felt myself still more consoled : he 
gave orders that a good lodging should 
be provided for me in the town, and I 
took my leave of him, as did the Coun- 



246 

sellor, who, I could observe, had been 
treated with very little consideration. 

* 4 Are you to remain here ?" said the 
Counsellor, after we had left the Go- 
vernor's palace. " No," replied I coldly; 
but I soon after related the whole inter- 
view to the good-hearted Schlilkins. 
The Counsellor told me that the Gover- 
nor had asked him if I was related to an 
author of my name, but that he did not 
understand what he meant. I could not 
forbear smiling at the man's stupidity : 
nothing indeed could be more ludicrous 
than his surprise to find so many people 
at Tobolsk acquainted with me, and to 
observe the respect and attention that 
was paid to me there. His friends, Maxi- 
moff of Moscow, and Justifei Timo- 
feitsch of Casan, had said nothing con- 
cerning me ; and to speak frankly, I was 
myself surprised to discover how- well I 
was known, and to meet such- kind- 



247 
hearted people in those remote and sa-, 



vage regions, 



/The police soon pointed out the lodg- 
ing commonly occupied by people of 
distinction who are banished to Siberia. 
It consisted of two rooms ; it belonged 
to an inhabitant of the place ; and as this 
man was compelled to furnish the rooms 
without receiving any retribution, he 
had not been at all solicitous to fit them 
up in a capital style. The windows were 
broken, the walls naked, or hung with 
ragged old-fashioned tapestry, and the 
chambers swarmed with insects. Under 
the windows was a stagnant pond ex- 
haling putrid vapours. This is an exact 
picture of the apartments, but they were 
far from appearing contemptible in the 
eyes of a man, who a few minutes be- 
fore had dreaded being consigned to a 
dark dungeon. It was indeed but too 
natural to expect every thing that was 



dreadful j having been dragged in this 
extraordinary manner into Siberia, I had 
no security that a prison did not await 
me there ; or even the discipline of the 
knout, had my persecutors thought fit to 
administer it ! From this time I was re- 
lieved from the torments of uncertainty ; 
my fate seemed to be decided. I had ar- 
rived at the very acme of misery, and I 
began calmly to contemplate the whole 
extent of my misfortune. 

By means of a little civility on my 
part, which appeared to strike my host 
as a novelty, and which was nothing 
more with me than a virtue of habit, I 
soon prevailed on him to accommodate 
me with a table and two wooden stools. 
It would have been vain to have asked 
for a bedstead ; but I had almost for- 
gotten the use of one, and it was no 
new thing to me to spread my cloke on 
the ground, with an old silk surtout, 



549 

which has often served as a covering for 
my youngest child. I know not how it 
happened that the maid put this coat 
into the carriage, but I am exceedingly 
obliged to her care ; for the sight of it 
renewed sensations of a very endearing 
nature ! To these coverings I added a 
mattress which I purchased in the town. 
Here, said I, throwing myself upon it, 
here is my death-bed ! 

An hour after this an officer of the 
police made his appearance to take for- 
mal possession of my person. He re- 
ceived me from the hands of the Coun- 
sellor, with whom, heaven be praised, 
I had thenceforth nothing more to do ! 
This officer, whose name was Katatinski, 
was a man of a most agreeable figure : 
he was attended by a single subaltern. 
" I shall call every day," said he, " but 
merely for the sake of form, to pay you 
a visit, and to know how you are ; for 



250 

I must make a daily report concerning 
you. This man, indeed, (alluding to the 
subaltern) must remain continually about 
you, but less as a guard than as a person 
ready to serve you. 

The Counsellor, happy to have done 
with me, told me on going away, that 
he should immediately introduce a friend 
of his to me, whom he had brought 
into Siberia the preceding summer, and 
of whom he had already spoken in very 
flattering terms on the road ; but as his 
praise was no recommendation with me, 
I had no desire to make this new ac- 
quaintance. My surprize was however 
the more agreeable, when he introduced 
M. Kiniakoff, one of the best informed 
young men I had ever met with. He 
accosted me in French, assured me he 
had repeatedly read my works, and said 
many handsome things to me on that 
subject. He offered me his services, la- 



2 5* 

mented that I had experienced the same 
misfortune that had befallen him, and 
particularly that I had travelled in such 
bad company ; with such a miscreant ! 
That was the flattering appellation with 
which he honoured the Counsellor. 

" But this man calls himself your 
friend/ 5 

" Heaven preserve me from such a 
friend ! You must think I wished to 
keep on good terms with him, and this 
I still continue to do." 

Kiniakoff, the son of a man of rank 
of the town of Simbiesk,* had been sent 
to Siberia, with two of his brothers, 
and some other officers, for having lam- 
pooned the Emperor. He alone had the 
good fortune to remain at Tobolsk ; 
two others of them had Irkutzk for 



*A place situated two hundred verstes to the 
south of Casan, in a very temperate climate. 



1$! 

their prison ; his youngest brother was 
loaded with fetters, and closely confined 
in a small fortress four thousand verstes 
from Tobolsk ; another in the dreadful 
Beresow, a place equalling in horrors all 
that can be imagined of the infernal 
regions. 

I derived no small consolation from 
meeting with a man who appeared en- 
dowed with noble sentiments, and with 
whom, from the first quarter of an hour 
after our meeting, I felt myself as fami- 
liar as if he had been an old acquaintance. 
He promised me books ; what luxury ! 
From him I learnt that the Emperor 
had proscribed all foreign literature 
throughout his dominions, and that my 
pieces were frequently acted at To- 
bolsk, in an indifferent manner indeed, 
but with great applause ; he likewise 
was pleased to add, that my arrival here 
was more talked of than that of half a 



-53 

dozen generals in chief would have been. 
He even offered me, with the Governor's 
leave, his house and his table. We con- 
versed together more than an hour, and 
parted highly satisfied with each other, 
Among other, visitors, Baron de Som- 
maruga, a Lieutenant Colonel in the 
Austrian service, and knight of the or- 
der of Maria Theresa, did me the favour 
to call on me. He had fought a duel in 
consequence of a love affair, while he 
was at Riga, and his rival, a man of 
more interest than himself, had procured 
his exile, without leaping any advantage 
from it ; for the young lady, a girl of 
eighteen, whom Sommaruga had mar- 
ried, soon after left her relations, and 
flew to Tobolsk to share the misfortunes 
of her husband. She undertook this 
long journey without knowing a word 
of the Russian language, and under the 
sole escort of a common Courier. . Hear- 



254 

ing at Moscow that her husband lay ill 
at Twer, she instantly flew to him, and 
after that accompanied him to Tobolsk, 
where I have often witnessed her un- 
shaken attachment. V She has evinced 
great kindness towards me. Not know- 
ing how to cook victuals, I frequently 
made my meal upon a slice of dry bread. 
From this lady, however, I have more 
than once received a portion of her soup 
and roast meat. 

I also saw here Count de Soltikow, 
a man advanced in years, and in affluent 
circumstances, who had been exiled for 
usurious practices. He kept a good 
house here, and was a very agreeable 
companion: through his means I was 
furnished with newspapers. 

Three tradesmen from Moscow, two 
Frenchmen and a German, increased the 
number of unfortunate exiles at this 
place, having been concerned in smug- 



Sin- 
gling transactions to the amount of not 
more than two hundred roubles. The 
latter, whose name is Becker, is a very 
worthy and friendly man. Kis wife 
has just left him in order to solicit his 
recal, and if she should not succeed, she 
intends to return here with her chil- 
dren* I embraced the hopes that this 
opportunity would likewise enable my 
own family to join me here. 

I also received the visits of four Poles, 
who had been sent into exile for impru- 
dencies of a political nature. They were 
♦poor, though of noble birth, and re- 
ceived each an allowance from the State 
of twenty copecks, or about ten French 
sols a day. In a word, my chamber was 
crouded with guests, a circumstance ex- 
tremely inconvenient to me ; and I felt 
relieved when the approach of night 
enabled me to retire to my bed, and to 
the indulgence of my own reflections 



256 

In the course of the night a remark- 
able circumstance took place, the expla- 
nation of which I must leave to my good 
friends Doctors Gall and Hufeland. I 
had fallen asleep ; towards twelve o'clock 
I awoke, and fancied myself on board a 
ship. I not only felt the rocking mo- 
tion of the vessel, but heard the flapping 
of the sails, and the noise and bustle of 
the crew. As l lay on the floor, I could 
see no objects through the window, ex- 
cept the sky, and this circumstance add- 
ed to the force of the illusion. I was 
sensible it was such, and endeavoured tq 
overcome it. I felt myself, as it were, 
furnished with two separate minds, the 
one confirmed what I fancied, the other 
convinced me that it was all imaginary. 
I staggered about the room, though I 
saw the Counsellor, and every thing 
that surrounded me the evening before, 
remaining absolutely in the same place. 



*57 

I went to the window; the wooden 
houses in the streets I thought were ships, 
and in every direction I perceived the 
open sea. Whither am I going ? seemed 
to say one mind. Now r here, replied the 
other ; you are still in your own apart- 
ment. This singular sensation, which I 
cannot well describe, continued for half 
an hour ; by degrees it became less pow- 
erful, and at length entirely quitted me, 
A violent palpitation of the heart, and a 
quick convulsive pulse succeeded. Yet 
I was not feverish, nor did I feel any 
head-each. y'My own opinion and con- 
viction is, that the whole must have been 
the commencement of a species of insa- 
nity. 

* ..-" I was visited by Aulic Counsellor Pa~ 
terson, Surgeon -Major of the town, who 
was born at Revel. He ascribed this 
strange delirium to the fatigues I had 
undergone, both of body and mind* 1 

VOL. I. R 



258 

This explanation, however, appeared 
unsatisfactory to me, though it was per- 
haps the best that could be given* I had 
soon reason to entertain a very favour- 
able opinion of this worthy person : he 
was a countryman of my wife's, and he 
quickly gained my confidence by the 
noble frankness of his behaviour. From 
my first arrival here, he gave me daily 
proof of his humanity, which even ac- 
companied me to my desert ; for it is 
to him that I am indebted for many 
things of the first necessity, which, at 
Kurgan, where I was compelled to be 
my own physician, were of invaluable 
service to me. He also took all possible 
pains with the Governor in order to pro- 
cure me the privilege of remaining at 
Tobolsk, and if he was not successful, it 
was merely because the order that came 
with me did not state whether Tobolsk 
or the Government of Tobolsk was to 



*59 

be the place of my exile. In the latter 
case, the spot not being positively spe- 
cified, the Governor determines as he 
thinks fit. All my new friends were of 
opinion that the order being vague, the 
Governor had it in his power to retain 
me at Tobolsk ; but according to eti- 
quette, he could not assign to me the 
place where he himself resides. If ever 
he loses sight of this rule, it is in the 
case of obscure exiles, and where there 
is good reason to suppose that no en- 
quiry would be made concerning them. 
But unfortunately this was not my case, 
my arrest having been attended with 
such singular circumstances, that it ap- 
peared an affair of no small importance. 
The Governor naturally concluded that 
he should be liable to those secret infor- 
mations which are now so common : 
in short his whole conduct convinced 
me that he was unable to grant me this 



266 

indulgence, notwithstanding the strong 
plea of health which M. Peterson did 
not fail to urge. I however received 
hopes of obtaining permission to return 
to Tobolsk whenever my health required 
it. 

As soon as I began to be free from the 
interruptions of visits, I set about my 
Memorial to the Emperor, and as I had 
already sketched the outline, the task was 
not difficult. It contained eighteen ar- 
ticles, and it is a duty I owe to my re- 
putation, as well as to my wife and chil- 
dren, to insert an extract in this place, 
that my innocence and the whole tenor 
of my conduct may be exhibited in the 
strongest light. It includes a short sketch 
of my life, both public and private, upon 
which so many falsehoods, or at least so 
many ambiguous stories have been uni- 
versally propagated. 



26l 



Memorial in behalf of the unfortunate 
Kotzebue, with corroborating Deem 
?nents contained in the Papers which have 
been taken from him. Translated fr 

the original French.* 

ARTICLE I. 

KOTZEBUE, a native of Weimar, son to 
the late Counsellor of Legation, Kotzebue. 
was called to Petersburg at the age of eighteen, 
at the instance of Count de Gorz, a friend of 
his father's, then Envoy from the Court of 
Berlin. He was appointed Secretary to M. 
de Bawr, Engineer- General, whom he served 
with probity in many affairs of importance, 
and with whom he continued till the decease 
of the General. 

Proof. — The General recommended him in 
his will to the late Empress, and that Prin- 
cess, by virtue of an immenoi-ukaserf named 

* A part of this was drawn up at Kurgan ; its sequel, 
and the subsequent contents o'f this book, I did not compose 
till a later period. 

t A special ukase 3 that is, one signed by the Empress's 
* <n hand. 



262 

him a titular Counsellor, and ordered him to 
be employed in the Administration of Revel, 
at that time newly organized. 

ARTICLE II. 

Kotzebue acted in the capacity of Assessor 
in the Court of Appeals in Revel, in 1183, and 
exercised that office during two years to the 
satisfaction of the superior Judges. 

Proof, — Count Browne, the Governor-Ge- 
neral, recommended him to the vacant place 
of President of the Magistracy, a station which 
confers the rank of Lieutenant-Colonel, and 
the Senate thereupon appointed him in 1735. 

ARTICLE III. 

Kotzebue filled this office for ten successive 
years, without incurring the least reproach. 

First Proof. — When Kotzebue, at the end 
of ten years, was obliged to ask his dismission 
on account of the impaired state of his health, 
he received it with advanced rank. The ukase 
to this effect is among his sealed-up papers. 

Second Proof. — A certificate was signed by 
the Governor of Revel, relative to the irre- 
proachable manner in which he executed the 



263 

duties of his office. The original instrument 
is among the papers which are sealed up. 

ARTICLE IV. 

Kotzebue retired to the country in 1795, 
and built a small villa called Friedenthal, at 
the distance offorty-eightverstesfrom Narva, 
a spot on which he resided till the end of the 
year 1797, in the midst of his family, and in 
the service of the muses. He was then in- 
vited to Vienna, as Manager of the Court 
Theatre ; the terms being very advantageous, 
he left his villa, and considered the sacrifice 
he made as an offering due to his children. 
He had asked and obtained the Monarch's 
consent. 

Proof. — The passport which the Governor 
of Revel delivered to him in virtue of superior 
orders. 

ARTICLE V. 

Kotzebue resided at Vienna, but still retain- 
ed his Livonian villa, hoping one day to re- 
turn thither. He acquitted himself in all his 
duties with zeal and probity. 

Proof. — The flattering certificate of the 
theatrical Directory. The original is among 
the seized papers. 



264 

ARTICLE VI. 

The Emperor Francis II. was well satisfied 
with his service and conduct. 

Proof, — He granted him his dismission, 
which on several accounts he had solicited, 
but retained him in his service as dramatic 
writer to the Court Theatre, with a pension 
for life of one thousand florins a year, with 
leave to expend the same wherever he should 
please. The original decree, together with a 
letter written by Count Colloredo, make a 
part of the papers under sequestration. 

AP.TiCLE VII. 

Kotzebue, not satisfied with the above ht>v 
nourable certificate, as it regarded only his 
dramatic services, thought it incumbent on 
•him to procure a testimony of his conduct, as 
the subject of a monarchical State, before he 
left Vienna. For this purpose, he applied to 
Count de Saurau, Minister of the Secret Po- 
lice, and obtained from him the most satisfac- 
tory answer. 

Proof. — The Minister's original note, toge- 
ther with an official letter from Aulic Coun- 
sellor Schilling* are both among his seized 
papers. 



265 

ARTICLE VIII. 

Kotzebue left Vienna, and went to reside 
at Weimar, in order to be near his mother. 
He purchased a house and garden in the neigh- 
bourhood, at which he resided twelve months, 
known and esteemed at the Ducal Court, 
which he had often the honour to frequent. 

Proof. — A letter from the reigning Duchess 
of Weimar to the Grand Duchess Elizabeth, 
which may be found among his papers. He ap- 
peals besides to the testimony of the reigning 
Duke, and to that of the Duchess Dowager* 

ARTICLE IX. 

Kotzebue, as well to gratify the wishes of 
his wife as to embrace his two sons, who have 
the honour to be educated in the Cadet-corps 
at Petersburg, resolved to undertake a journey 
to Russia : His d-uty as dramatic writer to the 
Emperor of Germany obliged him to apply 
for a passport, which was accordingly granted. 

Proof. — The original instrument is among 
' his papers ; and it shews at the same time that 
he was bona fide in the service of his Imperial 
and Royal Majesty. 



266 



ARTICLE X. 

Kotzebue applied for a passport to his Ma- 
jesty the Emperor of Russia, and obtained it. 
[Here the writer entered into all the neces- 
sary details.] 

Proof. — The original Ielter from Baron de 
Kriidener* 

ARTICLE XI. 

Kotzebue commenced his journey, and was 
arrested on the frontiers of Prussia. This un- 
expected blow alarmed him : he however con- 
soled himself with the notion, that a prudent 
precaution, under the circumstances of the 
times, might have occasioned this measure. 
Fully relying on his own innocence, he con- 
soled his family and proceded to Mittau. 

Proof. — He appeals to the testimony of the 
officer who escorted him thither. 

ARTICLE XII. 

At Mittau he was informed that he must be 
conducted to Petersburg, To this order he 
submitted with a good grace ; but he soon dis- 
covered that his guards were dragging him to 
Siberia. He then demanded, in an agony of 
despair, what crime he had committed, his 



267 

conscience being pure of all crime towards 
God and his Sovereign. 

ARTICLE XIII. 

But may it not be possible that, like many 
others, he might have been an avowed parti- 
san of the Revolutionary System. — No. 

First Proof. — Two of his sons are in the 
Cadet-corps at Petersburg ; a third is in the 
Cadet-engineers at Vienna. These are so 
many hostages of his loyalty, which he has 
voluntarily delivered up. 

Second Proof. — The bulk of his estate, with 
the addition of that settled on his wife, is in 
Russia, and he has never attempted to dispose 
of it. 

Third Proof — Had he been a man of re- 
volutionary principles, it is natural to con- 
clude that he would have left Vienna to have 
visited France : he remained, however, conti- 
nually at Weimar, at which place he received 
his pension from Vienna. 

Fourth Proof. — In the year 1790, he was 
one of the first to satirize the horrid outrages 
of the Revolutionists, in a Comedy entitled 
The Club of Female Jacobins. In 1792, he 



268 

wrote a treatise on nobility, which, although 
it may boast of nothing interesting, except 
the subject, at least exhibits the sentiments 
of the writer on that subject.* 

Fifth Proof. — It is more than a year ago, 
that, in a work entitled, On my Residence at 
Vienna, he declared publicly that he preferred 
the monarchical system of government to any 
other ; and that, unless he should become a 
knave or a madman, he never would adopt 
the system of the present day, An author, 



* A drowning man is glad to snatch at a straw. 
I am better aware than any one can be that this 
book is good for nothing ; and I am sorry I ven- 
tured upon the task of writing it. I yielded in this 
instance to the ^particular intreaties of a man of the 
first consequence, who is much in favour of the 
Sovereign.' My situation at that time compelled 
me to undertake a subject which I had never, or at 
least very lately, considered with any degree of 
attention. If the world knew the motives which 
often induce an author to take up the pen, the 
judgment it passes upon their works would be 
more charitable than it commonly is. 



269 

well known throughout Europe, would cer- 
tainly not have published such sentiments in 
evidence against himself, if he had intended 
ever to have renounced them. 

Sixth Proof. — In 1795 he presented to the 
Empress a plan for the establishment of an 
University at Dopart, and among other mo- 
tives which he alledged in favour of its esta- 
blishment, the following may be found : 
namely, that the young men would be in less 
danger of imbibing principles of a seditious 
nature. 

ARTICLE XIV. 

Has Kotzebue had any connections with 
suspected persons ? — No. 

Proof. — Let the book which is to be found 
among his papers be referred to ; it contains 
copies of all his letters of importance. 

ARTICLE XV. 

Can it be surmised that his income arose 
from an impure source ? He who surmises this, 
is exceedingly mistaken. 

Proof. — The aboye-mentioned book, in 
which his receipts are particularized. 



2JO 
AkTICLE XVI. 

He has written, perhaps, on political sub- 
jects ? — No. 

Proof. — In the aforesaid book may be seen 
the catalogue of his literary labours, 

AR.TICLE XVII. 

Can it be supposed that he does not enter- 
tain all due respect for the Emperor ? — The 
contrary is positively the case, 

Proof. — In the year 1796, he converted a 
generous trait of that Monarch's conduct into 
a drama, under the title of "The Emperor's 
Head Coachman. This work, perhaps, is be- 
neath its subject, but still it manifests the sen- 
timents of the author. 

ARTICLE XVIII. 

Is Kotzebue an immoral man ? And ought 
lie not to be banished from society ? — No. 

First Proof. — On the perusal of the journal 
of his occupations, and of all his actions, 
(which are contained in the same book) what 
does the reader find ? That he planted a tree 
on his wife's birth-day ; that he gave a fete 
thampetre on the cutting of a child's first tooth. 



271 

It will there be found, that he uniformly 
placed his happiness in the endearments of 
domestic life. 

Second Proof. — His almanac, after the 
plan of Franklin, for the purpose of moral 
improvement, is a proof of his sincere love 
of virtue. From the tenor of his confessions, 
it will be seen at first view, that they were 
made only for himself, and that he never 
could have imagined they would have fallen, 
during his life-time, into the hands of stran- 
gers. They may represent him as a weak, 
but not as a wicked man : People who know 
him will bear witness that he is an affection- 
ate husband and a good father ; qualities sure- 
ly very foreign to immorality. 

In a word, Kotzebue has proved that his 
public conduct, during twenty years, is ac- 
knowledged to have been irreproachable ; he 
has proved that he has never manifested prin- 
ciples subversive of good order ; that his con- 
nections have been unexceptionable ; that he 
never h<<s written on the subject of politics ; 
that he has ever entertained due sentiments of 
respect for the person of the Emperor j that 



2J2 

his happiness has invariably rested in the bo- 
som of his family, and that he has been a 
lover of peace and virtue. By what involun- 
tary fault then has he had the misfortune to 
incur your Majesty's displeasure ? Of this he 
is totally ignorant. He has in vain endea- 
voured to conjecture the cause ; unless it be 
that some malevolent person, some secret 
enemy, has perhaps detached separate pas- 
sages from his writings, and exhibited them 
in an unfavourable point of view. If this pre- 
sumption be well-founded, he confines the, 
whole of his petition to one single favour, that 
of being allowed an opportunity of explana- 
tion. 

Your Majesty must be aware that nothing, 
can be written to which malevolent interpre- 
tations may not attribute evil designs. Kotze- 
bue may have been mistaken ; it is the fate 
of every man, He may, like others, have in- 
troduced a word without due reflection, or 
given to a phrase a doubtful turn ; but he 
sweats before the throne of the monarch, be- 
fore that of the Eternal, that he has always 
strenuously endeavoured to tread in the paths. 



»73 

of virtue. If he has unknowingly swerved from 
them, he has been severely punished, and the 
paternal hand which has inflicted the blow 
will surely raise up the penitent who bewails 
his fault. May your Majesty, who possesses 
a feeling heart, contemplate for a moment 
the horror of your petitionees situation. His 
wife far advanced in her pregnancy, perhaps 
dying of a broken heart ; for her the world 
has no longer any happiness in store ; her 
children will soon fall into indigence ; her 
husband's reputation, his honour being tar- 
nished, who will not conclude that he had 
been guilty of some crime ? After an illness 
of twelve months duration, he Unds himself 
deprived of every thing, condemned to a dread- 
ful climate, where sorrow and inevitable sick- 
ness will soon put an end to his existence. A 
beloved husband, the father of six children, 
abandoned by the world, must expire far from 
the sight of his family ! A severe doom for 
an innocent man ! No, Paul the Just still lives ; 
he will restore honour, and life and tranquillity 
to his unhappy petitioner ; he will restore him 
to his afflicted family !" 
vol. i. s 



274 

Such is the substailce of the Memorial 
which I intended to present to the Em- 
peror. Just as I had concluded it, the 
Counsellor happened to come into my 
room, and told me that he was going 
to the Governor. I commissioned him 
to inquire at what hour his Excellency 
would favour me with an audience. He 
soon returned with the following an- 
swer, which astonished the bearer ex- 
ceedingly : That from five in the morn- 
ing till eleven at night the Governor was 
at my service. My companion could 
not possibly conceive w^hy such civility 
was shewn to me, an exile, while he him- 
self, though an Aulic Counsellor, was 
treated with neglect. 

What expression shall I employ to ex- 
hibit to the eyes of the world the ge- 
nerosity of the beneficent Governor! 
It is impossible to express either the 
value of his considerate goodness to me, 



*7$ 

or the grateful feelings which such libe- 
ral and humane conduct excited in my 
breast. How differently might he have 
exercised his power! He might have 
sent me to Beresow, upon the shores of 
the Frozen Sea, where, in the warmest 
months of summer, the earth, for more 
than a foot beneath its surface, is* al- 
ways frozen ; yet he chose for the place 
of my residence the mildest climate, 
and for my fellow inhabitants, the most 
sociable people in all his government. 
During my stay at Tobolsk, he might 
have consigned me to sorrow, to want, 
to solitude ; instead of which, he in* 
vited me every day to his table, and 
loaded me with kindness, in the face 
of two senators,* sent thither to in- 



* These two senators were M. de LewaschorF, 
and M. de Lapuchin, whose generous conduct to 
me is fox ever imprinted on my heart. 



zy6 

spect his government, and make report 
of his conduct. He permitted me like- 
wife to choose a servant who might be 
acquainted with some language in which 
I could explain myself. The choice in- 
deed was soon made ; the only man in 
Tobolsk qualified, being an Italian, o£ 
the name of Rossi, (commonly called 
Russ) who had resided there for twenty 
years. Having served on board the 
fleet at Cherson, he had been concerned 
in a plot, with several of his comrades, 
to murder the captain, and deliver the 
vessel into the hands of the Turks. The 
conspiracy was happily discovered, and 
my conspirator sent, by order of Prince 
Potemkin, into Siberia. He was inrol- 
led among the peasantry, and paid the 
accustomed tax ; but received permis- 
sion to come to town and earn his bread 
in what way he pleased, and he generally 
contrived to gain a good livelihood. This 



jnan was indeed incredibly expert : At 
one time he would make sausages, at ano- 
ther shoes ; he would act in the capa- 
city of a servant to travellers, play the 
pimp, or attend his employers through 
the whole extent of the government. 
He had an artful countenance, with a 
keen eye ; in short he seemed fit for any 
thing. The Governor warned me of 
his being an accomplished sharper, and 
having cheated all his masters. What 
was to be done ? He could speak French 
as well as Russian ; he knew the whole 
country, and had been every where ; he 
could make bread p.nd dress victuals ; 
he was just what I wanted, and I hired 
him for three roubles and a half per 
month, and his board. The Governor 
extended his kindness so far as to allow 
me to keep him in my service at Kur- 
gan, a favour of such moment, that had 
it been known at Petersburg, he might 



278 

in consequence have forfeited his post. 
It is true, that the name of Rossi not 
having been inserted in the passport, 
the Governor was able in some measure 
to connive at the circumstance. When 
we were on our journey, the fellow 
knew every village we passed through, 
and insinuated himself every where in 
the most happy manner. 



END OF vox. I. 



T. Gillet, Printer, -Salifbury Square, 



-v. Vol. 2. 




r> 



/ n//,' /,v a -/J aAA///* !////;//;>/ 



THE 
MOST REMARKABLE YEAR 

OF 

THE LIFE 

of 

AUGUSTUS VON KOTZEBUE; 

w 

CONTAINING AN ACCOUNT OF 

HIS EXILE INTO SIBERIA, 

AND OF 

The other extraordinary Events which happened to him 
IN RUSSIA. 



WRITTEN BY HIMSELF 



lNSLATEP FROM THE GERMAN, BY 

THE REV. BENJAMIN BERESFORD, 

English Lecturer to the Queen of Prussia. 
IN THREE VOLUMES. 

vol. ir. 



Eonfcm : 

PRINTED FOR RICHARD PHILLIPS, 

No. 71, St. PauPs Church- vaid. 

By T. Gillet, Salisbury-$qi:are. 



1802* 



TkE 

MOST REMARKABLE YEAR 

OF MY LIFE, 

DURING the early part of my resi- 
dence at Tobolsk, I confess I en- 
joyed unbounded liberty. I visited and 
received visits, when, and as often as I 
pleased. I was seldom without friends 
when at home, and I often visited my 
friend KiniakofF. He lived in a very 
agreeable style, and had a collection of 
choice books, among which were most 
of the best French authors. I had also 
the privilege of walking about the streets, 
and even beyond the gates, at my plea- 
sure. 



But all this indulgence was suddenly 
^withdrawn. One morning the Governor 
sent for me, and in the kindest manner 
expressed his uneasiness on my account. 
" Your arrival/' said he, " has attracted 
much notice here, and it becomes still 
more generally the topic of conversa- 
tion ; I cannot therefore consider you as 
a person of no consequence, and I must 
be the more circumspect as your Coun- 
sellor does not yet think of departing ; 
I fear, indeed, he stays to be a spy upon 
your conduct. The senators too may be 
displeased that you are treated with so 
much indulgence. It appears necessary, 
for our mutual interest, that you should 
live under a little more restraint ; I beg 
therefore 'this generous man could com- 
mand, and yet he begged) that you will 
receive no visits, except those of your 
physician ; nor visit any house except his 



and mine : at every hour of the day my 
door will be open to you." I mtreated 
him to make an exception with reap ect to 
Kiniakoff. He shrugged up his shoulders, 
acknowledged the merit of that voun^ 
man, and said, Ci that he was himself fond 
of his company, and was convinced of his 
innocence ; yet," continued he, " he is 
looked upon with suspicion, and that is 
sufficient to injure you." I thanked him 
for the goodness he had evinced, in thus 
explaining his motives, and without say- 
ing another word, yielded to his argu- 
ments. 

Hitherto I had no other guard than a 
subaltern officer, named Iwanowksch, 
a good old man, but very stupid. 
remained in the anti-chamber, where he 
was almost always asleep. A younger 
-man was now added to mv guard ; he 
gave me, however, no more trouble 



6 

than the other had done : both of them 
waited on me, boiled my water, and 
went to market for me ; but they were 
very assiduous in keeping off every visU 
tor, except the physician, and when I 
went out, one of them attended me. It , 
was easily perceived that they were or- 
dered to examine closely into my con- 
duct ; however, excepting paying visits, 
I could walk out whenever I pleased, 
both within and without the city, en- 
tirely unmolested. 

By means of my Italian knave I was 
enabled to correspond with my good 
friend ; we often met under the arcades 
in the great square ; and while the by- 
standers would imagine we were both 
employed in looking at the various 
articles placed there for sale, we took the 
opportunity of exchanging a few words. 

We were indeed under no fear of be- 



7 

ing betrayed : the unfortunate exile is 
sure of the public compassion. Several 
tradesmen, the first time I went to them, 
whispered in my ear : " Do you want to 
send a letter ? give it me, and I will take 
care to forward it." This trouble they 
take upon themselves without the least 
interested motive, without even receiv- 
ing the smallest recompence. The name 
which they give the exiles seems to have 
been dictated by the tei|derest senti- 
ments of compassion, and a full con- 
viction cf their innocence — they call 
them unfortunates (neschtschastii). Who 
is that man ? they have asked ; an un- 
fortunate, would be the answer ! and I 
never heard them call an exile by any 
other name, much less by any humili- 
ating, denomination implying guilt. 

Foreigners have been led to entertain 
such erroneous, or at least imperfect 



8 

ideas of what it called being exiled to 
Siberia, that I think it necessary to 
throw some light upon that subject. 
\./>Xhe exiles are divided into several 
classes very different from each other : 
The first class is composed of male- 
factors legally convicted of the most 
atrocious crimes, and whose sentences 
have been confirmed by the senate. 
These criminals are doomed to work in 
/the mines of Nertschinsk ; whither they 
atie conducted in chains and on foot. 
Their sufferings are worse than death, 
as they have commonly undergone the 
chastisement of the knout, and have had 
their nostrils slit. 

The second class 4 comprises that de- 
scription of criminals, who, though less 
guilty than the first, have been juridi- 
cally condemned to banishment. These 
,are enrolled among the peasantry, of 



9 

bondmen ; their names are changed to 
those of the boors among whom they 
are settled, and they are emnloved as cui- 
tivators of the soil. We met with many 
of this description with s^lit .nostrils : 
these criminals, however, have it in their 
power, if they are at all diligent, to gain 
something for themselves, and thereby 
render their condition more tolerable. 

The third class consists of such as the 
law has actually condemned, but sen- 
tenced only to banishment, without the 
addition of any infamous and oppressive 
punishment. If they are of noble birth, 
they do not lose their rank. They are 
allowed to live without molestation on 
the spot assigned to them, and they are 
permitted to receive their usual incomes ; 
or in case they have none, the crown 
furnishes them with twenty or thirty 
copecks a day, or more. 



10 



The fourth and last class includes 
those who, without any legal process, are 
exiled in an arbitrary manner at the 
mere pleasure of the Sovereign, They 
are generally confounded with the third 
class. These may write to their families 
or to the Emperor, but the letters are 
, first perused by the Governor, and after- 
wards forwarded through his means. 
Sometimes exiles of this class are con- 
fined in fortresses and kept in chains. 
Instances of this sort were however very 
rare, and under the mild and merciful 
reign of Alexander I. this class has en- 
tirely disappeared. 

I know not to which of the two last 
classes my fellow traveller, the Lieute- 
nant-Colonel from Rasan, belongs. His 
destiny, however, seems to be very se- 
vere ; for although, on his arrival at To- 
bolsk, the Governor gave him hopes that 



II 

he would be allowed to take up his resi- 
dence in that city 5 and although encou- 
raged by these insinuations, he had be- 
gun to make arrangements, and to fur- 
nish himself with clothes and several 
other necessaries, he received an order 
two days after to proceed instantly to 
Irkutzk. Two hours only were allowed 
him to prepare for his departure, and 
he has not been since heard of. 

He was scarcely permuted to get back 
his clothes in their half-finished state 
from the taylor. The Governor, doubt- 
less, had received very particular orders, 
in this instance, or he would have acted 
more according to the suggestions of his 
well-known humanity. 

Assisted by the kindness of a few 
friends, and some compassionate and 
obliging tradesmen of the place, I had 
been able to send off ten different letters 



I? 

to my wife,* the contents of which I 
shall notice hereafter. The hours which 
were devoted to her were the only ones 
that afforded one drop of comfort to 
mingle in my cup of sorrow ; yet to 
my great surprise, I still preserved my 
health, and I determined to divert my 
grief in the best manner I could. 

The Counsellor, after the first two or 
three days of my residence at Tobolsk, 
had quitted my lodgings to live with a 
friend. I felt quite happy on his de- 
parture, as it enabled me to devote my- 
self without interruption to my own 
thoughts. I employed the greater part 
of the mornings in perusing the story of 
my misfortunes. Instead of common 
ink I made use of Indian, which is good 
and in great plenty in this country. To- 
wards noon I usually walked out, or 

. . Most of these letters were duly received* 



*3 

climbed the rocks that surround the 
City, and h the totfrents have worn 

into a variety of picturesque forms. 
From them I surveyed the immense ex- 
panse of w:.ter that d^vr:ed its environ?, 
and the thick fore- tdh -kirted the 

horizon on every side. ye too 

caught every sail that glided along, and 
my imagination peopled the hark v 
my family. I c almost every day 

with the Got^iilor, sometiu kh Au- 

lic Counsellor ) on, and rarely at 

home. I never quoted the company of 
M. de Kuscheieft v x feeling some 

alleviation of lily gttef: his delicacy and 
sensibility found many an avenue to my 
heart, and enliveited me vith ho: ■:. 

He was hfrnsetf SFat ; Vom heir. y^y. 

Often, when seated besrefe d< th other in 
his summer-; K\ e r ast c > over 

the vast expanse of waters, and contain- 



14 

plated the immense forests beyond them. 
One day, giving free utterance to his 
feelings, he said to me, stretching forth 
his hand, " Do you see those forests ? 
they extend eleven hundred verstes to- 
wards the shores of the Frozen Sea. The 
foot of man has not yet trodden them j 
they are solely inhabited by wild beasts. 
My government contains more square 
miles than Germany, France, and Tur- 
key in Europe, put together ; yet, what 
advantage does it afford me ? Scarcely a 
day passes without producing some new 
spectacle of misery, either solitary or 
otherwise, with which I cannot, must 
not, condole, while the distresses of the 
sufferers rend my heart. A heavy re- 
sponsibility lies upon me ; a mere acci- 
dent, which no human prudence or 
power could either foresee or avert, a 
secret information, would be sufficient 



1 S 



to deprive me of my employment, my 
honour, and my liberty ! And what in- 
demnity have I for all this ? A desert 
country, a severe climate, and continual 
intercourse with suffering and unhappy 
fellow-creatures !" 

He has long been desirous of his dis- 
mission, but has not yet ventured to 
ask for it. May he never do it ? What 
will become of the wretched exiles, when 
he who was their brother and their 
friend, shall be no longer with them ? 
For all his sacrifices may he find ample 
recompense in the approbation of his 
own heart! When this man shall one 
day present himself before the tribunal 
of God, surrounded by all the innocent 
or unfortunate people whose sufferings 
he has mitigated, with whose tears, when 
he could not wipe them away, he has so 
often mingled his own ; and when all of 
them shall lift up their voices to bless 



feim,— what higher felicity than this can 
heaven itself bestow ? 

Towards the evening I commonly 
took a turn in the town, or to the great 
square. The city is large ; most of tfie 
streets are broad and straight ; and the 
houses chiefly constructed of wood; 
those built of stone are commodious and 
in the modern taste. The churches, 
which are very numerous, are all heavily 
designed. The streets are paved, or ra- 
ther planked with thick timber, which 
is far cleaner and much more agreeable 
than pebbles. The town is traversed 
length-ways by navigable canals, over 
which are bridges, kept in good repair. 
The market-piace {the basar) is very 
spacious, where, besides provisions and 
things of the first necessity, a great quan- 
tity of Chinese and European goods are 
exposed to sale. These articles are ex« 
tremely dear, but the price of all kinds 



1? 



' 



of provisions is very moderate. This 



r^ 



square is crowded incessantly with peo- 
ple of all nations, particularly Russians 
and Tartars, Kirgists and Calmucks. 
The fish market afforded a very novel 
spectacle to me. Great quantities of dif- 
ferent kinds of fish, which I had hitherto 
known merely by description, were ex- 
posed, both dead and alive, in tubs and 
barges, for sale. Esterlets {aapenser rut- 
kenus) sold for a mere trifle. The huso. 
or royal fish, (aapenser huso) the si/urc. 
(silurus giants) &c. with caviar of every 
colour, were equally reasonable. Had it 
not been for the disagreeable smells in 
this market, I should often have loitered 
there. 

. Curiosity sometimes led me to the 
play-house. The building is spacious, 
and fitted up with a row of boxes. The 
greater number of these boxes belong to 
particular people, and every proprietor 

VOL. II. b 



i8 

having a right to ornament his own box 
in what manner he pleases, the variety 
of decorations was very striking. The 
balustrade was covered in many places 
with rich silks of very fanciful colours. 
At the back of the boxes were girandole 
mirrors. The whole, it is true, had an 
Asiatic appearance ; but, at first sight, it 
did not fail to produce a good effect. 
The orchestra was execrable. /The com- 
pany of performers was made up of 
exiles.". Arhong the number of these 
was the wife of my worthy Rossi, a na- 
tive of Revel, who, having been trans- 
ported to Siberia for some crime, found 
a suitable husband in the person of my 
valet. She now plays the parts of mo- 
thers and matrons on the boards of the 
national theatre of Tobolsk. The deco- 
rations, the dresses, the acting, the sing- 
ing, were all below criticism. One even- 
ing when I was present, they acted the 



.19 

Dober Saldat (the Good Soldier). I for- 
get the name of the other piece I saw ; 
but neither of the times I was there was 
I able to stay more than a quarter of an 
hour. The admittance to the best places 
costs no more than thirty copecks, or 
nearly fifteen French sols. 

Misanthropy and Repentance, the Na- 
tural Son, and some othcT of my pieces, 
had been represented with much ap- 
plause. They were getting up the Vir- 
gin of the Sun, but the dresses and dc- 
corations demanding an expence beyond 
the manager's revenues, they had deter- 
mined to supply the deficiency by mak- 
ing a collection among the principal in- 
habitants of the place. 
$ There is likewise a club at Tobolsk (I 
believe they call it the Casins), kept by 
an Italian, whose nostrils are slit. He 
had been guilty of murder, and having 
sturdily undergone the discipline of the 



knout, he gained his livelihood in this 
manner, I never entered this house. 

During my stay here, a ball and a 
masquerade had been twice given in ho- 
nour of the two deputies from the se- 
nate. I was invited to both in due form ; 
but being unwilling to make a shew of 
myself and my misfortunes, I did not 
accept the invitations, and can therefore 
say nothing of the fair sex of Tobolsk. 
Except the excellent family of Aulic 
Counsellor Pat'erson, and the beautiful 
and amiable daughter of Colonel Kra- 
mer, I scarcely saw a woman of condi- 
tion in the place. 

I should have walked about the en- 
' virons of the town more frequently than 
I did, if the insupportable heat during 
day-time, and the gnats, still more into- 
lerable, at night, had not hindered me 
from taking that recreation. Not a day 
passed in which Reaumer's thermometer 



21 

was not from 26 to 28 degrees, We 
had regularly five or six hurricanes every 
four-and-twenty hours, which proceed- 
ing from all points of the compass, seem- 
ed like, a war of win ds."\ There were 
tremendous showers of rain, which, how- 
ever, very little if at all refreshed the 
air. x Notwithstanding all this heat, na- 
ture is very sparing in her gifts here ; 
and I did not see a single fruit-bearing 
tree. Y The Governor's garden, indeed, 
which is certainly the finest in all the 
country, exhibited some in painting, 
against the plank walls that form its en- 
closure. In fact the earden contained 
scarcely any thing* but the black aJ 
(rhamnus frangula) ; the Siberian pea- 
tree (robihia cardgonaj ; and the birch 
[betula alba). This last tree is very com- 
mon all over the country, but it is slen- 
der and dwarfish. At a distance, a stran- 
ger would take a grove of old birch 



22 



trees for a cluster of young European 
plants. The alder is the favourite tree 
with the inhabitants of Tobolsk ; they 
plant it in the streets before their houses; 
they prefer it on account of its sweet- 
scented blossom, and seem satisfied with 
it for want of something better. There , 
were likewise a few green and red goose- 
berry bushes in the Governor's garden, 
with various kinds of cabbages, and a 
few cucumber plants in flower. X Some 
apple-trees are also to be found in the 
neighbourhood of Tiumen, which bear 
fruit about the size of walnuts. 

If the inhabitants of this country are 
little indebted to nature for fruits, she 
has abundantly compensated for that de- 
fect in the article of grain. The Siberian 
buck- wheat (polygonum iartaricuni), so 
well known in Europe, reproduces itself 
without any kind of culture, and re- 
quires no other labour than that of reap- 



ing it. Every sort of grain grows in as- 
tonishing abundance. The grass too is 
thick and succulent : -the soil is in gene- 
ral of a dark colour, loose, and requires 
no manure.; The peasants, too indolent 
to carry away by degrees the dung of 
their cow-houses and stables, are often 
thrown into a very singtilat kind of em- 

rassmentT My friend Paterson has 
assured me, that frequently having oc- 
casion to travel about the country as a 
ian, he one day came to a village, 
the inhabitants of which were employed 
in pulling down their houses in order to 
rebuild them on another spot ; as it was 
more difticult to remove the enormous 
dunghills which surrounded the houses, 
than the houses themselves, 

i the same decree that the heat is in- 
supportable in summer, so is the cold 
during winter ; and the thermometer 

en falls to forty degrees below the 



2 4 

cypher. M. Paterson mentioned an ex- 
periment which he makes every year : 
he freezes quicksilver, which he carves 
into small figures with a pen-knife, and 
sends them in snow to the Governor. 
<qf"This severe climate is however con- 
ducive to health. My physician knew 
of only two prevalent diseases : the one 
a disease too common in most parts of 
the world ; the other a catarrhal fever, 
to which the inhabitants are liable on 
account of the sudden changes in the 
temperature of the air ; yet, by proper 
attention, particularly at night-fall, a 
man may attain to a healthy old age in 
Siberia. 

The evenings I employed in reading. 
My friends Paterson and Kiniakoff had 
furnished me with some good authors ; 
and in this country I valued them far 
above their worth. 

I still flattered myself with the hopes 



*5 

of -being allowed to remain at Tobolsk. 
Tire Governor not having mentioned 
my removal, my friend conjectured that 
he only waited for the departure of the 
two Senators and the Counsellor, to 
grant me a formal permission to stay. 
The Senators indeed set off for Irkutzk, 
but the Counsellor still remained. I 
have since learned that his stay was 
merely occasioned by a want of money, 
and that he had been waiting* the deter- 
mination of a tradesman of Tobolsk, 
whom he had offered to take with him 
free of post expences, on condition that 
he would defray the rest. However na- 
tural the solution of this enigma may 
appear, it was difficult to divine it at that 
time ; and it is not to be wondered at 
that both the Governor and myself 
should have taken him for a spy. 

The fourteen days, which had been 
granted me, had now nearly expired. I 



26 

waited on the Governor one Sunday 
morning to pay him my respects ; as 
the exiles of the third and fourth classes 
keep up a custom of presenting them- 
selves before him on that day in regi- 
mentals, but without swords. The Go- 
vernor drew me on one side, and in- 
formed me that it was necessary I should 
prepare for leaving Tobolsk on the mor- 
row, as he could not, for reasons already 
known to me, allow me to remain there 
any longer. I was much dejected on 
hearing this, but submitted with a good 
grace, contenting myself with entreating 
him to indulge me with a delay of two 
days, for the purpose of procuring se- 
veral things I stood in need of, and 
which were not to be obtained at Kur- 
gan ; and to dispose of my carriage (for 
which I had no further occasion), in or- 
der to recruit my exhausted purse. The 
Governor granted my request in the 



** 

2 7- 



most obliging manner, and I instantly 
began my preparations, that I might run 
no risk of trespassing on his goodness. 

The most opulent tradesman in the 
town, whose name I forget, had offered 
me a few days before a hundred and fifty 
roubles for my carriage, which, as the 
reader has seen, had cost me more than 
three times that sum ; and I had of 
course refused to part with it at such a 
price. Being now, however, obliged 
to dispose of it, I would have willingly 
struck a bargain with him on his for- 
mer terms, but he had the effrontery to 
bid me twenty-five roubles less. I was 
obliged to take that sum, and this trans- 
action did not vex me so much as it 
shocked the worthy Governor, who ex- 
pressed his indignation in the strongest 
terms, and seriously recommended me 
to turn the anecdote into a little farce, 
which he promised, if I would give it 



28 

him in French, he would himself trans- 
late, and have it brought on the stage at 
Tobolsk. Alas ! I was but ill disposed 
to write plays. 

I purchased sugar, tea, coffee, paper, 
pens, and such articles, but what I most 
lamented was the want of books ; for 
how could the winter be passed in Sibe- 
ria without reading ? The good Coun- 
sellor Paterson furnished me with such 
as he possessed, but his library was 
chiefly composed of medical works, and 
a few volumes of voyages and travels, 
which I had read. I was however able 
to give my friend Kiniakoff notice of my 
approaching departure and my want of 
books : he wrote me word that at mid- 
night, while the guard was asleep, I 
might expect him at my window. He 
came ; and for three successive nights 
he brought me some of the choicest 
volumes of his collection ; and among 



2 9 

others the works of Seneca, which after- 
wards proved a great source of consola- 
tion to me. 

I wrote to my wife and to about a 
dozen generous friends, resident in Rus- 
sia and Germany. All these letters I en* 
closed in one parcel, directed to my old 
and trusty friend Graumaun, a merchant 
at Petersburg, and consigned it to the 
care of Alexander Schulkins, with a pro- 
mise that he should receive fifty roubles 
at the hands of my friend on its delivery. 
This seemed to me the best manner of 
securing the due delivery of it, and the 
event has shewn that I judged rightly. 

Every thing being ready for my de- 
parture, I waited on the Governor, and 
having learnt that a subaltern was to 
accompany me to Kurgan, I requested 
him to allow honest Iwanowitcsh, not- 
withstanding his advanced age, to be 
the man. M. de Kuscheleff, who re- 



3° 

fused me nothing in his power, granted 
me this favour. To this he added others* 
He furnished me with letters of recom- 
mendation to the principal people of Kur- 
gan, presented me with a chest of fine 
tea, which was highly acceptable to me, 
and promised to send me every week the 
Frankfort Journal, which he took in re- 
gularly. He kept his word ; and, as 1 
have since learned, risked much by his 
complaisance. 

My kibick, an old worn-out cart, 
which, however, cost me thirty roubles, 
was now loaded. I took a cold and for- 
mal leave of the Counsellor, whose de- 
parture was to take place the day after 
mine, and which gave me so much the 
more pleasure, as he was to be the bearer 
of my memorial to the Emperor. He 
went away by no means satisfied with 
the Governor, who did not once invite 
him to his table, 



3 1 



It was on the 13th of June, at twa 
o'clock in the afternoon, that I walked 
with great reluctance to the banks of 
the Tobol, my kibick being already on 
board. On my way thither, a singular 
adventure took place./ 1 was accosted by 
a well-dressed Russian woman, and load- 
ed with compliments on my plays. These 
compliments appeared to me to be ill- 
timed, and, after making her a slight 
bow, I was passing on. She stopped me, 
however, and announced herself as one 
of the company of the town comedians, 
and informed me that she was studying 
the part of the High Priestess in the Vir- 
gin of the Sun ; but being ignorant of 
the proper dress of such a character, she 
begged I would describe it to her. At 
any other time I should have laughed at 
her, but my departure having thrown 
me into an ill-humour, I Was quite 
angry, and told her with a frown that a 



3* 
man banished into Siberia could have no 
inclination to trouble his head about 
Peruvian dresses ; and begging her to 
chuse a robe according to her own taste, 
I left her in an abrupt manner. 

The common road to Kurgan lies 
through a small town called Juluterski, 
the distance is little more than four hun- 
dred and twenty verstes, but the inunda- 
tions of the Tobol obliged us to fall back 
at Tiumen, which lies on the frontiers, 
and from thence we proceeded south- 
wards. At Tiumen I passed the night, 
at the house of a notary, who entertain- 
ed us with unaffected hospitality. Who- 
ever had told me three weeks before, 
that I should so soon revisit this town, 
would have been considered by me as 
an angel of deliverance : but now I be- 
held it again, and my liberty appeared 
still further off than ever ! On this jour- 
ney I paid the established ukase-price at 



33 ' 

each stage, which was no more than one 
copeck a verste for two horses, which 
just amounted to six French sols the 
German mile. 

At a few posts from Tiumen I ob- 
served, in a marshy forest, a^ phenome- 
non in botany, which I have mentioned 
since my return to several learned natu- 
ralists, none of w T hom had ever heard of 
it before* * On a spot about six hundred 
paces- over, appeared an innumerable 
quantity of red flowers, and on the top 
of each there seemed to lie a large flake 
of snow. ^ Their appearance struck me, 
and, alighting from the carriage, I ga- 
thered several of the flowers, which I 
shall now endeavour to describe* f On a 
stalk of about five inches in height, the 
leaves of which, as well as I can remem- 
ber, resemble those of the lily of the val- 
ley, hung a kind of purse, not unlike a 
work-bag, of about an inch and a half 

vol. iu c 



34 

square , with tendrils dangling from the 
upper end, as it were, for the purpose 
of tying it up/ ; This bag, which both 
within and without was of a fine deep 
purple- colour, was furnished with a leaf 
in the form of a heart, proportioned to 
the other parts of the flower, the top of 
which was as white as snow, and the bot- 
tom of the same colour as the bag;. This 
leaf opened and shut with ease, and serv- 
ed in some sort as a lid. I am unable to 
express how beautiful this flower (which, 
I must observe, {had no smell) appeared 
to the eye. I fear I have not been able 
to describe it with any degree of precise- 
ness, being but a novice in the science of 
botany ; I can, however, positively as- 
sert, that it would prove a very beauti- 
ful ornament to any garden. The great 
quantity of them which I saw, induced 
me to believe it was a common flower 
in Siberia, and I therefore neglected ta 



3S 

take any of them with me. I have re- 
gretted this a thousand times since, for 
I looked in vain for the flower 'oh my 
return, and I could find no one that was 
acquainted with it.* 

/ At the distance of a day's journey 
from Kurgan, we passed the night at 
the house of a priest, where we were 
accommodated with a well-furnished 
chamber, and good beds, and were 
treated in the most hospitable manner ; 
and where, to my great astonishment, 
no payment was required from us the 



* M. Paterson, to whom I gave a description of 
this flower, on my return from Kurgan, was e?c- 
tremely desirous to procure some roots of it, and 
he intended to transplant them the following sum- 
mer, should he be able to discover where they 
grew. Having been obliged to make a very irre- 
gular tour on account of the floods, it is very pro- 
bable that I may have thus made a discovery in bo- 
tany. 



36 

next morning. I learnt that the village 
in common was at the expence of keep- 
ing up this hospitable establishment, 
merely for the convenience of travellers. 
Could the virtue and duty of hospitality 
be carried further than this ? Not a pea- 
sant made his appearance at our depar- 
ture even to receive our thanks. 

At four in the afternoon we came in 
sight of Kurgan. A single steeple raises 
its head above a group of mean-looking 
buildings. The town is situated on an 
elevated bank of the Tobol : it is sur- 
rounded with a naked and barren heath, 
which, spreads itself on all sides, for se- 
veral verstes, to the foot of some rising 
woodlands j it is intersected by a great 
number of lakes, choked up with reeds* 
The rainy weather by no means render- 
ed the landscape more inviting. The 
name of Kurgan, which signifies a grave ^ 
I had long considered as a bad omenc 



37 

With tears in my eyes, and despair at 
my heart, I found myself arrived at the 
termination of my past, and the begin- 
ning of my future miseries ; and as the 
floods obliged us to approach the town 
by a circuitous route, I had ample lei- 
sure to contemplate the grave which 
was about to receive its living victim. 

In the midst of a cluster of wooden 
cottages, of one story high, a single 
house, built of stone, and not in a bad 
style, now rose before me, and appeared 
like a palace in comparison with the 
others. I enquired the name of its 
owner, and I learnt it belonged to a cer* 
tain M. de Rosen, formerly vice-gover- 
nor of Perm, who had an estate in this 
country. 

The capricious taste of this man, which 
had induced him to take up his abode 
in this corner of the world, did not 
tempt me to covet his acquaintance. Kls 



38 

name, however, was German, and I ven- 
tured to hope he was descended from a 
German family. The name had been 
long dear to my heart. It reminded 
me of a sincere and faithful friend, the 
old Baron de Rosen, and of his incom- 
parable lady, w r hom I revered like a se- 
cond mother : a generous pair, who had 
often soothed the vexations of my life, 
and whose name, at that moment, was 
sufficient to inspire consolation and de- 
light, even at an immeasurable distance. 
After many turnings and windings, 
we came to a kind of flying-bridge, a 
mere raft, fastened at each end to the 
opposite shores of the Tobol, and ex- 
posed to all the violence of the waves. 
Every carriage that drove upon it caused 
it to sink considerably, and the greatest 
care was necessary to keep the emergent 
part in sight, without which the boat- 
men who stood on that part which was 



39 

under water, would have had no guide 
to direct them in crossing; the ferry. 

Kurgan has two spacious streets, lying 
parallel to each other. We alighted at 
the house in which the common court 
of justice is held : my subaltern entered, 
and quickly returned with the account 
of the gorbdnitschie'} or the head of the 
police,beingfrom home, and that thePre- 
sident of the district acted in his place. 
We then drove to him, and arriving at 
his door, I was announced, and in a few 
minutes invited to walk in. 

I was introduced to an old man whose 
countenance was extremelv ensarind:, 
but who imagined it was necessarv to 
assume a serious and important air on 
this occasion. He saluted me coldly, 
put on his spectacles, opened every paper 
which concerned me, and read them 
with great composure one after the 
other, without paying the least atteri- 



4° 

tion to me. 1 thought it would be as 
well to give him a hint how I wished 
to be treated, both at the present time 
and in future, and taking a chair, I sat 
myself down. He east- a side glance at 
me, and seemed much surprised, but 
continued to read on without uttering 
a single word* 

In an adjoining chamber I noticed a 
curious group of persons, consisting of 
several grown-up children, a handsome 
woman, (the President's second wife) 
his mother, who was almost blind, and 
a middle aged man, in a Polish dres§. 
They all fixed their eyes on me in si- 
lence, and not a word was spoken till 
the reading of the papers was concluded. 
Probably the Governor had recommend- 
ed me to the President, or rather his 
own heart spoke in my behalf, as he 
thfen turned to me, and with a smiling 
countenance gave me his hand, and 



41 

welcomed me to his house. He. present- 
ed me to his family, and to the Pole, 
whom he congratulated on having fpund 
a companion in misfortune, and whom 
he also recommended to my friendship. 
I embraced him with commiseration, and 
we both felt that the similarity of our 
destinies would soon make us brothers 
and friends* 

The President of the common tribu- 
nal of the province, and at the same 
time first magistrate of Kurgan, was 
named De Gravi. His father, a Sw r edish 
officer, who had been taken prisoner at 
the battle of Pultava, had been sent into 
Siberia with many of his fellow-soldiers. 
He married a native of the country, and 
died in exile. His son served in the 
Russian army, fought during the seven 
years war, returned afterwards to the 
place of his birth, and having changed a 
military for a civil employment, lived 



42 

satisfied and happy on a moderate in- 
come; at least he always appeared cheer- 
ful and content. He had lately been 
named Aulic Counsellor, and though not 
foolishly vain, he seemed not a little flat- 
tered by the title. 

After the first compliments were over, 
he began to think about providing me 
with a lodging, which, according to the 
Governor's order, was to be one of the 
best that could be found. Such lodg- 
ing, however, being of the number of 
those the Crown disposes of, and which 
the proprietor of the town is obliged to 
furnish gratis on the arrival of an exile, 
it is natural enough that every inhabi- 
tant does all he can to avoid this dis- 
agreeable tax, and that he whose lot it is 
to submit to it, accommodates the un- 
bidden guest with the worst room in 
the house. 

M. de Gravi, who had been a long 



43 

time considering this matter, at last 
named for my host a kind of adjutant, 
a little hump-backed man. He then in- 
vited me to supper, but I begged he 
would excuse me, as I stood in great 
need of rest, and wished likewise to ar- 
range my affairs at my new lodgings. 
^ "I accompanied my guide, who led me 
to a small low-built house, where I was 
nearly breaking my head in going in at 
the door. This beginning promised but 
paltry accommodation, and the rooms 
I was shewn into were still less inviting. 
They were nothing better than mere 
holes in which a man could hardly stand 
upright ; the walls were naked, there 
was no bed, nor any other furniture 
than a table and two wooden stools ; 
the windows were patched with paper. 
I sighed from the bottom of my heart ; 
the mistress of the house returned my 
sigh in a most cordial manner, and with 



44 

silent ill-humour set about clearing the 
place of some linen 5 a few broken uten- 
sils, and some old clothes, which she had 
been accustomed to keep there, 

I grew, however, in some degree re- 
conciled to the lodging, and began to 
make my little arrangements as well as 
I was able. Scarcely had I been an hour 
in the house, when the worthy De Gravi 
sent me a ham, two loaves of bread, 
some eggs, fresh butter, and other pro- 
visions, out of which my dextrous Rossi 
prepared an excellent supper, rather in- 
deed for himself than for me. After 
this I endeavoured to invoke the power 
of sleep for the first time at Kurgan, but 
the distress of mind under which I la- 
boured, and the myriads of insects that 
tormented me, did not allow me to close 
my eyes. 

The next day, rather early in the 
morning, I received the visits of the 



45 

principal" people of the town. These I 
shall name in succession, to give the 
reader an idea of what is termed s>;ood 
company at Kurgan. 
J* Stephen QsipQwitsch Mammejef was ka~> 
fitan is.prawttiky or intendant of the pro- 
vince, as far as relates to the police, the 
repairs, of bridges and public roads, the 
collection of tolls, &c. He likewise heard 
and decided all differences arising among 
the peasantry. He was a clever, jovial 
man, very civil, and in easy circum- 
stances. Some traits of luxury even were 
to be found in his house, but luxury 
not always accompanied by good taste. 
I remember, for instance, to have re- 
marked in one of the rooms several small 
tables and tea-boards, ornamented with 
some good copies of engravings, exe- 
cuted and varnished over at the manu- 
factory of Ekaterinahourg. These pkces 
of furniture were very expensive ; but, 



4 6 

instead of their being used either as ta- 
bles or tea-boards, they were hung 
against the wall like so many pictures, 
and the feet which belonged to the for- 
mer were placed in different parts of the 
room as mere ornaments. 

Juda Nikitisch, a sedately or assessor 
of the common tribunal, the brother to 
a female friend of the Governor's, who 
had given me a letter of recommenda- 
tion to him, was a very shallow and in- 
significant personage. 

Another sedately still more insignifi- 
cant than the former. 

The secretary of the tribunal, a good 
sort of a man, who had no very humble 
notions of his own capacity. He was 
the only inhabitant of Kurgan that took 
in the Moscow Gazette* 

A very ignorant surgeon* 

Such was the narrow circle, exclusive 
of the absent master of the police, in 



47 

which I was to pass the gloomy remnant 
of my days. 

The most interesting man in all the 
place was certainly the Polish gentleman 
of whom I have already spoken, whose 
name was Iwan Si He posse 

3D estate situated upon the new Russian- 
Prussian frontiers, and had neither taken 
arms nor had any concern directly or 
indirectly in the revolution of Poland. 
A friend of his who kept up a corre- 
spondence with some of the new Prus- 
sian subjects, imagined he might receive 
his letters with more certainty by hav- 
ing them addressed to Sokoloff, and 
without informing him of the matter, 
pointed out that way of communication 
to his correspondents. The first letter 
was intercepted. Sokoloff, who was a 
perfect stranger to the whole transac- 
tion, was at dinner in the neighbour- 
hood,, with his friend General WidU 



4 8 

hurski, when he was arrested with se- 
veral others both innocent and guilty. 
They were a long time confined as state 
prisoners 5 in a fortress of which I forget 
.the name. The business was reported at 
Petersburg, and they all obtained their 
pardon on condition of being transport- 
ed into Siberia for life* 

SokoloiT and his companions were 
thrown into kibicks, and conducted to 
the place of their destination. The road 
lay within a few verstes of his estate : In 
vain he petitioned to be permitted to bid 
farewell to his family, to take a little 
linen and some clothes with him ; no 
attention was paid to his entreaties. In 
the same kibick he was dragged on to 
Tobolsk. At that place he was separated 
from his friends, and sent to Kurgan, 
where he has led a most melancholy life 
for three years past, without having re- 
ceived the least intelligence of his wife 
and six children. 



49 

Not being allowed more than about 
fifteen French sols a day by the crown, 
he is obliged to forego every conveni- 
ence and comfort of life, in order to pro- 
vide himself with necessaries; During the 
winter he has been shut up in the same 
hole with a landlord who was never so- 
ber, and a landlady who was always: out 
of humour, surrounded with dogs and 
cats, poultry and hogs. In the summer, 
for the sake of being alone, he has lived 
in a cow-house, where I have often vi- 
sited him* A bare bedstead, a small 
table, a chair, a bason and a crucifix, 
comprise the catalogue of all his furni- 
ture, and all his wealth. 

Notwithstanding the galling misery 
* that oppresses him, he refuses every pre- 
sent that is offered him, lives upon milk, 
bread and quass, and appears always de- 
cently dressed. He is beloved by every 
one in the town, and the only name by 

VOL. II. D 



5° 

which he is called is iranuschkaJ* /He is 
particularly well received by M. de Gra- 
vi, as he unites to uncommon goodness 
of heart, the manners of polished so- 
ciety, and is able to preserve under the 
pressure gf adversity an equanimity of 
mind, which I have often admired, and 
sometimes envied, being myself unable 
to attain it& It was only when he was 
alone with me, after having repeated 
twenty times over the history of our 
misfortunes, told each other the names 
of our favourite children, and concluded 
by naming every one of them, that the 
tears would start into his eyes, and a 
deep melancholy take possession of him. 
Unhappily for me, he did not speak 
French, nor even Latin, a circumstance 
very unusual among the natives of Po- 
land. We often found it difficult to un- 

r- — ' ; '■ 

* 'This word signifies a man full of goodness and 
condescension, and a lover of children. 



5* 

derstand each other, for, although he 
spoke Russian much better than I did r 
he had only learnt it at Kurgan, and his 
Polish accent often rendered it uninteL- 
iigible to me j but our hearts were the 
better acquainted on this very account* 
In the bosom of misfortune two stran- 
gers felt themselves more intimately 
united than any other connection could 
have made them ; had we been born 
twins, the union could not have been 
closer. 

"With a single trait I shall finish the 
character of this extraordinary man. 
He has been so scrupulously honourable 
as to reject every offer that has been 
made him to convey letters to his fa- 
mily, solely because he had promised go- 
vernment never to avail himself of any 
indirect means whatever to carry on a 
correspondence with any of his relations, 
that indulgence having been strictly pro- 
hibited him. 



5* 

I now return to my own history. Not 
one of those who came to see me on the 
day after my arrival, came empty-hand- 
ed : every one brought me something 
either to eat or to drink, and I was at 
a loss for room to store their presents. 
M. de Gravi came in person to know 
how I liked my new lodging; I con- 
fessed it did not please me at all. He 
immediately offered to accompany me 
over the whole town in quest of such as 
he was able to dispose of : I accepted his 
offer with gratitude, and we passed a 
great part of the day in examining se- 
veral houses, but most of them were 
found to be still worse, and very few 
better than that of which I had taken 
possession-; 4here was every where such 
want of rooms, that had 1 changed, my 
servant must have slept in the same 
chamber with myself — a circumstance I 
could not have supported* 



S3 

At length I requested M. de Gravi to 
allow me to look out for myself, being 
desirous to try if money, the master- 
key to every door, would not procure 
me an abode where I miojht find better 
accommodations. He freely gave me 
leave, observing at the same time that I 
should find nothing to my liking. I 
chiefly relied on my intelligent Rossi*, 
Who, in the course of twenty-four hours, 
was well acquainted with the town, and 
had perhaps already over-reached some 
of its unsuspecting inhabitants. He be- 
gan to make enquiries, and soon return- 
ed with information, that I might be- 
come sole master of a small new house, 
if I chose to make a sacrifice of the sum 
of fifteen roubles a month. ? The owner 
was a tradesman, who, allured by the 
love of gain, would willingly give up 
Ms whole habitation, and confine him- 
self to a small apartment behind it, 



54 

I went immediately to the man and 
took a survey of the house, which I 
found so convenient and well furnished, 
considering the place we were in, that 
it much surpassed my expectations. It 
consisted of one large room, another of 
less size, together with a warm and spa- 
cious kitchen, and* a kind of lumber- 
room, which the Russians call kladavau 
The partitions, indeed, were ^>nly naked 
boards, but the landlord had ornament- 
ed them with coloured prints, and pic- 
tures painted in oil; these were exe- 
cuted badly enough, as it may be ima- 
gined, but thus furnished an agreeable 
illusion, which made me in some sense 
forget where I was* Among them, for 
instance, were several of the productions 
of Nuremburg, a female inhabitant of 
Augsburg, a Leipsic lass, a vender of 
cracknels of Vienna, all with German 
inscriptions. The mere sight of a do- 



55 

zen lines written in my own language,* 
rendered me so happy, that I could not 
summon sufficient resolution to give up 
these interesting remembrancers. There 
were besides these, some bad copies of 
Lady Hamilton's attitudes, and the Her- 
culaneum paintings, landscapes, &c. The 
portraits in oil were done in Russia, and 
represented the Czars ; that is to say, 
the painter having daubed the canvass 
with some long-bearded figures, had de- 
corated them with a Czar's cap, and 
put an imperial globe in their hands, 
and written under them the name of 
Alexci Michailowisch) or some such im- 
perial appellation. 

The furniture consisted of two wood- 
en benches with backs to them, which, 
were dignified with the name of sofas, 
because a cushion, covered with printed 
cotton, had been placed on them ; there 
were also some tables and chairs. There 



5 6 

was, besides, a cupboard stored wkfi 
china, but locked up, and sacred to the 
exclusive use of the landlady* The win- 
dows opened into the street ; behind the 
house there was a spacious yard, which 
extended to the banks of the Tobol, and 
opened upon a very agreeable walk. The 
apartment my landlord occupied was en- 
tirely separated from mine. All these 
considerations united, tempted me to 
dose with the extravagant terms that 
were demanded, which would have been 
a considerable price even at Petersburg, 
and which ill accorded with the low state 
of my finances. I agreed to take pos- 
session the same day. 

An obstacle I did not at all expect, at 
first counteraded my plan. My good 
friend De Gravi would not consent to 
see me lavish away so much money. 
He continually repeated — What a sum 
for a town like Kurgan! A price quite 



57 

unheard of. 1 He even sent for the land- 
lord, and treated him so roughly, that 
the latter was on the point of breaking 
off the agreement. He repeated to 
me twenty times a Russian proverb; 
Bereghi denje na tschorni den ; lay by your 
money for a dark day ! He had even 
some thoughts of informing the Gover- 
nor of the transaction ; because, as he 
observed, his duty required him to watch 
over me ; and in short, I had great 
trouble to convince him that I was able 
to bear the expence ; and that at all 
times it had been a maxim with me to 
prefer a good lodging to a good table. 
At length he yielded, but not before my 
landlord promised him to furnish me 
with fire- wood and quass for the same 
price, and I then took possession of my 
rooms ; every time, however, that I met 
him afterwards, I had to support his la- 
mentations at the extravagant price of 
my lodging. 



58 

It is true, had the remittances I hoped 
to receive from Livonia failed me ; had 
all my wife's letters to me been inter- 
cepted ; had my wife not ventured to 
join me, or not been allowed to do it, I 
should, at the end of six months, have 
been very much embarrassed, as the 
Crown had not allowed me a copeck. 
I had, however, money for the present, 
and hope for the future, and nothing 
could induce me to refrain from a tem- 
porary mitigation of my ills. Living 
also was so cheap at Kurgan, my wants 
were so few, and the opportunities of 
falling into extraordinary expences so 
rare, that I calculated my money was in 
fact sufficient, with good economy, to 
supply me for a whole year ; and that in 
the space of a year many a change might 
take place ! 

I shall mention the price of several 
kinds of provisions, observing at the 
same time, that my honest servant sel- 



59 

dom fa' led to cheat me out of one half 
of the iums I entrusted to him. V Bread 
cost at the rate of four French sols for a 
loaf of six pounds weight ; beef sold 
for a sol and a half a pound ; a fowl 
a sol and a half; butter from three to 
fovr sols a pound ; a couple of heath- 
cocks at most, four sols ; hares without 
their skins were to be had for nothing, 
as the Russians never eat them ; a dish 
of fish two sols ; a cord of wood a livre. 
The most confirmed drinker could not 
swallow more than half a sol of quass 
a day. I once took an opportunity of 
asking M. de Gravi, in the presence of 
the Kapitan Isprawnik, what the expence 
of keeping a pair of horses would amount 
to. He replied, thirty roubles a year 
■would be sufficient. " What do you 
say! thirty roubles?" cried the other, 
interrupting him, " I will undertake 
to keep them, and in excellent condition 
too, for twenty-five !" 



6a 

From the above statement, it appears 
what a trifle is sufficient to procure the 
necessaries of life at Kurgan ; but the 
misfortune is, that they are not always 
to be purchased. There is neither baker 
mor butcher in the whole town : once a 
week, on Sunday afternoon, a kind of 
market is kept, in which the inhabitants 
must provide themselves with bread and 
meat for the whole week* It often hap- 
pens too, that this market is without a 
supply of meat. 

Other articles, particularly articles of 
luxury, are, on the contrary, exorbi- 
tantly dear. A quart of French brandy 
costs two roubles and a half; sugar a 
rouble a pound j coffee a rouble and a 
half, or upwards ; half a dozen packs of 
ugly cards seven roubles ; a quire of 
Dutch paper about three roubles. 

These, however, are articles a man 

1 may do without, and I found, at the 

end of the first week, thajt I had hardly 



Si 

spent two roubles, including washings 
candles, and other trifling things. It is 
.true my table was as frugal as I was 
able to make it* The delicacies which, 
appeared on it consisted of bread, and 
flour (with which M. de Gravi took 
care to supply me twice a week, and 
which is a scarce article at Kurgan), and 
in excellent fresh butter. Of the latter 
I never eat better in any part of the 
world : its good quality arises from the 
rich pasturages in the neighbourhood, 
where the cattle graze at will. In addi- 
tion to my bread and butter, I had some- 
times a fowl stewed with rice, or a pi* 
igeon, or a duck, which I had shot my- 
self ; and my desert was nothing more 
than a draught of quass- I arose every 
day from table satisfied, but never with a 
full stomach ; and I have reason to be- 
lieve it is to that circumstance I am in- 
debted for the uninterrupted state of 



6z 

good health which I latterly enjoyed at 
Kurgan. 

My way of living in general was as 
/ follows : I rose at six, and studied the 
Russian language for an hour - r as not a 
soul in the town spoke any other, it 
was absolutely necessary to recover that 
knowledge which I had lost through dis- 
use. I then took rny breakfast, and sat 
down for some hours to the history o£ 
my misfortunes. After this task, which 
at length became pleasant to me, I usu*- 
ally walked on the banks of the Tobol 
in my bed-gown and slippers. I had 
masked out the extent of two verstes, 
which was my daily exercise, and, as I. 
have already observed, I could go there 
through the- yard-door unobserved.. At 
my return I usually read Seneca ; I 
then took my plain dinner, after which 
I indulged myself with an hour/s nap, 
and when I awoke, took up Pallas or 



6 3 

Gmelin, till Sokoloff called on me to 
take the diversion of shooting* On our 
return he generally drank tea with me, 
(over which we repeated the story of ouxH 
misfortunes^ imparted to each other our 
hopes, or combatted each other's fears. 
After his departure I again read Seneca, 
and eat a slice of bread and butter for 
my supper ; I then played alone at grande 
-patience* and went to bed more or less 
sorrowful (I am almost ashamed to own 
it), as the game had proved more or less 
successful. 

Whoever has undergone a series of 
misfortunes, must certainly have expe- 
rienced that the mind is never more 
prone to superstition than when under 
the immediate controul of grief. What 
would be considered as a mere nothing 
under other circumstances, acquires im- 



* A kind of fortune-telling game at cards. 






6 4 

portance during the hour of affliction. 
A mere straw will then attract our no- 
tice, and notwithstanding the firm per- 
suasion that this straw is not able to 
bear a fly, yet we would fain lay hold of 
it, and are unhappy if we miss it. I 
must confess, that scarcely an evening 
passed at Kurgan, in which I did not 
put the question to myself, as I was 
playing at patience, whether I should see 
my family again or not. When the 
game succeeded (I should do wrong to 
say it filled me with hope and delight) 
but it always gave me pleasure, and when 
the game was not successful (I should 
be equally blameable to say, that it in- 
creased my affliction or despair), but it 
never failed to give me some uneasiness. 
Smile, reader ; you have my permission. 
Ridicule me, ye happy mortals, whose 
bark has ever glided down a clear smooth 
stream, whose banks are enamelled with 



flowers : ridicule the wretch who, as he 
clings to the wreck of his vessel, is tossed 
by the waves on the wide ocean, and 
eagerly endeavours to grasp the most 
slender weed, 
^/ In this manner my time passed away* 
I suffered no kind of restraint, and no 
one overlooked my conduct. My sub- 
altern, Iwanowitsch, had returned to To- 
bolsk the day after my arrival, and it 
was not judged necessary to put another 
in his place, as had been done in the case 
of Sokoloff on his first arrival here. All 
kind of superintendance would have 
been needless precaution : our field sports 
indeed drew us sometimes several verstes 
from the town j but whither could we 
have fled ? Kurgan had formerly been 
considered as as the frontier of the Kir- 
gists j but for many years this frontier 
had been removed backward more than 
sixty verstes, and a fort erected to cover it. 

VOL. II, E 



66 

And, had the borders still extended to 
the neighbourhood of Kurgan, it could 
not have facilitated the escape of people 
totally unprepared for such an enter- 
prize, ill acquainted with the Russian 
language, and wholly ignorant of the 
Kirgish- Even, in any case, the idea 
of flight would be the last resort of 
despair: for the inhabitants of Kurgan 
still remember, with horror, the time in 
which they could not venture out of the 
town, without the risk of being carried 
off by the Kirgists, who were then ever 
on the watch. V The captive was tied to 
the tail of a horse, and obliged to follow 
the rider, who rode off at full gallop ! 
The latter cared but little for the cries 
and groans of the wretch he was drag- 
ging along : when he came home he ex- 
amined whether he was alive or dead ; 
in the first case, he made him his slave, 
or, what was more common, sold him to 



6; 

the Buchanans, who transported him 
heaven knows where/g We had reason, 
therefore, to be happy in this enjoyment 
of the sports of the field, free from the 
dread of these monsters ! 
j. The diversion of shooting was ex- 
tremely agreeable to me, though we were 
but ill provided for it. We possessed 
nothing more than two miserable guns, 
which generally missed fire four or five 
times before they went off. The whole 
town did not afford a pointer, nor even 
a spaniel to fetch our game out of the 
water. The neighbourhood being full 
of lakes and marshes, our principal sport 
consisted in shooting woodcocks and 
wild ducks ; we were therefore obliged 
to perform the office of a spaniel our- 
selves, and wade up to our middle in 
water to look for our prey. My Polish 
friend was much more expert in this fa- 
tiguing exercise than I was. He would 



68 

plunge into the deepest waters, and wade 
about for half an hour together, firing 
among the reeds, or looking for those 
birds which I had shot from the banks. 
He was equal to the best spaniel in every 
respect but his nose j and indeed a dog 
was not very necessary to us, on account 
of the great abundance of game, t Never 
had I seen in Europe so many rooks in 
One flight, as I saw wild ducks of an 
hundred different sorts, in flocks in this 
Country. Some were very small ; some 
had round, others fiat beaks ; some long^ 
and others short ones. There were some 
with short legs, others with long, and 
of grey or brown colours, or of black, 
with yellow beaks. Sometimes, though 
rarely, we met with the great Persian 
duck, of a rose colour, with black beak, 
and a tuft an its head. Every time we 
shot at this bird, it screamed in a most 



6g 

lamentable manner, even when we had 
missed our aim. 

The species of woodcocks were like- 
wise equally numerous and various. 
Some we saw of about the size of a pi- 
geon, of a brown yellow colour, with 
long legs and a frill of feathers round 
their necks. They build their nests 
among the reeds, and they always fly 
about the fowler, and make a singular 
noise ; we seldom shot at them, as their 
flesh has a disagreeable taste. Twice I 
discovered some birds as white as snow, 
and of the size of a goose, with tbng 
legs and beaks, which were both times 
seeking their food on the border of a 
lake ; but they were so wild, that they 
flew away when we advanced within 
two hundred paces of them. I never 
was able to learn their names. 

Besides ducks and woodcocks, we 
found wild pigeons in abundance, and 



blackbirds, flying in such immense 
flocks, that wherever they alighted on 
a tuft of trees, they covered it intirely. 
Their flesh was delicious, but our small 
stock of powder obliged us to be very 
sparing of our shots. 

My Pole informed me, that in the end 
of autumn all sorts of game multiplied 
prodigiously ; and that hares and heath- 
cocks were to be found every where. 
He assured me likewise, and I had heard 
the same at Tobolsk, that the turkey, 
called in Russia drachwa, w r as sometimes 
to be met with here. Bears were un- 
known in the neighbourhood of Kur- 
gan, and wolves were not common, as 
those animals seldom haunt flat coun- 
tries. The sable is scarce in those parts, 
but the ermine is found in great plenty. 
The goss-hawk, both great and small, 
filled the air, and so little did they avoid 
the abodes of man, that they were often 



shot from the very windows of the town. 
Having been always fond of the sports 
of the field, the permission given me to 
shoot proved one of my most agreeable 
pastimes. The country itself likewise 
contributed much to my amusement. 
Wherever I walked, the most beautiful 
flowers sprang up under my feet. I fre- 
quently remarked the fine fpiraa jilipen- 
dula^ and often met with whole tracts of 
land intirely covered with sweet-scented 
herbs, particularly the southern-wood, 
( artemisia arbrotanv.m.) . Multitudes of 
horned cattle and horses, without anv 
one to watch them, grazed at w T i31 on 
every side ; and the weather, during the 
whole time of my residence here, had 
been remarkably serene.^ While the in- 
habitants of Livonia were complaining of 
cold and wet, in Asia the summer was 
both dry and warm^Most days, indeed,, 
we were visited by storms, but they wese 



72 

quickly over, and refreshed the atmos- 
phere, without rendering it cold, 
r^ Another of my recreations was, the ex- 
ercise of long and frequent walks which 
I took on the banks of the Tobol. Several 
parts of this river were resorted to by the 
girls of Kurgan, for the purpose of wash- 
ing linen, or of bathing, These baths af- 
forded them a most agreeable gymnastic 
exercise, and contributed greatly to their 
health. They swam over the stream with- 
out the least difficulty, and lay on the wa- 
ter without any apparent effort, and in 
this manner floated down the current on 
their backs. They often gambolled to- 
gether, pursued one another in the wa- 
ter, and tumbled one over the other 
with incredible dexterity. They indeed 
carried their sports so far as to alarm an 
Inexperienced spectator, who must every 
moment have concluded, that some of 
them would sink and be lost. Every 



73 

thing, I must observe, was carried on 
with the utmost decency ; their heads 
alone were above the water, and one 
might have doubted of their sex, had 
not their motions sometimes displayed 
a glimpse of their bosoms ; a circum- 
stance which, however, seemed totally 
disregarded by themselves. Whenever 
they were desirous of ending their sport 
and coming out of the water, they pro- 
ceeded in a very modest manner. They 
desired the lookers-on to retire, and if 
any person, more curious or mischie- 
vous than the rest, refused to withdraw, 
the women on the banks would form a 
close circle round the first girl that came 
out, and each of them would hurry on 
a part of her cloaths, so that in an instant 
she would appear in a very modest dress. 
Thes^ young girls seemed in general 
to be all in good humour, laughing 
and playing tricks. The Kapitan Ispraw- 



\ 

74 

nik, a great admirer of the sex, came 
frequently of an evening to my rooms, 
about the time when the beauties of 
Kurgan were accustomed to fetch water 
from the Tobol, and would sit with me 
at the window to see them pass by.\ He 
would name them to me one after the 
other, boast of favours he had received 
from many of them ; and the half-fa- 
miliar, half-bashful manner in which 
they saluted him, seemed but too well 
to confirm what he had said. 

The frequent visits of the inhabitants 
of Kurgan became at length very trou- 
blesome to me, though I could not but 
be sensible of their good intentions. A 
notary, who lived opposite to me, hav- 
ing sometimes seen me smoke at the 
window, and who was himself a great 
smoker, informed me he would come 
over and take his pipe with me every 
.morning, byway of keeping me com- 



75 

pany. It was with the greatest difficulty 
that I could prevail on him to give up 
his scheme, for neither he, nor any one 
at Kurgan, could conceive it possible 
that a man should wish to be always 
alone and fond of solitude. They knew 
not that, with the image of a beloved 
wife in my heart, and Seneca in my 
hand, I could never be without com- 
pany. 

I I owe much, I owe every thing to Se- 
neca ; and I believe that during eighteen 
centuries, there has not lived a man in 
the world who has blessed and revered 
his memory so much as myself! Often 
when despair had plunged its poniard in 
my heart, I stretched out my arms to 
this friend, who every day administered 
the balm of patience and fortitude to 
my wounds. The similarity of our fates 
rendered him still more dear to me. He 
was an exile, he was innocent ; he passed 



y6 

eight melancholy years among the bar- 
ren rocks of Corsica. The description 
he gives of his situation accords with 
my own* He complains of an unplea- 
sant climate, of the savage manners and 
uncouth language of the inhabitants. 
All this was applicable to my own case ; 
but that which above all transported me, 
was the eloquent and energetic reason- 
ing against the fear of death, contained 
in several fine passages of his works. I 
collected these with care, and rendered 
them familiar to my mind and my heart. 
I carried them always about me, as Fre- 
deric the Great carried the friendly poi- 
son, to which he intended to apply, had 
all his hopes have failed him. 

I cannot better paint the situation of 
my mind, nor furnish the unhappy, in- 
to whose hands these sheets may fail, 
with more efficacious consolation, than 
•by transcribing some of those sentences 



77 

■which frequent repetition has imprinted, 
not on my memory alone. 

p* 

C V Can the least of evils be deemed a 

great one ? Is the task of despising death 
so difficult to learn ? Do we not see it 
practised every day on the most unim- 
portant 6ccasions, even the paltry love 
of gain ? — A slave, in order to escape 
from his master's fury, will throw 
himself headlong from the top of a 
house ! A fugitive fearful of being taken, 
will stab himself : Shall not courage then 
produce as great effects as fear ?" 

" The loss of life is the only one which 
cannot be lamented when it is too late." 

" Thou fallest into the hands of an 
•enemy ; he drags thee, — whither ? To 
that very goal to which thou hast been 
travelling ever since thou wert born." 

" Long life is the wish of all men ; 
they are but little solicitous that it 



7* 

should be a wise and good one : yet it is 
in our power to embellish life with vn> 
tue, and we are unable to prolong it." 

" Death is the threshold of the house 
of rest, and thou tremblest to set thy 
foot thereon/' 

" We are grown up children, who fear 
death as infants do their nearest relation 
in a mask. What relative is nearer akin 
to us than death ? Boldly tear off his 
mask ; take from him his axe ; deprive 
him of his attendants, the physicians, 
the priests and the mourners, and what 
then remains ? Nothing but death." 

" Be not terrified at the sound of la- 
mentations and groans! These arise from 
pain, and not from death. Every man 
who has suffered the gout, every ema- 
ciated libertine, every woman in child- 
bed, has supported pain. The more vi- 
olent the pain, the shorter its duration." 

"T shall die — -that is, I shall cease to 



79 

feel pain ; my fetters will be broken ; I 
shall cease to lament my wife and my 
children ; I shall no longer be a slave, 
even to death." 

" Death frees thee from all ills, even 
from the fears itself inspires." 

" Are we not dying daily ? The child 
grows and improves in stature, but his 
life decreases. We divide with death 
every one of our days. It is not in swal- 
lowing the last drop that we empty the 
cup of life : to die is only to accomplish 
life." 

"/AH thy life long learn how to die, 
though thou wilt be able to cake use of 
what thou hast learnt but one single 
time. Learn to die ; it is unlearning to 
be a slave." 

"(Neither children nor madmen fear 
death. How humiliating to reason, not 
to be able to furnish what insanity can 
procure F J 



So 

%g To die is to become again what we 
once were. Is the flame less happy when 
it is extinguished, than it was before it 
was kindled ? Are we not kindled and 
extinguished by the breath of nature ? 
It is an error to say death only follows 
life ; it precedes it likewise. To have 
terminated, and not to have begun ex- 
istence, must be the same." 

" Death is either the end of our jour- 
ney, or a point of repose, where we 
change our garments. In the latter case 
we shall be gainers, for our clothes in- 
cumber us on all sides. But if it be the 
end of our journey, it were not worth 
while to have set out. We shall, how- 
ever, fall asleep, excessively fatigued, 
and shall not be disturbed by dreams." 

" Life is merely a coasting voyage : 
Childhood, youth and manhood are pas- 
sed by with rapidity, as towns and vil- 
lages float before the eyes of the naviga- 



8i 

tor : At length we perceive the port ; 
and, fools that we are, we take it for a 
shoal." 

" Captivity is a hard lot : but who 
compels thee to live a slave ? A thousand 
ways lead to liberty, ways that are short 
and easy of access : thanks to the Gods 
who constrain no man to live against 
his will. 

c ,*/Not a long life, but a pleasant one 
constitutes the happiness of our exist- 
ence ; for which reason the wise man 
does not live as long as he may, but as 
long as he likes. If misfortune oppress 
him, he throws off the burthen. To 
him it is absolutely indifferent whether 
he waits the arrival of death, or goes 
out to meet it : Whether he empties his 
cup drop by drop, or at a single draught." 

" Telesphorus, the Rhodian, was a 
mere coward : Being shut up in a cage r 

VOL. II. f 



82 

by the tyrant into whose hands he had 
fallen, and fed like a wild beast, -he said, 
" As long as I am alive, I may hope." 
-What ? Shall a man presume to ransom 
his life at such a price? Thou tellest me 
that Fortune may do every thing for the 
man that still lives, and I answer, that 
she can do nothing against. the man who 
knows how to die." 

■•" How often are we bled to cure a 
head? ache ; and thou hesitatest to open 
a vein to terminate a miserable life \" 

" Among the apostles of virtue there 
are some who deem suicide a crime ; as 
there are dogs which bark at you when 
you approach the gate of liberty. The 
Creator has been more compassionate : 
One road alone leads into life j a thou-* 
sand lead out of it." 

■■" I am allowed to chuse the house in 
which I should like to dwell, the vessel 
an board of which I should like to sail ; 



§3 

and shall I not x:huse the kind of death 
which must conduct me beyond the 
grave?" 

u A long life Is not the worst of 
things: for this reason death ought to 
be obedient to our will. To others we 
are accountable for our life ; to ourselves 
alone for our death/ 5 

I shall not take upon myself to deny 
•that among the foregoing sentences, there 
are feveral which on a close examina- 
tion would prove to be mere tinsel of 
Avords; but who can be displeased at me, 
•that, situated as I was, I felt averse to 
enter into a closer investigation of their 
reasoning before I adopted them ? I con- 
sidered my last hope as having failed 
me. At the expiration of a few months, 
I saw my dear wife worn out with grief, 
sinking into her grave j and OhuljanU 



8 4 

Wj* still more cruel than death, stre- 
nuously preventing her coming to join 
me. I considered that my money would 
leave me with the summer, and that I 
should then be obliged to work as a day 
labourer in a temperature of thirty-six 
degrees of cold, to earn a morsel of 
bread and a draught of quass. This me- 
lancholy prospect I had constantly be- 
fore my eyes, and what resource had I 
but death? 

My resolution was maturely weighed, 
and my plan formed and determined 
upon. In case, however, that my wife 
should have come to me, Ihad planned 
the last, the only means of effecting my 
escape. My hopes were founded on the 
feasibility of traversing the interior part 
of Russia, from one end to the other, 

* Crown Advocate to Paul I. 



85 

without being seen. I formed the fol- 
lowing scheme : 

I intended to have made a partition in 
my large room, and in one of the out- 
ward corners to have placed a great 
clothes press. After such preparations, 
I should have lived two months with my 
family, to all appearance easy and con- 
tented : After that time I intended to 
affect a progressive decay of health, and 
at last a derangement of mind. This 
deception should have continued for an- 
other two months. I should then have 
placed my furred cloak and cap, some 
dark evening, upon the bank of the To- 
bol, near the spot where the ice is bro- 
ken for the purpose of drawing water. 
This being done, I should have returned 
quietly home and hidden myself in the 
clothes-press, which should be so con- 
trived as to admit air. 

Having succeeded thus far, my wife 



86 

would have spread an alarm; search 
would have been made after me ; my 
clothes would have been found, and 
every one would have concluded that I 
had thrown myself -into the river : a 
letter in my own hand-writing would 
have announced my design of putting 
an end to my existence ; my wife w r ould 
then have appeared the victim- of de- 
spair ; she would have kept her bed the 
whole day, and at night, would have 
tarnished me with sustenance. Report 
would have been made of this accident 
at Tobolsk, and from thence to Peters- 
burg, where it would have been thrown 
aside, and I should have been forgotten- 
Some time after this my wife was ta have 
appeared to recover ; she was then to 
ask for a passport to Livonia, which, in 
the common course of things, would not 
have been refused her. She would then 
have procured a large sledge-kibick, in 



. §7 

tvhich a man may lie at full length, and 
which, indeed, would have been the only 
carriage in which such an enterprize 
could have been executed. I should have 
filled up the hollow part of the vehicle, 
and have been covered with pillows and 
baggage. My wife would have occupied 
the seat, and have admitted air when- 
ever necessary ; and unless my strength 
had failed mc on the road, I should most 
certainly have arrived, without the least 
obstacle, before my own door at Frie- 
denthal ; for, as I have already observed, 
no one is examined in the interior parts 
of Russia, and a man may travel from 
Pokngen to Tschukotshoi-Noss, without 
being; once asked what he has in his car- 
riage. 

The most difficult point would have 
been to give an appearance of authenti- 
city to the story of my death, which 
would have been so much the more 



88 

easily established, as the inhabitants of 
Kurgan were a simple, unsuspicious 
people, utterly incapable of following the 
thread of a plan so artfully contrived and 
executed. 

Being arrived at Friedenthal, I should 
have found it easy enough to conceal 
myself for some time from every eye. I 
had, besides, more than one friend in 
Estonia on whom I could depend as con- 
fidentially as I could on my wife, Knor- 
ring or Huek would have conveyed me 
in the same manner as far as Revel. 
The generous Frederic de Ungern-Stern- 
berg would have removed me to his es- 
tate at Hapsal, and from thence to the 
Isle of Dagoe, where I should have em- 
barked for Sweden in a fishing-boat, 
which, with a fair wind would have 
made the passage in twelve hours. Every 
thing, I must repeat, depended on my 
being able to bear the fatigue of such a 



8 9 

journey ; for in every other respect, 
having the happiness to possess a wife so 
singularly excellent, and friends so de- 
voted to my service, the plan was very 
practicable. 

The project of escape I had formed in 
Livonia, and of which I may now speak 
without reserve, was similar to this. I 
designed to have made the Duna the 
scene of my pretended death, and to 
have hidden myself in the ruins of Ko- 
kenhusen. M. de Lowenstern would 
have ordered a search to be made for 
me. Every enquiry having been made 
to no purpose, a certificate of my death 
would have been dispatched to the Coun- 
sellor ; I should have been forgotten at 
Petersburg, and the affair being over, 
some of my friends might have con- 
veyed me away in the manner already 
pointed out. 

My project at Kurgan, however, ap- 



9d 

peared more practicable than that at the 
other place. It would naturally be sup- 
posed that a body sunk under the ice 
could not be found again ; whereas 
an unsuccessful search in the Duna, 
which was not frozen, might have given 
rise to suspicion. Besides, it was no un- 
common thing in Livonia for an unfor- 
tunate man to put an end to his suffer- 
ings. 

The advice of my friend Kiniakoff was, 
that I should join one of the caravans, 
under a good disguise, on its return to 
China. He himself would have endea- 
voured to escape in that manner, had he 
not been apprehensive of embittering 
the fate of his two brothers. I should 
have found such an enterprise impracti- 
cable : I was a foreigner, and the success 
of this scheme depended on being a native 
of Russia, or, at least, on knowing the 
language well enough to pass for a car- 



9i 

rier of that nation. I adhered therefore 
to my former, plan, and I desired my 
wife, in an indirect manner, to bring 
every thing with her that could aid its 
success, and at the end of every letter, I 
hinted at what I intended to do, by these 
words : " If you come here you will be 
more to me than Lodoiska was to her 
Louvet." 

Even at Kurgan I met with a man, 
who kindly and voluntarily offered to 
transmit a letter to my wife, and who 
has conveyed several to her in a more 
expeditious manner than they would 
have reached her the common way. If 
I do not name this friend, the reason may 
be easily imagined. Before God my 
heart has named him more than a thou- 
sand times ! 

I pity those gloomy philosophers, who 
ascribe to human nature an innate and 
original depravity. My misfortunes have 



confirmed me in the opinion that man 
may put confidence in man. How few 
hard-hearted and insensible beings are to 
be met with in my narrative ! How few 
that resemble the unfeeling Counsellor, 
or the coxccmical Prostenius ! I have al- 
ways thought, and I am convinced of 
the fact, that if a man be unfortunate, 
he will every where find friends : the 
arms, the hearts of men will open at his 
approach, in the most dreary wilderness, 
in the most remote corner of the uni- 
verse ! 

^The good inhabitants of Kurgan are 
certainly of this description. I was in- 
vited to all their little feasts ; every one 
would fain divide his pittance, and share 
his pleasures with me. On my arrival 
among them they did know me as an 
author : but a paragraph which was In- 
serted in the Moscow Gazette, relative 
to the brilliant success of my pieces on 



93 

' the English stage, informed them of my 
literary existence, and served to increase 
that esteem which they had already 
evinced for me. The good nature with 
which they endeavoured to divert me, 
and the kind intention they had in draw- 
ing me into their little circles, have some- 
times proved troublesome to me ; for, 
on one hand, my mind was ill adapted 
to any intercourse with mankind, and 
on the other, their company had but 
few charms for an European like myself, 
spoiled by the habits of polished society* 
The following may serve as a sketch 

f of the state of society at this place. The 
Assessor, Judas Nikitisch, celebrated the 
festival of his patron Saint, which, it 
must be observed, in Russia is a more 
important festival than a birth-day. He 
came to me early in the morning;, and 
invited me to his house, where, he said, 
I should meet all the principal people of 



94 

the place. I went, and on my arrival 
was stunned by the noise of five men, 
whom they called singers. These men, 
turning their backs to the company, 
apply their right hands to their mouths 
to improve the sound of their voices, 
and make as loud a noise as possible in 
one corner of the room. This was the 
salutation given to every guest on his 
entering the house. An immense table 
groaned under the weight of twenty 
dishes 5 but I could see neither plates nor 
chairs for the accommodation of the 
company. The whole had the appear- 
ance of a breakfast, which the Russians 
often p;ive under the name of a sacuschka. 
The principal dishes were pirogues, not 
made of meat, as is usual, but of diffe- 
rent kinds of fish, it being the season of 
lent. There were besides several dishes 
of soused fish, and pastry of many sorts. 
The master of the house carried a 



95 

liuge brandy bottle in his hand, eager to 
serve his guests, who frequently drank 
to his health, and, to my great surprise*, 
without shewing any signs of intoxica- 
tion. There was no wine, and indeed 
I had drank none in Siberia, except at 
Tobolsk, at the Governor's table : it w T as 
a Russian wine, palatable enough, which, 
if I mistake not, had been procured from 
the Crimea. Instead of wine our host 
presented us with mead; another rarity, 
and much esteemed here, as there are 
no bees in Siberia. Every guest, except 
-myself, however, preferred brandy to 
this mead. 

I expected every moment that another 
door would be thrown open, and that 
the company would sit down to table ; 
but I expected in vain. The guests took 
their hats one after the other, and went 
away ; and I felt it necessary to follow 
their example. 



9 6 

"Is the entertainment over?" said I 
to M. de Gravi, who stood near me. 

" No," replied he; " the company 
are going home to take their naps, and 
at five o'clock they will be here again.' ' 

I returned at the appointed hour. The 
scene was then changed ; the great table 
still occupied the centre of the room, but 
in the place of pirogues, fish and brandy, 



it was covered with cakes, raisins, al- 
monds, and a quantity of Chinese sweet- 
meats, several of which w r ere of an ex- 
quisite flavour, and among which I re- 
marked a dry conserve of apples cut 
into slices. 

The mistress of the house, a young 
and charming woman, now made her 
appearance, and with her the ladies and 
daughters of the guests, iji their old-fa- 
shioned dresses. Tea and French bran- 
dy were handed to the company, with 
punch, into which the glukwa berry 



97 

{yatciriium okycoccos) was squeezed instead 
of lemons. Card tables were then set, 
and the guests played at Boston* as 
long as the brandy allowed them to 
distinguish the colour of the cards. At 
supper-time every person retired as they 
had done at noon, and -the entertain- 
ment closed. 

It will be easily imagined that it re- 
quired no small effort on my part to 
partake of such recreations. Happy was 
I when I could return to rny own cham- 
ber to breathe in freedom, or take my 
gun on my shoulder, and walk out with 
my worthy Sokolofif. 
r Thus my days passed on at Kurgan, 
my health continued invariably good, 
which had not been the cas? for many 
years before, and this contributed in a 
considerable degree to the serenity of 

* A Russian gam% 
>L, II, G 



98 

my mind. I indulged the fondest hopes: 
the idea of my family assembled round 
me was always present to my mind, and 
thus re-united, I was convinced we could 
not be unhappy even at Kurgan. Such 
was my firm persuasion, and I knew my 
wife would think the same. 

Nor was this my sole and last hope. 
I had presented a Memorial to the Em- 
peror ; to an Emperor who would not 
blush to make reparation for the impe- 
tuosity of the moment, into which he 
had been surprised by calumny or sus- 
picion ; to an Emperor who, being him- 
self a father, would allow the voice of 
nature to reach his heart through all the 
obstacles that his court-advocate Obul- 
janinow could throw between him and 
me. With what sincerity did I wish 
my Counsellor a good journey ! How 
many times have I calculated the weeks, 
&he days that would be necessary for his 



99 

arrival at Petersburgh ! The days ana 
the weeks after that which must elapse 
before the decision of my fate could 
reach me, whether on the banks of the 
Neva or those of the Tobol ! Towards 
the end of August, if every thing agreed 
with my calculations, I expected to re- 
ceive my final sentence. Thank Hea- 
ven i I had in this instance erroneously- 
calculated — 

The hand that leads us thro' life's dreary road, 
Aids the lorn wretch to bear his gralling load : 
And tho' fond hope, bereft of ail its pow'r, 
Has scarce a gleam to cheer the darken 'd hour, 
Still may one thought the erring mind employ, 
That one short moment brings unlook'd-for joy I 

It was now the ;th of July : the morn- 
ing was fine, and I was engaged in my 
usual maimer, in drawing up the story 
of my misfortunes, when, at about ten 
o'clock, M. de Gravi came in, and, after 
a few words of ordinary chat, took up 



ICO 

a pack ol cards, as he most commonly 
did, to play at the game of grande pa- 
tience^ which he often carried so far as 
to put my patience to a severe trial. 
I was sometimes whole hours a witness 
to his pastime, for the good man could 
not conceive it possible that any one's 
time at Kurgan was valuable, and parti- 
cularly an exile's. He continued to play 
till eleven o'clock : during this time I 
walked up and down the room in ill- 
humoured silence, without taking any 
notice of the game, except once, when 
he asked me with what view he should 
turn up the cards. * c Consult the oracle," 
said I, peevishly, " whether I am to see 
my family shortly." The deal proved 
fortunate, and he was highly delighted 
that they were soon to be with me. 

At length he recollected he had busi- 
ness to dispatch, and took his leave* 

I continued my task. In the middle 



101 



of a period my servant interrupted me 
by saying — " Well, Sir, we have some 



more news/ 5 



I paid little attention to him, conclud- 
ing he was going to entertain me with 
some new love affair ; (for he had had 
twenty, and some of no common sort, 
since we had resided here) and without 
taking my pen from the paper, I turned 
myself half round to ask him what the 
news was. 

" This very moment a dragoon is ar- 
rived to take you away," said he. Struck 
with terror, I started from my chair, 
and looked him full in the face without 
being able to utter a single word. 

" Yes, yes," continued he, " we shall 
perhaps set off this very day for To- 
bolsk." 

" How ?" was all I was able to say. 

Instead of answering me, he brought 
a man to me who had seen the dragoon. 



102 



had heard him speak of his commission, 
had accompanied him to M. de Gravi's, 
and from thence had ran to my lodging 
to be the first bearer of the news, but 
who was totally ignorant of the dis- 
patches that were brought. 

What had I to expect ? My liberty ? 
Alas, no ! For in such case, why was I 
to be taken back to Tobolsk ? The near- 
est road lay through Ekatarinabourg, 
and why make a circuitous journey of 
live hundred verstes ? Besides, the an- 
swer to mv Memorial could not arrive 
for a considerable time to come. I had 
therefore nothing; better before me than 
the horrid prospect of being transported 
from Tobolsk further up the country, 
perhaps to Kamtschatka. I remained a 
considerable time in great perturbation 
of mind, till, rousing myself from a 
painful train of thought, I took the 
quire of paper on which I had been writ- 



IG 3 



ing, together with all the bank notes I 
had left, and concealed the whole under 
my waistcoat, I waited for more than 
ten minutes in the most painful state of 
suspence, for the arrival of my sentence. 
These ten minutes are to be numbered 
among the most dreadful of my life. At 
last I perceived from my window M. de 
Gravi , accompanied by a crowd of people, 
turning the corner of the street, and in 
the midst of them I discerned a dragoon, 
with a plume that covered his hat. They 
were too far off for me to observe the 
expression of their countenances \ and 
I remained more dead than alive, wak- 
ing to know my fate, 

I walked with trembling steps about 
the room, and again drawing near the 
window, I could distinguish the features 
of M. de Gravi, which seemed to be 
very composed. A ray of hope now 
gleamed upon me, yet heaviness still 
pressed upon my heart. 



104 

The people were now in the yard j 
M. de Gravi looked up at my window, 
perceived me there, and saluted me in a 
gay and friendly manner. I felt my 
heart grow lighter ; I attempted to go 
out to meet him, but was unable : I re- 
mained quite motionless, and fixed my 
eyes upon the door of the chamber : it 
opened ; I endeavoured to speak, but 
continued speechless. 

Prosdawlaja, wui swobodni—" I con- 
gratulate you, you are free!" — As he 
uttered these words, the good De Gravi 
threw himself into my arms, and shed 
tears of joy. I saw nothing, heard no- 
thing ; felt only the tears of De Gravi, 
which wet my cheek, while my own 
eyes remained dry. The cry of prosdaiv- 
llija was repeated by all around me ; 
every one strove to be first to embrace 
me, and my servant too pressed me to 
his heart. I permitted all these proceed- 
ings, still looking at them with silent 



*°5 
stupor : I could neither thank them, nor 
utter a word. 

The dragoon then delivered me a let** 
ter from the Governor. I had strength 
enough to open it, and I read the follow-, 
ing lines, which were written in French* 

" Sir, 

" Rejoice, but moderate your 
transports ; the state of your health 
requires it. My prediction is accom- 
plished. I have the satisfaction to in- 
form you that our gracious Emperor 
" desires your return. Command every 
" thing of which you may be in want ; 
"and it shall be procured you. Orders 
4C are already given for your accommo- 
" dation. Hasten and receive the con- 
" gratulations of 

! " Your very humble Servant, 

" De Kuscheleff." 
July jtfh. 



io6 

Every word of the letter sunk deep 
into my heart. The Governor sent me 
at the same time a bundle of newspapers, 
and a short congratulatory note from M. 
Becker, who by chance had been present 
when the dragoon was sent off, and who 
offered me his house, in the most pres- 
sing manner, on my return to Tobolsk. 

M. de Gravi read to me the order 
which he had received. The substance 
of it was that I should be furnished with 
with whatever I might want, even with 
money, and that I should be sent off 
immediately. 

I had not yet recovered my speech, 
but a flood of tears relieved me. I wept, 
and the greater part of the spectators 
wept with me. 

Suddenly Sokoloff came in and fell 
upon my neck, pressed me in his arms, 
and shed many bitter tears. " I am 
again," said he, much affected, " alone 



107 

and forsaken, but what does it signify ? 
God knows, I rejoice sincerely in your 
deliverance." 

All the principal people of the town 
crowded about me ; the room could 
scarcely hold them. Every one was ea- 
ger to testify his joy, and to compliment 
' me on this occasion. The worthy De 
Gravi, who naturally imagined such a 
crowd would at the present moment 
prove troublesome to me, dispersed them 
by degrees, and proposed my going to 
dine at his house. I could neither eat 
nor drink. " When do you think of 
setting off?" said he. " In two hours," 
I replied. " What shall you want ?" — 
" Horses." — He smiled and left me. 

I was now alone — I shall not attempt 
to describe the state of my mind. For 
several hours I could neither stand nor 
sit still. I walked backwards and for- 
ward without intermission, and mea- 



ioS 

sured the room in every direction. I 
had scarcely any ideas, I had merely sen- 
sations, confused images which rapidly 
succeeded each other, without leaving 
any distinct traces on my mind. I still 
saw my wife and my children fluttering 
before my eyes as in a mist. I felt my 
head grow giddy, and my whole frame 
was strangely affected ; I endeavoured 
to think in a connected manner, to re- 
flect, to read the newspapers, which was 
a favourite occupation with me; but all 
was in vain, my tears from time to time 
gushed out afresh, and all I was able to* 
say was confined to this single exclama- 
tion ; O God ! O God ! 

As soon as my mind became more 
tranquil, I found that my cup of joy was 
not without a mixture of regret. The 
stranger to whom, in the first transports 
of delight, I had made a present very in- 
consistent with my means, informed me 



2 09 

>ng other things, that a senate cou* 
rier had arrived from Petersburg, to 
conduct me thither : but, that having 
orders only to go to Tobolsk, he had re- 
fused to stir beyond that place ; on ac- 
count of which, it had not been in the 
Governor's power to spare me this cir- 
cuitous route. This point, indeed, was 
sufficiently cleared up, but the dragoon 
could not solve a second question of 
much more importance to me, which 
was, Whether the courier had brought 
any letters from my family, or at least 
any account of them ? Of this the dra- 
goon was quite Ignorant ; and it seemed 
but too probabL, in my mind, that the 
cornier had no such letters or accounts 
to bring me, since the well-known hu- 
manity of the Governor would certain- 
ly have induced him to mention the cir- 
cumstance in his letter. He well knew 
how much I was attached to my wife ; 



no 

he had witnessed the tears I had shed 
for her, and in sympathy often mingled 
his own with mine. As therefore he 
mentioned not a word of her in his 
note, I dreaded that he had something 
very shocking to conceal from me. 

Thus ingenious was I in tormenting 
myself ; but happily the preparations for 
the journey in some degree diverted my 
attention. I was as impatient as a child : 
all my things were crammed in haste 
into my portmanteau, and thrown into 
a kibick. I hastily acquitted myself of 
my last duty at Kurgan, and took leave 
of all my good friends. It will be sup- 
posed I did not stay many minutes in 
one house. I remained longer with my 
excellent friend Be Gravi, and he ex- 
acted a sacrifice from me on leaving 
him, which gave me no small pain, but 
which I could not refuse, as he solicited 
me in the most pressing manner. 



Ill 



The 7th of July was a solemn festival, 
the true meaning of which I was never 
able to discover. It chiefly consisted in 
transporting the image of the Saint of a 
neighbouring village into the town. The 
Saint of the town was carried in pro- 
cession to meet it, received it with! po- 
liteness, and bore it company to its 
own temple ; honoured it with certain 
prayers and hymns, and accompanied 
it back in the evening. All the inhabi- 
tants of the place escorted their Saint on 
this little excursion, singing psalms as 
they marched along. The worthy De 
Gravi thought it his duty to be at the 
head of this procession, and it was at this 
ceremony that I was compelled to be 
present. He assured me it would not 
last half an hour, and I accompanied 
him. 

Borne by six pretty country girls, and 
attended by a priest with a long beard. 



112 

the Saint of the village met us in the 
skirts of the town. Every one sung 
and made the sign of the cross. The 
images of the two Saints politely ex. 
changed salutations. We returned with 
them to the town ; the stranger Saint 
w r ent to the house of its host, and I 
flew to mine to make my last prepara- 
tions. 

I found my good friend Sokoloff 
there, whose heart was much oppressed 
on account of our separation. The night 
before we had both observed, that the 
liberty of the one would render the cap- 
tivity of the other doubly painful. The 
following day the circumstance was to 
take place ! I made him a present of my 
gun, my shooting apparatus, all my 
powder and shot, and every thing else 
that I could spare. He accepted them 
without saying a word, and I could read 
in his moistened eye, that he had much 



"3 

rather have had my company than my 
presents. I pressed him to write to his 
family, and promised to transmit his 
letters safe into their hands. His con- 
science, however, which was scrupulous 
to excess, would not permit him to em- 
brace my offer. He was determined in 
no respect to disobey the severe orders 
he had received, and deemed it merito- 
rious rather to fuffer every thing than 
incur the imputation of a single fault. 

The idea that this excellent man would 
have been far less unhappy at Kur- 
gan, had he never found a fellow-suf- 
ferer in me, embittered the moment 
of joy which I had experienced on re- 
gaining my liberty. In fact, I had been 
the cause of his having resumed his for- 
mer habits of society and friendship, 
and having again tasted some of the 
enjoyments of life. He could always 
pour forth his complaints to me ; my 

vol. u, n 



ear and my heart were ever open to 
him, and my sudden departure plunged 
him once more into his former solitude! 
It had been my intention to have taken 
him out of his melancholy dwelling, and 
have lodged him with me during the win- 
ter, had not my departure condemned 
him again to his garret. I embraced 
him and shed many tears ; he wept also 
and left the room, I did not see him 
any more, for when the greater part of 
the inhabitants of the town were assem- 
bled in the yard at the moment of my 
departure, Simon SokolofF was not of 
the number. 

I was obliged to wait an hour for the 
horses. Never in my life did I feel my- 
self so much upon thorns. I was hardly 
capable of acknowledging the marks of 
kindness which the Kurganians lavished 
upon me. Gne had made me some 
punch ; another loaded my kibick with 



MS 

provisions ; a third presented me with 
a pot of cucumbers.* I must have walk- 
ed on foot by the side of my carriage, 
had I accepted' all their presents. May 
the benediction of heaven fall on these 
good people ! I shall see them no more, 
but I bear in my heart a tender and 
grateful remembrance of their hosni- 
tality. 

The horses at length arrived. I was 
embraced by the whole circle, and put in- 
to the kibick. Good old De Gravi got in 
with me, determined, as he said, to accom- 
pany me out of the gates. Benedictions 
and prayers were showered upon me at 
parting, and I was lost in a transport of 
delight. After proceeding about two 
verstes on my journey, De Gravi stopped 

* At Kurgan cucumbers are considered as a great 
delicacy ; they are cultivated as melons are in Ger- 
many, and are served to the guests, as part of the 
desert, cut into small slices, 



n6 

the postilion, fell upon my neck, em- 
braced me and wept ; pressed my hand, 
and alighted from the carriage ; left me, 
returned again, shook me once more by 
the hand, sobbed, bid me farewell, and 
departed. I raised myself in the kibick, 
kept my eyes a long while upon him, 
and contemplated with emotion the spot 
of my exile ; and then, having cast be- 
hind me the painful dream of my mis- 
fortunes, I bid the driver make the best 
of his way. 

I was not obliged to go so far round 
as Tiumen ; the water had in a great 
degree subsided; and being provided 
with a gauze fence to keep off the gnats, 
I was enabled to go on during the whole 
night, which, without such precaution, 
had been impracticable at this season of 
the year. The gnats of this country re- 
semble those of Europe, except that they 
are of a yellow colour^ and are still more 
venemous. 



Towards evening I fell asleep, and af- 
ter ar-~easy slumber, I awoke to new en- 
joyment. I was a full minute before I 
could well recollect what had so lately 
happened to me; but this minute, during 
which the idea of my liberty gradually 
unfolded itself in my mind, was a celes- 
tial one. 

f In the afternoon we passed through a 
little town called Jaluterski. It con- 
tained a great number of exiles, among 
whom was Prince Simbirski, formerly 
Commander in Chief of the Russian 

- r 

army, who had been sentenced to banish- 
ment on account of mal-practices in the 
delivery of a cloth contract, of which he 
in fact had not been himself guilty, 
though charged with conniving at the 
guilt of others. It is scarcely to be ima- 
gined that he deserved so heavy a punish- 
ment, and stili less easy to believe that 
it could have been inflicted in so cruel a 



n8 

manner. \ He was loaded with irons, and 
dragged into exile with a guide three 
times as cruel as mine, and obliged, in 
spite of the bad state of his health, and 
the incumbrance of his fetters, to give 
up, almost continually, his place in the 
kibick to his guide, and to walk. There 
was no sort of ill-treatment, no kind of 
humiliating outrage, but what he had 
experienced at the hands of his execu- 
tioner.* 

A scene of happiness nevertheless 
• awaited him on the inhospitable banks 
of the Tobol, which I have often envied 
him, and which must have considerably 
alleviated his misfortunes. On his way 
from Tobolsk toward Jaluterski, the 
place of h,is destination, having been 
obliged, as I had been, to measure back 

* He was afterwards found to be innocent of the 
charges exhibited against him, and he has been since 
• Oist.it ted in all his honours and dignities. 



II 9 

the high-road for some hundred verstes, 
he saw, at the very moment in which 
he was leaving the Tobol and striking 
up the country ; he saw, I say, a raft on 
the other side of the river begin to move, 
with several persons and their baggage 
on board. Let the reader judge of his 
joy, when he recognized by degrees his 
wife and his children ! He uttered a loud 
shriek, and it was echoed from the raft; 
it was the dear and well-known voice of 
his family. Their arms were extended 
towards him : he rushed into the water, 
met the raft, and sprung into it. -Hea- 
vens ! What a moment! Some peasants, 
who were spectators of this scene, re- 
lated it to me. They had felt as they 
ought on this occasion, and' they yet 
speak of it with emotion. 

When I passed through the town, 
Prince Simberski was ill ; he was sur- 
rounded, however, by his family, and . 



120 

was the object of their most tender so- 
licitude. 

I never saw finer pastures than in this 
country. Any one has liberty to mow 
them, and yet the greater part remains 
unmowed, in consequence of the thin 
population, and scarcity of cattle. 

I must not pass over in silence a phe- 
nomenon which I met with in a village 
near Jaiuterski. It was a male idiot, 
about eighteen years old, who walked on 
all-fours : he might be cited in behalf of 
the hypothesis, that man originally walk- 
ed in that manner. He not only trotted 
very fast whenever he chose, but at the 
same time held his head in a vertical po- 
sition as other men do. The muscles of 
his neck must certainly have given way, 
and become accustomed to this direction. 
He seldom stood erect, and never walked 
in that attitude, but often squatted upon 
his i«£« in the manner of a bear. 



121 

Between Jaluterski and Tobolsk, we 
drove through several villages inhabit- 
ed by Tartars. This nation does not 
appear to me to merit the contempt with 
which the Russians, their conquerors, 
choose to treat them. An accident 
which befel me in one of these villages, 
gave me an opportunity of learning 
some particulars. 

One evening, near sun-set, the axle- 
tree of my carriage broke down, when 
two or three Tartars immediately ran to 
my assistance. One of them was a sort 
of carpenter. I stopped before his door, 
and learning that the repairs wc aid take 
up three hours, I desired my servant to 
make some tea. The inside of the Tartar 
houses being very dirty, I preferred pass- 
ing the evening, which was exceedingly 
fine, before the door ; and having pro- 
cured a table and a chair, I began to 
open my travelling trunk to take out 



its 

what was necessary to make my tea. 
Curiosity had drav/n all the inhabitants 
of the village about me, who seemed to 
be totally ignorant of the use of utensils 
of luxury. An old silk bed-gown, that 
my wife had often wished me to throw 
aside, attracted their attention and ad- 
miration to such a degree, that every 
one of them was desirous to handle it. 

But what delighted them to ecstacy 
"was the looking-glass that lined the lid 
of my travelling box. They sat cower- 
ing in groups before it, laughed aloud 
at the sight of their own faces, and ex- 
plained to one another, by droll gesticula- 
tions, their astonishment at seeing before 
them the country that lay behind them. 
I took the glass from the lid, and pre- 
sented it to the carpenter's wife, who at 
first cast a look by stealth upon it, then 
by degrees grew more familiar with it, 
and at last admired herself with no small 



1*3 

satisfaction, for she was very pretty. It 
appeared to me that the female Tartar 
peasants were not so scrupulous a,s thq 
women of Casan in hiding their faces j 
at least all I saw here were without veils. 

Tea being ready, I lighted my pipe*, 
and sat myself down upon a pile of tim- 
ber which stood just opposite my car- 
penter's house. It was a picturesque noc- 
turnal scene. A score of Tartars were 
seated about me, upon the riide steps 
formed by the beams of timber ; at my 
feet a little fire was kindled, at which 
the carpenter was working ; and across 
the way, close to the house, stood seve- 
ral women, girls, and children, who werQ 
too bashful to approach nearer. 

By degrees a very singular conversa- 



* Lest the Printer should be ixtnocently accused 
of a blunder, the Translator begs to inform his 
countrymen, that the Germans frequently take a 
pipe with their tea and coffee. 



124 

tion took place between me and the sur- 
rounding group. The moment they had 
discovered I was not a Russian, they 
took courage; I gained their confidence; 
,they overwhelmed me with inquiries: 
Who was I? Where was I going? What 
countryman was 1 ? How did people live 
in my country ? The crowd and myself 
were alike ill versed in the Russian 
tongue, and we had infinite trouble to 
understand each other. Having told 
them I was a Saxon, they conversed for 
some time in the Tartar language to- 
gether, and then asked me if Saxony 
was not situated upon the Caspian Sea. I 
knew not how to give them an idea of 
the geographical position of that country. 
They were ignorant of all Germany, ex- 
cept Prussia, and of that they had but 
very confused ideas. They had never 
heard of the name of France, of its re- 
volution, nor its wars* Happy people ! 



"5 






' A young woman, whom the looking, 
glass had attracted so much, having in 
ean while drawn nearer to us to 
profit by the conversation I took an op- 
portunity of asking Her if polygamy was 
common among them \ and it appeared, 
that in ail the village there were but two 
men who had more than one wife, and 
my carpenter was one of these. I was 
asked if I did not think it very agree- 
able to have several helpmates and se- 
veral companions. Each by-stander 
strove to prove the advantages of poly- 
gamy. " When a man's wife grows 
old/ 5 said one of them, u she is asso- 
ciated with a younger woman." " When 
the old one is sad," added another, " the 
young one may smile and be merry." 

" Very well," said I, " but does this 
arrangement please your females ?" On 
saying this, I cast my eyes upon my 
pretty hostess. The by-standers explain* 



126 

ed what I said, as she scarcely under- 
stood a word of Russian, and when she 
had comprehended the question, she 
shook her he?.d, as if she would say, 
" you are right to doubt it." After this 
she turned her eyes in a timid manner 
towards the door of her own house, 
where a woman of about forty, and 
of a crabbed look, probably her compa- 
nion, was sitting. My eyes followed 
her's, and I was convinced that I had dis- 
covered a family secret. 
O* I had evidently gained the good will 
'of this young woman, by the part I had 
taken in favour of her sex, for she soon 
after brought a pot filled with eggs^ 
though I had not' asked for any thing 
of the kind, which having placed upon, 
the fire that was burning before me, she 
squatted down in such a manner that the 
flames reddened her countenance in a 
high degree : having boiled the eggs, 



127 

she presented them to me upon a wooden 
dish. 

I had never before had an opportunity 
of being convinced of the inveterate 
hatred which the Tartars bear the Rus- 
sians. My dragoon had fallen asleep ; 
my servant and myself were strangers, 
and they could venture to explain them- 
selves with freedom, which they soon 
began to do without the least reserve. 

As far as I have been able to observe 
the Tartar nation, I have found them 
frank, ambitious, quick in perception^ 
of strong feelings, and much addicted 
to revenge. The men are in general tall, 
stout, and hardy. With such faculties 
and dispositions, it is impossible that the 
conduct of the Russians towards them 
should produce any other effects than 
hatred. The Tartars are considered as 
the reprobate descendants of certain 
Finlandish colonies. The name of Tar- 



128 

tar in this part of the world is an ex- 
pression as injurious as that of Tsuchon* 
which is bestowed on the wretched in- 
habitants of the north of the Baltic. 
They are used in the most cruel and ig- 
nominious manner* When any acci- 
dent happens to a Russian on the road, 
he claims, as the bounden duty of a slave, 
the assistance of the first Tartar he 
meets, without condescending either to 
pay or thank him for his service. They 
even ridicule his prophet during the 
very time the man is at work for them, 
and while they themselves remain idle 
lookers-on. I have been present at a 
scene of this kind, in which Alexander 
Schulkins behaved with great in decency 5 
and I could observe, that when he began 
to speak prophanely of the prophet, the 

* The true name of the Finlanders, but which is 
now degenerated into a term of reproach. 



129 

Tartar grew pale with anger, and was 
scarcely able to restrain his indignation. 

I afforded this injured people some 
consolation, by informing them, that 
several of their mirzas were treated 
with great respect at Petersburg. I 
named Berschawin in particular, a man. 
equally celebrated as a poet and a states- 
man ; advising them at the same time 
to make application to him whenever 
they stood in need of redress. 

If my conversation seemed to afford 
them much delight, their frank and un- 
reserved behaviour gave me no les plea- 
sure, except that they pressed too closely 
about me. 

As soon as the carriage was repaired, 
\ prepared to depart. The carpenter re- 
ceived a trifle for his labour, but refused 
to take any thing for his hospitality ; 
and though this accident was far from 
being agreeable, as it impeded my jour- 

VOL. II. i 



i 3 c 

ney, yet I cannot help congratulating 
myself on having employed the period 
of the delay in a very satisfactory man- 
ner, 

I continued my journey without any 
farther accident, and arrived on the 9th 
of July, early in the morning, at the 
last post before Tobolsk. The spring 
Hoods had not long subsided, and I was 
obliged to travel the last four German 
miles, as I had formerly done, in a mi- 
serable bark. But the weather was fine, 
and my mind was as serene as the at- 
mosphere. I saw the same objects with 
far different sensations, and my soul re- 
sembled the smooth surface over which 
we were gently gliding. 

At ten o'clock I arrived at Tobolsk. 
M. Becker, as I have already said, had 
offered me his house, but I waved going 
there immediately, being uncertain whe- 
ther such a step might be agreeable to 



*3* 

the Governor, who was obliged above 
all other men to observe every measure 
of prudence and circumspection. 

Under this impression, I preferred 
going directly to my former quarters,, 
where I was received with open arms 
by the master of the house, and shewn 
into the apartment which I had before 
occupied, and in which another unfor- 
tunate exile had lodged since I left it. 
1 announced mv arrival to the Gover- 
nor by means of the dragoon, and as 
soon as I had changed my dress I fol- 
lowed him. 

The courier who had been dispatched 
to me, and whose name was Carpow, 
lodged in the same house with us. 
was, however, from home, and I was 
still obliged to reserve all the anxious- 
questions I had to ask relative to my fa- 
mily in my own bosom. I flew to the 
Governor, and found him. as before, in 



*3 2 

liis garden. He pressed me to his heart, 
and his eyes sparkled with sincere de- 
light. , 

My first enquiry was respecting those 
who belonged to me, Alas ! he was un- 
able to afford me the least information; 
he however strove to console me by 
every argument in his power. He shew- 
ed me the ukase which related to me, 
and which contained only a few lines, 
written in the Court Advocate's hand, 
enjoining him, " to set the within-named 
c; Kotzebue, committed to his keeping, 
" immediately at liberty ; to send him 
K to Petersburg, and to furnish him, at 
" the expence of the Crown, with what- 
" ever was necessary or agreeable to 
" him." The Courier was also directed 
to defray all the expences of the journey. 

In consequence of this order, the Go- 
vernor asked me what sum of money 
would be sufficient for me, I had still 



m 

some hundred roubles in my possession, 
and I should not have accepted any as- 
sistance, had I not apprehended that my 
refusal of the Emperor's generous offers 
might be construed into pride or dis- 
dain. On the other hand, I was fearful 
of asking too much, and it was as neces- 
cessary to avoid the imputation of pre- 
sumption as that of haughtiness. I men- 
tioned my scruples to the Governor ; 
and requested him to assist me with his 
advice. He was of opinion that by tak- 
ing three hundred roubles I should ob- 
serve a proper medium. I fixed upon 
that sum, and had then no other wish 
than to proceed on my journey within 
two hours. In vain did the Governor 
s me to stay a few days at To- 
bolsk ; 1 answered with some degree of 
impatience, that I considered every hour 
which did not convey me nearer to my 
wife as a robbery committed upon her, 



*34 

He acquiesced in this reasoning, and 
turning with apparent emotion towards 
a lady that sat near him, he explained 
to her, in the Russian language, what I 
had just said. He promised to give, or- 
ders to hasten my departure, and even 
offered to compel the man who had so 
shamefully cheated me in the purchase 
of my carriage to return it to me for the 
same sum which he had paid for it. I 
thanked him for his kindness, but pre- 
ferred rather to pursue the journey in 
an inconvenient kibick than be liable to 
stop every moment on the road to re- 
pair the carriage. 

I did not, however, depart so speedily 
as I had hoped. The payment of the 
three hundred roubles, which I would 
gladly have renounced, required many 
formalities. The Governor was obliged 
to write to the city-chamber, the mem- 
bers of which attended on public busi- 



ness only in the forenoon ; it was too 
late that day, and I was under the neces-, 
sity of passing that night at Tobolsk. 

I dined with the Governor, and went 
afterwards to see my good friends Ki- 
niakoff, Becker, and the excellent Pater- 
son, who all received me with expres- 
sions of the sincerest friendship. On 
my return home I found my Courier, 
but he was unable to give me any infor- 
mation relative to my family. His pri- 
vate instructions, which he gave me to 
read, proved indeed that the Emperor 
was perfectly convinced of my inno- 
cence, since he was charged to take the 
greatest care of me on the route, and to 
treat me wscikie udowolst-icre^ that is to 
say, to do every thing that could con- 
tribute to my satisfaction. 

For this purpose, indeed, a bad choice 
had been made in the person of the Cou- 
rier, M, Carpow was one of the most 



i 3 6 

ill-bred and slovenly young men in the* 
world, extremely fond of his ease, and 
as lazy as a spoiled lap-dog ; never giv- 
ing himself the least trouble about any 
thing. It was a matter of indifference 
to him whether we travelled fast or 
slow : he did not even possess the talent 
so common to people of his condition, 
of hurrying the post-masters and drivers 
by assuming an air of importance, and 
bestowing threats and curses upon them. 
He was a mere log ; and his invincible 
apathy has often put my patience to the 
severest trial. In other respects he was a 
good sort of a fellow j he had been for- 
merly an apothecary's apprentice,and per- 
haps was well enough calculated for his 
post at the mortar. He was much vexed 
at not being able to stay and indulge 
himself a few days longer at Tobolsk. 
It was likewise rather difficult to satisfy 
him in respect to money : when. I gave 



*37 

him a hundred roubles on our first in- 
terview, it seemed the sum did not equal 
his expectations. 

During the whole evening my room 
was crowded with people, who came to 
congratulate me, some of whom were 
known, and others quite unknown to 
me. The Governor himself honoured 
me with a visit, and the whole town 
vied in paying me the same compliment. 

This night was the first I had passed 
in Siberia in pleasant and uninterrupted 
repose. I rose early next morning, in 
the hope of being able to set oft by nine 
o'clock, for which purpose I had already 
encased a boat : but unfortunately I 
was obliged to wait till the evening, be- 
fore the petty business of the three hun- 
dred roubles was decreed, signed, and 
concluded ! I ought perhaps to consider 
this delay as a most fortunate circum- 
stance, as during the whole day there 



fe£| 

were several storms, which might have 
overset the boat. I derived also another 
advantage from this delay. I had con- 
sented, out of mere complaisance, to 
take the son of a German taylor to Pe- 
tersburg in the capacity of a servant. 
His friends had concealed from me that 
he was subject to sickness and fits, and 
I should have had a very troublesome 
travelling companion in the poor youth, 
had not my further detention given me 
an opportunity of discovering his infir- 
mity. 

It was, however, much against my 
will that I dined and supped once more 
with my friends at Tobolsk. Towards 
evening every thing w r as ready, when 
the wind and rain still compelled me to 
defer my departure for some hours. I 
fixed it for three the next morning, and 
threw myself upon my bed without tak- 
ing off my clothes. 



*39 

I was the first person awake in the 
house, or, to express myself with more 
accuracy, I did not close my eyes. At 
day-break I caused my lazy companion 
to be roused from his slumbers. The 
tempest was rather increased than dimi- 
nished, yet I resolved to wait no lor.. 
At four o'clock we were on the 
of the Irtisch, and I saw with i 
that my carriage was aire:. a board 
the agitated vessel. ;; Will 
be dangerou- 

extras o,*' replied he (ne 

apasnoj. This expres 
alarming, yet incl >a got 

of fear, and in spite of a": 
Id urge, I told the fa 
cee 

abcxamf 
to the river. He ap 
dug le&ye ; 

. feigned, most pi 



:r 



140 

the loss of his opportunities to pilfer me : 
for although I gave him a considerable 
gratuity, besides paying him the wages 
due to him, I discovered, on opening my 
portmanteau, that he had divided with 
me the few things which I possessed. I 
say divided*, for he had left me exactly 
one half of every thing : he had even 
cut the sheet which I carried with me 
in half. May he enjoy soft and pleasant 
slumbers upon it ; and no doubt but he 
may, for what is called conscience was far 
from being the foible of this fellow. 

At length we put oft', and the joy with 
which I beheld the water that rippled 
between me and the shore cannot be 
described. My eyes were fixed upon the 
town as it receded from my view ; 
upon the mass of buildings which gra- 
dually disappeared ; and I should have 
continued to enjoy this charming scene;, 
at once so affecting and so pleasing, had 



141 

not the increasing violence of the tem- 
pest, the motion of the bark, and the 
cries of the pilot and boatmen, aroused 
me from my reverie. 

As long as we steered over the de- 
luged fields, as long as we coasted the 
forests, we went on pleasantly enough ; 
but when we were obliged to venture 
out at sea, (the reader will pardon the 
expression) or cross the sinuosities of the 
Irtisch and the Tobol, the danger became 
imminent. The waves rolled over the 
boat every moment, and we were obliged 
to scoop out the water with our hats, or 
in any manner w r e could. No one could 
stand upright without being in danger 
of falling overboard, and at the moment 
when we endeavoured to cross the To- 
bol in the teeth of the wind, our bark 
was on the point of foundering. The 
day before, such an accident had actually 
happened. It was only by crowding all 



142 

together on the elevated side of the ves- 
sel, that we could have preserved an 
equilibrium, and thus have saved our- 
selves from instant death. 

We likewise met with shallows, where 
the grass that grew in the meadows over 
which we passed appeared above water - T 
here we often ran aground.. It was then 
necessary for the rowers to wade half- 
way up their bodies in water to push 
the barge afloat again, which often re- 
quired much time and labour. 

At length, after toiling for more than 
seven hours, we happily arrived on the 
opposite shore, and from this moment 
all our fatigues on water were at an end* 
as every one of the other rivers which 
had so much incommoded me on my 
way to Siberia, had now sunk into their 
usual channels. The gloomy Sura, the 
beautiful Kama, the majestic Wolga, the 
rapid Wiatka, had all subsided, as if 



143 

they had been averse to interrupt my re* 
turn. 

A new danger, however , threatened 
me a little before my arrival at Tiumen. 
I felt myself exceedingly indisposed. I 
was ignorant of the cause of this malady, 
the symptoms of which were quite new 
to me. My whole frame underwent 
such violent agitations, that I could no 
longer bear the motion of the carriage, 
even at a moderate rate. I had unfor- 
tunately no remedy at. hand, except a 
little lemonade powder. My good friend 
Paterson had offered me some medicines 
when I was at Tobolsk, but as I had no 
idea that so happy a journey could be 
attended with sickness, I had refused 
them; indeed had I taken them, I should 
not have known what to have used, as 
I was ignorant of the cause of my illness. 
There was no remedy then but patience; 
and the tormenting idea of being so near 



144 

the end of my journey, and yet to die 
before I had embraced my family, \\ f as 
ill calculated to inspire patience. 

I was conveyed slowly on as far as 
Tiumen, where we arrived in the after- 
noon. My Courier advised me to remain 
here till I grew better, but I was averse 
to all delay ; and the best assistance I 
could have procured at Tiumen would 
perhaps have been an ignorant surgeon, 
as there was no physician in the place. 
I preferred, therefore, at all events, to 
continue my route. Am I not, thought 
I to myself, on the frontiers of Siberia ? 
At least I will pass beyond the limits of 
my exile before I die. 

We proceeded, but my pains increased 
to such a degree, that at the next post I 
was unable to bear the least motion of 
the carriage, and was obliged to pass the 
night in a miserable village. It was al- 
ready evening: I caused a bed to be 



**45 

made in my kibick in the best manner 
it could be done, and endeavoured to 
sleep. I was, however, unable to close 
my eye-lids ; my illness was now at its 
crisis : it was long and violent, but my 
constitution triumphed at length, and 
to this struggle I am perhaps indebted 
for that health which I enjoyed all last 
winter, during which I was in better 
health than I had experienced for the 
twelve preceding years. 

The next morning I was able, though 
extremely weak, to continue my jour- 
ney, and at ten o'clock I again saw the 
direction-post in the forest that indi- 
cated the boundaries df Tobolsk, and 
which I had before beheld with such 
heart-felt grief. 

On my former journey I had been al- 
lowed to purchase at Moscow a few 
bottles of Burgundy to strengthen my 
stomadi. I paid at the rate of four 

VOL. II. k 



146 

roubles a bottle. The state of my 
iinances not permitting me to indulge 
in extravagance, I had only purchased 
three bottles : two were emptied on my 
arrival at, Tobolsk; the third accompa- 
nied me to Kurgan.: I had preserved it 
as a treasure, and destined it for the 
celebration of the day of my wife's ar- 
rival. I now drew the cork, in the face 
of this post, with the assistance of a cork- 
screw my dear mother had given me 
last new-year's-day, and which Inow 
used for the first time. I drank several 
glasses. I shed tears of joy. I made the 
courier and the driver drink with me, 
and then broke the empty bottle against 
the post;; after which, with a light heart, 
and as if I had nothing more to fear, I 
gaily cried, " Drive on postilion/' 

As my health continued to mend, I 
recovered my accustomed flow of spirits, 
and quickened the progress .of my jour- 



147 

ney. I had, however, two difficulties to 
combat with : the first arose from the 
bad condition of my kibick ; it was old 
when I bought it, and had carried me, 
including the journey, to and from Kur- 
gan, more than four hundred leagues. 
It grew more and more out of order 
every hour, and at length began to crack 
in .the most 'alarming manner, I had 
been obliged to stop a dozen times to 
have it repaired, and I was aware the 
moment was not far off in which I 
should be left in -the middle of the high- 
way. I determined, therefore, to dis- 
pose of it at the next stage, and to make 
use of the post kibicks, notwithstanding 
they are the most incommodious of all 
vehicles. They are in fact mere carts t 
generally without any covering, and so 
short, that the traveller cannot lie in 
them at full length. They are changed 
at every stage, which, besides the trouble 



148 

of loading and unloading the baggage, 
exposes the traveller to the inconve- 
nience of quitting his bed in the coldest 
night, and in all weathers. Scarcely per- 
haps has he, by covering himself up to 
the chin with the bed clothes, be^an to 
feel warmth j when the kibick stops, and 
he is compelled to quit it for another. 

My Courier made all these representa- 
tions to me : aware how much he should 
suffer by this plan, he of course employ- 
ed all his rhetoric to dissuade me from 
adopting it. I had, however, calculated 
that we must lose a day or more in case 
the kibick broke down on the road ; I 
had considered the possibility of my dear 
wife being ill, perhaps dangerously ill ; 
that my arrival might contribute to her 
recovery ; and that an hour's delay might 
possibly render my arrival too late to 
save her life. These considerations tri- 
umphed over every difficulty, and de- 



14$ 

termined my conduct. At the next 
stage I enquired who was the poorest 
man in the village ; to him I made a . 
present of my old kibick, and in this 
manner removed the first obstacle. It 
was far more difficult to overcome the 
second ; for what steps could be taken to 
give activity to my lazy automaton of a 
Courier ? Every expedient had hitherto 
proved of no avail ; presents, threats, 
ridicule and reproaches were all in vain ; 
his indolence was invincible : he was 
perpetually yawning, and crying out 
that we had time to spare. It was surely 
as a punishment for my sins that this 
most dilatory, most stupid of all cou- 
riers was selected. 

In the midst of all the distress which 
I felt on this occasion, an angel of deli- 
verance appeared in the person of Was- 
sill Sukin, whom the Emperor had dis- 
patched with all possible speed from hi- 



*5f 
anti-chamber to restore to liberty a mer- 
chant whom Prince Potemkin had ba- 
nished to Siberia eight years ago. The 
Courier, who had arrived at Tobolsk be- 
fore I left that place, had waited for the 
prisoner there, who had been exiled, if 
I am not mistaken, to Pelim, a thousand 
verstes farther up the country. They 
could not J ve set out till some days, 
after my departure. The Merchant ar- 
rived at Tobolsk with his legs swelled 
and full of sores, but in spite of the shat- 
tered state of his health, impatience fur- 
nished him with wings. He set off, and,, 
thanks to the laziness of my friend Car- 
pow r , he overtook us in the neighbour- 
hood of Ekatarinabourg. 

Prom this moment we proceeded with 
rapidity. Wassili Sukin was a spirited, 
active young man ; he looked after the 
relays of horses himself, and either kind 
or rigid, as circumstances required, knew 



how to handle the whip* and to spur on 
both man and horse. Carpow, thus 
finding himself relieved from all kind 
of trouble, had nothing more to do 
than follow Sukin. Even in this, how- 
ever, he failed,- and we always arrived a 
quarter of an hour later at each stage. 
However, we found our hcrses always 
ready, and were never de ined a mo- 
ment, Had it not been for the service 
&ukin rendered me, I should not have 
arrived at Petersburg so soon as I did 
bv ten days. 

I must add one word more on the 
subject of the merchant who accom- 
panied me. He had been podrlidschlck 
to the Crown (a contractor for provisions 
and buildings) ; he had acquired great 
wealth, had a house at Petersburg, and 
another at Moscow. Being exasperated 
at some unnecessary delays, and a va- 
riety of frauds that had been practised 



*5* 

upon him by Prince Potemkin, he one 
day uttered some inconsiderate expres- 
sions in the anti-chamber of that favou- 
rite, and was instantly sent into banish- 
ment, and deprived of every thing he 
had, even to his very cloak. At Pelim, 
in the very heart of Siberia, he became 
what is called forgotten, and earned his 
bread bv working as a common labourer. 
He had even, according to hispwn ac- 
count, been announced as dead, in a 
formal report delivered to Government. 
This gentleman was ignorant by whom, 
or in what manner the Emperor had been 
informed of his innocence, and of his 
being still alive. When sent into banish- 
ment he had not been allowed to see his 
wife or his children, and since that time 
he had not heard any thing concerning 
them or his property. Let the reader 
imagine with what ardour he burned to 
see his family again. Although he was 



*53 

old and feeble, and obliged at every 
stage to have his wounds dressed, he 
never during the whole journey deferred 
the moment of our departure, but would 
even have travelled faster. 

On the 15th of July we arrived at 
Ekatarinabourcr, where we rested. I 
purchased some fine Siberian stones at 
the polishing manufactory, where ihey 
are sold very cheap. These I intended 
to present to my daughters for neck- 
laces, which from them might pass to 
my latest posterity, in memory of the 
most unhappy event of their father's 
life. 

As we were proceeding on our jour- 
ney, after quitting Ekatarinabourg, and 
were passing through an ill-paved town 
called Kungun, I very narrowly escaped 
being killed, in the following manner : 
We were driving very swiftly down a 
hill, when the axle-tree snapped, and the 



*I4 

kibick was overturned. My head touch- 
ed; the pavement, and as the horses con- 
tinued galloping, I was dragged over the 
stones, in the most imminent danger of 
being dashed to pieces.. My hat pre- 
served me in the first instance-— but I 
soon lost it, and must certainly have- 
perished, had not some peasants, whom 
a fair had drawn to the town, stopped 
the horses. I received a severe, contu- 
sion ; the postilion suffered still more, 
and bled very much ; while the passive 
Capow, who was sitting with his legs 
dangling over the side of the kibick,. 
was gently pitched into the mire. 

On the 1 8th we arrived at Perm, 
where I lodged with the honest clock- 
maker, Rosen burg, and peaceably rested 
my w r eary limbs upon the self-same sofa, 
on which two months before I lay agi- 
tated with despair. 

From Perm to Casan nothing parti- 



*55 

cular occurred, and the good spirits I 
enjoyed were only damped by the sight 
of the exiles we continually met w r ith 
on the road.* Some of them, like my- 
self were in their own carriages, others 
in open kibicks ; and a far greater num* 
ber, chained together in couples, tra- 
velled on foot, and were escorted by 
parties of armed peasants, who were re- 
lieved from village to village. Some of 
them had forked pieces of wood fastened 
about their necks, the handle of which 
huno* over their breasts and fell down 

o 

to their knees. In these handles were 
two holes, through which their hands, 
had been thrust by force. The spectacle 
was truly shocking — all those who walk- 
ed on foot asked our charity, and with 
what pleasure did I relieve them ! I, who 
was returning from my captivity ! I, 
who was flying to the arms of my fa- 
mily. 



i 5 6 

I likewise met several companies of 
emigrants destined to people the new- 
city which was building bf the Empe- 
ror's orders on the confines of China. 
The men and women walked on foot ; 
the children were perched upon the 
waggons, among bales and boxes, dogs 
and poultry. Their countenances did 
not express either hope or satisfaction. 

On the 22 d of July, at noon, I en- 
tered 1 the city of Casan, and lodged in 
a very handsome house, designed for 
purposes of public festivity, the mistress 
of which was extremely attentive and 
Obliging. I did not neglect paying a 
visit to the hospitable Justifei Timo- 
feitsch, whose house was so infested 
with taracans, to thank him once more 
for his former kindness. 

I was induced to spend the rest of the 
day at Casan, as a relation of my wife 
was married and settled there, with 



whom I wished to spjea&fc* as I knew she 
corresponded witk her friends in Esto* 
ma, and I flattered myself with the hope 
of learning some tidings from home S 
I trembled as I entered the house ; she 
received me with open arms ; but alas! 
had not a word of consolation for me, 
being totally unacquainted with the state 
of my family. One of her brothers, in- 
deed, had just written to her, and men^ 
tioned that Baroness Bellingshausen, my 
wife's sister, w r as preparing for a journey 
to Germany ; but of my wife, not a 
word was said ! If this brother of her's 
had been aware what pain his silence 
occasioned me, he certainly would not 
have carried his dread of the Govern- 
ment to such an excess ; he would have 
inserted a few lines, however insignifi- 
cant in the eye of a stranger, and with- 
out making any mention of my, name, 
at that moment so odious, would simply 



i 5 8 

have observed, " Our cousin is here or 
there ; is in good health, lives in such 
or such a manner/' I could indeed 
draw this consoling inference from his 
letter, that she was not dead ; for sure- 
ly, .said I, he would at least have ven- 
tured to have stated such an event as 
that. 

On my arrival at Casan I enjoyed a 
very agreeable surprise. Every one, 
whether -known or unknown, Germans, 
French and Russians, crowded to see 
me, and expressed, in a thousand ways, 
the good-will they bore me. They had 
heard two months before that I had 
passed through the town, and had given 
themselves much trouble to find me out, 
but in vain ; for my amiable Counsellor 
had taken effectual measures to prevent 
my being known. 

, Casan is a large and populous city, 
well built, and has a lively appearance/ 



The custom-house is not inferior to that 
of Petersburg, or Moscow, in the size of 
its structure, or the extensiveness of its 
busings. The antique fortress of the 
Khans of Tartary, which was demolished 
by I wan Wassilewitsch, rises above the 
heights of an adjacent rock, and forms 
a grand and picturesque spectacle. The 
building is very extensive ; part of its 
ruins has been lately restored, and is 
now inhabited by the commander of the 
town. 

The strangers resident at Casan are 
sociable, and their manner of life very 
agreeable. Were I obliged to live in the 
interior part of Russia, this would be 
the spot which I should prefer. 

On leaving Casan I was accompanied 
by half a dozen droschkas* and other 

* A kind of small carriage, composed of a mere 
bench, sometimes stuhed, and mounted upon four 
xv-heels. 



t6<3 

carriages, as far as the banks of the Wol- 
ga, which, on my first passage over it, 
reached to the very walls of the city, 
but now flowed in its regular bed seven 
verstes farther on. At Casan I purchased 
a kibick to continue my journey with 
more convenience. 

Having crossed the Wolga, Carpow 
shewed me the spot where he had met 
my Counsellor and Schulkins, whom he 
very much astonished by the news of 
my recal. The Counsellor particularly 
regretted his not having foreseen the fa- 
vourable turn that my affairs had taken. 
This regret did not arise from a very 
pure source. 

Between Casan and Novogorod, I saw 
at different times, and on both sides of 
the road, a group of armed men, seated 
round a great fire, the meaning of which 
my curiosity at last induced me to en- 
quire into. The information I received 



i6i 

was not of the most agreeable nature : 
They were parties of peasants under 
guard to cover the road, which was 
much infested by robbers, whom the fair 
of Makariow* had drawn in bands to 
this neighbourhood. Hitherto I had ob- 
served nothing suspicious on the way, 
a traveller, however, who meets the mail 
for the first time in this country, natu- 
rally concludes that the roads are very 
dangerous, which in fact they are, TIk*. 
kibick, in which the Courier rides with 
the mail, is always accompanied by four 
or fiye peasants armed with guns and 
swords, who are hardly able to keep up 
with it. This precaution, however, has 
only lately taken place, in consequence 
of an order of Paul I. which makes every 
Governor responsible for the mail within 

* Bnsching, the Geographer, mistakes in mak- 
ing Makariovv a mere convent, and not a town. 
VOL. II. L 



1&2 

the precincts of his jurisdiction. It is 
therefore natural that the Governors, 
especially of thinly-inhabited countries, 
, should provide against danger, This or- 
der, however, appears to me to be very 
severe; since, in a country where im- 
mense forests afford the robbers an im- 
pervious retreat, no human power is ablfc 
to prevent their depredations. 

On approaching Nischnei Novogorod, 
piy eyes were regaled with the sight of 
two objects which I had not for a long 
time met with. These were cherry-trees 
and bee-hives. It is well-known, though 
not accounted for, that there are neither 
bees nor cherries to be found in Siberia ; 
and that all fruit-bearing trees are un- 
known, or rarely to be found. The joy 
I felt at the sight of my old acquaint- 
ances was transporting. " L am now in 
Europe," I cried exultingly, " I am now 
near mv native home !" 



tig 

At Nischnei, I would fain have dined 
in the European manner, but could find 
nothing but a miserable Russian hut, 
without any tiling to eat ; nor was there 
a better inn in the whole place. Return- 
ing, after this fruitless search, to the 
door of the post-house, I began to make 
preparation for eating my bread and 
cheese in my kibick, while Sukin was 
gone into the house to hasten the arrival 
of fresh horses. Through him it was 
discovered who I was, and immediately 
a servant came from the mistress of the 
house to invite me in the most polite 
manner to dine with her. My long 
beard, uncombed hair, and my torn 
night gown, were sufficient apologies for 
excusing myself, but they were not ad- 
mitted as such. The servant was sent 
back to inform'me I should dine alone in 
a private room and be incommoded by 
no one. 



1 6-4 

I could not long resist such polite ill- 
treaties, and having been ill-suppliqd with 
food for several days past, I was tempted 
to accept the, invitation. I came down 
from the kibick, and entered the house 
very much resembling poor Tom in 
eKing.Lear. I was shewn into an elegant 
room, in -which. I found a table prepared, 
and where I was left to myself for seve- 
raL minutes. A young and handsome 
woman, the mistress of .the house, ex- 
ceedingly well dressed, then made her 
appearance, and addressed me in Ger- 
man, and asmbed the .rudeness she had 
been guilty of to her desire >of being ac- 
quain ted with me. 

Although a great admirer of the fair 
sex, I must confess this unexpected in- 
troduction threw me into the greatest 
embarrassment. I considered myself as 
Diogenes before Aspasia : all her affa- 
bility could not relieve me from the 



false shame that had wholly taken pos- 
session of me. Every time I cast my 
eyes upon my old night-gown, or took a 
peep in the looking-glass, I felt myself 
shrink into nothing. My perplexity was 
increased when I observed that the room 
was filling apace with men and women of 
the first consequence, both Germans and 
Russians,, who ail accosted; me in the 
politest manner, while I alone sat eating, 
like a King of France or Spain dining 
■in state. At one time the spectators in- 
terested my feelings, by expressions of 
the most affectionate concern which 
they took in my welfare ; and at ano- 
ther put me quite out of countenance 
by the extravagant praises they bestow- 
ed upon me. Nor was this all; the 
scene was not ended till the first vo- 
lume of my dramatic works had been 
sent for, in order to compare the portrait 
with the long-bearded original* 



i66 

Although my appetite and my vanity 
had been sufficiently pampered, I must 
confess, it was not till I had returned to 
my kibick, that I was able to relish the 
gratification of the last hour. Then it 
was (and why should I deny it ?) that 
the reflection on this singular scene on 
the confines of Asia, and in an uncivi- 
lized country, touched and flattered my 
heart. To have found at Nischnei-No- 
vogorod admirers of my muse, who 
were anxious to serve, to console, to 
honour me, because they recognized in 
Kie an old acquaintance, who had long 
since gained their esteem, was a singular 
kind of triumph ! And I prefer this re- 
compense to all the adulation of the 
public prints, since at the present day 
their praises of living authors is rarely 
pure or disinterested* 

I was again threatened with new perils 
on the road from Nischnei to Moscow,, 



i6j 

and from which I escaped through, my 
own vigilance. I had passed four nights 
without having slept, when towards even- 
ing, as it began to rain, I resolved to 
remain in a village till day-break. I or- 
dered the horses to be ready at four 
o'clock in the morning, and desired that 
I might be called at that hour. I was 
called accordingly, when locking to- 
wards the window, it appeared as if the 
day had begun to dawn, and I hurried 
into my kibick. Wasili Sukin and his 
merchant set out before me, and I fol- 
lowed them closely. They had a young 
tad for their driver, and mine was a 
man with a black beard and a savage 
countenance. 

I soon perceived that the light which 
I had taken for break of day was no- 
thing else than that of the moon. I 
took out my watch, and found it was 
only one o'clock. This surprised me 



1 63 

exceedingly : The Russian postilions, 
like all others, I knew had rather rise 
too late than too early ; and I was at a 
loss to account for my having been cal- 
led three hours before my time. I re- 
solved not to fall asleep on the road, and 
having nothing to fear, while the two 
carriages kept together, I ordered my 
driver not to loiter behind, which he 
often attempted, under various pretences, 
to do. 

My indolent Carpow, according to cus- 
tom, was soon fast asleep, yet, as 1 was 
not fully persuaded that my suspicions 
were well-grounded, I was unwilling to 
awaken him. The postilion often turned 
his head round, and eyed us one after 
the other. I looked him, however, full 
in the face every time he cast his eye to- 
wards me, as much as to say- — I am still 
awake. At length I determined to try 
what he would do in case he thought I 



i6g 

had fallen asleep, that I might take" my 
measures accordingly. I closed my eyes 
therefore, but peeped from time to time, 
whenever the motions of the postilion 
excited my suspicion. This precaution 
seemed the more necessary after I had 
observed that he carried a long knife, in 
a sheath, by his side. I had caught a 
glimpse of this formidable weapon as he 
was getting down from his seat to fasten 
a cord that had given way in the harness. 
Both I and the Courier were unarmed, 
and two backward stabs, which he might 
have given us without getting off his 
box, would easily have dispatched us 
had we been asleep. 

Scarcely had I begun to play my part, 
and appeared to be fast asleep, when he 
turned towards me and looked at me for 
some time, in a very steadfast manner. 
Hitherto intimidated by my threats and 



170 

maledictions, he had followed the other 
kibick rather closely; but from this mo- 
ment he began to slacken his pace. The 
better to be convinced of his bad inten- 
tentions, I suffered the first carriage to 
advance a little before ours ; but the 
postilion had soon occasion to stop to 
repair his harness, an accident that com- 
monly happens every quarter of an houi? 
on the road. My driver likewise alighted 
on pretence of fastening a belt. It began 
to grow light however, and I could 
plainly see that the belt had not been 
loose ; and that the fellow appeared to be 
busy in adjusting it, the better to ob- 
serve whether I was asleep or not. 

As soon as he thought himself safe, he 
called out to the young lad in a low voice, 
and said several words which I did not 
understand : I judged by the answer of 
the latter, that he had asked what the 



t 7 l 

two travellers were doing, for the boy 
replied by the single word spit^ " they 
are both asleep." 

They now began a conversation in a 
kind of whisper, which lasted a consi- 
derable time, and during which, it will 
not be supposed, I was at all at my ease* 
This conversation I soon thought fit to 
interrupt, by a volley of maledictions, 
and calling the postilion a scoundrel to 
his face. He protested that he was in- 
nocent of any bad design ; but I main- 
tained, in a firm manner, that I had over- 
heard all their discourse, and at the same 
time took care to speak of the impor- 
tance of the dispatches I had with me, 
and threatened to shoot him with a pis- 
tol, though I had not one in my posses- 
sion.- I likewise roused my Courier, and 
told him what had passed ; and leaping 
out of my kibick, I hastened to awaken 
the merchant and Sukin. We were all 



1/2 

on our legs in a moment, and my Voice,, 
which echoed in the forest, seemed to 
acquire new strength. We all joined in 
the most violent reproaches ; the posti- 
lion mounted his seat, grumbled, and 
drove on without looking either on one 
side or the other. 

At the distance of a verste from the 
spot where this happened, we perceived 
two men in* the middle of the road^ who 
appeared to be waiting for us ; for I had; 
remarked, some time before we came up 
to them, that they were standing still. 
The moment the postilion saw them, he 
began to make a noise with his horses,: 
as if he wished to signify to these men 
that we were not asleep. We drove 
very fast by these fellows, who stared 
at us very attentively, but durst not 
venture to attack us, and we arrived in 
safety at the next stage. 

I am fully convinced that a scheme had 



m 

been formed to assassinate, or, at leasts 
to rob us. This project was chiefly di- 
rected against me, and the affair explains 
itself naturally enough. The merchant 
travelled in an open kibick:; it was easy 
to discover what he had with him when 
his baggage was handed from one car- 
riage to another, and it afforded nothing 
worth the trouble of stealings while, on 
the contrary, it might be supposed that 
my covered kibick contained hidden 
treasures. I had likewise opened my 
travelling box the evening before, in 
which a silver coffee-pot, and other plate, 
might have been noticed. Nor was it 
necessary to be a deep physiognomist to 
perceive that Carpow was a stupid fel- 
low that might easily be dispatched. The 
plan, according to all appearance, was to 
let Sukin and the merchant gain ground 
upon us ; we should then have lagged 
behind to the spot where the two fellows 



/ 



*74 

were posted to way-lay us : there we 
should have been robbed, perhaps mur- 
dered, and the postilion in either case 
could have maintained that he was in- 
nocent of all connivance. What still 
further confirms me in my conjecture is, 
that the postilion, at the beginning of 
the stage, was always complaining that 
he could not make his horses move ; 
and afterwards, when his scheme was 
defeated, and he had no interest in re- 
tarding them, they went on with more 
spirit than those which the young lad 
drove. 

On the 28th of July, having at length 
escaped all the dangers of a long journey 
of so many dreary, solitary miles, I be- 
held the immense city of Moscow rising 
majestically before me. 

I stopped a while on an eminence to 
enjoy the fine scene it afforded, but soon 
hastened within its walls, full of the 



i75 

pleasing hope of hearing at last some ao 
count of my family ; and after having 
driven through a number of streets, I 
alighted at an hotel which belonged ta 
a good old French woman, whom M. 
Becker had recommended to me. After 
a few hours necessary repose, 'of which I 
stood in great need, and which I had 
hardly patience to take ; and after hav- 
ing cleaned myself, and with the assis- 
tance of the comb and razor, recovered 
the appearance of a human creature, I 
waited on M. Francis Courtener, a 
bookseller, of whom M. Becker had 
spoken in the highest terms of appro* 
bation. I found him just as he had been 
described to me, and he received me 
with the most cordial hospitality. 

My first question was, whether he could 
give me any information of my wife. He 
remembered to have heard, in a vague 
maimer, that the Emperor had sent for 



i;6 

ker to Petersburg, and had received her 
in the most gracious manner. I inter- 
rupted him to enquire whence he had 
the account, but he could not recollect 
it. 

I accompanied him on a vist to M. 
Karamshi, an entertaining writer, known 
even in Germany by his " Letters of a 
Russian Traveller/' He received me in 
a very friendly manner, and informed 
me that he had likewise heard the above- 
mentioned rumour : he knew not how- 
ever from what source it had arisen, 
but both he and M. Courtener promised 
that they would endeavour to trace it 
out. 

The reader may imagine what pleasure 
I felt in the society of authors and book- 
sellers, after having passed four months 
almost wholly destitute of literary food ! 
M. Karamsin's cabinet too, was furnished 
with engravings of the principal authors 



m 

of Germany ; and I could speak to him 
of Wieland, of Schiller, of Herder, and 
Gothe, and of my dear native country, 
to which he seemed to be very partial. 

I passed this and the following day at 
Moscow, and amused myself in examin- 
ing the curiosities of the place. My 
hopes of hearing farther particulars re- 
lative to my fumily proved fruitless, and 
I quickly considered the story of her ar- 
rival at Petersburg, as an unfounded re- 
port. 

I should have been glad to have paid 
a visit to General Mertcns, to have re- 
called to memory the melancholy mo- 
ments we passed together on the Wolga, 
but he was making a tour through his 
government. 

At Wischnei Wolotschok, which lay 
no more than four hundred and thirty- 
two verstes from Petersburg, I deter- 
mined to separate from my worthy 

VOL. II. M 



t 

178 

WassiliSukin, who hitherto had accom- 
panied me out of mere complaisance, on 
account of the laziness of my Courier, 
and to suffer him to go forwards, that 
in case my wife should really be at Pe- 
tersburg, he might inform her of my 
speedy arrival, I gave him a note for 
her, in which I begged her to meet me 
at the first stage- I gave him, at the 
same time, the address of my old and 
faithful friend Graumann,* from whom 
he might learn if she was at Petersburg, 
and where she lodged. 

He set off, accompanied xvith my best 
wishes, and I calculated that he would 
arrive at the capital twenty-four hours 
Before me. It seemed that the mark of 
confidence which I had just given Sukin, 
roused the ambition of my slow and 



An intimacy of twenty-four years has produced 
iteration in our reciprocal sentiments. 



m 

heavy companion, for he now became 
much more alert and attentive than usual. 
We passed through the city of Novogo- 
rod, famous for the Hansiatic alliance, 
without making any stay, and at every 
sta°;e we came to, we learnt that Sukbi 
had set off but a few hours before. 

At the last stao;e but one he had left 
his passport, without which he could 
not have ventured to enter Petersburg- 
He waited our arrival, at the last post* 
under great apprehension .; fortunately, 
"however, we had taken care of his pa- 
pers, which we gave him. It was now 
about four in the afternoon, and I step- 
ped into my kibick, for the last time, 
with a palpitating heart. 

At Zarskoxelo, a country palace of the 

Emperor's, we were stopped three or 

..four times by' the piquet-guard, whose 

tedious examinations cost me many a 

sigh. But my patience was now put to 



i8o 

a severer test : A number of troops hav- 
ing received orders to march on this 
day to Gatschina, the Emperor's favo- 
rite residence, to be reviewed there, I 
met, within a dozen verstes of Peters- 
burg, six regiments on their march, with 
their ammunition waggons, forges, &c. 
through w r hich it was impossible to 
make my way. I had a long hour to 
wait, during which my impatience be- 
came intolerably painful. 

Nor w r as this all ; I had very nearly 
fallen into serious trouble. The Grand 
Duke Alexander was on horseback at 
the head of the troops. I did not know 
him, and even had I 'been acquainted 
with his person, I was ignorant of the 
order that required every person to get 
out of his carriage when any of the 
Imperial family passed by. My indo- 
lent Courier seemed to know as little 
::s myself, and we remained in out* 



iSi 

places. I should infallibly have been ar- 
rested and carried to the police prison, 
if the gracious Prince, who, notwith- 
standing he looked us full in the face, 
had not shewn himself superior to no- 
ticing our involuntary neglect. 

At nine in the evening we arrived at 
the barriers of the capital, where we un- 
derwent, as we did soon after at the 
gate, a long and troublesome examina- 
tion. A Cossack on horseback accom- 
panied us from thence to the comman- 
der, who lodged in the Imperial palace. 
The two Couriers alighted and went in, 
w 7 hile I remained on this well-known 
spot, in the most tormenting state of 
anxiety and distress. 

A quarter of an hour passed in this 
manner, after which we were taken to 
Count Pahlen, the military Governor 
of the city. He was from home, and we 
jiad'to travel still farther. I was ex- 



1 8z 

tremcly desirous, late as it was, to be 
set down at my friend Graumann's, but 
the Couriers had received strict orders 
to deliver us up to the Court-advocate, 
and we were driven to his house. He 
was at Gatschina, and his deputy in the 
department of secret dispatches, M. Fuchs, 
Counsellor of State, lived at a great dis- 
tance from thence. What was to be 
clone ? The Couriers left the merchant 
and myself in the open street under the 
guard of the Court-advocate's servants, 
who had crowded to the door out of 
mere curiosity ; and hastened to IVL 
Fuchs 5 lodgings. 

I remained full half an hour leaning 
over the parapet wall of the Moika, con- 
templating its peaceful current, while 
my heart was torn by a thousand differ- 
ent emotions. At length the Couriers 
returned, and M. Fuchs came soon after 
them. He spoke to me with great po- 



183- 

liteness, and provided me with a small 
chamber at his office for that night. To 
the request I had made of being allowed 
to be driven to my friend Craumann's, 
he replied^ that although I was no lon- 
ger absolutely a state-prisoner, it was 
his immediate duty to make his report 
at Gatschina, for the purpose of obtain- 
ing final orders ; and that he would in- 
stantly send oft an express- The answer 
could not arrive before the next day ; 
and he begged I would accept of such 
accommodations as he could procure for 
me that night. 

I enquired after my wife, but he was 
unable to give me any account of her ; 
the dream of hope, therefore, which had 
accompanied me in so agreeable a man- 
ner, from Moscow to Petersburg, was 
now at an end. 

1 likewise asked him, why I had bee;, 
exiled? All the information he* coul.I 



1 84 

give me on this subject was, that every- 
thing had been done by the special order 
of the Emperor, who, he added, had 
enquired a few days since whether I was 
returned. He assured me all" my papers 
were in the hands of the Court-advo- 
cate, and would be faithfully restored 
to me. He then took his leave, and re- 
tired to hasten the departure of his 
Courier, 

The night passed away in a very me- 
lancholy manner, and I was unable to 
close my eyes. I felt myself more de- 
luded than ever, as my desire of seeing 
my family had never been so strong, 
nor my expectations so well founded. 
To the vexation of this disappointment 
was added the gloomy impressions aris- 
ing from the chamber in which I lay. 
It was a low and narrow room, into 
which both innocent and guilty were 
Indiscriminately thrown, as soon as they 



i8 5 

fell into the power of the Secret Inqui- 
sition, Excepting a bed, a table, a .bed- 
stead and a chair, nothing but the four 
wails was to be seen. The bedstead 
swarmed with vermin, v which prevented 
even an attempt to sleep. With what 
delight did I behold the break of day ! 
With what impatience did I await the 
return of the Courier, who was to bring 
me liberty, and enable me to fly to my 
friend Graumann ! 

At about eight o'clock M. Fuchs cal- 
led upon me again. He had not received 
any answ r er from Gatschina ; but how 
great were my transports, when he in- 
formed me that my wife was in Peters- 
burg. It was the sensation of a palsied 
man restored in a moment to the use of 
' his limbs by an electric stroke. I was 
frantic with delight: tears of joy started 
from my eyes. •" Where is she?" was 
all my answer. He could not tell me 5 



m 

nor was he able to release me from the 
restraint I still lay under ; but he in- 
formed me I was at full liberty to send 
for any person I wished to see. 

I immediately dispatched Sukin in 
quest of M. Graumann ; he quickly came 
back and informed me of the transports 
of my worthy friend, who had made 
hiKi a handsome present, and sent me 
the following: billet : 

" Your wife and your children are 
well, and lodge not far from me. Be- 
fore you see them, call on me, that I 
may prepare Madame de Kotzebue for 
this meeting ; sudden joy may prove 
fatal to her." 

Sukin returned to inform him, that 
I was not yet allowed to go out, but 
that I might receive any one where I 
was ; and I conjured him by the friend- 
ship that had subsisted between us, to 
let me see my family as soon as possible* 



i8; 

He came. I shall not speak of our 
mutual joy ; the scene was the first step 
only that led me to my domestic para- 
dise. He told me my wife was in good 
health, though still weak, in conse- 
quence of a miscarriage my misfortune 
had occasioned. He convinced me of 
the necessity of preparing her by slow 
degrees for my reception, notwithstand- 
ing she had expected me for some time 
past. I saw the propriety of his advice, 
and yielded. , 

Before he came to me he had been 
with her. His chearful countenance ap- 
pearing to her a good omen, she had 
received him with these words, " You 
have certainly some news from my hus- 
band !" He replied he had, and that I 
was not far off. Upon this he shewed 
her the note I had written him from 
Wischnei Wolotschok, in which I had 
begged her to meet me at the first stage. 



1 88 

Wassilt Sukin had given my note, tho 9 
now of no use, into his hands, with that 
I had written from the secret expedition 
office, and my friend had been able to 
convert it to a good purpose. My im- 
patient wife, quite wild at seeing my 
note, immediately sent to order post- 
horses, and determined to set off in an 
instant. She requested Graumann to 
hasten to the military Governor of the 
city to procure a passport, without 
which no one, at that time, was al- 
lowed to go beyond the gates. This he 
was obliged to promise, in order to ap- 
pease her ; and under pretence of going 
fo the Governor, he left her and re- 
paired to me. 

He found me equally restless and im- 
patient. I blessed and condemned his 
prudence at the same moment, and he 
now left me with the promise of bring- 



189 

ing my wife to me as soon as he thought 
it could be done without danger. 

As he entered her room, she cried 
out, " Where is the passport ?" " You 
have no occasion for one/' he replied. 
" He is arrived I" said she, and then 
fiiiiiffher arms about his neck. 

In vain he attempted to reason with 
her : he was obliged to conduct her to 
me that very moment in his coach, and 
ah he could obtain from her was, t 
she would stay some minutes in the car- 
riage, while he gave me information of 
her arrival. 

I was conversing with M. Fuchs, when 
Graumann, with the countenance of an 
angel, burst into the room : u Your 
wife is here," said he. I could not con- 
tain myself, but uttered aloud cry of joy. 
M. Fuchs had the delicacv to retire, to 
avoid disturbing the first moments of cur 
re-union. Graumann was cone to con- 



190 

duct her to me. I stood trembling at th6 
window, which was just over the gate- 
way : I saw my wife enter ; I staggered 
towards the door ; she rushed in, and 
fainted in my arms. 

Who can attempt the description of 
such a scene ! I pity the man who can- 
not enter into my feelings on this occa- 
sion. Yes, there are moments in life 
which counterbalance years, that com- 
pen-sate for a series of years of misery ! 
I would not at this moment have relin- 
quished for the world the remembrance 
of what I had suffered : the enjoyment 
of this one moment over balanced it all. 

With the assistance of my friend, I 
had placed my wife on the only chair 
the room' afforded. Kneeling down and 
hiding my face in her lap, I wept such 
tears as I had never wept before, and 
waited till her senses should return. She 
-recovered, and hanging affectionately 



i 9 1 

over me, mingled her tears with mine. 
My friend walked silently about the 
room ; he was much affected ; he was 
not an /Indifferent spectator of this af- 
fecting scene ; he shared in the trans- 
ports of it. Generous man ! This hour 
has recompensed thee for all thou hast 
done for me and mine : Thou hast en- 
joyed a scene which is not often repre- 
sented on the great stage of the world, 
and thou felt that thy disinterested 
friendship had contributed to prepare it. 
After the first transports of delight 
had in some degree subsided, after we had 
recovered our speech, what questions 
v;e had to ask ! What answers ! What 
broken recitals and narrations ! How 
often did we interrupt each other, and 
smile and kiss off' the tear that bedewed 
our cheeks ! It seemed as if our graves 
3iad been opened, as if we were rising 
from the earth, and had become two 



192 

celestial substances, enjoying a new 
union in a better world, and casting a 
last look upon the sufferings we had un- 
dergone in our terrestrial careen 

My dear wife then related what had 
happened to her from the moment of 
our separation. She mentioned her re- 
covery from her first swoon, the death- 
like silence that surrounded her, and 
which was only interrupted by the sobs 
of our eldest daughter, who was -seated 
on the ground in the corner of the 
room, and weeping in silence. 

In vain had I flattered myself, under 
my affliction, that the Governor of Cour- 
land and his family would have taken 
pity on them : neglected by them and 
the world, she only found compassion 
and consolation in a quarter where she 
had no right to expect it ; at the inn 
at which we had alighted. The land- 
lord and his wife (the name of these 



*93 

worthy people is Rader) treated her with 
humanity and delicacy, and afforded the 
finest example of disinterested feelings, 
even in a condition of life in which their 
absence would have been excuseable. — 
Obliged by misfortune and our separa- 
tion, as much as by reason and neces- 
sity, to observe the strictest ceconomy, 
my wife intended to deny the children 
their accustomed dainties, but Madame 
Rader supplied them by stealth, and 
likewise placed jellies and other delica- 
cies of the kind upon the table of their 
sick mother, without making any extra 
charge in the bill. 

General d'Essen,* to whom we are 

* The same wha commanded in Holland, after 
the unfortunate battle in which General Herman 
was taken prisoner, and who was soon after dis- 
missed from the service, because hated the wit- 

jness of his exploits. • 

VOL. II. N 



194 

lelated, came regularly twice a day to 
see my wife, without caring for the dan- 
ger to which he was exposed, although 
he himself had already been so much the 
Object of calumny. He did all he could 
to console and divert his kinswoman. — 
May God reward him for it ! 

M. de Wachter, Counsellor of the 
Regency, and his lady, whose acquaint- 
ance we had first made at Reval, and 
"with whom we had been but slightly 
connected, proved on this occasion, that 
misfortune strengthens the bonds of 
friendship. 

With what pleasure! with what gra- 
titude do I here mention the small num- 
ber of generous-minded people, who as- 
sisted my wife, as much as was in their 
power, to support the burthen that 
bowed her to the earth. 

M. de Weitbecht, the Secretary, had 
one single time the goodness to pay a 



195 

visit to my wife, and to be- angry that 
she wept* " Do not weep, Madame," 
he cried, over and over again ; " of what 
use are your tears ?" She insisted on see* 
ing the Governor. " The Governor," 
replied he, " has as great an aversion as 
myself to see people cry." " Ah," re- 
plied my wife, " if he is determined not 
to see the unhappy, let him resign his 
office." 

At last she obtained an audience. $& 
de Driesen received her in his morning 
gown, with his pipe in his mouth, and 
said a thousand pretty unmeaning things 
to her, but never asked her to sit down. 
He made excuses for Madame de Drie- 
sen, who, he said, was not able to re- 
ceive her, on account of her pregnancy ; 
as if that circumstance would not allow 
her to be seen by an unfortunate sufferer 
of her own sex. After some moments 
of vague conversation, during which 



196 

he concealed every thing that related to 
my situation ; he put an end to the visit, 
conducted my wife to the door, and 
from that, time took no further notice 
of her* She continued to expect my re- 
turn from Petersburg every moment ; at 
the rumbling of every carriage that pas- 
sed by, she would run to the window* 
Every letter which she wrote was in- 
spected by the Governor, and she was 
forbidden to mention a word relative to 
my misfortune or her own situation. 
Not one of these letters were transmit- 
ted to the persons for whom they were 
intended ; but all of them were tran- 
scribed and the copies seat .to Petersburg. 
A single letter happily reached my friend 
Graumann, the worthy Rader having 
put it into the post-office with his own 
hands. 

Thank heaven, I can now, without 
the least danger, submit to the public 



i97 

eye every incident, and every trait of 
character connected with my history. 

At length, after fifteen days of an- 
xious expectation, my wife obtained the 
Emperor's leave to retire to Estonia, to 
one of her relations. She left Mittau, and 
arrived at Riga, where she was obliged 
to make some stay on account of her 
health. The master of the hotel de Pe- 
tersburg, M. Langwitz, was imprudent 
enough to reply, when asked by her, it 
I had lodged there in my way through 
Riga ; " O no ! they took him directly 
to Tobolsk."— What must have been 
her horror ! She had not, till then, en- 
tertained the slightest idea of my ba~ 
nifhment ! She, however, soon began, 
to discredit the account, and my friend, 
Eckhardt, Counsellor of the Regency, 
with the assistance of some other hu- 
mane people, at last succeeded, in some 
degree^ in tranquillizing her mind, 



19$ 

I snatch this opportunity of naming, 
at the head of these compassionate and 
worthy persons, M. de Richter, Gover- 
nor of Riga. He instantly visited my 
wife, and treated her in the rnoft deli- 
cate and generous manner ; and by the 
contrast made her doubly sensible of the 
hardlhips she had undergone at Mittau* 
The only thing he refused her was, the 
information where I was; he assured 
her, however, that I was neither {hut 
up in the fortress of Riga, nor in the 
neighbourhood ; and that he had receiv- 
ed a very satisfactory account respecting 
my existence and my health. 

I must mention also, with gratitude, 
two other persons, whom the ties of 
blood, and the feelings of humanity, 
equally attached to my unhappy wife; 
and these are Count and Countess Siev- 
ers de Wenden. This generous pair flew 
to their relation, and treated her with 



'99 

the most delicate attentions. Let them 
not, on reading these lines, mistake 
them for the measure of my gratitude* 
but assure themselves, that it can only 
be equalled in extent and force by their 
own noble sentiments. 

Though my wife was consoled by the 
kind interest which the Governor of 
Riga, and the whole -town-, took in my 
extraordinary affair; though she was 
comforted by the tender and brotherly 
attentions of my friend Eckhardt, who 
softened the anguish of her most painful 
hours ; and-though she was treated with 
as much skill as disinterestedness by Dr: 
Stoffregen, there were nevertheless mo* 
ments in which the weight of her afflic- 
tion threatened her destruction. Our 
little ones would frequently play before 
the door; the passengers would stop 
and enquire to whom they belonged, and 
after having learnt this, would often 



2CO 

shed tears as they left them, and exclaim, 
" Poor children !" — This was so often 
repeated, that one day they ran in to 
their mother, and asked her why they 
were always called poor children ? Ano- 
ther time one of them, of her own ac- 
cord, asked her mother to let her be 
fettered and sent to her father, to bear 
him company. It may easily be ima- 
gined what effect these scenes had upon 
a mind so distracted and a constitution 
so shaken, as were those of my poor 
wife* 

As soon as fhe had, in some degree, 
recruited her health, she continued her 
journey, and passing through Dopart, 
arrived at our favourite FriedenthaL 
The most painful sensations were re- 
newed in her mind, the moment she 
beheld, from an adjacent hill, the spot 
where we had passed together so many 
years of uninterrupted felicity. She 



201 

had not resolution enough to take up 
her abode in our beloved habitation, in 
which every apartment, every piece of 
furniture, would have brought to her 
recollection her unfortunate husband ; 
she chose rather to alight at the house 
of M.-Koch, the minister of the parifh, 
and as worthy an ecclesiastic as- ever 
preached the Gospel of Truth* His 
wife, of French origin, having been Ma- 
dame deKotzebue's instructress, has the 
merit of being the first who enriched 
her mind with knowledge, and her heart 
with sentiment. She is not inferior to 
her husband in education, mind, or ta- 
lents. They became acquainted first in 
the paternal mansion of my wife, where 
he was tutor and she was governess. 
They soon became attached to each 
other, and at last were married. M. 
Koch is likewise my old college friend, 
so that our families have always conti- 



202 

nued upon the most friendly and affec- 
tionate terms. My dear good wife was 
received by this respectable couple, as a 
daughter would have been by her father 
and mother. They consoled her, they be- 
stowed upon her the most unremitting 
attentions, and the most cordial caresses, 

Officious people were not wanting, 
who advised this worthy man to with- 
draw his protection from my wife, to 
avoid danger to himself; to these coun- 
sellors, however, he replied with great 
firmness, that were he certain to be sent 
to Siberia for his conduct, hew r ould still 
persist in it. 

May 'heaven bless this excellent family, 
who in a distant corner of the world 
exercise their benevolence, without 
pomp or ostentation; and who unite 
the simplicity and integrity of rural man- 
ners with the culture and politeness 
of Courts! — May heaven, I say, bless 



2C3 

them! and should, sooner cr later, the 
caprice of fortune frown on any of their 
children or descendants, let these lines 
serve for me and my posterity, as a sa- 
cred and valid promissory note of hand 
at their service. I declare in the face of 
all Europe, that as long as my children 
shall continue to respect my memory, 
and value my blessing, every member 
of this worthy family shall find my 
house and my heart open to them, as 
well as the houses and the hearts of my 
descendants. 

Here, in the circle of her respectable 
friends, my wife at last received the 
letter which I had written to her from 
Stockmanshof, and which had under* 
gone many strange adventures before it 
came to her hands. The young man to 
whom I had entrusted it, with the other 
two, appears to have wanted resolution 
or address to forward them according 



204 

to their direction. M. de Bayer, or per- 
haps the cautious M. Prostenius, proba- 
bably sent them to the Governor of Ri- 
ga, who must have forwarded them to 
the Court Advocate of Petersburg. The 
letter to Count Cobenzel, had been in- 
stantly suppressed ; and such was then 
the gloomy state of the political hori- 
zon, that I consider the precaution as 
prudent and necessary. The Court Ad- 
vocate shewed these letters to the Empe- 
ror, who was angry at my having called 
Count de Pahlen his favourite, and 
that I had applied to him in that capaci- 
ty for his protection. It was one of the 
singularities of this Prince, not to suffer 
it. to be said that he had any favourite, 
nor allow any one to boast of having 
an influence over him. It may likewise 
be supposed that the Court Advocate, 
the declared enemy of the Count, did 
not fail, on the present occasion, to do 



205 

Kim all *he injury in his power, and to 
represent the matter to the Emperor in 
the most odious point of view. In 
short, the Emperor, though he saw 
Count Pahlen every day, caused my let- 
ter to be transmitted to him through the 
Court Advocate. He did not, however, 
speak a word to him on the subject, 
and looked cool on him for a long time. 
The Count has since given me to under- 
stand, that I had very nearly been the 
cause of his disgrace. 

As to the letter to Madame Kotzebue, 
although it would have been more deli- 
cate to have suppressed it, as it had been 
written in a moment of despair, the Em- 
peror gave orders that it should be for- 
warded according to its address, and de- 
livered on having a receipt for it. It was 
therefore sent to the Governor of Esto- 
nia, who^ in his turn, dispatched it to Ba- 



206 

ron de Rosen, the provincial Judge * of 
the circle of Wesenburg, who at laft deli- 
vered it to my wife, and took from her 
a receipt subscribed by her trembling 
hand. 

This fatal letter produced, as I had 
but too well foreseen, the most dread- 
ful effects. My wife, reduced to the 
laft extremity of grief, fell into labour 
and miscarried: her recovery was long 
doubtful, and more than once she was 
on the brink of the grave. Had it not 
been for the tender assiduity, the inex- 
pressible attentions of the Koch family, 
I, with six helpless orphans, should at 
this moment be deploring her loss ; and 
what Emperor, what empire, could in- 
demnify me for such a calamity? 



* The Judges and provincial Counfellors of Li- 
vonia and Estonia superintend the police of the 
country. 



so; 

She recovered. — As soon as she had 
gained a little strength, she accepted the 
invitation of my intimate friend Knor- 
ring, at Reval, and went thither to con- 
cert with her relations and friends, not 
on what she intended to do, for she had 
already resolved to follow me into Sibe- 
ria ; but how she should put that inten- 
tion into execution, and previously to 
arrange with them our pecuniary affairs. 

Many of our former friends at Reval 
behaved in a very equivocal manner on 
my wife's arrival among them. I pass 
over their names in silence, to do juftice 
to my real friends, De Knorring and 
his lady, Huek, and many others, who 
gave themselves up without the least 
scruple or fear, to the impulses of their 
own hearts. In vain did several timid- 
minded persons advise De Knorring to 
shut his doors against my unhappy wife; 
He remained firm; his friendship \va- 



208 

vered not, though he has since acknow- 
ledged to me, that he expected to be in* 
volved in some unpleasant dilemma, 
and even to be obliged to take a journey 
to Petersburg to clear up his conduct. 

My wife had now but one idea which 
engrossed her attention — her journey to 
Siberia. Whatever could be urged to 
dissuade her from it was of no avail; 
she was not to be moved; and even 
when she was given to hope that my 
exile would not be of long duration, 
and the step consequently useless, she 
replied with warmth, that if it only con- 
tributed to soften my afflictions for a 
few days, it would more than repay 
her trouble! Her chambermaid, Cathe- 
rine Tengmaun, (she deserves to have 
her name mentioned, it is an homage 
of gratitude) offered to accompany her, 
although she would have left behind a 
mother seventy years of age. " I have 



2o9 

partaken, " said she, " in your prospe- 
rity, and it is but just I should share 
your misfortunes. " My wife intended 
to bring our youngest girl with her, and 
to leave the other children at Reval. 
She had engaged to pay a considerable 
sum to a man whom she could trust, to 
escort her on the journey, and her de- 
parture was fixed for the ist of July. 

Such was the state of things on the 
i 7th of June, when my wife, having pas- 
sed the morning under great dejection 
of mind, aftor dinner retired to her 
chamber, and threw herself on the bed. 
M. de Knorring was enjoying the fresh 
air at the balconv, from whence he saw 
a Courier galloping along the avenue, 
who passed by, made enquiries, return- 
ed, held his dispatches over his head, 
and alighting from his horse, darted 
'into the hail* Mv friend flew to meet 

vol. ::. o 



21C 

him, half-hoping and half-afraid, and 
his family began to tremble for Knorring 
himself. 

4C Good news !" exclaimed the Cou- 
rier with a shout of joy, holding in his 
hand a letter from Count de Pahlcn to 
my w 7 ife. Knorring would have taken 
the letter, but the Courier begged to de- 
liver it into her own hands. The family, 
though wild with delight, had never- 
theless recourse to every necessary precau- 
tion. On the one hand, they were averse 
to disturb my wife ; on the other, they 
were impatient to communicate the hap- 
py tidings. Their friend, however, was 
not asleep ; she perceived the door to be 
a little a jar, and several faces peeping ia 
to see if she was awake, and upon every 
face she observed an impression of satis- 
faction, which they had not worn for 
some time past. " What is the matter r" 
said she, raising herself up a little. , 



21.1 



"Nothing at all," replied they ; " we 
only came to see if you were asleep." 

" No, no, you have some good news 
to. tell me; I see it on your counte- 



nances. 5 ' 



« 



Well,, we have : we bring you good 
news from your husband ; a Courier 
from-Count Pahlen waits for you below.'* 
She sprung to the door, and in a mo- 
ment was in the. hall. She seized the let- 
ter, tore it open, and with eyes half- 
blinded with tears, read. as follows : 



V Madam,, 
" His Majesty, the Emperor, conde- 
scends to permit you to come to Peters- 
burg, and to reside therewith your hus- 
band: I. hasten with the most sincere 
satisfaction to inform you of this special 
favour on the part of our most gracious 
Sovereign, that you may set off as soon 
as you think proper. An. express has 
been sent to your husband, in order, that 



fcvs 

lie may be at Petersburg on your ar- 
rival, or soon after you. I shall with plea- 
sure take upon myself to provide you 
with a suitable lodging* 

" Accept, Madam, the assurance of 
my sincere joy at this event, and the 
perfect esteem with which 1 have the ho- 
nour to be your devoted humble ser- 
vant, Be Pahlen." 

Petersburg * 15 Ju?ic 9 1 800. 

The accounts w r hich my friends gave 
me of the effect which this letter pro- 
duced on my wife, affected me extreme- 
ly. Her joy had the appearance of mad- 
ness : She, who had scarcely strength 
enough to move from one chair to ano- 
ther, leaped about the room like a fawn, 
and was unable to stand still. For a long 
"time she kept running here and there, 
looking for a thousand things that she 
thought she wanted, and laughed and 
wept in the same moment. She gave 



the Courier all the money which she had 
in her possession. She would instantly 
have prepared for the journey, wished 
to set out the next day, and declared 
that she should consider every one as 
her enemy who counteracted her inten- 
tions; 

Fortunately her physician. Doctor 
Bluhm, was not fearful of incurring her 
displeasure : he was able to make her 
feel that her high spirits were not symp- 
toms of strength, and she consented to 
wait a few days longer.. 

In the meanwhile a messenger from 
the Governor of Reval, who lived in. 
the country, arrived; The Court-advo- 
cate had communicated the same infor- 
mation to him, with instruc lions to fur- 
nish Madame de Kotzebue with every 
thing necessary for her journey, and to 
make a report of the amount. Me like- 
wise mentioned that the military Co 



ci4 

vernor of Petersburg had received orders 
to provide a suitable lodging for my 
wife and me. 

Madame de Kotzebue felt herself un- 
der the same embarrassment, relative to 
the Emperor's offer to bear the expence 
of the journey, which I had suffered some 
weeks -after at Tobolsk. Unwilling to 
ask much, at the same time fearful of 
incurring the imputation of arrogance, 
should she accept nothing, she con- 
sulted her friends, and confined herself 
to the mere travelling expences to Pe- 
tersburg, which were immediately paid 
her. 

The manner in which the greater 
number of the inhabitants of Reval 
acted on this occasion is entitled to my 
warmest gratitude. In half an hour the 
news had spread over the whole city. It 
was repeated in the streets : people were 
stopped in their carriages to be informed 



w 5 

of it, and they, in their turn, stopped 
every acquaintance they met to impart 
it to them. u Have you heard the 
news ?" cried one, when he saw a friend 
at a distance* " Yes, I have heard it," 
was the common reply. It was not my 
friends alone that exulted ; every heart 
partook in the general satisfaction of the 
day, and the good town of Reval proved 
itself to be peopled with benevolent be- 



K:£S. 



On the fourth day my wife was able 
to undertake her journey : she travelled 
the whole hundred leagues from Reval 
to Petersburg without stopping to sleep, 
in the hope of finding me there ; a hope 
..which, in fact, Count de Fahlen's letter 
had encouraged. The good wishes of 
the Count could alone have suggested 
such an idea, for the Courier who had 
been dispatched to Siberia, not having 
set off before the 15th of June, it was 



2lO 

impossible that I could arrive at Peters- 
burg in less than seven weeks from that 
time ; and even to effect this, it was ne- 
cessary to travel, as in fact I did, faster 
than the mail ; my wife therefore arrived 
long before me, and went to an hotel, 
as the lodging intended for us was not 
yet fitted up j not] was it indeed ever 
compleated, owing to an excess of deli- 
cacy on her part, which prevented her 
from taking any steps about it, 

I should not mention this circum- 
stance, if it had not furnished me with 
a new occasion of discovering the noble 
conduct of my friend Graumaun. Be- 
ing aware that the expences of an ho- 
tel, for a large family, were heavier than 
my wife, in her present situation, could 
well bear, he hired apartments in the 
most secret manner, fitted up the rooms 
in the best style, and one day begged 
Madame de Kotzebue to accompany him 



217 

to them. How great was her sbrprize* 
when on entering she found herself in an 
elegant and commodious set of well-fur- 
nished apartments ; a kitchen provided 
with every culinary utensil ; linen, chi- 
na, cupboards stored with sugar, tea y 
coffee, wax candles, &c. in great abun- 
dance ; even silver plate was not forgot- 
ten ; so that she felt herself suddenly 
transported into a new establishment, 
without being able to learn from the ge- 
nerous man, whose magic wand had 
created it, what sum he had consecrated 
to this act of friendship ! 

Such was the account I received from 
Madame de Kotzebue, and the hours 
gayly danced around me and the dear 
companion of my life, who had just been 
restored to my arms. The walls which 
inclosed us, those walls which had echoed 
to the 'plaints of so many unfortunate 
people, now resounded with expressions 



2\$ 

>ef the purest rapture, the tenderest love, 
and the most grateful friendship. 

Nothing indeed was wanting to ren- 
der this scene of happiness compleat, but 
the presence of my children. Their mo- 
ther hastened to fetch them ; they had 
waited for this moment with the most 
impetuous eagerness : they arrived ; J 
saw them get out of the carriage ; i 
iieard their little footsteps upon the 
staircase-; I felt them hang round my 
neck — A man must be a father to con- 
ceive what I felt. 

It was noon, and later than noon, 
without *our having perceived it. The 
^express had not returned from Gatschi- 
;na, and I had not noticed the delay, for 
.had I not in my little chamber, or, as 
it really was, my prison, all that my 
heart desired. 

An event, which took place towards 
4the evening, excited in us the tenderest 



-2* 9 

amotions, and even added to our joy >— 
The Russian merchant, the companion 
of my journey, had cherished hopes of 
obtaining, on his arrival at Moscow, 
some account of his wife and daughter ; 
with this design he had called on one of 
his relations there, and returned over- 
"whelmed with grief and despair. " I 
wafis so joyful," said he, with the most 
affecting simplicity, "but God has turn- 
ed my joy into sorrow ; my wife and 
my daughter are dead ! From that mo- 
ment he mentioned the subject no more, 
and during the rest of the journey he 
scarcely uttered a word. I often saw 
him weeping in his kibick, till the tears 
trickled -down his grey beard. On our 
arrival at Petersburg he lodged in the 
same room with me. When my wife 
came, he was seated in a corner of the 
room, lost in silent affliction, and wit- 
nessed our felicity without uttering a 



syllable, while the deepest sorrow was 
imprinted on his countenance. 

Towards evening his Courier, Sukin, 
suddenly entered the room ; " Iwan 
SeinenQwilsch" cried he, " your wife and 
daughter are alive, and here they are 1" 
The old man awoke as from a dream* 
and starting: from his* seat he staggered 
to the door, and his wife and child 
rushed into his arms. This was an affect- 
ing repetition of the scene we had our- 
selves just been acting; and what tended 
to increase the interest of the meeting,. 
was the lono; duration of their absence. 
He had been torn from his wife when 
she was in the prime of youth and beau- 
ty : he found her less blooming, but she 
was still in good health. His daughter, 
who was only eight years old when he 
left her, was now a. fine girl of sixteen.. 
He could scarcely believe his eyes, or 
giye credit to his own happiness : He 



221 

took the candle, from time to time, and 
examined her in every point of view : 
his features brightened up, and the tears 
stole apace down his cheeks. An inar- 
ticulate sound of joy and furprise w r as all 
he was able to utter. 

Thus passed away the day, and night 
now approaching, I ventured to ask M. 
Fuchs to allow me to go to my own 
lodgings, on the promise of returning 
the next morning. He had the good- 
ness to grant my request, and made 
himself responsible for this permission. 
With a heart overflowing: with delimit 
and gratitude, I now entered the abode 
which love and friendship had vied to- 
gether in preparing, and my faithful 
servants received me with transports of 

joy- 
Scarcely had I been an hour at home, 

when a note from M. Fuchs came to in- 
form me the order was arrived from 



Mr* 

Gatschina, and that I was at liberty :• E 
then retired to rest ; and it was now, 
for the first time for four months past* 
that I freely enjoyed that blessing. 

The next morning I waited on Count 
de Pahlen, agreeably to my duty : But 
duty alone did not lead me to his house,, 
he was intitledto my gratitude ;, for in 
the, midst of his innumerable avocations 
he had found time to announce my en- 
largement, not only to Madame de Kot- 
zebue, but likewise m the most oblig- 
ing terms to. my aged mother. The 
great crowd with which he was always 
surrounded,, prevented me from saying 
any thing beyond what the formality 
of custom prescribed, and, to which he 
replied likewise in the same style.. 

On the 13th of August I received.the 
copy of an ukase, by which the Emperor 
bestowed on me, free of service, the 
estate of Worrokull, situated in Livo- 



iiia, and belonging to the Crown. This 
estate, which contains four hundred 
souls, and brings me in four thousand 
roubles a year upon lease, together with 
a commodious mansion-house, and ad- 
vantages of various kinds, was a gift 
truly Imperial, and affords the most un- 
equivocal proof of my innocence* 

I could have wished, the sooner to 
forget the whole dream of my misfor- 
tunes, to have returned to Germany j 
but my friends advised me, for very 
good reasons, not to ask the Emperor's 
permission. I followed their counsel, 
as they knew the Monarch better than 
I, and contented myself with just hint- 
ing in my letter of thanks, that I was 
on the point of retiring into the coun- 
try, the better to enjoy his Majesty's gra- 
cious benefaction. 

My letter produced an effect which I 
bad not expected. On the very next 



2 $4 

morning I received the following note 
from M. Briskorn, the Emperor's se- 
cretary. 

* c On beginning to read your letter 
to his Imperial Majesty, I had the pics- 
sure to hear him order Hie to draw up 
an ukase which appoints you manager 
of the company of German comedians, 
with the title of Aulic Counsellor, toge- 
ther with a salary of twelve hundred 
roubles. When I came to the passage 
in which you speak of your design to 
retire into the country, his Majesty 
deigned to order me to propose your ac- 
ceptance of the above-mentioned place. 
I therefore acquit myself of this duty ; 
and, begging you to inform me, as 
soon as possible, whether it be your 
intention to accept the offer of our 
most gracious Monarch, I remain, Sir, 
with particular consideration, &c. &c. 

Briskorn." 



22 5 

u P. S. In quality of manager you will 
act under the immediate orders of Count 
Narisckin, grand marshal of the court." 

My embarrassment on the receipt of 
this letter was equal to my terror. I 
was again to undertake the manage- 
ment of a play-house — I, who at Vienna-, 
notwithstanding the singular kindness 
of Baron Braun, had refused longer to 
continue in so thankless an employment, 
and who had so often vowed to my 
wife, and to myself, to tread no more 
a path of thorns, deceitfully strewed 
with roses — I, who knew by Sorrowful 
experience, that the best performers 
are often the most immoral and untrace- 
able of men ; that a single word of dis- 
approbation renders the actor to whom 
we venture to whisper it our most im- 
placable enemy, though he had asked 
our judgment with apparent frankness 
and modesty — I, who knew that the 

vol. II. p 



226 

greater part of dramatic performers, 
even anions the most distinguished, love 
not the art but the artiJ; that they are 
delighted with a piece composed of sce- 
nic caricatures and grotesque figures, 
provided their own dear persons appear 
with eclat therein — but where is my pain- 
ful experience of twenty years now carry- 
ing me ? I intreat the reader's pardon 
for this digression, and beg he will just 
allow r me to parody the words of Shake- 
spear; 



<c Vanity, thy name's a playc 



r I 



With such a disposition, together 
with sad experience collected from so 
many theatres, I was now to put myself 
at the head of a Company which one 
Mire had collected from several strolling 
parties, fcnd improved by the addition 
of a few good actors brought from Ger- 
man v; but which, after all, was far 



**1 



from being complete. Hitherto a So- 
ciety of Merchants had supported the 
Company by subscription , but it was 
now in a very embarrassed situation, 
and upon the point of breaking up. 
The Emperor, on the representation of 
Count de Pahlen, determined to take 
them into his own service; unfortu- 
nately the circumstance of my return 
coincided with the plan, and his Majes- 
ty naturally enough wished to charge 
me with the management of it. Doubt- 
there was much goodness on his 

o 

part, and a wish to oblige me in this 
business, which further induced me not 
to refuse the favour which he conceived 
he was offering me. 

I endeavoured, however, in my an- 
swer, with all the art I was master of, 
to extricate myself from this unplea- 
sant affair; and displayed, in colours 
equally strong, my boundless gratitude. 



228 

and invincible aversion to such an of- 
fice. But all was in vain; instead of 
an answer came the copy of three 
ukases; the Jlrst of which, addressed 
to the Grand-Marshal of the Court, 
appointed rne manager of the German 
Theatre; the second named me Aulic 
Counsellor; and the third secured my 
salary on the Emperor's privy purse. 
To this salary, which otherwise might 
appear but small, was added eighteen 
hundred roubles, charged on the trea- 
sury of the theatre, for the expence of 
a carriage; and I was besides allowed 
fire and candles, with a large and com- 
modious lodging. As to the pecuniary 
part of the business, the Emperor had 
done all, and more than I could have 
hoped from him; and, in that respect, 
my gratitude was extreme. I had, in- 
cluding the produce of my estate, an 
annual income of at least nine thou- 



229 

sand roubles, besides the receipts of the 
second representation of my new pieces, 
which added a few thousand roubles more 
to my revenue.* But what occasion had 
I for this additional fortune? Can re- 
pose, tranquillity, or health, be pur- 
chased with gold? Did I not possess 
at Weimar, at Jena, a dwelling le 
splendid indeed, bur more chea:fv 
an income less considerable, but yet suf- 
ficient for every purpose of happiness? 
Though I lived there under a Prince 
less powerful, yet did I not live free 
from every apprehension of danger? In 
fine, (and what alone is worth all the 
rest) had I not a good and tender mo- 
ther there? a mother to whom I owed 



* I lately read in the Gazette fir die ekgante 
Welt) that I had sixteen benefit nights durin ■ my 
residence at Petersburg. The truth is that i bad 
no more than six, which produced me afcotit three 
thousand roubles. 



230 

the culture of my mind; and who was 
waiting for my return With the most 
ardent impatience, and whom it was 
my duty to aid to bear the encreasin<r 
burden of ao*e? 

At the same time, I received from 
the Secret Inquisition, all the papers 
which had been taken from me on the 
frontiers: not a sheet was wanting; and 
I shall here mention a very remarkable 
circumstance attending them. 

From the first moment of my arrest 
to the end of my exile, I had thought 
there was not a passage to be found 
among all my papers, that could in 
any respect authorize the Government 
to act as it had done towards me, 
yet there was one single llne^ which, had 
it come to the knowledge of the Empe- 
ror, would have perhaps aggravated my 
captivity, and certainly prolonged it. 
This line was in the journal I had kept 



23t 

at Vienna. I had been on my arrival, 
and before I was known there, suspect- 
ed of Jacobinism. Soon after my new 
vocation, I mentioned my fears on this 
head to Baron de Braun. " Make your* 
self easv " said he, " if you are con- 
scious of your innocence; the Emperor 
is just, and condemns no one without 
the most strict and impartial examina- 
tion." On inserting these words, I ad- 
ded the following reflection: — " I am 
now at ease, I have gained much : the 

£ p seldom thinks it %vorth his 

while to examine affairs" 

This unfortunate remark, these words 
which in truth were harsh and offensiw, 
had intirely escaped my memory; and 
how great was my tremor, when on 
turning over my papers they • caught 
my eye! but, at the same time, how 
great w r as my joy, and w T hat were the 
emotions I felt, on observing that some 



232 

generous hand had blotted the line with 
so much care, that it was not without 
great difficulty I could at first gue&s at 
the tenor of it! Here then is a proof 
that under all the terror which the Se- 
cret Inquisition in general created, the 
members of whom it was composed 
merely obeyed the severe orders enjoined 
them ; and whenever they had an op- 
portunity, yielded to the better feelings 
of their own hearts. This eulogy, in 
particular, is justly due to M. Makaroff, 
Counsellor of State, whose tears have 
often mingled with those of the unfor- 
tunate j and whose heart has often bled 
when he has been obliged to deliver them 
up into the hands of their executioners* 
I know not whether it was this gentle- 
man, or M. Fuchs, or a third person, 
that was charged with the examination 
of my papers; having in vain endeavour- 
ed to obtain any information respect- 



2 33 

ing it, although I have done every thing 
in my power to discover it. I muft 
therefore satisfy myself with declaring 
my gratitude to my unknown benefac- 
tor in the face of the world, and before 
the throne of heaven. How fortunate 
to have fallen into such hands! This sin- 
gle line might have ruined me for ever ! 

I likewise observed several trifling 
passages among my papers w T hich had 
been underlined with a pencil, but none 
of them could have done me any injury; 
they consisted only in satirical remarks, 
anecdotes, incidents I wished to remem- 
ber; and to which I had added some re- 
flections. 

My Gustavus Vasa was returned me 
in a cover, with orders not to make 
any use of it. A single passage had 
condemned this unfortunate piece. 

f * Whene'er a Monarch's voice commands a crime, 
A thousand arms are rais'd to strike the blow." 



^34 

I flatter myself that the reader will 
be anxious to learn towhat circumstance 
I am indebted for my liberty. He al- 
ready knows it could not have been in 
consequence of the memorial transmit- 
ted from Tobolsk, as the Courier who 
brought the ukase which enlarged me, 
met the bearer of my memorial near 
Casan. I shall therefore relate all the in- 
formation which I have been able to 
collect on that subject. 

I was assured, that the inhuman 
Court Advocate suffered my papers to 
lie in a corner of his office for the space 
of a whole month, without paying the 
least regard to the situation of the un- 
happy man who, in consequence of such 
neglect, was pining in exile. The Em- 
peror himself at length enquired into 
the contents of my papers, and the 
proofs which they afforded of my inno- 
cence, was doubtless one -cause of his 



2 35 

Majesty's change of disposition towards 
me ; yet I doubt whether my innocence 
-alone would have effected mv deliver- 
ance: for in general it is much easier 
for the rulers of the earth to persevere 
in the injustice they have once commit- 
ted, than to acknowledge and repair it* 
The Emperor Paul, and some other So- 
vereigns, are however honourable ex- 
ceptions from this charge. My good 
fortune gave birth to another circum- 
stance, which could never have happen- 
ed more a propos. 

I have already spoken of a little piece, 
intitled The Emperor's Head Coachman? 
which I had written with a kind of en- 
thusiasm, some years ago, to celebrate 
a generous action of Paul I. without 
dreaming it would ever have any influ- 
ence on my own welfare. This piece 
had just been translated into the Russian 
language, by a young man of the name 



2 3 6 

of Krasnobohhi ; who, being desirous, of 
dedicating it to thlt Emperor himself, 
had applied to several persons of conse- 
quence, who dissuaded him from his in- 
tention, or at all events advised the 
omission of the name of Kotzebue in the 
titie-maee, since that odious name was 
sufficient to ruin, every thing. The Rus- 
sian and German playhouses had long 
since discontinued the insertion of my 
name in the bills of such of my pieces 
as were represented. 
„ The honest vouth was above having 
recourse to plagiary. " The piece is 
his/' said he, " I am but his translator : 
I will not deck myself in borrowed 
plumes ; and I shall let his name remain 
at the head of the work." Finding, 
however, insurmountable difficulties in 
having his translation presented in this 
form to the Emperor, he determined to 
transmit it by the post. 



' -c7 

The reception of this piece made a 
singular impression on the mind of the 
monarch : he perused it, and it afFected 
and pleased him. He ordered a valu- 
able ring to be given to the translator, 
and at the same time forbad the print- 
ing of the manuscript. Some hours after 
this, he asked for it again, re-perused 
it, declared that he would allow it to be 
printed, on condition of certain passages 
being omitted ; and among others, which 
is hardly credible, the following one : My 
Emperor saluted me : he salutes ail worthy 
people. In the course or the day he 
asked for the piece a third time, read it 
over, and then allowed it to be printed 
without any alterations at all. , At the 
same time he declared : he had done me 
wrong ; that he owed me reparation^ and 
that he thought it incumbent on him to make 
me a present equal to that conferred on his 



* 3 3 

father's coachman.* That very moment 
lie dispatched the Courier to Siberia. 

Soon after this my memorial arrived : 
the Emperor, notwithstanding its length, 
read it twice over from beginning to end, 
and being affected at its contents, he 
gave instant orders to the Governor of 
Estonia to look out fpr some valuable 
estate belonging to the Crown, and si- 
tuated in the neighbourhood of Fried- 
enthal. He was not satisfied with mere- 
ly making me the present, he would also 
confer it in a manner likely to prove the 
most agreeable to me ; and the order 
did as much credit to his head as to his 
heart. In all the neighbourhood of 
Friedenthal there was not another 
estate of so much value as that intended 
for me. 

Such is the substance of all the infor* 

f. Twenty-thousand roubles. 






■*39 

luation I have been able to procure rela- 
tive to my restoration to liberty. Of 
my arrest and exile I am far from being 
even so well informed, and I doubt whe- 
ther the hand of time itself will be able 
to withdraw the veil of mystery which 
hangs over that event. 

Notwithstanding all these acts of be- 
nevolence on the part of the Monarch, 
terror had laid such fast hold on my 
mind, that I could never see a Senate 
Courier or Chasseur pass by me, with- 
out experiencing the most violent tre- 
pidation ; nor did I ever set out for 
Gatschina, without providing myself 
with a considerable sum of money, and 
holding myself in readiness for a second 
journey to Siberia. 

On the 9th of October I received, for 
the first time, an order to repair to 
Gatschina. It was scarcely day-break 
when. I set off: the express had been 



sent in the night, and I trembled as I 
took leave of my wife. From the haste 
with which this order was communi- 
cated, it was natural to imagine that 
something of the utmost importance 
had given birth to it. On my arri- 
val, I was simply informed of the Em- 
peror's orders, that I must be very par- 
ticular in the choice of my dramatic 
subjects, and in the omission of all sus- 
picious passages. lie had, it seems, the 
day before, talked of the necessity of 
establishing a Censorship, and had in- 
tended me to fill that office. It was easy 
to foresee, that sooner or later this 
task would prove a shoal upon which 
my frail bark, so recently saved from 
destruction, would finally be w r recked. 
I urged the propriety of appointing 
fome other person to that office, alledg- 
ing that an author could not be the im- 
partial censor of his own works ; that 



241 

self-love would render him blind, and 
that, without knowing it, he would 
often act contrary to the wiil of his 
Sovereign. In short, I endeavoured 
strenuously to evade this intention of 
the Emperor, and at length I succeeded ; 
my scruples were even applauded by the 
Monarch, and he was pleased to appoint 
Aulic Counsellor Adelung to that office, 
a learned man, whose " Monuments 
of German Poetry," collected with both 
care and diligence, have rendered him 
celebrated and esteemed in Germany. 

It is difficult to form an idea of the 
scrupulousness which M. Adelung and 
myself were obliged to exert in the exe- 
cution of this painful office ; it will be 
sufficient to name a few instances, to 
shew how often I must have been over- 
whelmed with disgust, and what aver- 
sion I must have entertained for the vo- 
cation which had been imposed upon me* 



VOL. II. Q 



242 



The word Republic was not allowed 
to be pronounced in my play of Octavia ; 
nor did Antony dare to say, 



" Die, like a Roman, fr 



ee 



> > 



In the Epigram it was necessary to 
change the word Emperor of Japan into 
Master of that island. It was likewise 
necessary to strike out the dangerous as- 
sertions, that Caviar came from Russia, 
and that Russia was a distant country.— 
The Counsellor of the Chamber was- not 
allowxd to think himself a good patriot, 
in having refused to marry a foreigner ; 
neither was it allowed to be said, that a 
valet could be an insolent fellow. "We 
struck out the passage which observes, 
that his Highness is neither blind ' ?ivr sick ; 
the Princess was not permitted to have 
a greyhound, nor the Counsellor to 
tickle the dog behind its ears ; neither 
were the pages allowed to muffle up the 
Counsellor. 



243 
• In The Two Klingsbergs, the Russian 
Prince, of whom Madame Wanschel 
speaks cursorily, was transformed into 
a great foreign nobleman ; and instead of 
a Polish cap, this same Madame Wan- 
schel was made to wear an Hungarian 
one. The word fortress was changed to 
prison ; courtier was changed to flatterer, 
(which by the by is not very flatter- 
ing to courtiers) and instead of my uncle 
the minister, was inserted my all-power. 
ful^ uncle. The exclamation of young 
Klingsberg, after having seen his aunt 
and Amelia,—,-/ last they will be prin- 
cesses' appeared offensive, and was there- 
fore struck out. 

Intht-AbbedePEpee, citizens were not 
allowed to live at Toulouse. Franval 
durst not say, woe to my native country ; 
but woe to my country, because an ukase 
had positively forbidden the Russians to 
have a native country. The Abbe de 



*44 

PEpee, who,' as it is known, arrives 
from Paris, was not allowed to come 
from thence ; nor durst he make any 
mention of the Lyceum in that city, nor 
of France. 

The physical knowledge of Buff on ; the 
science of cT Alembert ; the sensibility of 
Roujfeau ; the wit of Voltaire, were all 
most unmercifully effaced by a single 
stroke of the pen. 

In the piece intitled The Secretary, the 
part of the conjuror was struck out. 

These instances, which I have quoted 
at random, in order to avoid entering 
too much into detail, are sufficient to 
give an idea of the extreme severity 
which the Censor, in spite of himself, 
was obliged to exert in the execution 
of his office. Ho\tf often have I been 
amused formerly at the stupidity of the 
Censor at Riga, who, for instance, in 
my play intitled TheliecGnciliation^cS^ccd 



245 

the following words, which are put into 
the mouth of the shoemaker ; / will go 
to Russia, where, they say, it is colder than 
it is here ; (he felt himself consuming 
with the flames of hopeless love) and 
substituted these in their stead ; / will 
go to Russia, where -none but good people are 
to be found. I little thought in those 
times, that one day fear would do the 
same thing at Petersburg which stupi- 
dity, in the person of the conceited Mr. 
Tumanski, had done at Riga. 

If however the Emperor had cast his 
eyes upon many of the passages which 
were changed, and had asked the cause 
of such alterations, he would, I must 
confess, have thrown us into no small 
embarrassment. I shall mention two 
passages for instance, from Octavia : It 
is there said, 

" And to a cook, who chancM to bit his taste, 



" He'd give a house he could not call his own, 



1 1 



246 

" What !" the Emperor might have 
said, " have I done any thing of the 
kind ? and if I have not, why do yoti 
consider the passage as offensive ?" 

Again, 

•*' And Charmion knows, and Marion knows it too, 
-* That Antony doth many a master own." 

" What !" might the Emperor have 
said, " do you think I am governed by 
chambermaids and favourites? and if 
you do not think so, why have you 
struck out this historical trait ?" 

From these examples, and a thousand 
more that might be produced, it may 
be seen how dangerous is the business 
of a Censor to the man who exercises 
it, and how embarrassing to the author 
upon whom it is exercised. M. Ade- 
lung, with the best disposition in the 
world, could not render this task less 
disgusting either to me or -to himself. 



247 

Besides this constraint, a thousand 
other unpleasant circumstances contri- 
buted to disgust me with my situation, 
I do not here speak of the eternal quar- 
rels of the performers ; their reluctance, 
their boundless self-love ; they are every 
where the same. A more powerful ob- 
stacle, which impeded the advancement 
of the German theatre, was the jealousy 
of the French company, or rather the jea- 
lousy of Madame Chevalier, who was at 
their head, or, in other words, who was 
the soul of them. Not that this lady was 
apprehensive that the German drama 
would eclipse the talents of the French 
comedians ; she was too well aware of 
the mediocrity of our company, and 
the predeliction of Russians for every 
thing that is Gallic, to be at all alarmed 
with such idle fears ; but she was deter- 
mined to allow no one besides herself to 
amuse the Emperor. She had aire 



248 

effected the annihilation of the Italian 
and Russian comedians of the theatres 
of Gatschina and the Hermitage, and 
she rarely condescended to allow the 
French tragic Muse to make her appear- 
ance in the. person of Madame de Val- 
ville. It was indeed possible that the 
German comedians, merely from novel- 
ty, might excite the attention and gain 
the approbation of the Monarch, in 
which case Madame Chevalier would 
have appeared less frequently on the stage 
before him ; a circumstance of which 
she not at all approving, determined to 
prevent. 

Four times the Emperor had com- 
manded a German play; four times I 
was ordered to hold myself in readi- 
ness ; and four times Madame Cheva- 
lier found means to prevent its repre* 
sentation. f 

Being pretty well acquaintQd with the 



249 

Emperor's taste, and having been ex- 
pressly commanded by his Majesty to 
bring forward one of my own pieces, I 
had chosen The Reconciliation for the first 
night, and The Bachelors of Iffland for 
the second. It is necessary that the 



play which the Emperor honours with 
his presence should be short, and not 
take up more time than an hour and a 
half; or, at most, an hour and three 
quarters in the representation. I had 
therefore taken upon myself the dis- 
agreeable task of curtailing these two 
pieces ; but I had been labouring in vain. 
Madame Chevalier was able to prove, 
on this occasion, that the race of pretty 
scornful Sultanas (mentioned by Mar- 
montel) was not extinct. 

What could I do? I could have ad- 
dressed the Emperor in person, and ob- 
tained an order that would have render- 
ed all contradiction vain ; I was, how- 



*5° 

ever, too well acquainted with the Court, 
and was therefore determined to submit 
with a good grace to that which I could 
not remedy. 

In all other respects, in every personal 
consideration, Madame Chevalier con- 
ducted herself perfectly well towards 
me ; desirous, perhaps, of indemnifying 
me by this method for the troubles she 
had brought upon the company, and 
their manager. I was indulged with the 
special and uncommon favour of hav- 
ing free aceess to her house and table. 
She did me the honour too to play the 
part of Gurli in my Indians in England, 
which a certain Marquis de Castelnau, 
had the barbarous goodness to meta- 
morphose into a comic opera; and into 
which the able Sarti, Master of the Cha- 
pel, infused a little life and colour, by 
his excellent composition of the music. 
She carried the confidence she had in 



25 1 

my talents so far, as to request me to 
write a French comic opera according 
to my own fancy, and circumstances 
obliged me to set seriously about the 
task. 

All this politeness, which, at best, 
could Only affect me individually, did 
not render my public situation the more 
agreeable ; and I was firmly determined 
to solicit my discharge on the first fa- 
vourable opportunity. 

In justification of this resolution , I must 
describe with a strong, but true pen- 
cil, my own situation and the state of 
my mind. Alas! I shared in common 
with almost every inhabitant of Peters- 
burg the alarms and disquietudes of the 
times. A set of wicked men, having 
abused the confidence of a Monarch, 
whose heart was prone to gentleness and 
benevolence, were always talking to him 
of phantoms which had no existence. 



252 

and the existence of which they them* 
selves did not believe ; and at length in- 
troduced, and established the system of 
terror. Every night I went to bed full of 
the most gloomy apprehensions. I started 
from my rest in the wildest surprise at 
the least noise, or whenever a carriage 
stopped in the street. My first care 
every morning was to anticipate all the 
possible disasters of the day, with a 
view of avoiding them. When I went 
out my eyes were constantly looking for 
the Emperor, to be able to alight from 
my carriage in due time. I watched with 
ceaseless attention over the whole econo- 
my of my dress, the choice of the colours, 
the cut and fashion of the garment. I 
found myself under the necessity of 
paying my court to women of doubtful 
reputation, and men of shallow under* 
standing. I had the insolence of an 
ignorant ballet-master (the husband of 



*S3 

Madame Chevalier) to combat with,— 
On the" representation of every new 
piece I tremblingly expected that the 
Police, ever on the watch, or the Secret 
Inquisition, would discover some pas- 
sage to be either specious or offensive. 
'Every time my wife took an airing with 
the children, and staid a few moments 
later than usual, I was fearful of hear- 
ing that she had not got out of the car- 
riage quickly enough on meeting the 
Emperor, and had been dragged to the 
common prison, as had lately happened 
to the wife of Demuth the innkeeper. 
I could rarely disburden my heart of its 
vexations to a friend; for, as the pro- 
verb says, u walls had ears, and one 
brother could not trust another/' Nor 
could I fill up these disastrous hours with 
reading, for every book was prohibited. 
I was even obliged to forego the use of 
the pen; for I could not venture to 



^54 

commit my thoughts to paper which 
might be seized and taken from me per- 
haps the next hour. Every time my busi- 
ness obliged me to walk near the palace I 
risked injuring my health; because at 
every season of the year, and in all kinds 
of weather, a man was compelled to 
keep his head uncovered on approach- 
ing or leaving that muss of stones. — 
The most harmless walk became a tor- 
ment, for one was almost sure to meet 
some unhappy wretch on his way to 
prison, and often to the knout. 

I call the whole town of Petersburg to 
witness if the colourings of this picture 
are too dark ! — O if the monarch had 
known all this ! what redress might not 
have been expected, for certainly he had 
the good of his subjects at heart ! 

How great was my terror, when in the 
very midst of these continual alarms, 
on the 1 6th day of December, at eight 



*55 

o'clock in the morning, Count Palilen 
-sent me an order to hasten to him im- 
mediately. Although he had chosen a 
young man of easy and polite manners, 
and with whom I was acquainted, for 
the messenger; and although lie had 
been expressly enjoined to assure me I 
had nothing to fear, and ought not 
therefore to be alarmed at the summons, 
the mere sight of him drove back the 
blood to my heart; and my wife was 
so much terrified on the occasion that 
she became serioufiy indisposed. 

On my arrival, Count de Pahlen told 
me that the Emperor had determined 
to send a challenge to ail the Sovereigns 
of Europe and their Ministers ; and that 
his Majesty had made choice of me to 
drawup the form of the challenge, which 
was to be inserted in the newspapers. 
He added, that Baron Thugut in parti- 
cular must be mentioned with ridicule; 



256 

arid that Generals de Kutuscoff and de 
Pahlen were to be named as seconds to 
his Majesty. The article of seconds, it 
•may be observed, had been communi- 
cated but half an hour before in a note 
written with a pencil, and which still 
lay on the Count's table. This singular 
challenge was to be ready in an hour, 
and I was ordered to present it in per- 
son to the Emperor. 

I obeyed ; and in less than an hour re- 
turned with the challenge which I had 
drawn up. The Count, who knew the 
Emperor's intentions better than myself, 
did not think it satirical enough. He 
made me sit down at his desk, and I 
•composed a second, which pleased him 
better. We both went to the palace ; 
and I was now, for the first time in my 
life, to be presented to a man, who, on 
account of his severity and beneficence, 
the terror and the joy which he had 



*$7 

caused me, and the aversion and grati- 
tude with which by turns he had in- 
spired -me, was become a most important 
personage in my eyes. I had not de- 
sired this honour, and had much doubt- 
ed of ever receiving it; for the sight of 
me could not fail to excite sentiments 
of regret and self-reproach in his Impe- 
rial Majesty. 

We waited a long time in the anti- 
chamber. The Emperor was gone out 
on horseback; he returned late; the 
Count went in to him with my paper, 
and staid some time; at length he re- 
turned much out of humour, and spoke 
these words to me as he passed by:— 
" Come to me at two o'clock; the chal- 
lenge is not yet strong enough." 

I went home, fully persuaded that it 
was not in this manner I was likely to 
gain the good graces of the Sovereign ; 
and scarcely had I been half an hour in 

vol, II. & 



*58 

■the house, when a running footman of 
the Count's came to me quite out of 
breath, to inform me I must repair that 
instant to the Emperor. — I obeyed. 

The moment I entered the cabinet, in 
which were only himself and Count de 
f allien, he rose from his seat, and walk- 
ing two or three paces towards me, said 
in a manner peculiarly graceful and with 
his body inclined; — " M. de Kotzebue 
I must in the first place be reconciled to 
you/' 

I was much struck at a reception I 
had such little reason to expect. Princes 
carry in their hand a magic wand cal- 
led clemency, which renders them all- 
powerful : — every resentment was ba- 
nished from my breast the moment 
the Emperor pronounced these words. 
Agreeably to etiquette, I was going to 
kneel and kiss his hand; he lifted me 
up however in the kindest manner, kfe~ 



sed me on the forehead, and in very 
^ood German said: 

" You know the world too well to 
•be a stranger to the political events of 
the day, and you must know likewise 
in what manner I have figured in them* 
I have often acted like a fool,*" added 
he with a laugh, " and it is but just 1 
should be punished; with this view there- 
fore I have imposed a chastisement on 
myself I wish," continued he, holding 
a paper in his hand, " that this should 
be inserted in the Hamburgh; Gazette, as 
well as in some other public prints." 

He then took me under the arm, in 
a confidential manner, and leading me 
to the window, read the paper to me, 
which was written with his own hand 
in French ;f it was as follows : 

* His own expression. 

f The following is the original French, pointed* 

exactly as his Majesty wrote it : 

■ On 



i6o 



u 



We hear from Petersburg, that the 
Emperor of Russia, finding that the 
powers of Europe cannot agree among 
themselves, and being desirous to put 
an end to a war which has desolated it 
for eleven years past, intends to point 
out a spot, to which he will invite 
all the other Sovereigns to repair and 
fight in- single combat ; bringing with 

" On apprend de Petersbourg, que TEmpereur 
de Russie voyant que les puissances de l'Europe 
ne pouvoit s'accorder entr* elle, et voulant mettre 
£n a une guerre qui ladesoloit depuis onze ans, vou- 
loit proposer un lieu ou il inviteroit tous les autres 
Souverains de se rendre et y combat tre en champ 
clos, ayant avec^ux pour ecuyer juge de Camp et 
Heros d'armes leurs ministres les plus -eclaires et 
ks generaux les plus habiles tels que MM. Thugot, 
Pitt, Bernstorff, lui meme se proposant de prendre 
avec lui les generaux C. de Pahlen et Kutosof ; on 
ne sQait si on doit y ajouter fois, toute fois la chose 
Be paroit pas destituee de fondement, en portant 
J'empreJnte de ce dont il a souvent ete taxe." 



i6i 

them, as seconds and 'squires, their most 
enlightened ministers, and their most 
able generals, such as Mefirs. Thugut, 
Pitt, Bernstorff, &c. and that the Empe- 
ror himself proposes being attended by 
generals Count de Pahlen and Kutosof : 
We know not if this report be worthy 
of credit j however, the thing appear^ 
not to be destitute of some foundation, 
and bears strong marks of "what he has 
been often taxed with." 

At the last period he laughed m 
heartily ; and, courtier-like, I laughed 
too. 

, " What do you laugh at?" said he, 
twice in one breath, and very rapidly, 
still continuing to laustfi himself. 

" That your Majesty is so well-in- 
formed of things." 

" Here," resumed he, putting the 
paper into my hands, " translate this 

ft 



a6i 



into German ; keep the original, and 
bring me a copy." 

I took my leave, and set about my 
task. The last word, taxed with, embar- 
rassed me much. Had I chosen the Ger- 
man word, which signifies accused, the 
expression, I thought, might appear too 
strong, and give the Emperor offence. 
After mature reflection I went indirectly 
to work, and T <vrote, what he has been 
oft C7i judged, capable of. 

At two o'clock I returned to the cas- 
tle. Count Kutaissow announced me ? 
I was immediately introduced, and I 
found the Emperor alone. 

" Sit down," said he, in a very af- 
fable manner : not obeying him at first, 
from motives of mere respect, he added, 
in a severer tone, " Sit down, I say."— 
I took a chair, and sat opposite to him 
at his table. 

He took the original French and said,, 

« 






263 

? Read your translation to me:"* I 
read slowly, and eyed him occasionally 
over the paper as I proceeded. He 
laughed when 1 came to the words, single 
combat, and he gave a nod of approba- 
tion, from time to time, till I came to 
the last word. 

Judged capable of/ 99 — resumed he, 

no, that is not the word ; you must 
say taxed withy I took the liberty of 
observing to him, that the word tax, in 
German, signified to estimate the value 
of goods, and not of an action. " That 
is very well," replied he, " but judged 
capable, does not express the French 
word taxc" 

I then ventured to ask in alow voice, 
" if I might be allowed to employ the 
word accused" 

* It appeared word for word in No. 9. of the 
Hamburgh Gazelle of the 1 6th of January, i8qi 5 
dated from Petersburg, the 30th Dec. 18co. 



264 

" Very well, that is the word ; —ac- 
cused, accused :" — -he repeated it three 
or four times, and I changed the expres- 
sion agreeably to his order. He thanked 
me very cordially for my trouble, and 
dismissed me, equally touched and de- 
lighted with the manner in w r hich he 
had received me. All who have nearly 
approached him will bear witness, that 
he knew how to be extremely engaging, 
and that in such moments he was quite 
irresistible. 

I did not feel it incumbent on me to 
omit the smallest circumstance relative 
to a fact which has made so much noise 
in the world. The challenge appeared 
two days after in the Court Gazette, to 
the great astonishment of the whole 
town. The President of the Academy 
of Sciences, who had received the ma- 
nuscript in order to have it inserted, 
could not believe his own eyes* He 



26$ 

went in person to Count de Pahlen, to 
be assured there was no foul play in the 
business. At Moscow, the Gazette in 
which it appeared was stopped by or- 
der of the Police, as it could not be 
imagined there, that the Monarch wish- 
ed to make the article public. The same 
thing took place at Riga. 

The Emperor, on his part, could hard- 
ly wait till the paragraph was printed ; 
and such was his impatience, that he 
made enquiries about it several times ia 
the interval. 

The next day he made me a present 
of a snuff-box set with brilliants, of the 
value of about two thousand roubles.* I 
do not believe that a translation of twen- 
ty lines was ever better paid for. 

* The editor of the Gazette /#> die elegante Welt, 
asserted it was worth four thousand. He was mis- 
taken. 



266 

The Emperor soon after told the Em* 
press, that he had become acquainted 
with me. " He is now/' said he, " one 
of my best subjects/ ' I have this anec- 
dote from one who was present ; but I 
am ignorant why his Majesty thought 
me a better subject then, than I was be- 
fore my journey to Siberia. 

There are persons who blamed me for 
not availing myself of these opportuni- 
ties of soliciting new favours. It is true 
his Imperial Majesty seemed to expect 
this, and his kind and affable deport- 
ment appeared net a little to encourage 
such views ; but I always felt an under 
scribable reluctance on these occasions ; 
and whatever I might have lost by this 
diffidence will never cost me a single 
regret. 

On the other hand, I had gained the 
inestimable blessings of tranquility, to 
which my heart had been so long a stran* 



a6j 

ger; for having now spoken with the Em- 
peror, and seen and discovered the no- 
bleness and benevolence of his disposi- 
tion, the greater part of my alarms sub* 
sided. I now admired him more than 
I had hitherto feared him, being per- 
suaded, as I still am, that a decent free- 
dom, a frank and open manner, with- 
out meanness, without servility, was, of 
all kinds of behaviour, the most agree- 
able to him* All that was necessary, 
was to give way to his little singulari- 
ties, which w r as far from being a diffi- 
cult task ; for admitting there was no- 
greatness on his part in exacting the ri- 
gorous observance of certain trifles, it 
must likewise be allowed, there was less 
in submitting with repugnance to those 
formalities, as they did not absolutely 
disturb the happiness of society. 

From this moment I received a thou* 
sand little marks of good-will at the 



268 

hands of his Majesty. I never met him* 
in the street but he stopped to con- 
verse with me. His conduct towards 
rne never changed to the day of his 
death; he continued to shew himself to 
be benevolent, affable, and noble. Why 
should I be ashamed to confess that my 
eyes are bathed in tears, while gratitude 
strews these flowers upon his grave ? 

In the month of January he ordered 
Misanthropy and Repentance to be acted 
by the French Company at the Hermit- 
age. It is well known that except the 
officers o£ the guards, none but the four 
first classes have access to the interior cir- 
cle of the court. The Emperor however 
condescended to make an exception in 
favour of the author of the piece, and 
invited me to the representation; and 
from that moment I was admitted every 
time a play was acted at the Hermitage. 

It w r ill readily be believed that my 



269 

heart beat violently at the representa- 
tion of Misanthropy and Repentance. To 
the perfect acting of Madame de Vai- 
ville, I am principally indebted for the 
visible emotion which the piece excited 
in the Emperor. Aufresne, a man turn- 
ed of seventy, whose talents have been 
known and applauded in Germany, act- 
ed the part of the old man. His Ma- 
jesty sat just over the orchestra, and I 
observed, that during the whole repre- 
sentation he had a centinel on duty be- 
hind his chair, dressed in the Maltese 
regimentals. 

About this time the Emperor wished 
to have The Creation of Haydn per- 
formed in French, and asked me to 
translate it into that language. To have 
any idea of this work, a man must be 
thoroughly acquainted with the difficulty 
of adapting words to music already com- 
posed, What rendered this task still 



:-more irksome, was the extreme exact 
hess, not to say tedious minuteness of 
good oldSarti; who being employed to 
accommodate my words with the music, 
was eternally talking to me of long and 
s-hort syllables ; while it is w r ell known 
that the French , tongue cannot be said 
to have either long ones or short ones. 
The work however was almost com- 
rpleted, and was intended for the Easter 
holidays, but the Empeor did not live 
so long. 

J ' If notwithstanding all the distinguish- 
ed kindness of the Court-Marshal, whose 
noble conduct I shall ever remember 
with gratitude, a thousand little plagues 
had not contributed to disgust me witli 
the management of the playhouse, I may 
with truth reckon this among the most 
happy periods of my life ; for I had 
formed round me a circle of select and 
amiable friends; their number indeed 



•was small, but their merit amply sup- 
plied, that deficiency. Among these 
I may name Aulic Counsellor Siorch^ 
known in Germany as an excellent 
writer, and well known to me for the 
goodness of his heart and the generosity 
of his sentiments; the worthy Con .^sel- 
ler of State Suthof and his lady were 
of the number, as wel as the £ tsellor 
*of State Welzien, a most modest man^ 
and endowed with original comic hii* 
mour. We had established among our- 
selves a little well regulated circle^ v/her,e 
I have passed hours, the remembrance 
of which will be long attended with the 
most agreeable sensations.; and I am 
sure that on their parts, the friends I 
have named will often think of me* 



■£ND OF VQL* II- 



GXLLETT, S*U&ur$' -Square, 



THE 
MOST REMARKABLE YEAR 

IN 

THE LIFE 

OF 

AUGUSTUS VON KOTZEBUE; 

h 

CONTAINING AN ACCOUNT OF 

HIS EXILE INTO SIBERIA, 

AND OF 

The other extraordinary Events which happened //» him 
IN RUSSIA, 



WRITTEN BY HIMSELF. 



TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN, BY 

JTHE REV. BENJAMIN BERESFORLX 

English Lecturer to the Queen of Prussia, 



IN THREE VOLUMES 
VOI, III. 

HonDrm : 

PRINTED FOR RICHARD PHILLIPS. 
No. 71, St. Paul's Church-yard. 

By T. Gillet, Salisbury-square. 



THE. 

MOST REMARKABLE YEAR 
OF MY LIFE, 

,V T this period I found myself sud* 
JlT\ denly emancipated from the trou* 
blesome business of the theatre, and in 
the most agreeable manner. The Empe- 
ror had just finished his famous palace of 
Michailoff. Enamoured with this fairy 
castle, which rose out of the earth as it 
were by magic, and which had cost be- 
tween fifteen and eighteen millions of 
rubles, he preferred it to all his other 
habitations, and left, among the rest, his 
Winter, Palace as it is called, an healthy 
and commodious building, to shut him- 
self up among damp walls, down which 
the water still continued to trickle; His 
Physcians were ordered to examine at 
several different times the state of this 



new edifice, and each time they warned 
him of the danger he would incur by 
residing in it. But perceiving they were 
continually sent to repeat their exami- 
nation, in order to w r eary them into a 
more favourable judgment, they at last 
surrendered up their sincerity* 

The Emperor took up his abode in 
this mephitic mansion in the depth of 
winter, and was highly delighted with 
it* He felt much pleasure in conducting 
his guests over the whole edifice, and in 
shewing them the various treasures which 
he had procured at a vast expence from 
Paris and Rome. The extravagant praises 
which were of course lavished upon 
mere trifles, and the exclamation a thou- 
sand times repeated that " all was divine, 
unique!" at length possessed him with 
the idea of having drawn up a detailed 
description of this eighth wonder of the 
world. He charged me with this task 



5 

in the most flattering manner. More 
than once he was pleased to tell me that he 
expected to see something extraordinary 
produced by my pen, and threw me into 
great embarrassment by the high ex- 
pectation he had formed relative to my 
work. He lent me The Description of 
Berlin and Potsdam, written by Nicolai, 
from his own library ; at the same time 
expressing* a wish that my description 
might be stilt more c/cf ailed thin Nicolai's. 
I complied immediately with the Mo- 
narch's j orders. — I observed however 
that I was deficient in many branches 
of knowledge necessary to produce this 
work ; that I knew not how to describe, 
in proper terms, the several beauties of 
architecture, sculpture, and painting; 
that 1 presumed therefore to request that 
I might be allowed the assistance of 
able men in these different departments* 
The request was instantly granted. I 



proposed for antiquities the Aulic Coun- 
sellor Kohler^ keeper of the cabinet of cu- 
riosities at the Hermitage, a man equally 
able and obliging. For architecture 
I named Brenna the Roman; and for 
painting the two brothers Kugelkhen, 
whose admirable talents and amiable 
manners are generally known. 

His Majesty with great. goodness con- 
sented to every thing I proposed ; and 
gave orders, that I should have access to 
every part of the palace at all hours. 
The Grand Marshal, as captain of the 
palace, made the tour with me the first 
time, and I then set about my task. 

I spent the greater part of every day 
in this edifice : I was there in the morn- 
ing, the afternoon, and often late in the 
evening. T frequently met the Emperor 
as I was busied in noting down my 
observations. He always stopped, and 
spake to me in a very friendly manner ; 



7 

and often exhorted me to describe no- 
thing superficially, hut to enter into the 
most complete detail. 

I availed myself of this opportunity to 
request my discharge from the manager- 
ship of the theatre, and presented my pe- 
tition in writing to Count de Narischkin 
the 8th of February. The Count made 
many flattering objections ; but per- 
ceiving that I persisted in my solici- 
tations, he postponed the matter to a 
future day. In a short time however 
I renewed my solicitation, nor did I 
cease my importunity till I clearly dis- 
covered the inefficacy of my applica- 
tions. I then petitioned for some allevi- 
ation of the burthen imposed upon me ; 
aliedging that my attendance at Michai- 
loff did not allow me sufficient time to 
superintend the affairs of the theatre; 
and that if my discharge should be de- 
nied, I had no expedient left but to ask 



8 

for a colleague. This last request was 
granted; and the choice of the col- 
league was left to myself. In this man- 
ner I obtained, in the person of one of 
my friends, an assistant, with a salary of 
fifteen hundred rubles and a yearly be- 
nefit; and upon him I was thus enabled 
to throw a great part of that load of 
troubles inseparable from a situation of 
that nature. 

I must take this opportunity of re- 
futing an absurd paragraph which has 
crept into the gazette/i/r de elegante Welt. 
It asserts, in the first place, that I wearied 
$ut the actors in making them study their 
parts. I apprehend that the man who 
furnished this article is himself some 
idle player, constantly imperfect in his 
part, since I never allowed less than 
a fortnight for the most trivial charac- 
ters. In the same place he asserts, that 
'my pieces alone were -represented, A 



most ridiculous reproach! The greater 
part of the new pieces in fact were 
mine, because it was not possible to ob- 
tain others. All Europe knows that 
no manuscript was suffered to pass the 
frontiers; that all books, even the bible, 
were proscribed. How then could I 
procure new plays ? I had only The Re- 
memkrances of IfSand, and The Incognito 
of Ziegler, and two or three more which 
Mire had left in the stock of the the- 
atre. These I had given, and others J 
could mi give. I appeal to the testimony 
of Iffland himself, who will declare that 
I had written to him to send me some 
of his new pieces, closely transcribed in 
the form of letters. Even this was a 
dangerous expedient; and since 1 ob- 
tained nothing in this manner, I could 
only give old stock pieces ; for I was 
nearly at the end of my own. Such an 
attack is really scandalous, since the 



■IO 



writer, if he actually wrote from Peters- 
burg, must have been fully convinced of 
the injustice of the charge. 

» What he has further written against 
me has been already refuted, or shall 
be in the sequel. The reader, I trust, 
will pardon this digression on a subject 
in which my honour is so materially 
concerned. 

The description of the palace was 
nearly completed when the Emperor 
died. As the greater part of the va- 
luable articles which it contained were 
soon after removed ; and as the build- 
ing itself, as well as the whole arrange- 
ment of it, throws considerable light 
upon the taste, and even the character 
of that Prince, I shall gratify the wishes 
of several of my friends, and I trust 
indulge the curiosity of many of my 
readers, by the insertion of an abridg- 
ment of a long and painful work* 



1 1 

A Short Description of the- Imperial Pala-ce 
of Michdilojf. 

This edifice stands at the confluence of 
the Mo'ika and the Fontanka, and occu- 
pies the ground on which the summer pa- 
lace of Peter the Great had been erected. 
The Empress Elizabeth caused many al- 
terations to be made therein : being built 
of wood however it soon fell into decay; 
and a Phoenix has risen from its ashes. * 
The garden street terminates with a 
portal. Eight doric columns of red mar- 
ble, the produce of the country, support 
> anumber of trophies, and three gates 
open between four pillars of granite. The 
Emperor's cypher (interwoven with the 
Maltese cross) with eagles, crowns, and 
garlands, in gilt bronze, ornament the 
gates and paiiisades. The middle gate 

is never opened except for the Imperial 

- t — ■ — — ■ — •-• 

* For a description of the Mo'ika, theFontanka, 
the summer palace, &c« see Storch's Picture of Pe- 
tersburg. 






12 

family. These gates lead to a triple 
row of linden and birch trees, three 
hundred feet long, planted in the 
reign of the Empress Anne. This alley 
is bounded on the left by the exercise 
room, an immense edifice of an oblong 
square, which is never warm during 
winter, although furnished with twenty 
four huge stoves. On the right the 
walk is bordered by the stable walls : it 
is terminated by two pavilions intended 
for the lodgings of the officers of the 
Imperial household. 

A drawbridge leads over a canal 
thirty feet wide, faced with free stone, 
to the grand area before the palace,, 
which is three hundred and thirty feet 
long, and sixty feet wide. In the mid- 
dle stands a colossal equestrian statue 
in bronze of Peter the Great, upon a 
marble pedestal, raised upon four steps. 
The horse seems in motion ; the rider is 



*3 

dressed in a Roman habit, and crowned 
with a laurel wreath. An Italian of 
the name of Martelli cast this statue in 
the year 1744, in the reign of Elizabeth; 
and it had lain forgotten under a shed 
crer since. The esteem the great grand- 
son entertained for his ancestor drew 
it out of its obscurity. On the pedestal 
is the following inscription : 

Prodaedu Pravnuch** 
On the right and left sides of this 
pedestal are two bass-reliefs in bronze, 
representing the battle of Pultava, and 
the taking of Schlusselburg. 

We now come to the front of 
the palace. Each side of this edifice 
measures two hundred and ninety 
four feet, independent of the salient 
angles. The building is surrounded on 
all sides by canals, which are supplied 

1 

* The great grandson to his great grandfather. 



u 

by the Fontanka: they are ornamented 
with quays of granite, over which are 
thrown five drawbridges. The founda- 
tions of the palace are nine feet deep, 
and composed of large piles driven close 
to each other, and cased with strong 
pieces of timber. 

- The subterraneous part, and the first 
story, are built with blocks of granite, 
and the two other stories with brick, in- 
crusted in part with, marble. The rest 
is covered with a reddish stucco, which 
colour tradition ascribes to a trait of 
chivalrous gallantry. A lady of the court 
having one day appeared in gloves of 
that hue, it is positively said that the 
Emperor sent one of them as a pattern 
to the plaisterer. It must be confessed, 
however, that such a colour suited a 
pair of gloves much better than the walls 
of a palace. Many of the inhabitants of 
Petersburg seized that opportunity of 



*5 

flattering the Emperor, and daubed 
their houses with this colour. Madame 
Chevalier carried this species of flattery 
still farther ; she made choice of the co- 
lour for the part of Iphigenia. „ 

The reader may form some idea of the 
impression with which a stranger must 
be struck on approaching this edifice. 
It is a monstrous mass of red stone, 
environed with ditches and drawbridges, 
and encumbered with twenty pieces of 
large brass cannon, many of the various 
ornaments of which are directly con- 
trary to the common rules of art. The 
two large obelisks of grey marble, for 
instance, at the entrance of the principal 
front, reach to the top of the edifice 
and support the Emperor's cypher in 
bronze, with trophies of white marble; 
and near them are the two statues, Diana 
and tfce Belvedere Apollo, which being 
placed in small niches, produce a mean 



i6 

effect, merely on account of their situa- 
tion : above these is a colonade of the 
doric order, sustaining a rustic portal ; 
a frontispiece of Parian marble, the 
work of the two Stagis, likewise catches 
the eye, presenting History under the 
figure of Fame, as she appears on Tra- 
jan's column: on the attic two goddesses 
of glory support the Imperial arms, and 
on the roof, which is over-laid with green 
varnish, appear struggling groups of sta- 
tues, representing Cybeles crowned with 
towers and bearing on their shields, the 
arms of the Russian provinces. Upon 
the frieze, which is composed of por- 
phyry of the country, we read the fol- 
lowing words . 

DOMTJ TVOJEMU PODOVAJET 
SVATUNA GOSPODNA v'DOLGOTU DNEI.* 

* Holiness becometh thine house for e^er. Psalm 
xciii, terse 5. 



n 

And lastly, above the gate, upon a 
ground of black marble, we behold this 
inscription j 

VOSKRESENSKIJA.* 

Such is the grotesque assemblage of 
objects which excites the stranger's sur- 
prize, each of which, if taken separate- 
ly, would display many beauties; but 
which, grouped as they are, produce an 
•effect disgusting to true taste. The ar- 
chitect, whose name is Brenna^ ascribes 
the whole composition to the Emperor 
himself, who, according to his account, 
even sketched the designs j but some 
people doubt this assertion. 

The church starts out in the form of 
an oval from the second front. It is in- 
crusted with grey Siberian marble, and 
^decorated with bass-reliefs, representing 
the four Evangelists, with a cornice 
of cherubs, together with two statues 

* The Sabbath gate. 
VOL, III. £ 



iS 

standing in niches, the one of Religion, 
:md the other of Faith.* On the attic 
ire two statues of St. Peter and St. Paul 
on each side of a cross. A gilt tower 
finishes the dome of the church ; the 
cupola is hung with four chandeliers^ 
which, as well as the dome itself, and 
the cross, are of gilded bronze. 

Over a door, not far from the church, 
we read this word, inscribed on a black 
jnarble ground : 

ROSCHESTWENSKIJA.f 

I endeavoured in vain to discover the 
Monarch's intention in the choice he 
had made of the two last inscriptions. 
A man of high consequence, however, 
advised me to leave them untranslated 
in my description. 

* These two beautiful statues, by Conrad ini, 
-.vere brought hither from the summer-gardens, and 
ate more fully described in Storch's Picture of Pe- 
tersburg, p. 431. 
-f The gate of the Resurrection* 



i 9 

The third front overlooks the summer- 
garden : a circular stair-case, containing 
twenty -six steps of Serdopol granite, 
leads to a large hail, supported by ten 
doric pillars of red marble. The floor 
is white ; on each side axe two Egyptian 
statues of bardiglio de Carrara^ a hard 
stone, resembling in colour a basalt. The 
landing-place of the stair-case is graced 
on each side with six doric columns of 
red marble, over which rises an attic, 
surrounded by a balustrade, which serves 
as a belvedere.. To these ornaments are 
likewise added the statues of Prudence 
and Strength, which stand in two niches. 
In the cupola of an adjacent pavilion, is 
the palace clock ; and when the Em- 
peror is here, the Imperial flag is hoisted 
on a small tower, which ibrms a part of 
the pavilion. 

Having thus surveyed the exterior of 
;the palace, we shall enter it on the side 



of the grand front; and the Sabbath- 
xioor will lead us under a peristyle, which 
forms an oblong square. On each side 
the coach-way, which divides the peris- 
tyle, rises a colonade containing twenty- 
four doric pillars : each pillar is compos- 
ed of a single block of granite; the bases 
and capitals of which are of Raskol 
marble. In the midst of the colonade 
are placed the copies of the Medicean and 
Borghcsian vases,* in white marble, and 
on cne side stand two colossal statues 
in niches, the one, representing Hercules 
with his club, and the other, Alexander 
the Great. 

After having traversed the peristyle. 
-we come to the interior area of the 
palace, an octagon of one hundred and 
ninety-eight feet diameter, and which 

* Brought from the Tauridan palace, where 
they were placed by prince Poteoikin, and are .of 

exquisite workmanship. 



21 " 

lies six feet higher than the circumjacent 
level. The Imperial Family and Aoibas-* 
sadors are alone permitted to drive 
through this court. 

It would be impossible to count how 
often the Emperor's cypher is repeated 
within and without this edifice; in the 
interior court the piers of the windows 
and all the adjacent parts are filled with 
it. In this area,- in -eight -niches, stand 
as many statues of wretched workman- 
ship ; they are intended to represent 
Strength, Plenty, Victory, Glory, toe. 
but they are miserably executed, and 
furnish new proof of the disgusting con- 
trast of the luxury and want of taste 

4 

which prevail through the whole palace, 
Four large flights of steps, and two of 
less dimensions, lead from the area to 
the inside of the palace, and are termi- 
nated by large glass doors; but without 
passing through the court we enter on 



22 



the left side of the peristyle into aii 
eval room, where thirty soldiers and one 
efficer of the regiment of life-guards re- 
main always upon duty. This party is 
continually relieved by another of the 
same regiment, while- the rest of the 
palace is guarded by soldiers of several 
different regiments. The spot where 
these thirty men mount guard has been 
very judiciously chosen ; the hall they, 
occupy extending on one side to the ex- 
tremity of the peristyle, and on the other 
to the state stair-case ; no one could ap- 
proach the Emperor without passing 
dose to the guard-house. The granite 
steps of this stair-case rise between two 
balustrades of gray Siberian marble, in- 
termixed^ with pilasters of polished 
bronze. The walls are incrusted with 
various kinds of marble, and the com- 
partments were intended to be painted 
in fresco. On the landing place stood 



2 3 

a fine xropy in white marble of the Capi- 
toline Cleopatra; on each side were seen 
the statues of Prudence and Justice in 
niches. At the top of the staircase two 
grenadiers stand always upon guard. 

I. have led the reader as far as the 
grand mahogany doors, the pannels of 
which are richly ornamented with shields 
and arms, and Gorgons' heads finely 
worked in bronze. The door on the 
right opens into the state apartments of 
the Emperor. 

From an oval anti-chamber, in which 
we behold with pleasure the bust of Gus^ 
tavus Adolphus, and with pity an- al- 
legorical ceiling painted by a Russian 
dauber of the name of Smuglevitsch, we 
pass into a spacious room plaistered with 
spotted yellow, stucco. For the sake of 
brevity, I shall mention only the prin- 
•cipal ornaments of each chamber. In 
this room were six historical picture % 



24 

sixteen feet in height and twelve irr 
width. The subjects are as follows: 
The battle ofPultava, by Schebujsff, a fine 
composition, full of force and expression, 
in which Peter the Great and General 
Bchermetoff are the principal figures. 
The faking of Casan, by the Czar Ivan 
Vasilevitsch, painted by Ogrurnof] a well- 
grouped piece. The Coronation of Michael 
Fedorowiisch Romanow, Grandfather to 
Peter the Great, a good picture, the 
work of 0-.grumqff> who deserves to be 
ranked among the best historical painters 
of his time. \ The Union of the Russian 
and Turkish Fleets r and their common 
passage through the Dardanelles, by Pret- 
schetnikoff^ an indifferent representation 
of a memorable event, though not defi- 
cient in aerial perspective. The Victory of 
Prince Demetrius Ivanovitsch Donsky over 
the Tartars of the Don in the Plains of 
Kulikoff, and The Baptism of the great 



Duke of "Vladimir i painted by an English-- 
man of the name of* Atkinson, whose 
pencil has a bold and striking effect r , 
though he is far from being faultless with 
regard to his outlines.! . 

I shall now introduce the reader into 
the throne-chamber, which is seventy 
feet long and thirty wide*- It was per- 
fectly well fitted up, and the sight of it 
created respect and confidence. I shall 
not speak of the hangings of green velvet 
embroidered with gold, nor of the mag- 
nificent furniture, nor the colossal stove, 
twenty-six feet in height, and almost co- 
vered with bronze. The throne was 
covered -with red velvet richly worked 
in gold. On the back were displayed 

* Mr. John Atkinson, a young artist of great 
talents. He was brought up under his father-in- 
law, Mr. James Walker, and finished his studies 
at the Academy of Arts. 

t The Emperor's funeral decorations have sine? 
-been erected" in this room, 



i6 

the arms of Russia, surrounded with 
those of the kingdoms of Kasan and As* 
trakhan, of Siberia and Great Russia. In 
various niches, directly opposite to the 
throne, and over the doors, were filled 
with antique busts of Julius Cxsar, An- 
toninus Pius^ Lucius Verus, and others. 
Above these. appeared colossal statues of 
Justice, Peace, Victory, and Glory; and 
round the chambers were displayed the 
arms of all the provinces subject to the 
Russian sceptre, seventy-six in number, 
emblematically representing the different 
inhabitants of this vast empire. It must 
be confessed^ that these decorations, 
which were invented by the Monarch 
himself, could not have been better 
chosen, and they manifested, whatever 
the world may choose to say, the noble 
and chivalrous spirit that animated his 
breast. 

Among the superb furniture of this* 
chamber, a looking-glass, the largest hi 



2 7 

the palace, is worthy of notice. It is o£ 
one single plate, nearly twelve feet in 
height and seven wide. There are like- 
wise three magnificent tables worthy the 
admiration of the curious, one of verde. 
anticOj and the others of oriental ^green- 
porphyry. Each of these is upwards of 
six feet long and two feet wide ; they 
are supported by brass and bronze co-. 
lumns four feet high. A vast sconce of 
bronze hung from the ceiling, which is. 
decorated with two allegorical paintings, 
very indifferently executed, by Varelianu 
The banner of the Order of Malta was- 
introduced, into both these pictures. 

From the throne-chamber we. pass, 
into the Arabesque gallery, through a 
door placed between two beautiful doric 
pillars of oriental porphyry, which were 
purchased at Rome. On the cornice 
stood the busts of Marcus Aurelius, with 
several large vases of red Siberian por~ 



28 

pKyry. Five niches were filled with as 
many statues, copied in Italy from an- 
tiques, and representing the Venus de 
Medici, Antinous Germanicus, the Apollo 
of Florence, and the Venus Callipygia. 
The architecture of this gallery is in the 
style of the famous chamber of Raphael 
at the Vatican, and like that wholly or- 
namented with arabesques in different 
colours, by Pietro Scoti 9 the figures were 
painted by Vighi ; the work, however, 
remains unfinished. 

From this room we pass through a 
large glass door into the laocoon gallery, 
so called from the celebrated group of 
that name, copied at Rome from the 
original, composed of one single block 
of marble without spot or vein, and 
transported to Petersburg without the 
least accident. 

The walls are decorated with four 
superb Gobelins hangings, twelve feet 



$9 

square, representing Saint Peter fishing 
—Jesus driving the buyers and sellers out 
<fihe temple — -The Resurrection of Lazarus , 
and Mary Magdalene anointing the feet of 
-our Savwur. Two groups taken from 
ancient fable form a strange contrast 
with the above scriptural subject : these 
are copies by Pacetti, from the celebrated 

• Canova of Diana and Endymion, and Cu- 
pid and Psyche. At one glance the eye 
catches the figure of Jesus Christ and 
that of the perpetual sleeper. 

Over the doors are two pictures by 
D alter a of Rome, in wax colours; the 

* subjects are Ulysses finding Penelope •, and 
Hector taking leave of Ayidromache. They 
are already damaged by the dampness 
of their position; the latter is almost 

-cracked in two. 

\ shall not speak of the valuable tables 

*0§ breccia and oriental alabaster, the 
chairs of velvet, the various bronzes, all 
executed at Paris, &c. Lshall only men- 



3<> 

tion some of the innumerable clocks that 
were to be seen all over the palace. In 
this room there was one, in whict the 
four Seasons were represented in bronze 
in a car drawn by lions, and conducted 
bv one of the Genii, The wheel served 



as a dial-plate. The observer, by looking 
upwards, would soon dissipate all the 
eSect this curious piece of tnechanism 
might have produced on his mind, by 
the sight of pictures which disfigure the 
deling; that in the middle, representing 
the Choice of Hercules , is the least objec- 
tionable of the three; on the right is Cou- 
rage accompanied by Merit? on the left 
y ust ice and Peace embracing each other? 
these are all painted by Sniuglevitsch, an 
abortive son of the Muses and Graces. It 
must be observed, however, that the 
Emperor himself had furnished the sub- 
jects of this cieling ; he it was who asso- 
ciated justice and peace, courage and 
.merit together. It had been well had lie 



committed the execution of these de- 
rmis to a. moveable hand. But such 
was Bis general conduct. The source of 
Jiis actions was always pure and benevo- 
lent, but the agents of his intentions 
were frequently corrupt. 

Two life-guard subalterns stood cen- 
tinel, with spontoons in their hands, at 
the entrance of an oval apartment, in 
which sixteen Corinthian columns of 
stucco supported an attic, the ceiling of 
which rested upon as many caryatides, 
executed by Alban'u Five allegorical bas- 
reliefs, that set all explanation at defi- 
ance, filled -up the -intervals. The furni- 
ture of this room was of flame-coloured 
-velvet, worked on silver, which produc- 
ed a fine effect. 

The ceiling painted by Vighi, and of 
-a different description from those just 
^mentioned, represents the Gods in Olym- 
pus. Jupiter seems to be absorbed in a 



3 2 

fiood of glory, and the whole composi- 
tion bespeaks the hand of a distinguish- 
ed artist. 

Near this apartment is the Marble Hall, 
the guard-house of the Knights of Malta, 
which ^measures ninety feet in length, 
thirty in breadth, and near forty-two in 
height. The architecture is composed 
of two different orders ; the walls are 
divided, as high as the attic, into vast 
compartments, decorated with breccia 
corolina de Geneva, and black Porto- Ve- 
nese marble. The long and flat sconces 
of polished bronze, which are fixed at 
proper distances in the wails, produced 
a good effect upon the black ground. 
At one end of the wall is an orchestra of 
white marble, surrounded by a balustrade 
of polished bronze, on which w r ere rang- 
ed ten large vase chandeliers. The ceil- 
ing was naked, a Parnassus was then 
painting at Rome to cover-.it> 



33 

A large niche, formed and sttppdrtecl 
by two superb Ionic columns of Siberian 
marble, divided the hall into two equal 
parts. A chimney-piece of white' marble, 
sustained by four termes, and incrusted 
with lapis lazuli and agate, is construct- 
ed in this niche. Two other chimnies 
are built on each side, in similar niches, 
and afford fine specimens of gipolino an- 
tics, a rare marble, resembling green pe- 
trified wood. The niches were adorned 
with statues, copied at Rome from the 
antique, representing Bacchus, Mercury, 
Flora, and Venus. I pass over the clocks, 
sconces, vases, small statues, and all the 
curious ornaments in bronze, which 
contributed to the decoration of the 
apartment. 

At one end of this hall is a grand 
niche formed by two large Ionic co- 
lumns, and containing a door -way. 

vol. in. c 



<14 

through which we pass irito the circular 
throne-chamber. 

Sixteen Atlases of colossal size sustain 
the dome; The walls are hung with red 
velvet embroidered with gold, and de- 
corated with gilt carvings. The win- 
dows are concealed by curtains of the 
same stuff except one, which is compos- 
ed of a single pane of glass, and framed 
in solid silver. The throne differs in 
no respect from that already described, 
• except in the number of steps, the 
former being composed of eight, and 
this of only three. One sconce of nine, 
and eight others of seven feet in height, 
ornamented this apartment j they were 
all of massy silver, highly polished,work- 
ed in one piece, and were purchased ^t 
the manufactory of the ingenious M. 
Buch, Counsellor of State in the king- 
dom of Denmark. The ceiling, which 



S3 

painted in camain and gold, intermix- 
ed with arabesques, was executed by 
Carlo Scott. 

Some time before his death, the Em- 
peror had ordered several alterations to 
be made in this room. The red velvet 
hangings were to have been stripped off, 
to give place to others of yellow velvet, 
finely embroidered in silver. In the. 
corners were to have been placed large 
roses of massy silver, with medallions 
and wreaths of laurel. of the same metal* 
The two tables, the stands, the clocks, 
&c. were likewise to have been of silver, 
and- the court goldsmiths had already 
been furnished with fourteen hundred 
pounds w r eight of that metal for this 
purpose. 

T From this room a door opens into the 
inner apartments of the Empress. The 
first chamber was hung with tapestry of 
sky-blue ground, upon which were re* 






-36 

presented various views of the Castle of 
Pavlofsky. At the bottom of the 
rdom is a niche sustained by two superb 
Doric columns of porphyry, before 
which is phced the group of Apollo and 
.Daphne^ copied in 'Carrara marble from 
Bernini. Vases, clocks, tables of por- 
phyry, agate, oriental alabaster, rosso an- 
iko? and bronze were ornamentally scat- 
tered over the chamber. Paintings in 
wax -colours by Balkra adorned the 
door-tops-; and the ceiling, as well as 
most of the others in the palace; was 
painted in fresco by CadenaccL 

Two doors formed of mahogany, rose- 
wood, and cedar, embossed with gilt 
carvings, and encrusted with white 
marble, lapis lazuli, and malachite, lead 
us into & cabinet as much overcharged 
with ornaments as the doors themselves, 
and with which the eye quickly grows 
distracted* and fatigued. The walk are 



37 

of grey Siberian marble, with compart- 
ments of lapis-lazuli, &c. and a wainscot 
of giallo and nero antico; the cornice lapis 
lazuli with lions heads in bronze; the cor- 
nice is topped with bass reliefs raised upon 
a polished golden ground. The divans 
or sofas, the stools, and the curtains were 
cloth of gold : a niche was formed by 
two Corinthian columns of fine oriental 
alabaster of entire pieces ; the pedestals 
encrusted with verde antico and lapis-la- 
zuli ; there was likewise a group in white 
marble, representing Castor and Pollux, 
the work of Albaginiy and in two small 
niches the Tragic and the Comic Muses* 
The chimney-piece was of verde antico , 
malaehite, and bronze ; besides these 
were tables, vases, and small statues in 
agate, bronze, &c. together with a quan- 
tity of fine china painted with arabesques 
in the manner of Raphael. All these 
and many otter articles which I have not 



3* 

named, were crouded into 3, closet of 
twelve feet square. 

The closet opens into the - state bed- 
room, which is more plainly, and there- 
fore more agreeably furnished. This 
chamber is very spacious. The walls are 
of stucco, covered with festoons painted 
upon a polished gold ground. 

The bed, which is richly carved and 
gilt, is surrounded by a balustrade of 
massy silver of four hundred and ninety 
pounds weight. Over the bed is a sky- 
blue velvet canopy, suspended by six 
silver strings. The cornice is supported 
by Corinthian columns, and painted in 
arabesque, upon a polished gold ground. 
The interstices of the columns are fur- 
nished with divans of blue velvet, and 
vast looking-glasses, composed of single 
plates. The chimney is of white Carrara 
marble, with a cornice ornamented with 
lapis-lazuli, and Florentine Mosaic work 



39 

of "amethyst' and other fine stones* re^ 
presenting various kinds of fruit in the> 
most natural manner. An allegorical 
ceiling, indifferently painted by Valerhiij 
seemed to be very difficult to unravel. 

The chamber next to the state bed- 
room was fitted up in a plain style, and 
has served at one time for an eatings 
and at another for a concert room. Be- 
sides two chimney-pieces and some por- 
phyry vases, the room affords nothing 
remarkable, It interested me however 
exceedingly, as it was the play-room of 
the young Grand Dukes. I have many 
times found them here ; they are two 
lively spirited princes, and extremely af- 
fable and polite to ail ranks of people* 
The tenderness of the Empress mother,- 
whose soul is wrapped up in her chil- 
dren, had provided against accidents by 
having caused pillows to be piled against 1 . 



4o 

tEe glass doors which open upon the 
balcony, to the height of four feet. 

Leaving this apartment on the left, 
and the common apartments of the Em- 
press on the right, we pass through a 
room of no grand appearance into her 
Majesty's throne-chamber. The throne 
itself resembles that of the Emperor,, 
except that it is less, and only stands on 
a single step. A grand niche sustained 
by two colossal caryatides, contains a 
iine chimney piece of white marble, re- 
presenting the nine Muses. The splen- 
dour of the furniture may be compared 
with that of the other chambers. I shall 
only mention a beautiful clock, repre- 
senting Phoebus in his car drawn by 
two horses, and performing his diurnal- 
course. The dial-plate is fixed in the 
wheel of the car, the whole is highly 
finished, and exhibits a master-piece of 



41 

art. The ceiling, painted by Metienleiter* 
represents the judgment of Paris, and is 
not ill. done. Of the same description are 
the pictures by Bessonoff, a scholar of the 
Academy of Arts at Petersburg, which 
are placed over the doors,- and represent 
Painting, Sculpture, and Architecture. 
On one side of the throne-chamber is 
the gallery of Raphael,so called from four, 
magnificent pieces of tapestry, which 
almost cover a wall of seventy-two feet 
in length. These are copies of four well- 
known pictures by Raphael in the Va- 
tican. Constaiitine haranguing his troops 
on the day he gave battle to Maxentius. 
Heliodorus driven out of the temple, the 
famous School of Athens, and the no less 
famous Par?iassus, in which Apollo plays 
on a modern violin. I refer the reader 
to M. Ramdohr's able description q£ 
these pictures, before even the copies of 
which I have passed many an hour in 



42 

silent admiration. A large ceiling-piece, 
and two small ones, painted by Met* 
tenleiter, deserve attention ; that in the 
middle represents the temple of Mi-. 
nerva, upon the steps of which the libe- 
ral arts are grouped ; the Greek that 
represents architecture is a portrait of 
Brenna ; and M-ettenleiier has depicted 
himself in the allegorical figure that per- 
sonates painting. The subjects of the 
two small ceilings are Prometheus ani- 
mating man*) and Idleness and Industry* 
This gallery is adorned likewise with 
fine bronzes, marble chimney-pieces, &c« 

The gallery leads to an oblong saloon, 
in which are a very fine antique statue 
of Bacchus , and a modern statue, per- 
haps as fine, of Diana, executed by Hou* 
don. The whole room is filled with busts, 
bass-reliefs, sarcophagi, antique vases, 
&c. of very different degrees of merit* 

This saloon lies contiguous to the 



43 

guard-hall, where a detachment of horse 
always remained on duty. The room 
merely exhibits four Ionic columns, and 
a ceiling-piece by Smuglevitsch, in which 
Curtius leaps into the gulf in a very 
aukward manner. 

We are now upon the grand stair- 
case again, after having gone through 
the state chambers of the Emperor and 
Empress, to the right and to the left. 
On the 8th of November, 1800, his 
f Imperial Maj eft y celebrated the inaugu- 
ration of the palace with the greatest 
pomp. He dined for the first time in 
this edifice, and gave a grand masked 
ball to the public, during which all the 
apartments which I have described were 
thrown open, and lighted up with seve- 
ral thousand wax candles. 

The reader will doubtless be curious 
to, be acquainted with the rooms which 
the Emperor and Empress commonlv 



44 

inhabited. From Raphael's gallery a 
door opened into the apartments of 
the monarch : an anti-chamber plainly 
painted, had no other ornament than 
seven pictures by Charles Vanloo, repre- 
senting the legends of Saint Gregory, 

The second room, inlaid with white 
and stripes of gold, was decorated with 
fine landscapes, and several views of the 
palace itself. The ceiling had a very 
striking effect ; it was painted by Tiepolo r 
and represented Mark Antony and 
Cleopatra dissolving the pearl in vinegar. 
The ignorance of the painted has com- 
mitted several ridiculous faults agaihst 
costume. 

In the third apartment the walls are 
almost entirely covered by six land- 
scapes, painted by Martinoff, which ex- 
hibit views of the palaces of Gatschina 
and Pavlofsky. Six elegant mahogany 
cases, upon which are fixed twenty beau- 



45 

tiful vases of porphyry, oriental alabas- 
ter, &c. contain the Emperor's private 
library. This room was the post of his 
Majesty's body hussar. A back door 
leads from hence into a kitchen which 
supplies the table of the monarch, and 
in which he had designedly established 
i a German cook, who always dressed his 
victuals. He had lately fitted up a si*- 
milar kitchen near his own apartments 
at the winter palace. Where is the man, 
who with all these precautions, (perhaps 
very necessary ones) could envy the 
^condition of the most powerful monarch 
;upon earth ? 

Another private dcor opens into a. 
••small room intended for the body- 
iiussars, and which, communicating 
with a winding stair-case, since become 
very celebrated, leads into the court, 
through a door guarded by a single csb- 
sdnel. 



< From the library we pass knroedf- 
ately into the Emperor's bed-chamber, in 
which likewise he chiefly remained dur- 
ing the day, and in which he died. 
The room is very large, being, if I mis- 
take not, between thirty and forty feet 
square* The walls are wainscotted in 
white* and were hung with a great 
number of landscapes, the greater part 
by Vernet, some, by Woitvermann^. and 
Vender :Meulen+ In the middle of the 
chamber, behind a screen^ stood a small 
camp^ bed without curtains* Over the 
feed was an angel, (not a guardian one) 
by Gutdo Reni. In one corner hung th-g 
portrait of an ancient knight banneret, 
painted by Jean le Duc r which the Em* 
peror greatly valued. 

A bad picture of Frederick II. on 
horseback, and a well-known plaister- 
figure of that -monarch, placed in a cor- 
ner upon a marble pedestal, formed a 



m 

Grange contrast with these magnificent 
pictures. 

The Emperor's writing table was re- 
' markable in more than one respect. It 
was fixed upon four ivory pillars of the 
Ionic order, with bronze bases, and ca- 
pitals. An ivory edge of fine work- 
manship, ornamented with small vases 
of the same, was fixed to it. Two chan- 
deliers with ivory branches inserted in 
blocks of amber, displayed four paste 
medallions, in the manner of Leberecht, 
representing the Emperor, the Empress, 
the two Grand Dukes and the Grand 
Duchess Elizabeth. The table and the 
candlesticks were the work of the Em- 
press ; that princess, who patronizes the 
arts and cultivates them with success, 
turned the ivory with her own hands 
and formed the pastes. 

On one of the walls hung pictures 



Tepresenting all the different regimentals 
of the Russian army, 

A report has been a thousand times 
repeated, that the Emperor had a trap- 
« door in his bed-room, together with se- 
veral private doors : I am, however, 
^ enabled to declare and maintain the fal- 
sity of such assertion* The magnificent 
carpet that covered the floor rendered 
the very existence of such a door im- 
possible ; neither did the stove stand 
upon feet, and consequently there was 
410 hollow place under it, as has been 
likewise pretended. There were indeed 
two concealed doors in the room, but 
<one of them led to a corner that served 
for a well-known use, and the other 
;shut up a recess in which the swords of 
?such officers as were under arrest were 
deposited. The folding doors between 
the Emperor's chamber and the apart- 



49 

ments of the Empress remained shut 
and bolted on both sides. 

The passage from the bed-chamber to 
the library was furnished with double 
doors, and on account of the great thick- 
ness of the walls, there was space enough 
between them for the construction of 
two private ones ; in fact there were 
two : that on the right, shut up a dark 
closet where the imperial colours were 
kept; and that on the left opened upon 
a back stair-case which led to the Em- 
peror's apartments on the ground floor. 

Contiguous to this stair-case we enter 
a large wainscotted chamber, in one of 
the walls of which was fixed an old 
clock, made at Dresden by Dinglinger, 
in 1714. Three silver hands point out 
the hour, the temperature of the air, 
and the direction of the wind. This 
clock had formerly stood in the garden 
of Peter the Great. 

VOL. III. D 



5° 

From hence we step into a circular 
closet in which stood two Italian statues, 
a Vesta, and a woman sacrificing : be- 
sides these was a statue of Apollo, which 
was wrought at the Academy of Arts 
at Petersburg; and likewise a collec- 
tion of fine v&ses of Seve-porcelaine, and 
a valuable table of rossa antico. 

The next room, which is likewise 
wainscotted, contained an embroidered 
portrait of Peter the Great, of exquisite 
workmanship, several fine vases of Seve- 
manufactory, and some of the height of 
a man, made at the manufactory of Pe- 
tersburg. 

The last room, and in which the Em- 
peror usually transacted business, was 
wainscotted with walnut tree, and bor- 
dered with varnished carved festoons. 
The compartments were ornamented 
with pagan divinities surrounded with 
garlands, on which various kinds of 



birds were perched. The general effect 
of this room was soft and agreeable ; 
the furniture was superb, particularly a 
chest of drawers, the work of the fa* 
mous Rontgen, of Neuwied. A little 
monument that stood on a table, bear- 
ing this inscription — Mary, the 21 April, 
1791*, was probably the work of the 
Empress. A breakfast service of porcelain 
of the Petersburg manufactory, w r hich 
stood in this room, and on which were 
painted several views of the palace of 
Michailoff; afforded new proof of the 
Prince's predilection for this work of 
his own creation. 

j The way to the Empress's apartments 
lay through the concert-room already 
described. A chamber of a gay and ele- 
gant appearance communicated with a 
state-room, the walls of which were 

* The birth-day of Catherine II. 



5 2 

of grey Siberian marble, the compart- 
ments of lapis-lazuli and porphyry, the 
borders of variegated marble richly 
ornamented with gilded bronze. An- 
tique busts were placed at proper dis- 
tances round the walls, upon porphyry 
grounds; the pannels were of breccia. 
The chimney-piece was supported by 
alabaster columns ; the frieze was of 
njjerde antico, &c. The furniture was 
suitably splendid : the sconce, which I 
was of the finest crystal, cost twenty H 
thousand rubles. 

The Empress's dressing and working 
room lay contiguous to this state cham- 
ber. It was wainscotted, and the book- 
cases and chests of drawers were of the 
most beautiful mahogany. A golden 
toilet caught the attention in a less for- 
cible degree than four fine original pic- 
tures in the same room, one of which 
was painted by Marie Gerard^ the other 



. 53 
three by Greuze. (.One of the latter re- 
presents a young girl being scolded by 
her mother for gfivins: herself so much 
up to love affairs as to suffer her bird to 
die for want of food.) Diderot gives a 
ample description of this picture in his 
treatise on painting. A writing-table 
stood in the middle of the room, and 
bore marks of the noble and frequent 
use that had been made of it. The Em- 
press, as I have been told, lately slept 
in this chamber on account of its being; 
perfectly dry. 

The last room is a boudoir or round 
closet, resplendent with magnificence. 
The walls were hunsj with light blue 
velvet richly embroidered with gold 
stripes; and every part of the chamber 
displayed the finest specimens of art, 
either in bronze, or in lapis-lazuli and 
other valuable stones. I was particu- 
larly struck with a large red porphyry 



54 

vase standing upon a pedestal of the 
same, intermixed with malachite; the 
whole was five feet in, height. The 
iloor was covered with a splendid 
French .carpet. 

This closet, which is situated in a 
corner of the palace, behind the bed- 
rooms of the Emperor and the Empress, 
connected those two apartments toge- 
ther by a single wall, but of such thick- 
ness, that we are not surprised her Ma- 
jesty was ignorant ofythe death of her 
husband for some time after the event. 

Besides the Emperor and Empress, 
the Grand Duke, his consort, and a lady 
of honour, no one lodged on this story. 
In the chamber of the Grand Duchess 
Anne I remarked a time-piece which 
was inscribed with the following words: 
{Love reduced to reason^ The god appears 
in fetters, and Reason holds the end of 
the chain. In the presence of such a 



beautiful and amiable princess, the pu- 
nishment, however, did not seem at all 
severe. In her husband's apaitment I 
saw a codv of the Borghesian herma- 
phrodite, and one of the Venus coming 
out of the bath in the Florentine gal- 
lery. 

On the ground floor, there is no* 
thin a: remarkable besides an unfinished 
theatre and the church. In the latter, 
the choir is supported by fourteen Ionic 
columns of Serdepol granite. The 
grand altar, which is of an octagonal 
form, is constructed of black and 
white marble. Three doors lead to it ; 
that in the middle is of massy silver, in, 
open work, and ornamented with six 
medallions, painted on copper, by Pro- 
fessor Giovenco. Over the door are 
silver rays of glory ; and the whole 
altar is incrusted with lapis-lazuii and 
bronze. The altar-piece represents the 



5* 

last supper, and was painted by Akimoff\ 
one of the professors of the academy. 
On either side the middle door stands 
a magnificent Corinthian column of 
porphyry, with a bronze base and capi- 
tal; the pedestal is incrusted with lapis- 
lazuli. Silver lamps are hung before 
various images, and in the middle of 
them appears a golden one set with 
brilliants. The further end of the edi- 
fice is terminated by a large picture, 
alas ! by S?nug!evitsch, representing the 
archangel Michael, the patron of the 
church, hurling the devils headlong into 
the dark abyss. The decorous artist, 
who was obliged to paint this group 
naked, has hafl recourse to a singular 
expedient in order to avoid giving the 
least offence to modesty, p Every devil, 
as if by accident, covers either with his 
hands or feet such parts of the adjacent 
figures as the painter thought fit * to 



57 

conceal ; which, in fact, rather trans- 
gresses against than preserves decency. 
The ceiling . of the cupola was painted 
by Carlo Scott ^ and, happily for the ar- 
tist, his work is almost defaced by the 
dampness of the situation. A gallery, 
containing four separate pews, was 
erected on each side of the altar for the 
use of the imperial family. 

The rest of the ground-floor was oc- 
cupied by the Grand Duke Alexander 
and his consort, the young Grand 
Duke Nicolas Pavlovitsch, Princess Ga- 
garin, Count Narischkin, and Count 
KoteitzofF, the Emperor's favourite. I 
shall confine myself to the description 
of the Grand Duke's apartments, which, 
though less magnificent, were, in my 
opinion, more agreeable than those on 
the first story. At the same time, I 
cannot but remember with gratitude 
the polite and engaging behaviour of 



5 3 

every one about that prince's person* 
The goodness of the master had warmed 
the hearts of all his attendants, and 
every one of them spoke with enthu- 
siasm of the noble pair they had the 
honour to serve. 

The dressing-room of the Grand 
Duchess Elizabeth, now reigning Em- 
press, was hung with rich Lyonese silk. 
Two fine Ionic columns of red and 
white Olonetz marble ornamented a 
ijiche, and sustained an entablature de- 
corated with &frtiqye busts. On each 
side this recess stood a statue of Carrara 
marble ; the one representing a woman 
under affliction supporting her head 
with her hands ; the other, a young 
girl playing with a dove. 

In the same room I remarked a table 
which was inlaid with " different speci- 
mens of the marbles of the country, 
and a clock representing Bacchus sit- 



59 

ting astride a tun, on the head of whkk 
the dial-plate was fixed. 

Contiguous to this chamber was a 
beautiful closet hung with looking- 
glasses. A recess, supported by two 
columns of French marble, contained 
the divan*, which, together with the 
rest of the furniture, was of uncut rose- 
coloured velvet, and had the appear- 
ance of being covered ever with fine 
lace. It is not easy to describe the 
pleasing effect of the whole closet and 
its furniture. A desk filled with books 
and a piano-forte made by Longman 
and Broderip shewed that more than 
one muse had taken up her residence 
here. 

The bed-chamber was singularly strik- 
ing. The compartments of the walls 

* A kind of sola formed of mat trasses piled 
^one upon another. 



6o 

were half hung with purple velvet and 
half with gold Stuff; they were con- 
nected together in a serpentine manner, 
and ran horizontally round the room. 
The bed was fitted up in the same style. 
The apartment contained several bronze 
and marble statues, and the whole had 
a magnificent effect without at all dis- 
tracting or fatiguing the eye. . (TI ie s P ot 
was, however, uninhabitable on account 
of its excessive dampness, and the Arch- 
Duchess had suffered considerably dur- 
ing the time she had occupied it. The 
wax-coloured paintings over the doors 
are entirely defaced. 

This bed-chamber opened into the 
saloon of antiques, which contained 
about fifty statues, several busts, sarco- 
phagi, and other ancient monuments* 
I shall only mention the principal. 

i. A fine colossal bust of Juno, two 
feet five inches high, placed upon a sar- 



6i 

tophagus ornamented with three bass* 
reliefs, and containing an inscription. 
The first represents the figure of a wo- 
man with a floating robe, holding some- 
thing in her hands, which are lifted up. 
Two masks lie at her feet. The same 
subject is repeated on the other side. 
The third bass-relief represents Bacchus 
crowned with bunches of grapes, with 
the mystic basket, in which a dos; is 
seated, placed near him : on the other 
side appears a serpent. The inscription 
runs thus : 

p. SCANTIUS PI. 

OLIMPUS 

FECIT. SIBI. V. A. LXX SINE CRIMINE. 

VIT^S ET S'CANTI45 ABELE CONLIBERT. 

OPTIMA JEDE3E. BENE MER1TJE *. 

* This may be read as follows : Publius Scant ivs 
Pius OJimpvs fecit siii> volventi annum lxx sine cri- 
mine vifte, ci Scant ia: Aurelia coiAibcrtte optima dc se 
bene merits* 



62 

$* A fine bust of a young Apollo 
with flowing locks. 

3. A very fine Silenus about three 
feet high, holding in one hand a cup, 
and in the other bunches of grapes. 

4. A triangular altar with bass-reliefs, 
one of which in particular is remark- 
able. It reprefents a man wearing a 
pointed crown. In one hand he holds 
a sword, in the other a human head* 
The other two represent a satyr with a 
cock and a basket of fruit, and a fe- 
male bacchanalian. 

5; A sarcophagus with goats heads 
and garlands of fruit, with two dead 
children lying upon a protuberant part. 
A swan is likewise represented on the 
point of taking its flight* The inscrip- 
tion is as follows : 



63 

D. iM. 
M. MUTIUS. Me L. AURILIUS 
V AGITATOR. 
FAC. CARAMANTINIC. 

VIXIT ANN. XXXV. 
AGITAVIT ANN, XII.* 

6. A round pedestal, which probably- 
supported a funeral urn. It is encircled 
with a very prominent bass-relief finely 
executed, and in high preservation. 
The subject is a wild-boar hunt. On 
one side is seen the animal, and at his 
feet a dying man ; behind him are two 
hunters in mantles : on the other side 
appear a naked youth in a helmet, and 
a dog near him j and behind him the 
figures of two men. Aulic Counsellor 

* It may be read in this manner: Diis Manwus. 
Marcus Muilus Marci Liltrius Aurdhts, Agitator 
lis Garamanthide, visit annes xxxv. agilavit 
anftoi xn. 



64 

Kohler takes the latter for Castor and 
Pollux ; or the whole for an allusion to 
the dead person, which seems the more 
natural of the two. The young man 
perhaps is represented, on one side, 
gaily setting out with two of his friends 
to the chase, and on the other, over- 
thrown and killed by a wild boar. The 
inscription, which begins with these 
words d. m. corneli . . . has been mis- 
laid among my papers : all I recollect is, 
that it contained no reference to a hunt. 

7. A very fine bust of Achilles, w r hich 
was procured from Greece ; it is three 
feet high, and wrought in Parian 
marble. 

8. A Bacchus three feet two inches 
in height, of exquisite workmanship. 
In one hand he holds a bunch of grapes, 
in the other a cup. His shoulders are 
covered with a goat skin and crowned 
with ivy. Upon the cippus, which 



6 5 

stands in the stead of a pedestal, we 
read the following words : 

D. B|r 

AN 'VI 5 TIJIi. 
TERSIPIDI. 

v. a. xx d. v; 

antistia. apate. 

soror. gemella. 

fecit pientissim^e. 

9. A muse in meditation leaning 
against a rock. This figure is three feet 
nine inches high: the drapery is ex- 
ceedingly well executed. 

10. A fine torso of Hercules, three 
feet two inches Ions;. 

n. A double bust of the Indian 
bearded Apollo and Ariadne. 

1 2. A graceful bust of Marcus Au- 
relius. 

Such are the pieces which particularly 
interest the antiquarian* 

VOL, III, E 



66 

The amateur of painting will also 
find ample gratification in this saloon, 
and will be peculiarly struck with eight 
large landscapes by Cbedrin, containing 
views of Pawlowsky, Gatschina, and 
Peterhoff ; and likewise with two ceil- 
ings painted by J. P. Scotij which repre- 
sent Cephalus and Procris, and Venus 
rising from the sea. 

The apartments of the Grand Duke 
(the present Emperor) were small, and 
less remarkable for the sumptuousness 
of their furniture, than for some origi- 
nal pictures of great value. Of these I 
shall only mention Achilles discovered 
by Ulysses among the women, the work 
N of Angelica Kauffmann ; a woman weep- 
ing over a dead body, with an angel 
at her side pointing to heaven, by 
Carlo Maratti ; a Juno and a Diana, by 
Pcrca. ' 

iese apartments are contiguous to a 



67 

fine bath, which Count Narischkin had 
fitted up with much taste for the Grand 
Duchess. The walls and ceiling are 
hung with muslin upon a rose-coloured 
ground, and the floor was overspread 
with white cloth. There was a foun- 
tain that played on turning a cock. A 
canopy was suspended over the bath, 
from whence sweet-scented waters dis- 
tilled at the pleasure of the bather. 
Other pipes introduced warm water* 
One of the walls was covered with a 
vast lookimr-^lass, and in the shade of 
a recess, a Turkish sofa invited to re- 
pose. 

This pretty cabinet communicated 
with a vapour-bath* I know not, how- 
ever, if the beautiful and delicate Grand 
Duchefs (a German by birth) was accus- 
tomed to this Russian usage ; for my 
own part, I think these kind of stoves 
detestable things, and I could never pre- 



68 

vail on myself to pass over the threshold 
of any of them. 

Besides his lodging rooms, the Grand 
Duke had several state apartments, and a 
superb hall divided in two by an arcade 
supported by Ionic columns of white 
marble: the hall was decorated with 
several valuable original pictures, among 
which was one painted by Reubens, re- 
presenting a fawn embraced by a female 
bacchanalian. At one end of the apart- 
ment, a second arcade is constructed 
upon four Ionic columns, between 
which stood two magnificent statues of 
a fawn and a bacchanalian, by Cava- 
ceppi. 

Through this hall we arrive at the 
throne or audience chamber of the 
Grand Duke, the walls of which were 
hung with purple velvet embroidered 
with silver. The prince gave his au- 
diences under a canopy, but not seated, 



6 9 

and the carpet on which he stood 
was not raised above the level of the 
floor. 

The second story of the palace was 
inhabited by the Grand Duchesses Mary 
and Catherine, with the Countefs de 
Liewen their governess. Their apart- 
ments were less superb than those which 
have been described, but were neverthe- 
less extremely elegant. 
& In the area stood another guard- 
' house, containing a company of the 
body guards. The report that the 
number of such guards about the palace 
was small, is destitute of all foundation, 
though it was generally believed, and 
has been every where propagated. The 
back parts of the edifice form a mere 
labyrinth of dark staircases and gloomy 
corridors, in which lamps are continu- 
ally burning day and night. For two 
or three weeks, I stood in need of a 



7 o 

guide to lead me through these intri- 
cate turnings and windings. 

Nothing could have been more detri- 
nental to health than a residence in 
1 this palace. In every part, the destruc- 
tive effects of humidity were to be ob- 
served ; and even in the apartment 
which contained the £reat historical 
pictures, I have seen ice an inch thick 
in each corner, from the roof to the 
floor, notwithstanding the. continual 
fires that were kept up in the two chim- 
neys. The wainscotting of the Empe- 
ror and Empress's apartments had in 
some degree counteracted the bad effects 
of cold and moisture; but all who oc- 
cupied the other rooms of the palace 
were materially affected in their health. 
The palace was likewise extremely in- 
convenient to all who had business to 
transact therein. It was continually ne- 
cessary to run across the peristyle, along 






7 1 

corridors exposed to the air, or over 
the open court. Few even of the higher 
orders were allowed to alight at the 
grand staircase : almost every person was 
obliged to stop at a low door, and wan- 
der up and down the back staircases, till 
they found the place they were in quest of. 
/""The Emperor, however, was so cap- 
tivated with this production of his own 
fancy, that the most delicate censure 
irritated as much as the coarsest pane- 
gyric pleased him. One day he met an 
elderly lady on the staircase: — " These 
stairs," said she, " have been represent- 
ed to me as inconvenient ; but I find 
they are extremely pleasant." His Ma- 
jesty was so delighted with this praise, 
that he kissed the old lady. All the 
courtiers knew how to turn this dispo- 
sition to their own advantage. Their 
praises never ceased; and I am well in- 
formed, that when every expression of 



7* 

praise, exclamation, and admiration, were 
exhausted, some have fallen upon their 
knees before the bronze statues, and 
worshipped them in silent extacy. 

Had I obeyed the repeated injunctions 
of the Emperor to omit no trifle in my 
description, I should have filled a large 
volume, and have wearied both the 
reader and myself. Some weeks before 
his death, I presented his Majesty with 
a specimen of my labours; of which he 
was pleased to express his satisfaction. 

There are many palaces in the world 
that contain a greater number of scarce 
and valuable articles, but not one which 
has been erected, furnished, and inhabit- 
ed within so short a period as that of 
•Michailoff, which was completed in less 
than four years. A magnificent service of 
gold, and another of china, ornamented 
with views of the palace, were not 
finished. 



s 



73 

* A few weeks after the Emperor's* 
death, all the valuable articles that were 
moveable, were removed from this pa- 
lace, and placed in others, to preserve 
them from the effects of humidity. At 
present it is uninhabited, and resembles 
a mausoleum. 



On the i ith of March, at one o'clock, 
and consequently about twelve hours 
before his death, I saw the Emperor 
Paul for the last time. I met him on 
the state staircase close to the statue of 
Cleopatra. He stopped, as usual, and 
spoke to me. The subject of our con- 
versation was the statue before us. He 
called it a fine copy; examined the dif- 
ferent kinds of marble that composed 
the pedestal, and asked me the names of 
-them: then touching upon the history 



74 

of the Egyptian Queen, he expressed 
his admiration of her heroic death. He 
seemed by a smile to approve of a re- 
mark I made, that she would not have 
destroyed herself had Augustus yielded 
to the force of her charms. He then 
asked me if my description of the pa- 
lace was in much forwardness. I replied, 
that it was almost finished; and he 
left me after having observed, with 
great condescension, that he was happy 
to hear it. 

My eyes followed him as he ascended 
the steps : when he arrived at the top, 
he turned towards the place where I -was 
standing; neither of us then entertained 
the least suspicion that we had seen each 
other for the last time. This interview 
made a strong impression upon my 
mind, and I have more than once since 
the Emperor's death, indulged a me- 
lancholy contemplation of the statue of 
Cleopatra. * 



is. 

On the 1 2th of March, early in the 
morning, the accession of the young 
Emperor to the throne was announced. 
By eight o'clock the principal nobility 
had already paid him their homage in 
the chapel of the Winter Palace. The 
people gave themselves up to joy, and 
to the free indulgence of those hopes, 
which the well known merits of the 
young Monarch so naturally inspired. 

The first measures adopted by Alex- 
ander, his proclamation, the first orders 
he issued, all tended to encourage and 
confirm the confidence with which his 
subjects beheld him ascend the throne 
of his forefathers. He solemnly pro- 
mised to tread in the steps of Cathe- 
rine II. of glorious memory; he allowed 
every one to dress according to his' own 
fancy; exonerated the inhabitants of the 
capital from the troublesome duty of 
alighting from their carriages at theap- 



7 6 

proach of any of the Imperial "family $ 
dismissed the Court- Advocate, who was 
universally and justly detested; sup- 
pressed the Secret Inquisition, that had 
become the scourge of the country; re<- 
stored to the Senate its former autho- 
rity y and set at liberty the state prison- 
ers in the fortress. -f What a spectacle to 
see these unfortunate people released 
from captivity, mute with surprise at 
their delivery, taking their happiness 
for a dream, and with trembling steps 
seeking their respective homes ! 

I saw an old Colonel of the Cossacks 
and his son brought from the fortress to 
Count de Pahlen's apartments. The 
story of this generous youth is extreme- 
ly interesting. His father had been drag- 
ged, for I know not what offence, from 
Tscherkask to Petersburg, and there 
closely imprisoned. Soon afterwards 
his son arrived, a handsome and brave 



77 

young man, who had obtained in the 
refen of Catherine II. the cross of St. 
George, and that of Wolodimer. For 
a. long while he exerted himself to pro- 
cure his father's enlargement by solici- 
tations and petitions; but perceiving no 
hopes of success, he requested, as a par- 
ticular favour, to be allowed to share 
his captivity and misfortunes. This 
•was in part granted him.; he was com- 
mitted a prisoner to the fortress ; but 
was not permitted to see his father,; 
nor was the unfortunate old man even 
informed that his son was so near him. 

r- 

On a sudden the prison bolts were 
drawn, *the doors were opened, his son 
rushed into his arms; and he not only 
learnt that he was at liberty, but at the 
same time was informed of the noble sa- 
crifice which filial piety had offered. He 
alone can decide which information gave 
Irim most delight. I saw him several 



7§ 

mornings together in Count de Pahlen's 
audience chamber ; he still wore his long 
\ beard, reaching down to his waist. \He 
J commonly sat in the recess of a win- 
I dow, with down-cast eyes, and with- 
out paying the kast attention to the 
bustle of the surrounding scene.X His 
son, whose noble countenance shone 
more resplendent from the conscious* 
ness of his own heroism, than did his 
breast decorated by the two orders 
which he wore, walked about the room 
and conversed with his acquaintances. 

The audience-chamber was indeed a 
/rich field of observation to a looker-on 
at all conversant with the human heart ; 
and though I had no particular business 
there, I continued to pass several hours 
on the spot every morning; nor did I 
ever leave the groups that surrounded 
me, without having added to my stock 
or this species of knowledge. By way 



79 

of contrast to the affecting scene I have 
just related, I shall give the reader an 
anecdote of a livelier cast: It happened, 
I think, the day after the Emperor's 
death. The room was extremely full; 
there were probably some hundreds pre- 
sent: I was warming myself at a stove, 
when suddenly there was a OTeat mur- 
mur, and the company, one after ano- 
ther, ail rushed to the windows, and 
kept looking into the street as if some- • 
thing very wonderful had happened. 
Curiosity, at length, drew me from the 
stove; it was with difficulty I could 
share* the interesting spectacle. At 
length I got through the crowd, and 
what was the mighty affair ? Why truly 
the jirst round hat that had passed by^ 
This round hat appeared to make more 
: impression upon the minds of the com- 
pany, than even the liberation of the 
ate prisoners had done: nothing was 



8o 

io be seen but chearful laughing coun- 
tenances. Such creatures are men ! 

I have ion ^wished to inform the read- 
er, that the first days of the reign of Alex* 
ander the Clement, afforded me the most 
delicious enjoyments. In the course of 
<this narrative, I have often been drawn 
into many heart-rending recollections. I 
now come to one that overwhelms me 
with delight* The Senate, by com- 
mand of the young Monarch, printed 
and distributed three separate lists of the 
names of the exiles recalled from Sibe- 
ria. No sooner had 1 heard of this, 
than I dispatched my servant to pro- 
cure a copy. My eye ran over it in 
haste, till dimmed with tears of joy, it 
•fell upon the name of Sokoloff. Yes! 
he obtained his liberty.; and, at the 
moment in which I am writing this, is 
restored to his wife and children! May 
he, like me, have found them all well ! 



u 

and of his long and painful dream, may 
nothing remain but the recollection of 
the companion of his misfortune, and 
the sentiment of friendship which united 
us under our common afflictions. 

M. de KiniakofF and his brothers, M. 
Beecher of Moscow, and many more 
of my acquaintances, were included in 
the same list. The most remarkable 

case of all was that of IvL S , a 

clergyman. He had fallen into the in- 
fernal snares of M. Tumanski,* the atro- 
cious Censor of Riga. Although M. 

S : probably intends to publish his 

story, I think myself warranted to re- 



* The reader must not confound his name with 
that of a distant relation of his, M. Tumanski, 
Counsellor of State, and head of the censorship 
at Petersburg, a person who never caused any one 
to be unhappy, and who has the reputation of be- 
ing a well informed polite man* 

\ OJ , III* F 



82 

late it to the reader, as I have the par- 
ticulars from very good authority. 

M. S- , minister of a parish in 

the neighbourhood of Dopart, had col- 
lected a small library for the use of his 
fiock. Tumanski having been made 
Counsellor of the Province, and being 
desirous of giving proofs of his vigilance 

^nd zeal, applied to M. S for a 

catalogue of his books. The pastor, in- 
timidated by the complexion of the times, re- 
plied, that he had discontinued the read- 
ing society, and such was in fact his in- 
tention, it was, however, necessary to 
collect the various books that were in 
circulation, which, within a few, he had 
been able to effect. Among that num- 
ber was a small volume written by Au- 
gustus Lafontaine, and entitled The Pow- 
wer of Love. Not recollecting to whom 
he had lent the book, and still unwil- 
ling to lose it, he had recourse to the 



85 

usual way of advertisement, and Insert- 
ed in the Dopart Gazette a request, that 
the person who had this volume in his 
possession, which made part of the cir- 
culating library, would have * the good- 
ness to return it. 

The advertisement unhappily fell into 
the hands of M. Tumanski. It is, how- 
ever, confidently asserted, that the in- 
tentions of that wretch were less inimi- 
cal to M. S , than to M. de Nagei, 

the worthy Governor of Livonia, to 
whom he bore a secret enmity, on ac- 
count of some pretended offence. He 
reported the business to his friend 
and patron, Obuljaninoff, with the ad- 
dition of many aggravating circum- 
stances. The latter communicated it to 
the Emperor, with further aggrava- 
tions. In a word, the clergyman was 
accused of having continued his circu- 
lating library in spite of the warning 



8 4 

given by the Censor; and of endeavour- 
ing to propagate dangerous principles 
among his readers, by furnishing them 
with prohibited Jacobinical books, while 
in fact no catalogue of forbidden books 
at all existed. This conduct was re- 
presented to the Prince in such a false 
and odious point of view, that he gave 
orders that the minister should be im- 
mediately arrested and brought to Pe- 
tersburg ; M. Tumanski having previ- 
ously surrounded his house with a de- 
tachment of soldiers, and caused all his 
books to be publicly burned. 

When Tumanski set out to execute 
his agreeable commission, the whole 
city of Riga interceded in behalf of. this 
unfortunate family, and conjured him 
to do every thing in his power to save 
them from ruin. He promised this ; 
but, as it maybewell supposed, took care 
not to keep his word. In the dead of 



85 

the night, the troops under the com* 
mand of the noble Censor beset the 
parsonage-house, while the peaceful in- 
habitants were fast asleep. What must 
their surprise have been on waking? 
every avenue was stopped up, an inven- 
tory was instantly taken of the good 
man's papers, and seals put upon them ; 
all the books, the bible not excepted, were 
piled in a heap and committed to the 
flames. The unhappy minister himself 
was hurried into a kibick, and conducted 
by an officer of the police to Petersburg. 
Towards day-break, when he had re- 
covered a little from his first astonish- 
ment, he requested his guard to allow 
him to write a few lines to his wife. 
The perfidious man pretended to yield 
to his entreaties, and even undertook 
to put the letter into the post-office ; he 
detained it, however, and on his arrival 
in the capital, delivered it into the hands 



86 

of the Court-Advocate, The letter con- 
tained, besides some very natural com- 
plaints, a request, that his wife would 
quiet the. minds of his parishioners till his 
return ; from which it was inferred, that 
he had already incited the peasants to re- 
volt, and that they only waited the re- 
turn of their ringleader to rise up in 
arms. Others say, he had requested 
his wife to burn some letters of a friend 
of his, with whom he had formerly 
corresponded, and which contained some 
.remarks upon the French revolution j 
and that a chasseur had really been sent 
to arrest this friend, who, very happily 
for himself, had been dead several years. 
Whatever it might have been, the 
whole matter was represented in such 
black colours by the Court- Advocate, 
that the Prince instantly ordered the 
tribunal to condemn M. S to cor- 
poral punishment, and afterwards to 



87 

be sent to the mines of Siberia, The 
judges were under no small embarrass- 
ment in consequence of this injunction. 
The sentence, which in the natural or- 
der of things ought to result from ex- 
amination and evidence, was prescribed 
to them before-hand, and they felt 
themselves reduced to the situation of 
executive agents. The President ven- 
tured to remonstrate to the Court-Advo- 
cate on this point, who coldly replied, 
that the Judges might incur what ha- 
zard they pleased ; but that for his part, 
he knew the will of the Emperor. 

The unfortunate minister, then in 
the fortress, was one morning ordered 
instantly to put on his robes, and ac- 
company M. de Marakoff to the public 
tribunal, in order to hear his sentence 
pronounced. 

Full of hope, and the more so, as he 
had been directed to appear in his s.Kcr 



S8 

dotal habit, lie set out to meet his fate* 
When he arrived in court he was placed 
with his back against the wall, and the 
Secretary began to read his sentence. 
When the Secretary came to these words, 

The minister S shall be deprived 

of his benefice, stripped of his gown 
and .band, receive twenty strokes of the 
knout, and be sent in irons to the mines 
of Nertschinsk, to work there for life," 
the unhappy man seemed lost in despair; 
and after a convulsive motion of the 
head, he fell flat upon the ground. 
Proper assistance being afforded him, 
he recovered the use of his senses, and 
falling upon his knees, he implored the 
]udg;es to condescend to hear him. 

" This is not the place," replied 
the Court-Advocate. " Where then?" 
cried the wretched man, in a resolute 
tone of voice, " Where? there! above ', 
in heaven I" 



8g 

He was now dragged to the common 
prison. All Petersburg took an interest 
in his fate; every one interceded in his 
behalf; even the Russian clergy, to their 
great honour, among the rest. Count 
de Palilen won the hearts of the public 
by his generous exertions to save him. 
But every effort was in vain! Obuljani- 
noff had laid too fast hold on his victim* 

S was led to the place where the 

punishment of the knout is administer- 
ed ; and when he had proceeded half- 
way there, he was ordered back to re- 
ceive the sacrament at the hands of M. 
Reinbolt. After this he set out again 
to the place of torment. 

Already were his hands tied to the 

/ posts, already were his shoulders bared 

to undergo the horrid punishment, 

when an officer arrived, and having 

whispered a word in the executioner's 

r, the latter respectfully replied, sluschu, 



(I understand you) and then brandished 
the knout twenty different times over 
the prisoner, without touching his body, 
very adroitly applying every stroke upon 
his clothes only. Hence it is manifest, 
that some humane personage, who had 
not been able to screen this innocent 
man from ignominy, had at least ex- 
erted his authority so far as to prevent 
his. suffering the horrid torture to which 
he had been condemned. 

M. S— was led back to prison. 

Count de Pahlen, under various pre- 
tences, retarded his departure for the 
mines; and had several sharp alterca- 
tions with the Court- Advocate on the 
subject. The Emperor, however, stre- 
nously insisting that the sentence should 
be duly executed, the Count was at 
length obliged to give way, and the un- 
fortunate M. S— dragged his fetters, 

step by step, as far as Nertschinsk. His 



9 1 

wife, who was determined to share his 
fate, could not obtain permission to ac- 
company him. 

This unfortunate man is now free. 
When I left Petersburg he was daily ex- 
pected there ; and doubtless the young 
Emperor will restore him to honour 
and fortune. 

/--Some days after the death of Paul I. 
rince S-aboff gave a splendid tavern- 
dinner to a hundred of his friends, at 
twenty-five rubles a-head, exclusive of 
wine. The company drank between 
thirty and forty dozen of champaign, at 
five rubles a bottle. I should not have 
mentioned this princely feast, but for the 
purpose of recording a princely act. In 
the height of their jollity, the company 
recollected the case of the unhappy M. 
S , and immediately opened a sub- 
scription in Iiis favour, which, it is said, 
produced him ten thousand rubles. 



02 

It is the opinion of many lawyers, 
that the order intimated to the court 
of justice, to inflict corporal punish- 
ment on M. S , did not oblige the 

judges to condem him to the knout, the 
most severe of all punishments. 

The reader will not be displeased to 
learn, that M. Tumanski, who had been 
for so many years the scourge of Riga, 
has ended his career in the most wretch- 
ed manner. Enraged at the contempt 
with which he \vas generally treated, he 
at last meditated the ruin of the whole 
town ; and with that view denounced 
the inhabitants to the Emperor as ar- 
rant Jacobins, sending a long list of 
names, among which were those of the 
principal people, and men in office, with 
the venerable Governor M. de Nagel at 
their head. - 
.^The upright and clear-sighted Mo- 
narch having read this libel, declared, 



93 . 

with too much benevolence perhaps, 
that Tumanski was out of his senses, 
and immediately dismissed him from 
his employment^ On my return through 
Riga, in the month of June last, he was 
living there, poor and despised, on the 
bounty of the very inhabitants whom 
he had devoted to ruin. In this man- 
ner has leaden-heeled Justice, * as the 
poet calls her, overtaken the guilty, and 
condemned him to condign punishment ; 
a punishment indeed much too gentle, 
w r hen compared with the innumerable 
afflictions which his administration had 
brought upon so many unfortunate 
people. 

Madame Chevalier and her husband, 
who had figured, though in another 
way, in the late reign, likewise experi- 
enced the clemency of the young Mo- 
narch, who contented himself with mere- 
ly sending them out of the country. M. 



94 

Chevalier, who had acted a part no less 
public than dishonourable, and who has 
since endeavoured, through the medium 
of the French newspapers, to persuade 
the world of his innocence, challenges 
a sciutiny of his conduct, and without 
touching on his private life, I shall en- 
deavour to shew in what manner he and 
his wife conducted themselves to the 
world. 

Madame Chevalier was bom at Lyons ; 
her father, who was a dancing-master, 
died youngs and left his family in indi- 
gent circumstances. M. Chevalier be- 
-came acquainted with her in this situa- 
tion, and married her. Ke is himself 
one of the most arrogant of men, and 
the worst ballet-master that ever exist- 
ed, although he has often boasted of 
having danced a pas de cinq at the 
Opera-house, with Vestris, Gardel, &c. 
One day, as he was relating this gasco- 



95 

hade, a man of wit who had known 
him at Paris, where he was engaged as 
a mere figurante, observed aloud ; " I 
think M. Chevalier very modest; he 
speaks of a pas de cinq only, whereas I 
.have seen him dance a pas ae seize"- — 
I know not if he was in fact a figurante ; 
some say he was second .ballet-muster at 
the Italian theatre ; this, however, is of 
•no .consequence. But I can affirm with 
great truth, that his ballets have ever 
appeared. to me to be the most wretched 
I have ever seen. He always strove to 
hide the penury of his genius by the in- 
troduction of grand marches, and the 
: splendid decorations which Gonzaza, a 
very .eminent artist, afforded him ; as 
well as with the assistance of the most 
superb dresses. His ballets were ex- 
tremely expensive, though they were 
seldom repeated more than twice. He 
was likewise indulged with the privi- 



g6 

lege, that none of his decorations, noi 
any article of his wardrobe, should ever 
be used except in his own ballets. The 
German company has often felt the in- 
convenience of this privilege ; for when- 
ever we had occasion for a foreign dress, 
and sent for it to the keeper of the 
wardrobe, the answer constantly re- 
turned us was, that the dresses belonged 
to 3VL Chevalier. I must^ however, con- 
fess, that the hatred the French theatre 
bore the German one, has often sug- 
gested this pretext in order to cover a 
refusal. One Sunday, I remember, I 
found myself under the necessity of 
changing the piece I intended to have 
given (which was Octavia) for another, 
a little before the curtain drew up, be- 
cause I could not obtain a few miserable 
dresses for the Roman soldiers, although 
my request had been backed by a note 
from the great Marshal of the Court, 



97 

I mention this as one of the thousand 
unpleasant circumstances which I had 
to encounter in the management of the 
theatre. 

I now return to M. Chevalier. It is 
well known that he left Hamburg, and 
arrived, with his wife, at Petersburg, 
where, by means of her personal charms, 

ffor she is very handsome, she soon ac- 
quired connections of the most distin- 
guished kind. To these connections her 
husband owed his office of assessor, and 
the victory he gained over old Le Picfr 
a ballet-master of distinguished merit. 
r-sHad he remained satisfied with this 

Advantage, had he continued to reign 
within his own sphere, and had not 
made such display of his foolish self-love, 
the public would have been content 
with laughing at him, and I should not 
have mentioned his name. In spite of his 
protestations of innocence and probity ? 

VOL. III. G 



9 8 

it is clearly proved, that he has bartered 
his real or pretended influence for im- 
mense sums of money. I am acquainted 
with several instances of this sort. I am 
averse to expose any person, but in case 
of necessity i I can prove what I advance ; 
and I think it incumbent on me to make 
such declaration, lest I should be sup- 
posed to have attacked the reputation 
of an honest man wantonly, or merely 
upon report. 

j* The most shocking transaction of this 
"kind, and which is notorious all over 
Petersburg, is the very one M. Cheva- 
lier asserts, in the Journal de Paris, to be 
a mere fabrication. The fact is, that he 
has had art enough to take advantage 
of an accessary incident which had been 
erroneously stated, in order to break 
out into a general complaint of calumny 
and injustice. I am not now speaking 
of a divorce y respecting which, M. Che- 



99 

Valier may, if he pleases, call heaven and 
earth to attest his innocence, but of a 
fraudulent and atrocious act, and there- 
fore the particulars shall be related. 

Madame de • — , of one of the first 

families in the Russian empire, bequeath- 
her fortune, which consisted of thirteen 
thousand peasants, to the amiable Count 
de R — . She had taken care to make 
previous arrangements with her hus- 
band's family, and consequently dispos- 
ed of her dowry only. Catherine had 
confirmed the will ; notwithstanding 
which, its validity was contested in the 
reign of Paul I, and annulled by an or- 
der of the Cabinet. 

M. , upon the strength of this 

case, was desirous of attaining similar 
ends, and for which purpose he availed 
himself of the assistance of a PieJmon- 
tese (an honest man, and known as 
such), whose name I do not recollect. 



and commissioned him to make appli- 
cation to M. Chevalier. A ne^ociation 
was entered upon accordingly, and a 
magnificent necklace was promised to 
Madame Chevalier, and a sum of money 
to her husband, which is said to be so 
great, that for fear of committing a mis- 
take, I shall not mention it. The neck- 
lace was deposited by way of earnest, 
and likewise one-half the stipulated sum. 
The affair was proposed to the Emperor, 
■who, considering it unjust, set his face 
against it, and refused his consent. The 
ill success of the application was indus- 
triously concealed from the Piedemon- 
tese ; however, he at last obt? v ined in- 
formation of it, and having demanded 
the restitution of the presents, he was 
answered with sarcasms, and menaced 
with mischief. 

Driven quite to desperation, he ap- 
plied to Madame de Bonvel, a French 



lOi 

lady, whose mysterious appearance at 
Petersburg was an enigma to every one, 
and who, having gained the protection 
of several great people, was tolerated by 
the Emperor, not only in the capital, 
but even at Gatschina. She was taken, 
with probability enough, for an agent 
of the French Government. 

This woman instantly espoused the 
cause of the Piedemontese, and related 
his story to Count Rostopschen, minis- 
ter of state, who being at that time at 
enmity with Madame Chevalier^s friend^ 
laid the whole transaction before the 
Emperor, Some say his Majesty was 
informed of the affair by an intercepted 
letter ; however that may be, it is cer- 
tain the Emperor received the informa- 
tion through Count Rostopschen. 

The Monarch, who was naturally 
just 5 was thrown into a violent passion, 
and threatened to make a terrible ex- 



IC2 

ample of the Chevalier. The only step 
they had now to take, was to deny the 
fact. " Is it our fault," said they, " if 
offers of money are made us ? It is 
enough that we never received any." At 
the same time they loudly demanded 
that the calumniator should suffer ex- 
emplary punishment. The wretched 
Piedmontese was arrested by 1 order of 
the expeditious Court-advocate, and, all 
of a sudden, he was discovered to be a 
violent jacobin, though he had been 
hitherto well known as a zealous royalist. 
He received the knout, had his nostrils 
split, and was sent to the mines of Si- 
beria. This anecdote I have received 
from an impartial person of strict vera* 
city, who had it from the first source. 
All Petersburg is well acquainted with 
the atrocious arts with which the jus- 
tice of the Monarch had been in so 
monstrous a manner surprised and im- 



posed upon. I may possibly be mistaken 
in some trifling particulars, but the 
story itself is strictly true. Let M. Che- 
valier explain^ if he can, how he has 
been able, since that time, to enjoy one 
hour of undisturbed repose ! 

The luxury he displayed in his house 
was disgusting in the highest degree. 
His rooms vied in splendour with those 
of the palace of MichaeloIF. One of them 
was hung with rose-colour silk, cover- 
ed with fine flowered muslin, and seem- 
ed to be the very temple of voluptuous- 
ness. The family had a salary of more 
than thirteen thousand rubles, includ- 
ing Monsieur Augustus, the lady's bro- 
ther, a very indifferent dancer. Besides 
this salary, the brother and sister had 
benefit nights, which produced upwards 
of twenty thousand rubles ; for every 
one was eager to recommend them- 
selves to this powerful family. I have 



104 

known tradesmen who have sent twen- 
ty-five rubles for seats, the usual price 
of which was one ruble and a half, and 
to whom their money had been returned 
with the most scornful disdain. — Every 
person who was already well received 
at Court, every one who wished to con- 
tinue so, made sacrifices on these occa- 
sions frequently beyond their means, 
fully persuaded, that the idols to whom, 
they thus bowed, might one day reim- 
burse them, and that a sum which did 
not answer their expectations never 
escaped either their notice or their ven- 



geance. 



Madame Chevalier, indeed, had no 
occasion to use solicitations to- fill the 
theatre on her benefit night. Her house 
was beset for places in the first boxes, 
and every one shewed their attachment 
by paying for them in coin. But Mon- 
sieur Augustus was often obliged to 



»5;: 

take measures, of which no man of ho- 
nour could avail himself. He wrote 
notes, or rather (as he could not write, 
a circumstance I learnt from bcular de- 
monstration) had them written, to the 
rich and great, to force tickets u'poa 
them. 

f; By such and a thousand other well- 
known practices, the family of the Che- 
valiers, it may be easily supposed^ 
amassed great wealth. Lest I should be 
accused of exaggeration, I shall not ven- 
ture to mention the value of the lady*s 
jewels, nor the sums which her husband 
had, at different times, sent out of the 
country. M. L**o, the banker, who 
transacted his business, can give further 
information on this head ; and, in fact, 
the whole tow r n expected to see him 
compelled to make such declaration be- 
fore the lady could have obtained per- 
mission to quit the country. The law 



io6 

obliges foreigners to pay the Crown one- 
tenth part of the property they take out 
of the country, whatever the amount 
may be ; and in the present case the de- , 
falcation might perhaps have amounted 
to some hundred thousand rubles. 
The generosity and clemency of the 
young Monarch, however, overlooked 
this circumstance, It is likewise well 
known that he ordered Count de PahX 
len to inform Madame Chevalier, in a! 
very polite letter, that she had leave to I 
depart; and she took care not to stay 
to hear the intimation repeated. 
^ The late Emperor, a few weeks be- 
fore this event, had charged M. Cheva- 
lier with the honourable commission of 
engaging a party of comedians at Paris. 
For this purpose he had received up- 
wards of twenty thousand rubles in 
money, and bills of exchange for as 
much more. During his whole journey, 



toy 

he rendered himself remarkable by his 
insolence and rudeness ; and the post- 
masters at the different stages still re- 
member his insolent behaviour : the 
newspapers also recorded, that M. Che- 
valier, Counsellor of the College, and 
Knight of the Order of Malta, passed 
through such and such a town, &c. &c. 
I know not, indeed, whether he had the 
effrontery to assume these titles, but it 
would not have been at all unlike him* 
It is owing to her husband, perhaps, 
that Madame Chevalier has acquired the 
reputation of being avaricious, which so 
ill accords with the softness and ame- 
nity of her personal appearance. Of 
her avarice many instances are never- 
theless reported. The most shocking 
of all of them is the manner in which 
she has lately treated her aged mother, 
who lives at Lyons in the greatest indi- 
gence. The poor helpless woman wrote 



I0§ 

several letters to her in order to solicit 
relief, but she could never obtain any 
answer. At last, a stranger arrived at 
Petersburg, who, having been eye-wit- 
ness to her distress, had promised to re- 
present her situation to her daughter^ 
| He called several times on Madame Che- 
valier, but was never admitted to her 
presence^. Being, however, in no want 
of her interest, he grew impatient, and 
at last sent the ladv word that he had 

4 

a message to deliver from her mother, 
and that if she wished to be informed 
of it, she must have the goodness to 
send some one to him. She sent — but 
whom ?— a servant ! The stranger, pro- 
voked and ashamed at this unworthy 
conduct, refused to explain himself to a 
valet. Monsieur Augustus was then 
dispatched as Plenipotentiary from his 
sister. The stranger drew the most af- 
fecting picture of his mother's distress,, 



log 

and Madame Chevalier sent him t%w\ 
hundred rubles^ in bank notes ^ which he 
was, at his discretion, to supply her 
parent with. Two hundred rubles ! 
The fiftieth part of what she has often 
received for a single box at her benefit ! 
Madame Chevalier, who with a word 
could have caused her aged mother to 
have been brought in triumph to Peters- 
burg, and supported there in ease and 
abundance ; who reckoned her fortune 
by hundred thousands of rubles, sent 
her indigent parent two hundred rubles. 
For the sake of this ladyi I sincerely 
hope she may be able to refute this 
anecdote ; but hitherto, I am sorry to 
say, I have not had the least reason to 
doubt its truth, 

Madame Chevalier has been hand- 
some, and may still be considered so, 
though she is more than thirty, and is 
grown rather en bon point. She is a 



• 



no 






charming singer, and as an actress pecu- 
liarly happy in artless and comic parts. 
Her smiling looks captivate the audi- 
ence the moment she appears on the 
stage, and secures their approbation of 
her performance. She has sometimes 
ventured to appear in tragedy; but, in 
my opinion, she is in that line below 
mediocrity* In the part of Iphigenia, 
in which she so much delighted the Em- 
peror, the actress was never, for one 
single moment, forgotten in the daugh- 
ter of Agamemnon ; it was still Ma- 
dame Chevalier that figured on the 
boards; though, according to a copy of 
verses which were handed about Peters- 
burg, Racine w r as placed at her feet; 
and the Muses and the Graces, in com- 
parison with her, were represented as 
mere barrow-women. 
jj< How superior to this lady is Madame 
de Valville, the first tragic actress on the 



II* 

Petersburg stage! Her person is agree- 
able, her declamation and action per- 
fect. Nor is she a great actress only; 
she is likewise an amiable and virtuous 
woman; and the dignity with which 
she endured the many insults to which 
she was continually exposed, entitles her 
to the highest veneration. She is at the 
same time, the most tender of mothers, 
the best of wives, and the sincerest of 
friends. I entreat her pardon for this 
eiogium, and beg she will impute it to 
a zeal, which at this moment triumphs 
over the fear of raising a blush on her 
cheek ; on that cheek which has not yet 
forgot to blush i 

Madame Chevalier was roused from 
her splendid dream, in a manner not 
the most agreeable to her. Two officers 
entered her house in the dead of the 
night, and insisted on speaking with 
her immediately. The saucy chamber- 



112 

maid, who had been long accustomed 
to see her mistress treated like a god- 
dess, and to consider herself as a person 
of some importance, would fain have 
dismissed them with rudeness. The of- 
ficers, however, despising her threats 
and outcries, rushed into Madame Che- 
valier's room, and appeared without 
any ceremony at her bedside. She start- 
ed from her slumbers, and assured them 
her husband was at Paris ! " It is not 
for him. Madam, we are looking," was 
their reply. Having learnt, in a few 
words, the events which had taken 
place, she was obliged to rise that very 
moment, and to listen to some railleries, 
not of the most delicate nature. 

I shall not enlarge upon the business 
of these officers, their visit was short, 
nor w^as Monsieur Ausristus at all dis- 
turbed by them. What the lady felt 
during the rest of the night, and her 



IX 3 

alarming prospect of the future, have 
perhaps, in some degree, avenged the 
multitude whom she had made unhap- 
py, and the innocent whom she had 
ruined. Yet, in fact, she had nothing 
to dread. The delicacy of the youn^r 

4 J O 

Monarch generously-spared her. To con- 
siderations of a respectable nature she 
was indebted for that, which she could 
neither have ventured to hope, or to 
solicit: she was allowed to leave Peters- 
burg without any kind of molestation. 
I saw her at Koningsberg and at Berlin, 
more brilliant and more lively than 
ever; and no' sensations except those of 
mhul 9 appeared to give her the least un- 
easiness. 

I dout not but that Monsieur Cheva- 
lier, with his accustomed impudence, will 
^venture to deny the facts I have stated, 
the greater part of which relate chiefly 
to himself. He may endeavour to bring 

VOJL. III. H 



M4 

my veracity and impartiality into ques- 
tion ; but I here solemnly declare, that I 
have personally no subject of complaint 
either against him or his wife, and that 
\ pnly partake of the general indignation 
q£ the public, I further declare, that I 
Cpyld have brought forward four times 
a? many instances as I have given, had 
I been inclined to give ear to common 
report 5 and that I have designedly made 
choice of such as have been communis 
cated to me by eye-witnesses of unex- 
ceptionable veracity. I have dispassion- 
ately administered thepunishment of that 
notoriety, which sooner or later brands 
£he- forehead of the successful miscreant* 
Bat enough has already been said on 
the subject of these people. 

The death of the Emperor again 
tipeped to me a happy prospect of re- 
turning to my own country; and as 
soon as I could venture to call the at- 



f ention of the young Monarch from the 
important concerns of the empire, to a 
subject of such small moment as my 
own private affairs, I took an opportu- 
nity of soliciting my discharge* On 
the 30th of March I presented a memo* 
rial to that effect, to Prince Suboff, the 
Emperor's Adjutant General. The 2d 
of April I received, through his hands, 
the flattering answer, that his Majesty 
wished me to continue in his service. 
Such distinguished goodness must na- 
turally have rendered the resolution of 
persisting in my resignation extremely- 
painful to me. Impressed with the 
wannest gratitude, I therefore declared,, 
that I should be happy to remain in the 
service of a Prince so justly beloved ; 
but that I was no longer able to sut>er < 
intend the German playhouse in its pre- 
sent situation ; that if it pleased the Em- 
peror to allow some reforms to take 



i*6 

place, to render it really, and not nomi- 
nally a court-theatre, and placed in every 
respect upon a level with the French 
company, I would with pleasure exert 
all my efforts to render it worthy of his 
Majesty's approbation. 

I received an order in consequence 
to draw up a memorial, in which I 
was directed to point out the means of 
reforming the German theatre. I in- 
stantly obeyed, and my plan, which it 
has pleased an ignorant and malevolent 
correspondent of the Hamburgh Gazette 
to call gigantic, was nevertheless calcu- 
lated according; to the rules of the 
strictest economy. 

While the French theatre cost up- 
wards of one hundred thousand rubles 
a year in salaries only, I undertook to 
support a company, that should rival it 
in every respect, for sixty thousand. It 
seems that the author of this paragraph 



ii 7 

is no friend to the Germans, or he 
would not have termed gigantic a sum 
I had asked for the whole support of 
the playhouse, which amounted but to 
little more than one half of the mere 
salaries of the other theatre. 

The Emperor commissioned the Court 
Marshal to examine my plan, and the 
latter approved of it. 

" What will the German theatre cost 
according to this estimate ?" said the 
Emperor. 

" Sixty thousand rubles a year/ ' 

" And what has it hitherto cost?" 

u Nothing." 

This answer must naturally have as- 
tonished the Emperor. It was just 
however in one point of view. By dint 
of zeal, intense application, and unre- 
mitting efforts, I had made the winter 
receipts amount to thirty-two thousand 
rubles; and with this money I had been 



nS 

'able to defray every contingent cxpence: 
but the Marshal did not recollect, that 
during seven weeks of Lent the house 
would produce nothing, and during the 
summer months not much; that the 
theatre besides stood in need of great 
repairs and improvements. The .Mo- 
narch himself could not be expected to 
enter into such particulars; and the 
more so, as the memorial did not spe- 
cify any. It is therefore not at all sur- 
prising that he should have considered 
-the sum too great. 

I was too well acquainted with the 
disposition of the court in general to- 
wards the German theatre, and of 
course prepared (in case the Emperor 
should disapprove my plan) to reiterate 
my former request. My discharge at 
length was granted me in the most gra- 
cious terms, and I obtained at the same 
time the rank of Counsellor of the 
College. 



n 9 

I am fully convinced that the Court 
cannot keep up the German theatre, 
even in its present imperfect establish- 
ment* without disbursing: thirty-seven 
"thousand rubles annually** Had it 

4 

been observed to the Emperor at the 
time, that the improvements alone 
would have cost twenty-three thousand 
rubles* I have reason to believe, that 
his answer would have been diHerent 
from what it was; especially as the 
young Empress is a great admirer of the 
German drama:" but the word nothing 
could not well have produced any other 
effect. 

Such are the circumstances of mv 

4 

discharge, respecting which the author 
of a paragraph in the Hamburgh Gazette 
had the goodness to observe, that it 



*I am not uninformed§ that Monsieur Mire, and a 
person of the name of Casazzi, have undertaken the 
business at a much lower Fate, but jinisxQrm&t epusd 



1 20 

was not very clear, whether it was 
asked for or received. At Petersburg 
the matter was clear enough ; but un- 
happily there are men in the world who 
are induced by envy to believe the con- 
trary to what every one knows. 

In speaking of the pension that was 
granted me, the same correspondent ob- 
serves with equal malignity, and with a 
design to render the distinction less 
honourable to me, that I solicited it. 
He knew not that the Emperor Paul 
had secured the salary on his own privy- 
purse; and that pensions of that nature 
are frequently, and even commonly, 
continued after the resignation of the 
receiver; and that without having as- 
sailed the young Monarch with solicita- 
tions and entreaties, the favour • was 
granted me on my mere request. I am 
too proud of this mark of kindness and 
benevolence in the young Emperor, and 



121 



too jealous of the reputation of an un- 
assuming man, not to have placed the 
matter in its true point of view, even 
at the risk of fatiguing the patience of 
my readers. 

On the 29th of April, I left Peters- 
burg with my family, full of gratitude 
to the deceased Monarch, and to the 
reigning Emperor. We passed some 
weeks at Jesse, with M. Koch and his 
excellent family ; from whence, accom- 
panied by their best wishes, w r e pro- 
ceeded to Wolmarshof, the country seat 
of Baron de Lowenstern, who had sent 
us the most cordial invitation * 

My heart palpitated violently as I ap- 
proached this abode of sincerity and 
truth : at length I beheld the accom- 
plishment of the most ardent of my 
wishes : I was on the point of meeting 
a lady again, who, in the most terrible 
moment of my life, had sent me every 



Ml 

succour in her power. With what im- 
patience did I long to press her hand to 
my lips and to my heart ! I was also to 
meet the young man who had shed 
tears on my account, and who had 
strove to soften my afflictions with the 
tenderness of a brother. The first per- 
son- 1 saw on getting out of the carriage 
was IvL de Beyer. What varied emo* 
lions seized me as he approached ! After 
him appeared Madame de Lowenstern. 
I was unable to utter a single word ; my 
tears eloquently interpreted the feelings 
of my heart. I looked round for her 
worthy son, he flew to my embrace;, 
and I pressed him with fraternal affec- 
tion. How sweet is the remembrance 
of past evils in the circle of sympathize 
ing friendship ! 

I here obtained some explanations of 
that part of my history, in which these 
worthy persons were concerned. The 



123 

letters I had written at Stockmannshof 
had been all forwarded by M. de Beyer 
to the Governor of Riga, except that 
intended for Count Cobenzel, which 
could not but have proved prejudicial 
to me. M. de Richter had dispatched 
them without the least scruple to the 
Emperor, who at first was much irri- 
tated at my escape, and replied to the 
Governor, that he must instantly sum- 
mon M. de Beyer to Riga, and severely 
reprimand him for having suffered a 
state-prisoner to write letters in his 
house. This reprimand, which implied 
no small elogium of M. de Beyer's 
heart, was accordingly given, but it may 
be easily imagined how much the well 
known humanity of M. de Richter 
must have tended to soften the severity 
of it. 

I learnt besides, that my Counsellor 
had communicated his instructions to 



124 

M. de Beyer, and that consequently he 
would have incurred great danger if he 
had espoused my cause more warmly 
than he did. M. de Beyer attempted 
to justify the cold and prudent M. Pro- 
stenius, and it is no fault of mine if my 
my own heart invalidated all his argu- 
ments. 

The whole family had considered the 
Counsellor as a civil, kind-hearted man, 
and had placed great confidence in him. 
This mistake was very excusable in peo- 
ple of their excellent disposition ; for 
never had I seen, in any instance what- 
ever, so much cruelty united with so 
much dissimulation. He had waited on 
my wife, on his arrival at Petersburg, 
after having heard of my approaching 
deliverance, to give her joy. He told 
her that we were very intimate friends^ 
and had lived together like two brothers 
during the whole journey. He even 



125 

paid me a visit, when he had heard in 
what a distinguished manner I had 
been treated by the Emperor, and mean- 
ly attempted to insinuate himself into 
my favour. I could not, however, bear 
the sight of him : he at length observed 
this, and discontinued his visits. 

After having spent a few days very 
agreeably at Wolmarshof, we set off for 
Riga, where we were expected by our 
faithful friends. I had not the pleasure 
of finding the worthy Governor there ; 
he was unfortunately ill in the country, 
but I found my kind friend Eckardt, 
and the learned Doctor Stoffregen, to 
whom I expressed all my gratitude. We 
accompanied the latter to his villa, a 
terrestrial paradise, at Graffenheyde, 
and we separated in a few days, bestow- 
ing on each other reciprocal benedictions 
and prayers. 

Among other things, I learnt at Riga, 



that a letter which my wife had written 
to the Duchess of Weimar, had been 
sent to Petersburg by the master of the 
Post-office, and had been read by the 
Emperor ; that his Majesty had imme- 
diately returned it, with orders to have 
it sealed up again, and forwarded to its 
destination. Our friends augured some- 
thing good from this incident j it is in- 
deed certain, that the letter (a copy of 
which I possess) could not have failed to 
make a salutary impression on the kind 
heart of the Monarch. I therefore, per- 
haps, owe my deliverance, in some mea- 
sure, to the very person, to whom of 
ail others, I would most willingly owe 
it — to my own wife. 
. At_Mittau the Governor of Courland 
was no longer to be found ; he had 
heen dismissed from his post. M. Sel- 
len of Polangen, had likewise been dis- 
charged ; I did not see him, but I found 



127 

the Lieutenant who had accompanied 
us to Mittau, and whose name is De 
Bogeslawski. He received me as an old 
friend, and compelled us to breakfast 
with him. On this spot, how did I run 
over the early scene of my misfortunes I 
How beneficent is nature, in causing the 
remembrance of past ills to produce an 
enjoyment equal to, and perhaps greater 
than that of past pleasures ! I enquired 
after the honest Cossack, who had ac- 
companied us on the coach-box : I wish- 
ed fo make him a present, but he was 
not in the way. 

When we felt the carriage drive off— 
when we passed the guard-house — when 
the barrier was let down behind us — 
and when, a little further on, we beheld 
the Prussian eagle ; — why should I blush 
to confess, that I burst into a flood of 
tears, that my wife also wept, and that 
we sunk into each other's arms ? Not 



123 

that we had waited for this moment to 
give full scope to our feelings—No ; the 
name of Alexander is every honest man's 
sufficient guarantee for his personal free- 
dom ; but it was a confused mixture of 
emotions, as powerful an inexplicable, 
that called forth these delicious tears. 
The view of the theatre of my misfor- 
tunes ; the recapitulation of ail the scenes 
through which I had struggled : the 
-agony,, which a year before I had suf- 
fered on the same road ; the contrast of 
sensations; the happy and unforeseen 
change of circumstances ; my gratitude 
to God, who had restored all that was 
dear to me ; the delight at waking from 
my long and frightful dream ;— -all these 
considerations agitated every feeling of 
; riiy heart, and forced the tears into my 
eyes. Thus impressed, I saluted the 
happy dominions of Frederic William 
IIL The moment I set my foot upon his 



129 

frontiers, I considered myself as in my 
native country. 

At Konigsberg I found Count Kutais- 
soff, the favourite and confidential friend 
of the late Emperor. If any one could 
have given me information concerning 
the cause of my arrest, it was certainly ' 
he. I had long known him, but our 
acquaintance was during a period in 
which it would have been improper to 
have asked him any questions relating 
immediately to myself. But what I had 
not ventured to do at Petersburg could 
be done without any scruple here : I 
therefore hinted to him my wishes to 
be acquainted with the Emperor's rea- 
sons for having treated me with so 
much severity ; and he replied, with the 
most unsuspicious frankness, " that his 
Majesty had acted from no particular 
motive, but that I had given him um- 
brage as an author. However," added 



m 

he r " you have seen with what readi* 
ness, and with what pleasure he cor- 
rected his error : he liked you ; he has 
given you proofs of it ; and had he 
lived, you would have received more." 

Peace then to the ashes of a man, 
whose faults may be ascribed, in a great 
measure, to the nature of his edu- 
cation, to the extraordinary events 
that distinguished the- period of his 
reign, and to the characters of the people 
who surrounded him ! a man, who 
might often have been mistaken with- 
regard to the means he employed to do 
good, but whose invariable aim was to 
be good and just ; who scattered innu- 
merable benefits around him, yet saw- 
nothing but noxious plants spring up, 
whose blossoms pleased his eye, while 
their poisonous vapour tarnished and 
destroyed him ! 

I shall conclude with the insertion of 



some French verses, which were circu- 
lated in Petersburg some days after the 
Emperor's death. I am unacquainted 
with the author, but his picture bears the 
stamp of truth.. 

On le connut trop peu, lui ne connut personnc ; 
Actii, toujours presse, bouillant, imperieux, 
Aimable, seduisant, meme sans la couronne, 
Voulantgouverneur seul, tout avoir, tout faire mieux, 
II fit boucoup -d'irigrats — et mourut malheureux ! 



APPENDIX. 

An Examination of a Work entitled " &- 
cret Memoirs of the Court of Russia" 

I HAVE read the " Memoirs of the 
Court of Russia:" the book has 
made much noise in the world; more 
indeed than it merits. It has been, 
and is perhap3 still, believed that the 
author drew his materials from authen- 
tic sources ; it is therefore worth while 
to examine this work in detail. He has 
treated both the great and insignificant 
with such rancour, and attacked the 
honour and the virtue of the monarch 
and the nation with so much audacity, 
that I conceive I shall deserve the thanks 
of the Public by stripping off his mask, 
and openly contradicting him on several 
points^ respecting which I have better 



fnformation than he could ever have 
obtained. 

If, in imitation of himself, I were to 
derive mv authorities from table-talk 

4 

and the gossip of antichambers, it 
would be an easy task to refute every 
page of his book : being, however, 
averse to assume airs of importance, I 
repeat, that I shall only touch upon 
what my own conviction enables me to 
refute. If the Secret Memoirs should ever 
find their way into Russia, there will be 
no want of persons, still better inform- 
ed than myself, to expose the falser- 
hoods which they contain. 

The author pretends, in his preface^ 
to have held heaven knows what im- 
portant post at Court ; and the editor 
adds, that he had lived in the closest in- 
timacy with people of rank and influ- 
ence at Petersburg/ Now, as it is the 
duty of every historian or compiler o£ 



*3* 



memoirs, who makes any pretension to 
public confidence, to shew how he has 
been able to come at the truth of what 
he asserts; let us say a few words con- 
cerning the author himself. 

Monsieur de M * * H the younger, is a 
native of Switzerland % The history 
of the early part of his life is here out 
of the question. He was received at 
the house of General Soltikoff, by 
whose interest he obtained the office 
of inspector of the stables of the Grand 
Duke Alexander, the present Emperor. 
The Grand Duke probably was familiar 
with him ; but I do not see how his 
post could have procured him his iritis 

* It is for the sake of his respectable brother 
that I do not give his name complete. He has, 
however, saved the reader the trouble of guessing 
it, for he has made himself so well known every 
where, that it seems he is not at all solicitous to 
'remain in obscurity. 



*35 

mate cannexions with the principal peopte 
of rank and influence in the empire. 

He had made verses, and in his own 
circle may have been considered as a 
man acquainted with the fashionable 
world ; but he may be assured, that 
there are many great people and men 
of influence at Petersburg, who are to 
this moment ignorant of his existence. 
Let the reader judge from hence, if he 
•could have always spoken the truth. 

But, supposing we grant him this 
point, it is very certain it has not al- 
ways been his intention to speak it. He 
himself, however, has been frank enough 
to confess, that nothing less than the 
most justifiable resentment forces him 
to speak out. What can be exnected 
from a writer, whose resentment speaks 
for him, and who is not ashamed, to 
add, that it is the proper business of in- 
xlignation to reveal what criminal gra- 



!J6 

titude might induce him to conceal. It 
is his indignation alone then, that breaks 
out through the whole book, and which 
is of so violent a nature, that he is 
forced to consider gratitude as criminal 
when it does not allow him to disburden 
himself, of every thing that w r eighs upon 
his heart. What can be expected from 
a writer who has faith in criminal grati- 
tude ? 

And what is it, in fact, that has irri- 
tated him to such a degree ? He has 
been ill treated, I will allow ; and I am 
inclined. to believe that he was innocent. 
Certain suspicions, some unmeaning 
words, something said in favour of the 
French troops, had induced the toa 
hasty Emperor to banish M. de M # * * 
and his brother out of his dominions ; 
but his Majesty didnthis without any 
degradation of their honour : he did not 
seize their fortunes, nor refuse to allow 



*37 

their families to accompany them. They 
had fallen into disgrace, and that was 
all: the Emperor had withdrawn his 
confidence, and would have them no 
.longer in his service ; — nothing more. 
It will be said, that this was enough, 
and that their case was very severe. I 
allow it, but not sufficiently so to jus- 
tify the transformation of gratitude into 
a thing that depends on circumstances. 
Had M. de M * * * been satisfied with 
asserting his innocence in a calm and 
satisfactory manner, every impartial 
reader would have applauded him. But 
this mass of scandalous anecdotes, his 
evident solicitude to collect every thing 
that could render the Russian Court ei- 
ther atrocious or ridiculous, shew 
clearly, that the Eemperor Paul did 
not act imprudently in removing a pe- 
tulant observer, who examined every 
thing that came in his way with a jaun* 



i 3 8 

diced eye. M. de M # # * '$ own book 
is, in my opinion, the best justification 
of the Emperor's conduct towards the 
author. Let him undertake, in the 
boasted French republic, to write the 
scandalous chronicle of the French court 
of the present day^ and I am persuaded 
that he would think himself well off if 
he escaped transportation to Cayenne. 

He says, I have written only what I 
have seen, heard, or experienced myself. 
This is very singular. I find nothing 
throughout the whole book but things 
which were heard vf? and of which I ? 
too, with a thousand others, have heard, 
though in a difFerent manner. If it were 
sufficient merely to give *ar to things, 
to enable a man to write memoirs for 
posterity, the historic muse may erect 
a temple in every antichamber ! If JVL 
de M * t 9:- would have us believe what 
lie has neither seen, nor felt, nor expe* 



*39 

rlenced, but only heard, he ought to 
name his authorities; in default of 
which, he will allow us to place no more 
confidence in an inspe&or of the stables 
of the. Grand Duke, than in any other 
subaltern officer of the Russian Court. 



In the preface, (page 4) he calls the 
Emperor a revengeful tyrant. Paul was 
not in the least addicted to revenge. 
In the first emotions of anger, he might 
have often committed injuries ; but to 
rancour and vengeance Lis heart was a 
stranger. I could name instances of 
persons, by whom, whether right or 
wrong, he conceived himself to be of- 
fended, and whom he punished at one 
moment, and at the next raised to the 
first dignities in the state. It is, how- 
ever, needless to bring forward these 
examples, as they are already gene- 
orally known. Had the Emperor been re- 



i4o 

vengeful, and consequently rancorous. 
(For these passions never operate sepa- 
rately) the annals of history would pro- 
bably have held out one horrid attempt 
the less to posterity. M. de M * * * 
boasts of his courage and frankness^ in ut- 
tering the words revengeful tyrant ; but 
where is the honest man who does not 
consider, that he calls by too soft a 
name the wickedness he allows himself 
to commit ? 

One cannot help smiling at reading 
(page 5) that M. de M * # * feels and 
experiences that he is followed where- 
ever he goes. The Emperor, in fact, 
made no farther mention of him after 
his departure, nor even thought more 
about him. It is still more disgusting 
to hear him soon after impudently as^ 
sert, that he lias exercised great modera- 
tion in drawing up his memoirs. I 
should be glad to know how it were 



141 

^possible to cram a greater quantity of 
horrid matter into the compass of two 
volumes. 

He confesses frankly enough that his 
bad memory has been his only source^ 
as he had committed all his materials to 
the flames. It is indeed requiring a 
little too much of the Teader to expect 
him to confide in the bad memory of an 
inspector of the Grand Duke's stables, 
for an account of all kinds of state and 
family secrets. 

M. de M * * * gives no quarter to the 
poor German authors. He calls them all 
pckihanks^ without supporting the epi-. 
thet by a single case in point. Ah! 
M. de M * # *, were I to publish some 
of your poetry, who would deserve the 
name of pickthank better than your- 
self? 

M. de M * * * endeavours to repre- 
sent every Russian subject as an abject 



142 

slave ; he even pretends that the nation* 
by a kind of apotheosis, has changed 
the name of Catherine to Jecatherine, 
which, according to him signifies Arch- 
Catherine. A curious interpretation truly. 
Jecatherine is merely a name, and as little 
signifies Arehcatherine as agurke (which 
in Livonia is used for gurke, a cucum- 
ber) signifies arch cucumber. 

In page 48, M. de M * * * has the 
assurance to assert that the Emperor is 
the tyrant both of the empire and his fa- 
mily \ and that he proscribes the dearest 
and most laudable feelings of nature. 
A more abominable falsehood than this 
was never uttered, I should fill a whole 
volume, were I to bring forward all the 
domestic incidents in which the Empe- 
ror Paul approved himself to be a tender 
husband and a good father; and I am only 
acquainted with the smaller part of that 
number* I do not pretend that he has 



*43 

not often fallen into violent r though 
short, fits of anger, with his family y 
which have sometimes been attended 
with very serious consequences ; but 
he is not on that account the less sus- 
ceptible of the most tender feelings o£ 
nature. 

It is unusual, for instance., to consult 
the inclinations of a Princess in the dis- 
posal of her hand ; yet I know from the 
best authority, that the Emperor always 
left to his daughters the free choice o£ 
their husbands : in such cases, consult- 
ing the paternal feelings of his heart, 
rather than listening to motives of po- 
litical interest, he entered into no pro- 
mises with regard to an alliance, but on 
the express condition of its receiving 
his daughter's full approbation. I should 
be glad to be informed of many other 
Courts in which a like custom pre- 
vails I 



144 

When the deceased Grand Duchess 
Alexandrina took her leave of him, 
with what inexpressible tenderness did 
he fold her in his arms ? How many- 
tears did he shed upon the occasion ? 
She was seated in her coach, when he 
again came down into the Court, and 
opening the carriage door, bestowed his 
blessing, in a broken voice, upon his 
darling child. Is this the conduct of a 
man who proscribes the common feelings 
of nature? 

I could add many other instances, but 
I do not think, like M. de M***, that it 
is proper to print every thing I have 
been told. I shall, however, bring for- 
ward a case in direct contradiction to 
his senseless assertion, since it affords at 
the same time an example of the love 
and tenderness which the Emperor bore 
his family to the last moment of his 
life 



J 45 

On the nth of March, at five or 
six in the afternoon, a few hours be- 
fore his death, when M. V , an 

Aulic-Counsellor, who had been sent for 
by the Empress on business, was wait- 
ing her Majesty's orders in the anti- 
chamber, he observed, through a half- 
open door, the Emperor go to her. He 
appeared in very good humour, and 
said to her on entering the room, " My 
angel, I have brought you something 
that will give you pleasure." " As 
every favour does," replied the Empress, 
fcC which you confer." The Emperor 
then took a pair of stockings out of his 
pocket, which had been embroidered 
by the noble young ladies belonging to 
the institution, under the immediate 
patronage of her Imperial Majesty. Af- 
ter shewing this attention to his con- 
sort, he turned to his youngest children, 
who were playing about him, took them 
VOL. itu k 



146 ; 

in his arms, danced with them about 
the room, and, in a word, acted in every 
respect as the most affectionate father of 
a family would have done. M. V*** 
was deeply affected at this scene; it re- 
quires no comment, since it is to per- 
sons of feeling hearts alone that I ad- 
dress myself. 

At page 795 M. de M ## * makes a 
violent attack upon the principal nobi- 
lity of the empire, during the last years 
of the reign of Catherine II. He says 
" they were without knowledge, with- 
out views, without elevation of mind, 
and utterly devoid of probity." He 
wall not allow them even that vain ho- 
nour, which, with respect to fidelity, 
stands in the same stead as hypocrisy 
does with regard to virtue. He charges 
them with " being as imperious as ba- 
shaws, as oppressive as tax-gatherers, as 
.dishonest as lackeys, and .as mercenary 



H7 

,as stage-waitingMiiaids;" in a Word,, lie 
ig not ashamed to call them, c *the rabble 
ef the empire" 

Let such a picture (which the most 
virulent passion alone could have bfcen 
capable of sketching, and the most un- 
bridled extravagance have finished! be 
placed beside the portrait of a Repnin, 
a man equally great in the cabinet and 
the field 5 of incorruptible integrity, and 
of the most generous liberality of sen- 
timent: — of a Romanzo, a great general, 
Avho has bequeathed his virtues to his 
children : — of a Bcsborodki* who, though 
a man of pleasure, had the best of in- 
tellects, and was the most indefatigable 
of statesmen: — -of a Wasilew^ the trea- 
surer of the empire, who without flat- 
tery might be compared with the great 
Colbert himself for talents and probity : 
of a SoItikoff\ a Markojf\ &c. and the 
indignant reader would then be tempted 



148 

to bestow on what M. de M** # is pkas- 
ed to to term courage and frankness ^ 
epithets of a far different signification* 
And when he has the audacity to add, 
U that the nobility have pensioned their 
servants, their buffoons, their secreta- 
ries, and even the tutors of their chil- 
dren, out of the public treasure, of 
wfeich they had the management;" the 
assertion is of so dishonourable and so 
calumnious a nature, that the man who 
has committed it at random to paper, 
unsupported by any kind of proof, de- 
serves to be arraigned as a criminal at 
the bar of justice. 

I request the reader further to remark 
how often M. de M**%. under the in- 
fluence of passion, contradicts his own 
assertions. He gives the name of rabble 
to the great people in the reign of Ca- 
therine IL and yet makes it criminal in 
her successor to have dismissed them on 



149 

his accession to the crown: and after 
allowing, that those by whom the Em- 
peror Paul was surrounded, were peo- 
ple of less moral depravity than the 
discarded courtiers, he is nevertheless 
continually turning them into ridicule, 
and calling them upstarts. 

At page 82, he repeats the hacknied 
assertion^ " that Russia cannot boast of 
having any laws, but that it is merely 
governed by ukases or prescripts/' It 
must be confessed that the legislative 
commission established by Catherine,, 
had not done all that might have beer* 
expected from it ; many more improve- 
ments, however, were made in the reign 
of that immortal woman than M. de 
M** # seems to have been aware of* 
Her incomparable Instructions for the go- 
merriment of the Russian empire ; her In- 
structions for the towns ; for the nobility ; 
for the trades, &c. are not mere pre- 



*5o 

scripts, but form altogether a complete 
code of laws. During the space of ten 
years,' I was myself in the habits of 
judging a multitude of suits by these 
laws, and I was seldom driven to the 
necessity of having recourse to a foreign 
code. 

This is not the place to examine whc- 
the plan of the Empress to introduce a 
an uniform code of laws into her vast 
empire, was not rather a pious wish., 
than a measure at ail possible. It would* 
doubtless be a desirable thing to abolish 
that confusion, which cannot fail to re- 
sult from the great number of customs' 
and privileges which are continually at 
variance with each other. The tribunal, 
for instance, where I had the honour to 
preside, was a court of appeal from the 
inferior provincial tribunals, and all the 
litigious causes of Reval, Hapsal, Weis- 
senstein,and Bakischport, were decided. 



i 5 r 

tKere. But X was obliged to judge a 
Reval suit by the laws of Lubec, an 
Hapsal suit by the laws of Sweden, and 
a Baltischport one by those of Russia, 
&c. circumstances which rendered the 
administration of justice extremly com- 
plicated and troublesome. 

M. de M* ## (page 92) carries his 
love of paradox so far as to maintain, 
that the Empress Catherine, the friend 
and the favorite of the muses, did not 
patronise the arts and sciences, but 
merely purchased libraries - and collec- 
tions of pictures from motives of osten- 
tation, and sent medals to German au- 
thors who dedicated their works to her. 
Such silly assertions are not worth re- 
futing; they ought to be treated with a 
smile of contempt. 

It is ridiculous enough to hear, in 
what a self-sufficient manner M. de 
M** # decides on all the literary pro- 



*5 2 

ductions that appeared during the thir- 
ty-two years of the reign of Catherine* 
" Except a few works on Natural His- 
tory/ 3 says he, u no book worthy of 
being known elsewhere, has honoured 
the Russian press/ 5 He was doubtless 
unacquainted with the greater number, 
and knew only the title pages of some 
of the others. Eider ^ for instance, has 
escaped his notice. On the other hand, 
he relates wonderful things of intire 
libraries i that had been discovered among 
the ruins on the banks of the Irtisch. 

M. dteM*** (page no) says, " that 
the Germans at Petersburg are all artU 
%ans, principally talhrs and shoemakers" 
The inspector of the stabks might as 
well have added saddlers^ who likewise 
are chiefly of that country. In this view 
he would not have comprised one half 
of the Germans who inhabit the city, 
the number of which exceeds thirty 



153 

thousand. Almost every merchant, and 
a great number of the people in office are 
Germans. M. de M*** also mistakes 
when he pretends, " that more victuals 
are consumed in the German houses 
than in others, and that the guests are 
overwhelmed with ceremonies and com- 
pliments/ 5 It is true indeed, that the 
plain Germans have no idea of the cou~ 
rage and frankness in which Mr.de IM* # * 
so eminently excels. 

The circumstances which he states 
(page 117) of the colonels being the 
despots of their respective regiments, 
and of every thing relating to the eco- 
nomy of them passing through their 
hands, are not without foundation; 
but he should have added, " that these. 
abuses were reformed on the accession 
of the Emperor Paul to the throne." 

M. de M # * # (page 131) charges 
the author of the Description of Peters- 



burg with unpardonable negligence, in 
having confounded his important per- 
son as a man of letters with that of his 
brother. " Can anyone, after this," 
says he, " depend on descriptions?" And 
why not? Is it of any consequence to 
the reader, to know the author of a few 
trifling verses? If the more interesting 
accounts are exact, he will readily over- 
look matters of such small import. Be- 
sides M. de M* # * ought to be happy 
whenever he is confounded with his 
worthy brother. That unassuming re- 
spectable man lives on his estate near 
Erlangen, and has not been a little a- 
larmed at the publication of the Secret 
Memoirs. Some people, not having 
known him personally, have taken him 
for the author of the book ; but he has 
often explained himself to his friends 
on the subject, in a very earnest and 
serious manner. 



i5S 

At page 132, Mr* de M[*** "unjust- 
ly upbraids the Emperor with having 
left the most useful of his mother's 
public undertakings in an unfinished 
state, and with having erected nothing 
but barracks and exercise-houses. M. 
de M** * anions; these works mentions 
the quays and canals, and forgets that 
the Emperor had entirely banked-up the 
Mo'ika with free-stone. He has his rea- 
sons, perhaps, for not mentioning the 
hospital for the reception of military or- 
phans, wMch owes its very existence to 
that Monarch; and in which upwards 
of eight hundred children of both sexes 
are boarded and instructed, and placed 
in suitable conditions when they have 
attained a certain age. This institution 
is directed by the respectable Colonel 
de Weismarn and his lady, who, has 1 
have several times observed with great 
delight, is beloved by the children as 4 



i 5 6 

mother. The Emperor, frequently vi- 
sited this asvlum ; it was one of his most 
favourite walks. He took the most 
tender interest in its w r elfare ; laid aside 
his crown on entering the mansion, and 
appeared only as the father of the 
children ; and never did he leave the 
spot unaccompanied with the benedic- 
tions of the innocent objects of his care* 
M. de M ## * ouo;ht not to have beea 
silent on matters of this- nature; but 
perhaps his correspondents gave him no 
account of them, having enough to do 
to furnish him with the tattle of -anti- 
chambers. 

If we were unacquainted with the 
reasons which induced M. de M*** to 
spare the memory of Prince Poternkin, 
we should be surprised at the slight 
manner in which he touches upon the 
subject of that famous man. The in- 
sulting contempt he always entertained 



157 

for his fellow- creatures , whom he only- 
considered as the instruments of his own 
grandeur, is but too generally known. 
Never did the Emperor Paul venture to 
go half the lengths in the indulgence of 
his caprices as that favourite had gone. 
Few people can be strangers to the anec- 
dote respecting the honest Moscovite 
merchant, whom he ordered to be taken 
up by the police and sent to Petersburg, 
for having suffered a lady to see his long 
beard. The unfortunate man arrived 
attjhe capital, and Potemkin, having for- 
gotten his beard, suffered him to lan- 
guish six months in confinement. At 
length the satrap deigned to pay some 
attention to this famous beard : the 
merchant was sent back to Moscow, in 
a ruined state of health, and found that 
his wife had died with grief, and that 
his affairs were ruined. The Emperor 
Paul has committed acts of violence 



*5* 

froin mere hastiness of temper, but ne- 
ver to gratify his caprice ; and what- 
ever he did, he always imagined that 
he was doing an act of justice. 

No one, except M/de M***, has felt 
that the death of Potemkin had made 
an immense -void in the empire. The story 
of the Empress having fainted away 
three times successively on hearing the 
news of his death, seems very impro- 
bable : at least there are well informed 
people, who pretend that his power 
having attained to a prodigious height, 
and grown superior to all kind of con- 
trol, had become very troublesome, to 
Catherine, and that after his death she 
acknowledged herself to be a much freer 
. assent than before. 

-M. de Lanskoy, it seems, has found 
singular favour with our author. He 
styles him the lover of the arts, and the 
iriend of talentSo In truth 3 he was the 



W9 

most ignorant man about the Court* 
and the Empress always blushed for him 
•whenever he began to speak, 

M. deM** # (page 164) observes, that 
Paul was more a Russian than his mo- 
ther, and that he always maintained 
that a Count or Prince of the holy 
-Greek empire, was preferable to one of 
the holy Roman empire. It is not my 
business to decide whether the mother 
or the son was in the right; I am, how- 
ever, of opinion, that it becomes an 
Emperor of Russia to confer, with his 
own hands, the dignities with which he 
wishes to see his subjects decorated.. 

At page 157, the author speaks in a 
; contemptuous manner of General Pistor, 
i one of the most worthy Germans that 
ever served in the Russian army. He 
-calls him a Russian .satellite : A little 
farther on, he sneers at the barbarous 
■-names of Kretschetnikojf 'and Cachcwske* 



lib 

** Heavens! what names! 55 says he, 
<c and the men who bear them, are still 
more uncouth !" He forgets, however, 
that the name of his hero Kosciusko is 
not more harmonious. 

At page 173, M. de M # * # speaks of 
a statue that the Duke de Feuillade 
erected at his own expence, to his mas- 
ter Louis XIV. and he adds, " that Po- 
temkin had done nothing for Catherine 
that could be compared with the French- 
man's gallantry. All the actions of that 
favourite were, indeed, tainted with 
hypocrisy and cruelty : when the Em- 
press travelled to the Tauride, Potem- 
kin, supposing she might expect to see, 
as she went along, the towns and 
flourishing villages of which he had so 
often spoke to her, had ordered repre- 
sentations, in painting, of the fronts of 
the houses composing such towns and 
villages, to be erected on each side the 



road. To a cursory observer the effect 
must have been very fine ; and in order 
to enliven the landscape, it was neces- 
sary to summon all the peasants for 
twenty leagues round the country with 
their flocks, and to post them near these 
decorations. As the Empress went 
along, she beheld the meadows covered 
with sheep and horned cattle, attended 
by well clothed shepherds. She was 
struck with the showy painted houses, 
and imagined she saw the towns which 
existed in the calendar,* and which she 
found swarming with inhabitants. This 
gallantry was not in fact so durable as 
that of the Duke de la Feuillade, but it 
was at least more artfully fancied. 

* The Petersburg calendar, in the reign of Ca- 
therine, contained a list of all the cities either exist- 
ing or planned in the Russian empire, with theii 
respective situations and distance from the capital, 

VOL, UL L 



**fc 



162 

The author (page 224) endeavours to 
degrade one of the best institutions of 
the Emperor, or at least to lessen its 
merit : I mean the permission which all 
his subjects had to direct their letters and 
petitions immediately to himself. M. de 
M ## * tells us, there was a kind of 
office upon the palace stair-case, where 
every one might deliver letters, but he 
adds, "that Paul finding, contrary to 
his expectation, more petitions than de- 
nunciations, grew tired of noticing 
them, and that every thing soon fell 
into its former chaos ; that the secreta- 
ries employed to examine the letters be- 
came as heretofore the arbitrators of 
the unfortunate people who had had re- 
course to their master." 

It is my duty to refute this accusa- 
tion. From the moment of the Em- 
peror's accession to the throne, to the 
] i3t day of his life, every one of his 



163 

subjects were allowed to make applica- 
tion to him in writing, and they were 
sure of receiving a categorical answer in 
the course of a few days. The secreta- 
ries were in no respect the arbitrators 
of the petitioner's fate. The man who 
had dared to make a false extract would 
certainly not have escaped punishment : 
the Emperor frequently demanded a 
sight of the original, and ordered it to 
be read to him. An instance of this had 
taken place in my own case, and it was 
nothing more than a mere letter of 
thanks that I had written. The secre- 
taries had always the letters in their pos- 
session, nor could they venture, under 
the inspection of so severe a master, to 
make unfair extracts, being never sure 
that the Emperor might not suddenly 
require a sight of the original, to sa- 
tisfy himself as to the faithfulness of the 
report. 



164 

It is true, that the reporter had con- 
siderable influence, and that the success 
of the petition often depended on the 
manner in which it was represented* 
But was the Monarch to blame for this ? 
It is natural that he should have confi- 
dence in the people he had chofen, and 
he could not employ more efficacious 
means to render them faithful, than by- 
inspecting their proceedings occasionally 
and unawares. The Emperor could not 
possibly have read every petition he re- 
ceived ' f and in support of this affertion, 
I am enabled to relate an anecdote re- 
lative to the early part of the present 
Emperor's reign ; who, as well as his 
father, allows every one to write to him, 
and even to present their letters in per- 
son ; and may the choicest blessings of 
heaven reward him for this indulgence ! 
Whenever he went from the palace to 
the parade, he had to pass through a 



16*5 

triple row of suppliants, who held their 
petitions in their hands. The number 
of petitioners increasing, and the Em- 
peror being unwilling to abolish the pri- 
vilege, he usually sent out his adjutants 
some minutes before him to collect these 
papers. I have been several times pre- 
sent at their return to the anti-chamber; 
they were usually three in number, and 
each of them had a handkerchief filled 
with petitions in one hand, and his hat 
full in the other- " O God!" cried the 
Emperor one day, .with a smile, when. 
lie saw them return thus loaded ; and 
the exclamation was by no means im- 
proper, for there were upwards of three 
hundred letters in the hats and handker- 
chiefs- Every day produced as many ; 
and supposing that the Emperor had de- 
voted two minutes to the perusal of each 
letter, he must have read ten hours a day ! 
Among these I do not include the num- 



1 66 

bers of letters which came by post, and 
which were sent to the Secretary of 
State. The Emperor, thus occupied, 
would have had no time for the most 
urgent concerns of life, much less for 
the great business of the empire* 
Every thing must have given way to 
the caprice of the petitioners, who often 
mkde the most absurd requests. A wo- 
man one dav wrote to inform him she 
had lost a cow, and to beg another in 
its place. 

The practice introduced by the Em- 
peror Paul of inserting the refusals in 
the public Gazette was certainly a very 
harsh measure ; but it might always^ 
have been evaded by personal application 
to the Secretary of State, who had the 
answers ready for the perusal of the re- 
spective petitioners. The Minister was, 
in fact, prevented, by the multiplicity of 
his avocations, from expediting written 



167 

answers to every letter that was received 
at his office. 

. M. deM*** (page 223) tells us, that 
dishonesty is inherent in the Russian 
Government, and connected with the 
national character, which is deficient in 
morals, probity,. and public spirit. Hap- 
pily, while he was penning this horrid 
description, his conscience seems to have 
stung him a little,, and obliged him to 
add the following note, which he pre- 
cedes by an emphatical exclamation. 
" Alas!" says he, " I little thought while 
I was writing these lines, to find the 
same infamous practices triumph in a 
republican Government, and in a rege- 
nerated country." If, therefore, he is 
convinced that neither national cha- 
racter nor want of public spirit are the 
real sources of corruption and rapine in 
populous cities, but that such disorders 
arise merely from luxury and ambition, 



i.68 

why did he not cancel his unjust asser- 
tion ? His book would certainly have 
contained sufficient invective against 
the Russian nation without this charge. 
Page 238, M. de M*** describes, 
simply from report, the prison of the 
unhappy Prince Iwan, at Schlusselburg. 
He calls it a dungeon, the windows of 
which, he says, were stopped up with 
planks, and scarcely afforded a glimpse 
of light. I myself visited this prison in 
the year 17S2, when I accompanied Ge- 
neral Bawr down the canal of Schlussel- 
burg to its outlet in the lake of Ludoga. 
I found it, indeed, gloomy enough, but 
not to the degree M. de MB*** repre- 
sents it ; I saw the chamber in which 
the Prince was confined ; it was lofty 
and spacious, and sufficiently light. The 
iky, however, could not be seen from 
the chamber, on account of the great 
htmht of the walls that inclosed the 



169 

court in which it was situated ; but the 
Commander assured us that the Prince 
had permission to walk out into the 
area. 

I shall pass over several anecdotes 
which M.de M* ## scatters over his hook, 
to shew his own importance and the ex- 
tent of his connexions. At one time, 
it is such a one, at another, this or that 
person, who had patronized and pro- 
vided for him. Supposing all this to be 
true, of wfiat use is the display of so 
much vanity ? what are those people to 
us, in whose favour he condescends to 
act the part of a German pickthank? and 
what concern have we with the flatter- 
ing letters he had written to kept wo- 
men to obtain a few hundred rubles, 
or a paltry place ? The author ought to 
feel, that in relating such trifles, he- 
weakens the impression he would fain 
make on his readers, by the display of his 
grand principles cf liberty. 



1 7° 

With all possible self-love, the writer 
is ever laying hold of opportunities of 
speaking of himself. At page 249, we 
are obliged to hear him recite a pick- 
thank business in verse, in which the 
honour paid to the memory of Catherine 
forms a singular contrast with the hor- 
rid things he relates of her in his Secret 
Memoirs. In these verses he speaks thus 
of that Princess u 

*' The north's fierce eagle cowers on the ground ; 
** Its bright liar beams no more, &c. >> 

And at page 67, in the second volume, 
he calls this very star an old fury. 

At page 265, and a little further on,, 
the reader is allowed to recover himself 
a little from the effects of the multitude 
of caricatures with which he had been 
long pestered. We here find a descrip- 
tion equally beautiful and just of the per- 
son and character of the Empress-mo- 



I 7 I 

ther* But this pleasure is of short du>- 
ration, and as if M. de M*** were ut^ 
terly averse to say a handsome thing of 
any one, he adds, in a note, ■" that it 
must be acknowledged her good qualir 
ties are not a- little obscured by vanity." 

Those who know that this Princess- 
has been the great benefactress of the 
author, must shudder to observe the 
franknefs and courage with which he had 
been able to stifle and suppress his crimu 
nal gratitude. 

At page 271, he judges equally erro- 
neously of the reigning Emperor ; and 
if there were no other proof that the 
author was never in any situation about 
the Grand Duke, which could enable 
him to judge of the. worth of that 
Prince, this alone would be sufficient. 
He thus expresses himself: " Alexander 
is of a happy but passive disposition ; 
he possesses neither resolution nor con- 



r/2 

fidence sufficient to look out for men of 
merit, who are always modest and re- 
served. 

One single day of his reign has been 
sufficient to refute this silly assertion. 
The choice he has made of the upright 
Beklescheffio? Court-advocate ; of Count' 
Panin 9 Prince Kourakin, of Trosehinskij. 
for Ministers ; of Wasilieff'ior Treasurer, 
&c. proves with what a penetrating eye 
the youthful monarch can distinguish 
real merit, and with what laudable ea- 
gerness he exercised his judgment. I 
shall not copy the ridiculous predictions 
of M. de -M***, they do not merit re- 
futation. 

M. de M*** has done Count Nicolas 
SoltikofF the honour to say nothing 
about him. He is satisfied with having, 
named him, and with putting four rows 
of points after his titles. It k probable 
that his sublime genius could not. iff 



I73 

the present instance, intireiy triumph 
-over the sentiments of criminal gratis 
tude. 

M. de M * * # (P a g e 3°S) accuses the 
Emperor of having treated the old regi- 
ment of guards with too much con- 
tempt. " The severest thing/ 5 adds he, 
" this Prince could say to those officers 
with whom he was dissatisfied, was, 
that they were only fit to ser^t; hi the 
^guards" Supposing this anecdote to be 
true, the Emperor was far from wrong. 
The officers of the guards, during the 
Teign of Catherine, were effeminate in 
their manners and their dress ; they 
drove about the streets in whiskeys and 
four, we*e great men at the theatres, 
gamed deeply, and kept opera girls. I 
speak from my own observation. The 
guards at this period were very favour- 
able to the advancement of young men 
<){ family and fortune. Any man wh@ 



i74 

had connections at Court, could procure 
his son to be enrolled in a regiment 
while he was an infant in his cradle; and 
his promotion took place as regularly as 
in real service. My eldest son, though 
a child, was appointed corporal of the 
guards, then fotcrier^ and afterwards en- 
sign, without ever having been at Pe- 
tersburg, or seen the regiment to which 
he belonged. €n this footing he would 
have advanced with four thousand of 
his little comrades, had not Paul, on his 
accession to the throne, suddenly dis- 
missed every officer of the guards who 
was not capable of service. This regu- 
lation gave me some pain at the time, 
yet I could not but feel that it was per- 
fectly just. 

M. de M ## * (page 312,) relates the 
story of the advancement of Count de 
Rostopschin, who was a considerable time 
minister of foreign affairs, and in hieh 



favour at Court. I shall take this op- 
portunity of adding the history of his 
disgrace ; I have it from the best autho- 
rity, and it reflects great honour en the 
Emperor. 

It is well known that Count dePanin, 
a man of great integrity, had fallen a 
sacrifice to the dexterous jealousy of that 
Minister, and that the Emperor had exil- 
ed him to one of his country seats near 
Moscow. Some time afterwards, a gen- 
tleman belonging to the office of foreign 
affairs, whose name I forget, made a 
tour through that neighbourhood, and 
having written a friendly letter to M. 
de Murawieff, of Petersburg, he men- 
tioned among other things that he had 
visited Cincinnati's at his farm. He like- 
wise added the names of some relations 
he had been with, and entered into some 
family particulars of a very harmless 
nature. This letter fell into the hands 



176 

*o'F Count de Rostopschin, who consi- 
dered, or rather affected to consider it, 
as having a suspicious tendency. He 
laid it before the Emperor, and endea- 
voured to persuade his Majesty that 
Count de Panin was the writer, and had 
made use of another name to serve his 
own purposes ; that Cincinnatus meant 
Prince Repnin, and the names of the pre- 
tended relations signified the friends. 
and partizans of that Prince, 

The Emperor had a great opinion of 
the discernment of his minister, and 
sent orders to Count de SoltikofF, the 
Governor of Moscow, to reprimand 
Count de Panin on the subject of this 
ktter. The Count declared he had not 
written at all to Petersburg. The Em- 
peror, blinded by prejudice, took his 
denial for mere obstinacy, and became 
extremely irritated against him. He 
sent the original letter to Moscow, in 



i77 

order to convict the supposed writer of 
falsehood, and at the same time com- 
manded him to remove to another of 
his estates two hundred versts farther 
off. 

During these transactions the reai 
writer of the letter, who happened to be 
still in the neighbourhood of Moscow. 
was informed of the whole business. 
He had the highest esteem for Count 
de Panin, who had formerly been his 
benefactor, and he w r as prompted by ho- 
nour and gratitude to do every thing 
in his power to exculpate him. He was 
much alarmed at the mischief iri which 
he had unconsciously involved hinju 
and he immediately set off for the capi- 
tal and explained the whole affair to 
Count Kutaissoff, referred to his own 
hand-writing, and confessed he meant 
by Cincinnatus, Count de Panin ; that 
he had not called him so to disguise his 

VOL.. III. M 



i 7 S 

true name, but on account of the strik- 
ing similarity which he conceived to 
exist between the character of the Count 
and of that worthy Roman. Report of 
this deposition was instantly made to 
the Emperor, and at the same time an 
account arrived from Moscow, stating 
that the letter was not the hand-writing 
of Count de Panin. His Majesty seemed 
much hurt on the occasion, and ex- 
claimed with noble warmth,: " He is a 
monster, and would make me the in- 
strument of his secret vengeance ! I 
must rid myself of him." Count de 
Rostopschin was accordingly dismissed 
from his service. 

At page 315, the author pours out a 
torrent of abuse and invective against 
Baron -de Nicolai, President of the Aca- 
demy and Counsellor of State, a gentle- 
,man well known in Germany for his 
excellent poetical productions, adored 



by his inferiors as a father, esteemed by 
his friends for "his integrity and huma- 
nity, and respected by all who knew 
him for his talents and genius. He h:.s 
doubtless had the misfortune of being 
blind to the ereat merit of our author, 
or perhaps he may have considered some 
of his verses to have been *a little insipid; 
otherwise the writer of the Memoirs 
would not surely have said, that a man 
so generally respected as M. de Nicolai 
is, had received a few hundred souls 
(peasants belonging to an estate>£o finish 
the corruption of his own, and that he 
•was the tyrant of his village, &c. That 
M. de Nicolai had complained that his 
boors in Finland produced him scarcely 
any revenue, signified neither more nor 
less than if the proprietor of an estate ia 
Germany should lament that it pro- 
duced him but a trifle. A man must 
■be possessed of a very malignant fn 



i8o 

ness indeed to attack the reputation of 
a person of M. de Nicolai's worth, upon 
such vague grounds. But whose repu- 
tation is sacred in the eyes of M. de 
M***? What he likewise hints respect- 
ing the haughty reserve of M. de Nico- 
lai, is equally false ; I never observed 
the least symptom of it. It is possible, 
that he thought it necessary to be on 
his guard with M. de M***, and the 
event has proved that he was in the 
right. 

M. de M*** adds, that the German 
scribblers treated M. de Nicolai as a 
Maecenas. I foresee he will include me 
in the number, but this gives me no 
concern. I shall only add, that I have 
not the happiness to be particularly 
known to M. de Nicolai, and I consider 
that on the present occasion I am doing 
honour to my pen in making it subser- 
vient, without the least personal mo- 



i8i 

lives, to the elogiurn of virtue and ta- 
lents* 

At page 326, the author seems desi- 
rous of persuading his readers that he 
had succeeded the estimable La Harpe. 
He is always solicitous to join his name 
with that of some celebrated man, as 
the wren seats itself on the back of the 
eagle to approach nearer to the sun. 
La Harpe and M***, says he, who were 
.about the young Prince. The expres- 
sion was artfully chosen ; the reader 
may naturally conclude they had filled 
the same post. He afterwards adds, 
that the old tutor of Paul was likelv to 
experience the fate of Seneca arid Burr- 
hus. Of what use can such falsities be ? 
It is ^11 known that old Aepinus is out 
of his mind, and that he receives a con- 
siderable pension. 

M. de M # * # (page 340) says, that the 
Emperor, through a refinement of ven- 



geance, forbad Mad. Huss to accom- 
pany M. dc Markoff in his exile, while 
it is notorious that this lady left the- 
stage, and immediately joined the dis- 
graced minister, with whom she has re* 
mained ever since. 

I now come to two passages which 
oblige me to go back and copy a few 
periods from the author's preface. " I 
siKiil not imitate those writers," says he, 
" who, under pretence of furnishing me- 
moirs and anecdotes of the countries 
through which they have travelled, ran- 
sack the private concerns of individuals, 
and expose family secrets. To asperse the 
characters of the inhabitants of a country isr 
but a bad way of acknowledging the hospi~ 
iality we have received from them. -* 

HereM. deM*** has pronounced sen- 
tence against himself. Not content with 
having slandered, in the most shameful 
manner, the inhabitants of Russia aijd 



§3 



their national character, he exposes fa- 
mily secrets, relates disgraceful anecdotes 
of Count Romanzo and his children 5 
and would have his benefactor, Count 
Soltikoff, send his wife * * *. I am 
ashamed to copy his indecent language. 
What judgment, therefore, shall we 
form of a man who ostentatiously dis- 
plays, in his preface, principles of ho- 
nour and delicacy, and violate m in 
so flagrant a manner in every page of 
his hook. 

» I now ccme to the end of his first vo- 
lume, after having experienced no small 
degree of trouble and disgust, during 
the perusal of it, and I am very averse 
to go on with a task that must cr 
me still more. If I lived in Russia I 
should remain silent, not only to avoid 
all suspicion of being influenced by im- 
proper notions, but because it would be 
absolutely superfluous to refute cflflin- 



184 

nies in a country where they are gene- 
rally known to be such. As I live, how- 
ever, in a distant nation, where I find, 
to my great astonishment, the false- 
hoods and calumnies of M. de M*** 
have met with some belief, I therefore 
consider it as a duty, which the love of 
truth and the feelings of gratitude im- 
pose upon me, to continue my refuta- 
tion. 

I shall say nothing of his ridiculous 
predictions at the beginning of the se- 
cond volume, by which he endeavours 
to excite the Russians to revolt, in imi- 
tation of the French. Time has shewn 
that M. de M***, though a great com- 
piler of anecdotes, is but a sorry politi- 
cian. We see with indignation, what 
pains he has taken to stir up the prin- 
cipal nobility against their lawful Sove* 
reign. Fortunately for Russia, M. de- 
M*#* is not a man whose machina- 



»5 

lions are likely to do mischief ; and the 
great families whose names he has so 
unwarrantably made use of, treat him 
with deserved contempt. 

In a note at page 26, M.de M*** 
says, that in Livonia children are some- 
times taken from the breasts of their 
mothers, to make way for puppies which 
have lost theirs. A shocking accusation! 
I have been long and well acquainted 
with Livonia and Estonia, yet I never 
heard of. any such practices - 7 and bad 
must be the heart of a man, who could 
advance such a charge without proof. 
Let M. deM*f? name the place where 
this has ever happened. He who has 
$eem> heard, experienced, and felt, every 
thing which he has recorded, ought, 
doubtless, to name the monstrous actors 
of such scenes, or the reader will be apt 
to take the story for one of the many 
fables that are crowded into his work. 



1 8.6 



M, de M*** (page 82) declares, « that 
theft is the prevailing vice in Russia. I 
doubt/' adds he, ** if any people upon 
earth are more naturally inclined to pil- 
fer the property of one another than the 
Russians; from the first minister and 
general of an army, down to the lackey, 
or common soldier, all steal, and pilfer, 
and cheat. A stranger, 55 continues he, 
" who travels with a Russian, of what- 
ever rank the latter may be, will learn 
to his cost not to leave any thing on 
his dressing-table or desk/'* However 
atrocious this accusation may be in it- 
self, it becomes still more so on accoufri 

* The moment after I had written this. I read 
the following piece of intelligence in the C/rf du 
Cabinet : " Plunder and robbery are so common in 
France, that many people consider themselres un- 
fortunate, merely for want of opportunities of com- 
mitting such crimes." Shall we form from hence 
a general opinion of the French ? 



m 7 

of the reason which the writer allege? 
for this propensity ► " Why am the 
Russians," &ays he, " greater thieves 
than other half-civilized nations ? It is 
owing to the immorality of the Greek re- 
ligion" This is arrant nonsense! Every 
one knows, that the French were never 
more notoriously guilty of robbery and 
knavery of every kind, than at the very 
time in which they were paying homage 
to the Goddess of Reason, and over- 
throwing every other altar ; conse- 
quently M. dcs M*** must maintain r 
according to his way of arguing, that 
such enormities were owing to the im- 
morality of reason He endeavours to 
support his assertion by the examples 
of several nations subject to the Russian 
empire,- which are not of the Greek 
communion. He is, however, much 
mistaken ; the Livonians and Estonians, 
whom he names among others, are as 



m 

much addicted to theft and drunkenness 
as the Russians ; and the Tocheranists 
and Tunguoes, among whom I myself 
have been, have by no means a better 
reputation. 

In general M. de M # ** suffers him- 
self to be drawn into the strangest para- 
doxes and most palpable contradictions. 
In support of this charge I shall mention 
the singular motive to which he ascribes 
the source of Russian hospitality.-— 
46 Their possessions/ 5 says he, "are so 
insecure, that they live, as it were, but 
from day to day, and therefore willing- 
ly dispense their precarious pittances-'/ 
Never since Russia has been a country 
have such motives of hospitality pre- 
vailed. To this I may add, the disdain- 
ful and ludicrous manner in which he 
speaks of the Russian soldiers : " they 
are brave/' says he, " out of cowardice." 
One would imagine M. de M #t * had 



189 

belonged to M. Schieget's school, so ri- 
diculous is his extravagance, and so ex- 
travagant his ridicule. 

At page 113, it is the Russan ladies' 
turn to be ill treated, in order that nei- 
ther sex nor condition may find any 
quarter with him. M. de M*** names 
three or four husbands, who, according 
to the family anecdotes he has heard, 
are ruled by their wives, and he con- 
cludes from thence, that petticoat-go- 
vernment prevails all over the empire. 
A man, who on every occasion names 
the French as models of perfection, 
should refrain from touching upon that 
point, as there is no country in Europe 
in which females have had, and still 
have, so much influence as in France. 
His anecdotes besides are not authentic. 
Where he asserts, that Count Puschkin, 
who commanded in Finland, dared not 
make a movement without having dis- 



190 

patched a courier to his lady for advice," 
I should be inclined to consider it as 
mere pleasantry, if he did not support 
b it by the most serious assertions* It is 
likewise not true, that Madame de Mer- 
lin commanded the regiment of Tobolsk 
at Narva, as no Colonel of that name 
had ever been at the head of it. It had 
been for some time commanded by a 
Russian of the name of Merlin : the 
■officers were chiefly Germans and 
French, and I never knew any of them 
mean enough to make their reports to 
Madame Merlin at her toilet. 
I At page 1 2 1 , he observes, " I am not 
the first who has remarked, that in 
Russia the women are in general more 
barbarous and wicked than the men, in 
as much as they are still more ignorant 
and superstitious than they. They sel- 
dom travel, learn scarcely any thing, 
and never use their needle. They rarely 



m 

ever read, and 'are still seldomer etn- 
ployed in domestic concerns." 

I know not whether M. de M*** has 
seen more good company in Russia than 
I have ; but I can with great truth assert, 
I have every where found just the con- 
trary of what he is pleased to advance. 
The ladies of Petersburg are not indeed 
free from the failings which are in ge- 
neral ascribed to those of all great cities, 
but they possess virtues for which we 
may look in vain in many other capi- 
tals. 

The horrid things M. de M* # * re- 
lates of Princess K— ky, prove nothing. 
Let the author read Hem's Annals of the 
Government of Prussia, and he will find 
the story of a woman still more execra- 
ble, who tortured her own daughter to 
death : it would, however, be silly to 
conclude from thence, that the Prussian 
-women are cruel. It is besides remark- 



able enough, that M. de M*** should 
conceal the name of this fury, and treat 
her in other respects with such apparent 
favour. Throughout his book he does 
not scruple to name at full length 
whatever worthy or distinguished per- 
son he wishes to defame, and this abo- 
minable woman is spared. His sympa- 
thy perhaps suggested this indulgence. 
He is also equally kind to another lady 
of the Court, who had shut up her hair- 
dresser for three years together in a 
dark cage. Why does not the author, 
who names every one else, tell 'the world 
who this monster is? Why has she 
escaped his indignation any more than 
the worthy Baron de Nicolai, and a 
hundred others, who never shut up 
people in cages ? 

I beo; leave to doubt the existence of 
the horrible Club Physique \ said to have 
htzvi discovered at Moscow* The re- 



m 

port indeed reached me, as it did M. de 
M # *,but I have no better proofs of the 
truth of it than he has. Besides, if such 
club did exist, it is not more imperious 
to the reputation of the Russian women, 
than the associations of the same kind, 
which formerly administered their poi- 
son in Paris, and perhaps still do, are to 
the French woman in general. 

At page 135, M. de M** # says, " it 
is not in Russia we must look for women 
like the Julia of Rousseau, as the laud 
of slavery is not the scene of the tender 
and elevated passions. Yet he discovers 
in that very country much sensibility, 
unci much interesting melancholy.** — 
What contradictions! 

At page 136, he says, " the Russian 
women rarely possess any of the domestic 
"virtues. Those virtues are indeed un- 
common in great cities. If M. de M**^ 
had seen more of Russia than what he 

VOL. III. N 



194 

could have seen at Petersburg, he would 
perhaps have held a different language, 
I say perhaps, for it is probable he would 
have surveyed every object with a jaun- 
diced eye. 

While the author treats the Russian 
ladies with such severity, he reserves all 
his panygericfor the class of preceptors, 
who, according to his account, have 
eminently contributed to civilize the 
country. I recollect to have heard that 
M. de -M** # began his career in that 
line, and this accounts for his partiality. 
The Germans, as one might have fore- 
seen, are made to serve as shades to the 
picture, and he takes care .to ridicule 
their pedagogical erudition. 

One of the most flagrant falsities in 
his book, is the assertion he has made* 
u that there are no public schools in the 
provinces of Livonia, Estonia, and Cour- 
iand/' The academy of nobles at Re- 



*95 

val, the excellent public seminary or thar 
town, the academy of Ris;a, and manv 
other establishments of this kind in the 
same place, are so generally and so ad- 
vantageously known, that we cannot 
tax the writer with ignorance, but must 
ascribe his assertions to more odious 
motives. The schools of these pro- 
vinces are, in some respects, preferable 
to those in Germany; and it is well 
known, that the young Livonians, Es- 
tonians and Courlanders, who finish 
their education at German universities, 
are generally remarkable for elegant 
erudition. 

At page 211, the author relates his 
own history* and with singular modes- 
ty he declares, that he rendered himself 
dear to his friends by the gentleness of 
his manners, and gained their esteem 
by his wit and good sense. He quotes, 
with much complacency, a kind of apo* 



196 

logy, which appeared in the name of his 
relations and friends in M. d'Archen- 
holtz's Minerva, and which censured 
the< too hasty conduct of the Emperor 
towards him. Of this piece he gives a 
literal translation in his memoirs. I am 
sorry, however, to be forced to con- 
vince him of his error; the author of 
this apology is no other person than 
myself. Among all his boasted rela- 
tions not a soul stood forward in his 
behalf. I thought to have done him 
some service by publishing the paper. 
M. d'Archenholtz himself can confirm 
this fact, to whom I sent at the same 
time another piece, entitled, On the Ad- 
ministration of Justice in Russia, in the 
German Provinces, but without affixing 
any name. At that period I believed 
M. de M*** to have been entirely in- 
nocent. I should have been far from 
espousing his cause, had I known what 



x 97 

he has since given us to understand, 
(page 233) that he was concerned in 
certain political plans : I conceived him 
to be innocent of the charge, as his in- 
terest and influence were very low, 
and the pretended Bhiladehhic Society 
signified nothing at all. His pertness, 
however, shews that the Emperor Paul 
acted wisely in sending him out of his 
dominions. It is not true, that the 
Emperor sequestrated the fortune of 
the two Madames de M* **. The elder 
brother conveyed his fortune out of the 
country, and if the younger did not 
do so also, it was because he had a law- 
suit at Petersburg, which enabled his 
adversary to claim and to obtain se- 
curity. 

At the close of these remarks I shall 
insert one of the most offensive passages 
in the memoirs relative to the slavery 
of the peasants, and to which I shall 



19S 

freely add some observations of my 
own. Heaven be praised ! the moment 
is now arrived in which it is not dan- 
gerous to speak, and in which likewise, 
a hiiit properly applied, may be attend- 
ed with very salutary effects* 

" The lower ranks of people in Rus- 
sia," says M. de M***, " are averse 
to industry, because they never labour 
for themselves, and have in fact no 
idea of property. They are without 
country, laws, religion, morality, or 
honour ; addicted to theft, to rapine, 
to knavery ; and, on the other hand, 
they are hospitable, serviceable, lively, 
trusty, and courageous." (What con- 
tradictions ! what incompatible contra- 
dictions !) "In order that a few thousand 
men should have wheaten bread, thirty 
millions of slaves must eat grass and 
gnaw the bark of trees, like beavers, 
which animals, in point of ^intelligence 



*99 

are much their superiors. Should these 
wretched people have laid up a pittance, 
their masters take it from them, and 
render their captivity still more abject. 
Men with grey heads and patriarchal 
beards, prostrate themselves on the 
ground, and suffer themselves to be 
flogged 'like children.* There are some 
masters who have even forced the son to 
scourge his own father. If the peasant 
is taken for a soldier, his lord has a right 
to give his wife to another ; and if he 
has any children, they are so disposed 
of that he is certain never to see them 
again ." 

It would be superfluous to refute all 
these horrid assertions. Every atrocity 
which might perhaps have been com- 
mitted one single time, is carefully col- 
lected byM.de M* ## ,and transformed 
into a national custom or a fundamental 
law. Exaggerations only tend to make 



•2C.O 

bad worse, and counteract the good 
which might result from cool and im- 
partial discussion. 

For my own part, I have always found 
in my different journies through Russia, 
that the peasants are laborious and ac- 
tive, that they love their country, have 
distinct notions of right and wrong, are 
in general in easy circumstances, and 
that their habitations are clean and neat, 
their disposition gay, and that content- 
ment is marked upon their countenances. 
They are not unacquainted with the na- 
ture of property and possessions ; they 
are sensible that when they have saved a 
little sum, they can offer it to their mas- 
ter, and thereby obtain his leave to exer- 
cise their industry from the extremities 
of the empire to the metropolis. They 
know, and they have seen, that a hun- 
dred thousand of their comrades have 
obtained these benefits, and they them- 



?0I 

selves aspire to the same advantages, 
Their principal traffic consists in fish, 
wood, and vegetables, and their labour 
is employed in brick-making, tiling, ma- 
sonry, carpenters' work, &c. In a word, 
the gloomy picture M. de.M**-f draws 
is, at most, applicable to the peasantry 
of Livonia and Estonia, and not at all to 
those of the empire at large. 

I shall not deny, that the author is in 
a great degree right respecting these two 
provinces. I shall confine my remarks 
to Estonia, being better acquainted with 
it than with Livonia. There, I must 
confess, the peasant has neither property 
nor the prospect of possessing any. He 
is a slave in every sense of the word, and 
a negro in Jamaica has no cause to envy 
his lot. 

Far be it from me to insinuate that all 
the nobles of Estonia are tvrants : there 
are many among them who respect the 
laws of humanity, and the following, I 



102 

iiave the pleasure to observe, from my 
own knowledge, come under that de- 
scription : Meff. de Toll of Elz, d 'Essen of 
Erras, Wilkinson of Chudleigh, d'Ungern- 
St ember g of Linden, de Schilling of Or- 
sena, de Krusentern of Jerlap, de May- 
endorf of Sallentack, de Rosen of Rac* 
kamois, de Rebinder of Kurtena, de Klu- 
gen of Schwarzen, de Klugen of Loden- 
see, de Rennekampf of Koch, . &c. &c. I 
could considerably augment the list, but 
k would be useless while a part only of 
the rest are unlike them. A peasant may 
have the good fortune to live twenty or 
thirty years under a kind. master ; twelve 
months after, perhaps, the estate is soldi 
The new landlord, eager to make the 
most of his purchase, may remove whole 
villages into the marshes, and take pos- 
session himself of the cultivated ground. 
He will probably make contracts with 
Government for brandy, and by that 
means ruin all his peasants. He may 



20J. 

likewise grub up new land, build houses ;• 
in a word, destroy in the space of two 
or three years the prosperity and hap- 
piness that had been the growth of 
twenty. 

I call upon the whole province to re- 
fute me, if they are able. What I am 
asserting is unfortunately too true ; I 
have seen it. I have been a sad witness 
to such practices for the space of fifteen 
years. But notwithstanding this, I am 
far from exclaiming, like M. de M**% 
that the condition of the peasantry can 
never be bettered, except by tedious and 
painful measures. I am of a different 
opinion : I agree with him, that such 
reform must be gradually brought about. 
The best, and indeed the majority of the 
Russian nobility have made overtures in 
several diets, tending to such purpose, 
which were equally wise and humane y 
ind the time, I trust, is not far distant,* 



204 

in which the complaints of the peasants 
will be heard and their wrongs re- 
dressed* 

I shall venture to propose four easy 
methods, which., without doing any real 
injury to either party, would secure a 
kind of property to the bondman, and 
restrain the despotism of his lord ; and 
I must at the same time declare, that 
more than what I have to offer could 
not with safety be done for the peasant 
in the present order of things. 

First. No peasant should be transport- 
ed from one habitation to another. 

At present, as I have already observ- 
ed, the barbarous custom of removing 
the boor from the spot which he and 
his ancestors had cultivated, unhappily 
prevails. He has occupied a house, and 
had a little garden, perhaps, which he 
considered as his own property, On a 
sudden he receives an order to demolish 



205 

liis house, abandon his cultured ground, 
and to remove with his family into a 
forest, or perhaps into the middle of a 
-moor, to grub up new land, which the 
moment it becomes productive is again 
taken from him. In the mean while, 
his Lord sows and reaps the field which 
the poor peasant had been compelled to 
quit. 

Hence the labourer being never cer- 
tain of enjoying the fruits of his toil, is 
generally idle, and provides only from 
day to day. The most flourishing vil- 
lages that have been transplanted in this 
manner, have, in a very short space of 
time, exhibited the most deplorable pic- 
tures of misery. 

The Estonian nobles will reply to this, 
that a good landlord will make no such 
changes. I allow this, yet must add, 
that he ought not to have it in his power 
to make than. But it will be said, that 



2o6 

4 good master will not make a bad use 
of that right ; yet it may be still observ- 
ed that he cannot answer for his heirs 
and successors, and that there is no rea- 
son why a duty, which every honest 
man considers as a law, fliould not in 
fact become one. 

Secondly, Let the soccage - labour, 
which hitherto has depended on the ar- 
bitrary will of the landlord, be in future 
regulated by fixed rules. 

There is indeed a book in every lord- 
ship, in which the sum total of the soc- 
cage- work is inserted; but this labour is 
doubled during seed-time and manuring, 
and also during harvest, which, in other 
words, is during the whole summer ; 
for a landlord who prefers his own in- 
terest, knows how to regulate the 
above-mentioned periods, so that scarce- 
ly any interval appears. The landlord 
has likewise another expedient at com* 



mand, which enables him to elude the 
written ordinances. He has the right 
of imposing certain days of labour, in-* 
dependent of the soccage-days, on which 
the peasant, with his whole family male 
■and female, must assist him. The pea- 
sant too is obliged to repair in person 
at every call of his Lord, to build for 
him, carry his produce to market, distil 
brandy, and, in short, to perform offices 
not at all comprized under the name of 
agriculture. The number of these ex- 
tra-days is quite unlimited, and the pea- 
sant's own labour in the mean while is 
interrupted, his field remains untiiled, 
his affairs are neglected, and it often 
happens that the snow covers his little 
crop before he is able to get it into his 
•barn. In fine, the book contains no 
certain rules for soecage-work of any 
kind, as every new possessor is not 
obliged to abide by the stipulations sane- 



2o8 

tloned by his predecessor : he makes 
new regulations, which he forms agree- 
ably to his own will. 

Thirdly, There should be no public- 
houses in the villages. 

All the Estonian nobles complain of 
the drunkenness of the peasantry, and 
of their total want of morals. They 
universally agree that the principal cause 
of this evil must be ascribed to the pub- 
lic-houses, and that the villages in which 
there are none, are remarkable for the 
good order and easy circumstances of 
the inhabitants. Yet in spite of this 
conviction, the little profits they gain 
by the establishment of such houses, 
prevent them from abolishing so mani- 
fest an abuse. They have public-houses 
by the hundred along the high roads, 
yet they cannot come to a resolution to 
give up those in the by-villages, though 
they would eventually be gainers. 



209 

The inconvenience of public-houses 
in villages has been so generally acknow- 
ledged, that at a late Diet a motion was 
made to abolish them ; but the result 
of the discussion was, that it was found 
the article, of brandy must be raised a 
few copecks a gallon, in order to indem- 
nify the distillers for its diminished con- 
sumption — a remedy which was thought 
worse than the evil itself ! 

Fourthly, The landlords should not 
be allowed to make more brandy than 
they can distil from rye of their own 
growth. 

The speculations which are made in 
spirituous liquors, independently of the 
bad consequences which fall on the pea- 
sant, often ruin his Lord. He com- 
monly makes a contract with Govern- 
ment for six years, in which he under- 
takes to furnish brandy at a stipulated 
price, which, at the time the business 

vol, in. o 



begins, seems to promise much gaift. 
Should a year of scarcity intervene, the 
markets rise, and he is obliged to buy 
grain at any rate ; for the moment he 
fails in his engagements, the Crown lays 
his estates under sequestration, and pur- 
chases brandy at his cost, to supply the 
necessary consumption. Thus is the land- 
holder liable to sink in one single year 
the gains of the other five ; nor does it 
always happen that his profits are suffi- 
cient to make his losses good. I know 
not a single noble who has grown rich, 
but many who have been ruined, by 
such speculations. 

The nobles of Estonia will observe in 
reply, that they should have no manure 
for their grounds unless they fattened 
oxen, and that they could not fatten 
oxen without the assistance of their dis- 
tilleries. Let them be allowed then to 
distil, provided their own crops supply 



Iti 

the corn ; but let them give more atten- 
tion to the breed of sheep, and less to 
that of horned cattle, and they will 
never be in want of manure. They 
may still reply, that the cattle sent lean 
from Petersburg to be fattened, pro- 
duced them ready money (twenty ru- 
bles and upwards a-head) whereas in the 
other case, they would be incumbered 
with the milk of their flocks. It ap- 
pears to me, that if they were to make 
butter and cheese, after the example of 
the Dutch, the Swedes, theHolsteiners, 
&c. they might find a quick sale at 
Petersburg, where the inhabitants are 
chiefly supplied from Holstein. 

A second objection which these no* 
bles may make is, that the landholders 
at a great distance from Petersburg, 
being inconveniently situated for bran- 
dy-contracts, would not know what to 
do with their grain if they did not sell 



212 



it to such as lived nearer the metropo- 
lis, who had contracts, and whose 
estates did not produce grain sufficient 
to fulfil them. Were they not to dis- 
pose of their corn in this manner, the 
markets, they will tell us, would be 
overstocked and agriculture in general 
much injured. This objection, how- 
ever, is more specious than solid ; for 
where grain is scarce, it bears a high 
price, and where it is had in plenty, 
exportation is always allowed, and Swe- 
den, England, Germany, and other 
countries, are eager enough to pur- 
' chase it. 

These hints contain all that is neces- 
sary to be said on the subject, and I am 
fully convinced, that if the nobles of 
Estonia would agree among themselves 
to adopt the measures I have recom- 
mended, they would soon feel the salu- 
tary effects of them. Two hundred 



2i3 

thousand slaves would obtain a species 
of property, and transfer it to their 
children after them. They would grow 
active and laborious ; moral sentiments 
would begin to influence their minds as 
soon as they should feel themselves no 
longer the victims to a more arbitrary 
despotism than that which the Emperor 
himself chuses to exert. They would 
no longer perish for want, were their 
soccage-labour properly regulated, as 
they would then have sufficient leisure 
for the tillage of their own fields. They 
would learn to love their lords, and 
their lords would Jiave confidence in 
them ; and at length be no longer con- 
sidered by all Europe, as a class of petty 
tyrants and oppressors. After ten or 
twenty years adoption of such measures, 
they may venture to proceed further in 
favour of their boors, and at last raise 
them to a degree of moral improvement 



2/4 

which would not only repay their care 
in an interested point of view, but gra- 
tify the noblest feeling the mind is ca- 
pable of enjoying ; a consciousness of 
having fulfilled the sacred duties of hu- 
manity, and of deserving the multiplied 
benedictions that, will fall upon theitf 
head ! 

The Estonian nobility are far from 
being insensible to such elevated kind 
of recompense : they have hitherto 
merely wanted resolution to adopt what 
they felt it their duty to do ; but the 
reign of Alexander will act as a power- 
ful stimulus to such benevolent propen* 
sities, and much happiness may be yet 
in store for their peasantry ! 

I cannot better close my work than 
with the extract of a letter which the 
present Emperor lately wrote to a no- 
bleman who had solicited the hereditary 
possession of an estate. 



" The Russian peasants are in generSt 
j? no better than slaves, and I need not 
" enlarge upon the degradation and 
4C wretchedness of such a condition. I 
u have made a vow not to augment the 
" number of them, and have therefore 
46 adopted the resolution of never trans- 
cc ferring them away as property to any 
u man. The estate shall be granted to 
44 you and your heirs at a long lease and 
44 quit-rent, which will prove equally 
44 advantageous to you ; and the only 
" difference will be, that the peasants 
" cannot be sold or alienated like brute 
46 beasts. Such are my reasons, and I 
44 am persuaded they will meet with 
44 your approbation." 



Glory and honour to this humane 
and compassionate Monarch! He will 
want neither brass nor marble to perpe- 



2l6 

JlPtiate his memory! The sentiments 
which the above short extract contains, 
will secure immortality to his name in 
the bosom of every worthy man ! 



FINIS. 



CON- 



CONTENTS. 



VOL, I. 

Introduction— Letter of the Ruf 

Jian Envoy to the Author — Journey from 
Weimar to Berlin — Advice of the Ruffian 
Envoy — Laft advice of an old man at 
Zanow, a town in Pomerania — Arrival on 
the frontiers of Ruffia — Art eft — Depar- 
ture for Mutate under the efcort of an 
Officer and a Coffack — Account of the Pa- 
pers feized — Arrival at Mittau — Incidents 
in the Governor of Courland's houfe — Por- 
trait of Aulic Counsellor Sch/fchekatichin — 
Order to depart for Peterjburg, and pre- 
parations — Portrait of Alexander Schul- 
kinSy courier of the fenate — Cruel fepara- 



218 CONTENTS. 

lion of the Author from his. wife and chil- 
dren — Difcovery that Siberia is the objeff 
of his journey — Reflation to maize his ef- 
cape, and preparations for the fame — His 
efcape in the night — Retreat in the forefls 
of Livonia- — Hopes of finding an afylum at 
Stochnannshf — Incidents in that caftle — 
M. Proflenius, his conduct and character — 
Second arreft — Generofity of Madame de 
Lowenflern and family — Departure from. 
Stockmannshof — Meafures of precaution 
taken with regard to the Author — Remark- 
able hofpitaUty of M. de Korf— Confla- 
tions of the Courfellor and Courier — Hopes 
—Pecuniary extortions — HofpitaUty of the 
Ruffian peafantry — Meafures of prudence 
taken againft the defpair of exiles — Polozk 
— Report of the Counfellor Smolenfk — Ba?*~ 

harous procedure Mofcow Shameful 

fraud — Intrepidity, the only virtue of the 
Counfellor— Danger of perifliing in the Sura 
mar Waftlfkoe — Companion in mis for time 



CONTENTS. 2t\§< 

—A man of one hundred and thirty years 
of age — General Mertens — Cafan — Hojpi- 
tality the Author finds there — Collection of 
materials to compofe a memorial to the Em- 
peror — Young Tartar woman — Lafi hopes 
cruelly fruflr cited — Journey through the fo- 
refls of Perm — Perm — A form — Siberian 

pea [ants Eka terinabourg — Difcovery of 

fecret writings Frontiers of Tobolfk — 

The poor old lunatic — Arrival at Tobolfk 
— Firfl interview with the Governor— 
Lodgings at Tobolfk — The Author deli- 
vered over to a police officer — M. de Ki- 

niakoff- — Baron Sommaruga Admirable 

conduEi of his lady Count Soltikoff — 

Becker the merchant— Phenomenon — Conn- 
fellor Paterfon — Subflance of a memorial to 
the Emperor — Generoftty of mind of the 
Governor — Permiffion to take afervant — - 
The Italian Rufs or RoJJi. 



220 CONTENTS* 



VOL. II. 



Liberty fuddenly circumfcribed — CompaJ- 
fion of the tradefmen of Toboljk — Defcrip- 
tion of different clajfes of exiles and their 
treatment — Fate of Lieutenant -Colonel de 
Rilfan — The Author s way of living at 
Toboljk — Unpleafant Jituation of the Go- 
vernor — Dejcription of Toboljk — The Jijli- 
market — The playhouje — The cajino — Pro - 
duce of the foil — Order to quit Toboljk — 
The Author Jells his carriage — AJhameful 
advantage taken— Preparations for a jour- 
ney — The High PrieJleJs oj the Sun — Jour- 
ney to Kurgan — Defcription of that town — 
The reception which the Jirjl magijlrate 
gave the Author — Story and portrait of 
M. de Gravi — Iwan Sokoloff the Pole — 
Firjt lodgings — Portraits of fame of the 
principal inhabitants of the town — The 
Jlory of the Pole — New lodgings, with a 



CONTENTS. . 221 

defcription of them — Price of prcvijions — \ 
Frugal table— The way of living andfuper- 
jlition of the Author — The neighbouring 
Kir gifts— The chafe— Walks on the banks of 
the Tobol — Women and girls of Kurgan — - 
Seneca — ProjeEl of an efcape — Defcription 
of a feftival — The Author isfet at liberty 
— Kind interejl ttiken by the inhabitants of 
Kurgan in his welfare — Religious feftival 
— Sokolgjf takes leave of him- — Departure 
from Kurgan — Prince Simbi?ftki — An idiot 
that went on all fours — Scene in a Tartar 
village — Arrival at Toboljk — Generoftty 
of the Emperor Paul L — Carpow the 

courier—- lioguery of Rojft Departure 

from Toboljk — The frontiers of Siberia — 
The Author s impatience — The indolence 
of his courier — Wajftli Sukin — The baniftied 
merchant— Danger at Kungar — Exiles and 
Emigrants — Cafan — Refidence in that city 
—Highway robbers — Precautions tofecure 
the mail — Nifchnei JSovogorod — Hojpita- 



223 CONTENTS. 

lity — Scheme to rob the Author— Mo/cow 
——Francis Court ener the bookfeller—Ka- 

ramjtn, a man of letters Wifchnei — - 

Wolotfchok Arrival at Petersburg 

Reception — Firjl flight — The Author hears 
of his family — The hiftory of what had hap- 
pened to Madame de Kotzebue — Condudl 
of the Governor of Courland-*~The%vorthy 
innholder Rader — —General d'Ejfen--— 
JVdchteryCounfellor of the regency— Weit- 
hrecht ihe\fecretary — Riga — Governor de 
Richter— Count Sievers — Diftrejfmg quef- 
tions of the children — Madame de Kotzebms 
departure for Friedenthal — M. Koch and 
Ms family — Reception of a letter, and its 
€vil confequences — M. de Knorring a?id 
his lady — Catherine Tengman— Good news 
— Count de Pahlens letter — Attentmis of 
theEmferor — The inhabitants of Reval—~ 
Journey to Peter/burg — Noble and delicate 
attentions on the part of Graumann the 
mierchant- — »Ajfe£ling fcen&~»— Count de 



CONTENTS. 223 

Tahlen — The Emperor gives the Author 
an efiate in Livonia — Letter from the 
privy -counfelhr Brifkorn*—The Author is 
appointed manager of the German coiirt 
theatre — His papers are refiored- — Nobh 
affiion of an unknown per/on — Guftavm 
Vafa — Caufes of the Author s enlargement 
— Severe cenfure of dramatic pieces — The 
French theatre —Madame Chevalier— Me-> 
lancholy pi£lure — Singular idea of the Em~ 
peror—Firji interviezv of the Author with 
him> and the Emperor s great affability — * 
Mifanthropy and Repentance afled at the 
Hermitage — Haydn s Creation tranflated 
into French — Circle of friends — The ma* 
uagement of the theatre rendered lefs bur- 
den/owe to the Author. 



224 CONTENTS. 

VOL. iit 

The Emperor employs the Author to write. 
u defcription of the palace of Michailoff— 
Laft interview with the Emperor — Alex- 
ander afcends the throne — His clemency — 
His firji edi£is — Affeding hijlory of a Co- 
lonel of the Coffacks — Round hats — Exiles 
recalled from Siberia — Enlargement of So- 
koloff- — History of the unfortunate farifli 

minifter S*** Monfieur and Madame 

Chevalier — Madame Valville — The An* 

thor folicils his resignation Departure 

from Peterjburg- — -Jure — Wolmanshof — 

Riga — -Pol an gen Konigsherq — -Review 

of ' M. M***'s fecret memoirs of the Court 
of RuJJia — Of the Author and his book — 
Pretended rancour of Paul L — Jekathe- 
rine — The Emperor calumniated as a fa- 
ther and hujhand — The great people of 
the empire — The laws of Rujfia—A Pa- 

6G9 V 



€GNTEttfS~. 225 






radox-~-The Emprefs Catherine did not 
protect the fciences — Germans at Peters- 
burg — Colonels of Rujfuin regiments — Va- 
nity of the author of the memoirs — Falfi 
charges againjt Paul Military orphan 
houfe — Prince Potemkin—*Lanfkoy Ruf- 
fian princes — General Pi/lor — New gaU 
lantry of Pote??ikin—The Emperor Paul L 
received and anfwered all letters — Theim- 
poffibility of reading them all himfelf — The 
Ruffians in office calumniated*— The prifon 
of prince Iwan at Schluffelbourg — Vanity 
and quackery of M. dt M***—Por traits 
of the reigning Emperor and Emprefs — 
Count Nicolas Soltikqff-—The regiments of 

guards-*~Baron Nicolai Refinement of 

vengeance imputed to Paul — Comparifons 
of families— Seditious pra&ices of M. de 
M***—*Calumnious anecdotes relative to 
Livonia — -Of the pronenefs of the Ruffians 
to theft — Their hofptality and courage af- 
perfed by M. de M***— Ruffian women 

VOL. Ill* p 



226 CONTENTS. 

— -Tutors — Falfe qffertions that there are 
no fchools in Livonia, Eftonia, and Cour- 
land — Causes of the author of the memoirs 
hanijkment — Slavery of the Ruffian pea- 
jarits-^Philanthropc views and propofak 
for bettering their condition— Humane dif- 
pofition and declarations of J he reigning 
■Empewr. 



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